Plastic nails

[steve sparhawk]

Somewhere I read about plastic/nylon brads, staples,nails. Anybody know of a supplier?

[steve sparhawk]

Somewhere I read about plastic/nylon brads, staples,nails. Anybody know of a supplier?

[steve sparhawk]

Somewhere I read about plastic/nylon brads, staples,nails. Anybody know of a supplier?

[JimConlin]

www.raptornails.com/ (http://www.raptornails.com/)

[JimConlin]

www.raptornails.com/ (http://www.raptornails.com/)

[JimConlin]

www.raptornails.com/ (http://www.raptornails.com/)

[charles carini]

great, but what is if any the consenses here to wb's. I can see the validity but do any of you used them?

[charles carini]

great, but what is if any the consenses here to wb's. I can see the validity but do any of you used them?

[charles carini]

great, but what is if any the consenses here to wb's. I can see the validity but do any of you used them?

[imported_Conrad]

I bought some and played around with them. You need to modify your gun to get them to work properly- I didn't take the time to do it properly. Great tensile strength, not so good in shear, would work well for "clamping" while the glue sets, but I'm not sure they would be my first choice for really holding things together in a structure that works or moves. Haven't tried the staples, probably the best bet for cold molding if you want to leave the fastenings in, won't kill your tool blades either if fairing with a power plane, etc. Unfortunately, sizes are few and limited.

[imported_Conrad]

I bought some and played around with them. You need to modify your gun to get them to work properly- I didn't take the time to do it properly. Great tensile strength, not so good in shear, would work well for "clamping" while the glue sets, but I'm not sure they would be my first choice for really holding things together in a structure that works or moves. Haven't tried the staples, probably the best bet for cold molding if you want to leave the fastenings in, won't kill your tool blades either if fairing with a power plane, etc. Unfortunately, sizes are few and limited.

[imported_Conrad]

I bought some and played around with them. You need to modify your gun to get them to work properly- I didn't take the time to do it properly. Great tensile strength, not so good in shear, would work well for "clamping" while the glue sets, but I'm not sure they would be my first choice for really holding things together in a structure that works or moves. Haven't tried the staples, probably the best bet for cold molding if you want to leave the fastenings in, won't kill your tool blades either if fairing with a power plane, etc. Unfortunately, sizes are few and limited.

[NormMessinger]

Hey, Steve. Now what you up to?

Winter had to pass over you to get here so I hope you're staying warm

--Norm

[NormMessinger]

Hey, Steve. Now what you up to?

Winter had to pass over you to get here so I hope you're staying warm

--Norm

[NormMessinger]

Hey, Steve. Now what you up to?

Winter had to pass over you to get here so I hope you're staying warm

--Norm

[steve sparhawk]

So cold up here, the electricity gets stuck in my drill and the work is slowing down too much. Might as well give up and go in and see if SWMBO has a remedy for cold hands. (I know what you're thinking, Norm-----wish me luck.)

I got to drifting around and found an earlier post on the subject- but the current submissions are appreciated.

I was thinking of the cold moulding thing. Sure would take a big bite out of the labor of having to remove a zillion in each layer.

Can use a hand tacker for some and a modified pneumatic for bigger ones. I wouldn't need them for anything more than holding the laminate till the glue dried.

Wishing all a prosperous New Year.

Just dreaming -on the frozen plains.

[steve sparhawk]

So cold up here, the electricity gets stuck in my drill and the work is slowing down too much. Might as well give up and go in and see if SWMBO has a remedy for cold hands. (I know what you're thinking, Norm-----wish me luck.)

I got to drifting around and found an earlier post on the subject- but the current submissions are appreciated.

I was thinking of the cold moulding thing. Sure would take a big bite out of the labor of having to remove a zillion in each layer.

Can use a hand tacker for some and a modified pneumatic for bigger ones. I wouldn't need them for anything more than holding the laminate till the glue dried.

Wishing all a prosperous New Year.

Just dreaming -on the frozen plains.

[steve sparhawk]

So cold up here, the electricity gets stuck in my drill and the work is slowing down too much. Might as well give up and go in and see if SWMBO has a remedy for cold hands. (I know what you're thinking, Norm-----wish me luck.)

I got to drifting around and found an earlier post on the subject- but the current submissions are appreciated.

I was thinking of the cold moulding thing. Sure would take a big bite out of the labor of having to remove a zillion in each layer.

Can use a hand tacker for some and a modified pneumatic for bigger ones. I wouldn't need them for anything more than holding the laminate till the glue dried.

Wishing all a prosperous New Year.

Just dreaming -on the frozen plains.

[milmic@yahoo.com]

Jamestown Distributors has the Raptor Plastic Nails and Brads 18 gauge and 15 gauge, aswell as staples and the guns that shoot them. 800-423-0030. www.jamestowndistributors.com (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com)

I haven't used them myself on a project but they do have some neat characteristics.

[milmic@yahoo.com]

Jamestown Distributors has the Raptor Plastic Nails and Brads 18 gauge and 15 gauge, aswell as staples and the guns that shoot them. 800-423-0030. www.jamestowndistributors.com (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com)

I haven't used them myself on a project but they do have some neat characteristics.

[milmic@yahoo.com]

Jamestown Distributors has the Raptor Plastic Nails and Brads 18 gauge and 15 gauge, aswell as staples and the guns that shoot them. 800-423-0030. www.jamestowndistributors.com (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com)

I haven't used them myself on a project but they do have some neat characteristics.

[Carlsboats]

I am one of the fans of both the plastic nails and staples, using guns I bought from Raptor. The only drawback I can report is that the brads, being thin and flexible, do follow the grain -- meaning that in thin, strip-plank construction, some of them are going to pop through the surface inside or outside the boat. That would be a cosmetic problem if you were bright-finishing. It is no problem to me, as the surface is to be painted. Of course, if someone is doing a "perfect" job, he would plank with perfectly quarter-sawn stock, and plastic nails would all track straight into the plank below. But if I had cedar or spruce that beautiful, I would save it for guitar making. CARLSBOATS

[Carlsboats]

I am one of the fans of both the plastic nails and staples, using guns I bought from Raptor. The only drawback I can report is that the brads, being thin and flexible, do follow the grain -- meaning that in thin, strip-plank construction, some of them are going to pop through the surface inside or outside the boat. That would be a cosmetic problem if you were bright-finishing. It is no problem to me, as the surface is to be painted. Of course, if someone is doing a "perfect" job, he would plank with perfectly quarter-sawn stock, and plastic nails would all track straight into the plank below. But if I had cedar or spruce that beautiful, I would save it for guitar making. CARLSBOATS

[Carlsboats]

I am one of the fans of both the plastic nails and staples, using guns I bought from Raptor. The only drawback I can report is that the brads, being thin and flexible, do follow the grain -- meaning that in thin, strip-plank construction, some of them are going to pop through the surface inside or outside the boat. That would be a cosmetic problem if you were bright-finishing. It is no problem to me, as the surface is to be painted. Of course, if someone is doing a "perfect" job, he would plank with perfectly quarter-sawn stock, and plastic nails would all track straight into the plank below. But if I had cedar or spruce that beautiful, I would save it for guitar making. CARLSBOATS

[John Riddle]

The nails will track straight if you grind a small flat on the tip square to the shank. I touch them off a strip at a time on a sanding belt. Only takes a second.

[John Riddle]

The nails will track straight if you grind a small flat on the tip square to the shank. I touch them off a strip at a time on a sanding belt. Only takes a second.

[John Riddle]

The nails will track straight if you grind a small flat on the tip square to the shank. I touch them off a strip at a time on a sanding belt. Only takes a second.

[David Tabor (sailordave)]

About 17 years ago I knew a guy who was coldmolding over his Casey cutter (ended up in an article WB did probably early 85) Anyway he using strapping, like for packing crates and stapled through it and when the layer was dry he just pulled the strapping and pop, pop, pop, out came the staples....
Voila!

[David Tabor (sailordave)]

About 17 years ago I knew a guy who was coldmolding over his Casey cutter (ended up in an article WB did probably early 85) Anyway he using strapping, like for packing crates and stapled through it and when the layer was dry he just pulled the strapping and pop, pop, pop, out came the staples....
Voila!

[David Tabor (sailordave)]

About 17 years ago I knew a guy who was coldmolding over his Casey cutter (ended up in an article WB did probably early 85) Anyway he using strapping, like for packing crates and stapled through it and when the layer was dry he just pulled the strapping and pop, pop, pop, out came the staples....
Voila!

[paladin]

that trick works great as long as you use staples WITHOUT thermosetting resin on the tips..........

[paladin]

that trick works great as long as you use staples WITHOUT thermosetting resin on the tips..........

[paladin]

that trick works great as long as you use staples WITHOUT thermosetting resin on the tips..........