Floor Sander -- Brilliant Piece of Kit as the Brits Would Say

[Evan Showell]

Folks -- Used the Varathane Floor Sander this weekend. 24 Hr. rental from local Lowes for $35.00. I did a new red oak strip floor 12' x 12' through two grits of paper 50 and 80 in less than half a day with virtually no sanding dust courtesy of the attached vacuum. A truly brilliant tool for the job. Not the slightest bit unwieldy in operation, if a chore (at c. 125 lbs.) to get up a flight of stairs -- tip -- take the machine apart for transport.

Can't say enough good things about this tool. If you've finished or refinished floors in the past and have been putting off the refinishing job because of memories about the associated dust storm I am here to tell you -- it's a thing of the past.

If I had a bit more cowboy in me I'd have considered not wearing a respirator. The job was that clean.

Brilliant piece of kit!

[ 07-11-2005, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]

[Evan Showell]

Folks -- Used the Varathane Floor Sander this weekend. 24 Hr. rental from local Lowes for $35.00. I did a new red oak strip floor 12' x 12' through two grits of paper 50 and 80 in less than half a day with virtually no sanding dust courtesy of the attached vacuum. A truly brilliant tool for the job. Not the slightest bit unwieldy in operation, if a chore (at c. 125 lbs.) to get up a flight of stairs -- tip -- take the machine apart for transport.

Can't say enough good things about this tool. If you've finished or refinished floors in the past and have been putting off the refinishing job because of memories about the associated dust storm I am here to tell you -- it's a thing of the past.

If I had a bit more cowboy in me I'd have considered not wearing a respirator. The job was that clean.

Brilliant piece of kit!

[ 07-11-2005, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]

[Evan Showell]

Folks -- Used the Varathane Floor Sander this weekend. 24 Hr. rental from local Lowes for $35.00. I did a new red oak strip floor 12' x 12' through two grits of paper 50 and 80 in less than half a day with virtually no sanding dust courtesy of the attached vacuum. A truly brilliant tool for the job. Not the slightest bit unwieldy in operation, if a chore (at c. 125 lbs.) to get up a flight of stairs -- tip -- take the machine apart for transport.

Can't say enough good things about this tool. If you've finished or refinished floors in the past and have been putting off the refinishing job because of memories about the associated dust storm I am here to tell you -- it's a thing of the past.

If I had a bit more cowboy in me I'd have considered not wearing a respirator. The job was that clean.

Brilliant piece of kit!

[ 07-11-2005, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]

[Todd Bradshaw]

If that's the one that works like like a giant, weighted, orbital pad sander, we tried to use one to refinish our oak floors, but it wouldn't cut through the old finish. We had to go back and rent one of those drum sanders and an edger to do the initial destruction and then did the finish sanding with the Varathane machine. It worked nicely for that and is certainly easier to control and less prone to making ugly spots than the drum, but an old hard finish may be more than it's up to. Their water-based "Diamond" varnish and water-based stains are also quite good.

[Todd Bradshaw]

If that's the one that works like like a giant, weighted, orbital pad sander, we tried to use one to refinish our oak floors, but it wouldn't cut through the old finish. We had to go back and rent one of those drum sanders and an edger to do the initial destruction and then did the finish sanding with the Varathane machine. It worked nicely for that and is certainly easier to control and less prone to making ugly spots than the drum, but an old hard finish may be more than it's up to. Their water-based "Diamond" varnish and water-based stains are also quite good.

[Todd Bradshaw]

If that's the one that works like like a giant, weighted, orbital pad sander, we tried to use one to refinish our oak floors, but it wouldn't cut through the old finish. We had to go back and rent one of those drum sanders and an edger to do the initial destruction and then did the finish sanding with the Varathane machine. It worked nicely for that and is certainly easier to control and less prone to making ugly spots than the drum, but an old hard finish may be more than it's up to. Their water-based "Diamond" varnish and water-based stains are also quite good.

[Evan Showell]

Not a random orbital "pad" -- rather the sander has three individual random orbital sanders of say 6" diameter mounted in a triangle. Those three sanders rotate independently of one another and are, in turn mounted on a larger disk that itself rotates. True I used it on a new floor and did not have to break down an old finish, but I was advised that with 36 grit paper it would take care of an old finish. I'll let you know 'cause I'll probably give it a try in a few months time.

I am opting for Varathane's oil-based floor coating. I'd prefer the easy clean up of the water based, but I understand the water based product to be water clear. As such, it is reputed to show scratches more than the oil based finish which is supposed to have a slight amber tint. Physics probably has something to do with it, but I will not dazzle assembled company with my ignorance of that subject -- perhaps something to do with refractivity?

I have used the Minwax Polycrylic water-based product and was disappointed with its softness and tendency to show scratches quite readily.

Edited to add discussion of finishing products and for spelling.

[ 07-12-2005, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]

[Evan Showell]

Not a random orbital "pad" -- rather the sander has three individual random orbital sanders of say 6" diameter mounted in a triangle. Those three sanders rotate independently of one another and are, in turn mounted on a larger disk that itself rotates. True I used it on a new floor and did not have to break down an old finish, but I was advised that with 36 grit paper it would take care of an old finish. I'll let you know 'cause I'll probably give it a try in a few months time.

I am opting for Varathane's oil-based floor coating. I'd prefer the easy clean up of the water based, but I understand the water based product to be water clear. As such, it is reputed to show scratches more than the oil based finish which is supposed to have a slight amber tint. Physics probably has something to do with it, but I will not dazzle assembled company with my ignorance of that subject -- perhaps something to do with refractivity?

I have used the Minwax Polycrylic water-based product and was disappointed with its softness and tendency to show scratches quite readily.

Edited to add discussion of finishing products and for spelling.

[ 07-12-2005, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]

[Evan Showell]

Not a random orbital "pad" -- rather the sander has three individual random orbital sanders of say 6" diameter mounted in a triangle. Those three sanders rotate independently of one another and are, in turn mounted on a larger disk that itself rotates. True I used it on a new floor and did not have to break down an old finish, but I was advised that with 36 grit paper it would take care of an old finish. I'll let you know 'cause I'll probably give it a try in a few months time.

I am opting for Varathane's oil-based floor coating. I'd prefer the easy clean up of the water based, but I understand the water based product to be water clear. As such, it is reputed to show scratches more than the oil based finish which is supposed to have a slight amber tint. Physics probably has something to do with it, but I will not dazzle assembled company with my ignorance of that subject -- perhaps something to do with refractivity?

I have used the Minwax Polycrylic water-based product and was disappointed with its softness and tendency to show scratches quite readily.

Edited to add discussion of finishing products and for spelling.

[ 07-12-2005, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]

[Todd Bradshaw]

That must be a new sander. The Varathane machine we used was just one big square pad about 18" across. If the new one has disks it should cut better. The water-based Diamond varnish is water-clear and stays that way, but don't underestimate it's toughness. If anything, it's harder than the places where we used their oil-based varnish. We get some scratching from our 100 lb. black lab's claws, but it's mostly the oak underneath that's compressing and it happens on both types of varnish so I wouldn't say that one shows scratches more than the other. The oil varnish does smooth out and flow a little better, so we generally use their mop-gizmo to apply the water-based and follow by tipping it out with a foam brush. My biggest complaint with the oil-based is that every time you turn on the stove for about a week after applying it, the whole house smells like a bus just drove through. Must be some kind of residual solvent burn-off that takes a while to really go away. In any case, we weren't thrilled with the performance of their big pad sander, but both types of varnish have held up quite well. We did switch from the Flecto stain to Minwax which seems to be just as good and is about 30% cheaper to buy.

[Todd Bradshaw]

That must be a new sander. The Varathane machine we used was just one big square pad about 18" across. If the new one has disks it should cut better. The water-based Diamond varnish is water-clear and stays that way, but don't underestimate it's toughness. If anything, it's harder than the places where we used their oil-based varnish. We get some scratching from our 100 lb. black lab's claws, but it's mostly the oak underneath that's compressing and it happens on both types of varnish so I wouldn't say that one shows scratches more than the other. The oil varnish does smooth out and flow a little better, so we generally use their mop-gizmo to apply the water-based and follow by tipping it out with a foam brush. My biggest complaint with the oil-based is that every time you turn on the stove for about a week after applying it, the whole house smells like a bus just drove through. Must be some kind of residual solvent burn-off that takes a while to really go away. In any case, we weren't thrilled with the performance of their big pad sander, but both types of varnish have held up quite well. We did switch from the Flecto stain to Minwax which seems to be just as good and is about 30% cheaper to buy.

[Todd Bradshaw]

That must be a new sander. The Varathane machine we used was just one big square pad about 18" across. If the new one has disks it should cut better. The water-based Diamond varnish is water-clear and stays that way, but don't underestimate it's toughness. If anything, it's harder than the places where we used their oil-based varnish. We get some scratching from our 100 lb. black lab's claws, but it's mostly the oak underneath that's compressing and it happens on both types of varnish so I wouldn't say that one shows scratches more than the other. The oil varnish does smooth out and flow a little better, so we generally use their mop-gizmo to apply the water-based and follow by tipping it out with a foam brush. My biggest complaint with the oil-based is that every time you turn on the stove for about a week after applying it, the whole house smells like a bus just drove through. Must be some kind of residual solvent burn-off that takes a while to really go away. In any case, we weren't thrilled with the performance of their big pad sander, but both types of varnish have held up quite well. We did switch from the Flecto stain to Minwax which seems to be just as good and is about 30% cheaper to buy.

[htom]

That's the SquareBuff. The one with the three round disks is the exV. I thought it had four, but I was thinking of this one http://www.u-sand.com/photo_gallery.html which I saw being used on a new deck. I would think that the SquareBuff would do the best job on corners, but the U-Sand was very nice.

[htom]

That's the SquareBuff. The one with the three round disks is the exV. I thought it had four, but I was thinking of this one http://www.u-sand.com/photo_gallery.html which I saw being used on a new deck. I would think that the SquareBuff would do the best job on corners, but the U-Sand was very nice.

[htom]

That's the SquareBuff. The one with the three round disks is the exV. I thought it had four, but I was thinking of this one http://www.u-sand.com/photo_gallery.html which I saw being used on a new deck. I would think that the SquareBuff would do the best job on corners, but the U-Sand was very nice.

[StevenBauer]

I used that U-sand one on my fir bedroom floor - it was awesome! I've used the square_buff and regular and heavy-duty drums but the U-sand was the best. Maybe next time I'll try the ezV.

Steven

Edited to ask if you need an edge sander. With the U-sand it gets to within an 1/8" of the wall - no edge sander needed.

[ 07-12-2005, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: StevenBauer ]

[StevenBauer]

I used that U-sand one on my fir bedroom floor - it was awesome! I've used the square_buff and regular and heavy-duty drums but the U-sand was the best. Maybe next time I'll try the ezV.

Steven

Edited to ask if you need an edge sander. With the U-sand it gets to within an 1/8" of the wall - no edge sander needed.

[ 07-12-2005, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: StevenBauer ]

[StevenBauer]

I used that U-sand one on my fir bedroom floor - it was awesome! I've used the square_buff and regular and heavy-duty drums but the U-sand was the best. Maybe next time I'll try the ezV.

Steven

Edited to ask if you need an edge sander. With the U-sand it gets to within an 1/8" of the wall - no edge sander needed.

[ 07-12-2005, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: StevenBauer ]

[Todd Bradshaw]

Those disk machines sound much more suitable for serious removal than the Square-Buff was. Also, if they can do the edges it's a real plus as the edgers can do some serious damage fast in the hands of us regular folk. The Square-Buff fits nicely into edge situations, but if you have to cut through a hard finish, it takes forever to do it.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Those disk machines sound much more suitable for serious removal than the Square-Buff was. Also, if they can do the edges it's a real plus as the edgers can do some serious damage fast in the hands of us regular folk. The Square-Buff fits nicely into edge situations, but if you have to cut through a hard finish, it takes forever to do it.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Those disk machines sound much more suitable for serious removal than the Square-Buff was. Also, if they can do the edges it's a real plus as the edgers can do some serious damage fast in the hands of us regular folk. The Square-Buff fits nicely into edge situations, but if you have to cut through a hard finish, it takes forever to do it.

[bamamick]

That's great, Evan. Now you're that much closer to sanding on your Dragon, lol.

I still haven't talked to my friend about the frames, yet, but I will. I haven't forgotten.

Mickey Lake

[bamamick]

That's great, Evan. Now you're that much closer to sanding on your Dragon, lol.

I still haven't talked to my friend about the frames, yet, but I will. I haven't forgotten.

Mickey Lake

[bamamick]

That's great, Evan. Now you're that much closer to sanding on your Dragon, lol.

I still haven't talked to my friend about the frames, yet, but I will. I haven't forgotten.

Mickey Lake

[Matt J.]

We used the u-Sand machine for ?? SF of red oak floors... through the old finish was a nightmare; should have used heavier grit...

Next time we'll not wait until the entire finish needs to be removed, but refresh them long before that point... We used MinWay poly and it has not held up to our pups very well at all.

Thanks for the review Evan. Only question - how close to the edges does it get? I used my RO sander and detail sander for the edges, after heat gun and scraping the old finish off...

[Matt J.]

We used the u-Sand machine for ?? SF of red oak floors... through the old finish was a nightmare; should have used heavier grit...

Next time we'll not wait until the entire finish needs to be removed, but refresh them long before that point... We used MinWay poly and it has not held up to our pups very well at all.

Thanks for the review Evan. Only question - how close to the edges does it get? I used my RO sander and detail sander for the edges, after heat gun and scraping the old finish off...

[Matt J.]

We used the u-Sand machine for ?? SF of red oak floors... through the old finish was a nightmare; should have used heavier grit...

Next time we'll not wait until the entire finish needs to be removed, but refresh them long before that point... We used MinWay poly and it has not held up to our pups very well at all.

Thanks for the review Evan. Only question - how close to the edges does it get? I used my RO sander and detail sander for the edges, after heat gun and scraping the old finish off...

[Evan Showell]

It'll get you close enough to the walls so as not to need an edge sander if you have baseboards removed -- not an issue for me as I was laying a new floor. If you are re-doing an existing finish it'll probably get you pretty close to the wall since the individual disc sanders go pretty much right out to the edge of the larger disc, but there is a gap between the larger disc and the interior of the vacuum/sander head housing -- plus the housing has some thickness to it. I'd say you can probably get within a quarter to half inch of the baseboard, which means you'll need to do something with an edger or ROS to finish up. If you are willing to remove the baseboards (i.e., if you believe in doing high quality work), then it shouldn't be an issue and I would say you wouldn't need an edger.

Let's put it this way, it's the only sander I rented for the job.

What truly blew me away about this sander was how quickly it worked, but more importantly, that it was virtually dustless. I kept an eye on the bag and emptied it frequently. Through two grits of paper 50 and 80 (and I only used two sheets of the 50 per disc, i.e., 6 pieces of 50 grit total) and only one sheet of 80 grit) I filled four large Quaker Oats Oatmeal containers with sanding dust.

[ 07-13-2005, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]

[Evan Showell]

It'll get you close enough to the walls so as not to need an edge sander if you have baseboards removed -- not an issue for me as I was laying a new floor. If you are re-doing an existing finish it'll probably get you pretty close to the wall since the individual disc sanders go pretty much right out to the edge of the larger disc, but there is a gap between the larger disc and the interior of the vacuum/sander head housing -- plus the housing has some thickness to it. I'd say you can probably get within a quarter to half inch of the baseboard, which means you'll need to do something with an edger or ROS to finish up. If you are willing to remove the baseboards (i.e., if you believe in doing high quality work), then it shouldn't be an issue and I would say you wouldn't need an edger.

Let's put it this way, it's the only sander I rented for the job.

What truly blew me away about this sander was how quickly it worked, but more importantly, that it was virtually dustless. I kept an eye on the bag and emptied it frequently. Through two grits of paper 50 and 80 (and I only used two sheets of the 50 per disc, i.e., 6 pieces of 50 grit total) and only one sheet of 80 grit) I filled four large Quaker Oats Oatmeal containers with sanding dust.

[ 07-13-2005, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]

[Evan Showell]

It'll get you close enough to the walls so as not to need an edge sander if you have baseboards removed -- not an issue for me as I was laying a new floor. If you are re-doing an existing finish it'll probably get you pretty close to the wall since the individual disc sanders go pretty much right out to the edge of the larger disc, but there is a gap between the larger disc and the interior of the vacuum/sander head housing -- plus the housing has some thickness to it. I'd say you can probably get within a quarter to half inch of the baseboard, which means you'll need to do something with an edger or ROS to finish up. If you are willing to remove the baseboards (i.e., if you believe in doing high quality work), then it shouldn't be an issue and I would say you wouldn't need an edger.

Let's put it this way, it's the only sander I rented for the job.

What truly blew me away about this sander was how quickly it worked, but more importantly, that it was virtually dustless. I kept an eye on the bag and emptied it frequently. Through two grits of paper 50 and 80 (and I only used two sheets of the 50 per disc, i.e., 6 pieces of 50 grit total) and only one sheet of 80 grit) I filled four large Quaker Oats Oatmeal containers with sanding dust.

[ 07-13-2005, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: Evan Showell ]