Building Console / table saw method

[Alan Peck]

I am planning to build a steering console for my runabout. The basic shape of the console is to be a rectangle with the front/back and sides sloping inward at an angle of 15 degrees.

Does anyone have a set of tables that can tell me the blade angle and mitre angle that I need to set on my table saw to cut the corners where the front/back and sides meet?

I probably have not given an adequate description of what I am trying to do, if so, let me know and I'll try again to describe it.

Thanks for any help!

[Jamie Hascall]

I can recall doing a similar setup on a chop saw by building a wedge backpiece of the appropriate angle of lean and using it to support the stock when I cut regular miters. I imagine you could probably set up a similar support for your miter gauge or cradle. Trying to actually figure out the angles would just make my head hurt and probably not be as predictable as I'd like.

Good luck, I look forward to more reasoned solutions.

Jamie

[This message has been edited by Jamie Hascall (edited 01-09-2002).]

[Quk&DrtyPete]

Alan..... I have just completed a center console for my 14 ft. Thompson. Basically I built a rect. box 24 in. wide, so that it fits between the stringers, 6 in deep and 27 in high. I also built a front seat as part of the console. I used mahogany I had laying around from the original front seat assembly. Also am installing two upolestered swivel seats with arm rests, one at the console and the other on the console seat. So far it looks great......Good Luck!

[Brian Lobdell]

Hi Alan. If you e-mail me a sketch maybe I can help.
Brian

[doorstop]

Why not build a mock-up using cardboard and masking tape? You should then be able to copy your angles off using sliding bevels and the like, you could even do the cutouts for instruments electronics etc.

[ken mcclure]

Sounds like you are planning to miter all the corner joints, from your description. I would recommend against this, as you will have some strength problems if you do unless you are going to use an inside framework.

If you do want to do it this way, you need to make yourself a jig for the table saw that holds your work piece at the correct angle (15 degrees in this case) as the jig and workpiece pass over the blade. Check the jig books - this would be similar to the jig you'd use to make a tapered leg on a table.

The blade would then be set at a 45 degree angle for the corner mitres.

[Dave R]

I agree with Ken. Mitering the edges will give you strength problems. Of course you could back all the joints with cleats for strength.

Here is a link, though, to a table for compound miter angles.
http://www.wwforum.com/faqs_articles/miterangle.html
Here's the formula: http://www.wwforum.com/faqs_articles/miter_formula.html

[RGM]

Alan, if I were doing this myself I wouldn't use full length miters on these corner joints. As kw and Dave R indicate it's not the strongest way to go. If you use full length rabbet joints at the corners with backing blocks on the inside, corner trim on the outside, it will be strong, easy to fit up and the corner trim will add protection and cover any "sins" if necessary. Or you could make some nice looking (properly proportioned) corner posts with a rabbetted or dadoed fit for your panels. Mitered corners would be my last choice. But that's my choice. It's your boat. How's this thing going to be secured to your deck?

[Alan Peck]

Thanks to everyone who replied. I'll use the information to figure out my next step.

This forum is truly a great resource.

Alan

[Stephen Hutchins]

Using a jig and seting the blade to 45 degrees is a good way to do it if you're going to miter. However, the angle of the foward and side pieces should each rest on the jig at 7.5 degrees from the fence of the saw. When you lean the two pieces together,you'll get the 15 degrees you want.