Tool review: Bosch wormdrive circular saw

[L.W. Baxter]

I bought one of these a couple months ago, and I've used it enough to give it a review.

I realize that some won't consider this a shop tool, much less a boatbuilding tool, but I like to use a wormdrive in the shop on occasion. I even built my first strip-canoe with one. Ripped my planking strips using a wormdrive and a special ripping gauge of my own devising.

Also, hand-held circular saws are the best tool for cutting wide curves out of sheet plywood, such as for glued-lap planking.

Thus, I thought my fellow boatbuilding enthusiasts might enjoy the benefits of my experience as a daily driver of this tool.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pfa33329d2f9e45401f101c236dae7150/f852ed95.jpg

The Bosch has a couple features that the Skil doesn't have, which make it, to my way of thinking, a competitive tool. Below, you'll see a couple imrovements:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p7b73e80cacfa8a914db33c267b4433a5/f852ed23.jpg

First and most important in my opinion is the little adjustment screw in the lower left corner of the above picture, which can be moved up or down to provide a positive stop at dead-nuts 90 degrees. This comes in handy right out of the box, as I have experienced with Skilsaws that they are frequently less than perfect even when new. And the first time you drop it? Fuggedaboudit!

Not terribly important in rough carpentry, but plenty nice to have for shop work.

The other thing is the wider range of bevel adjustment. The Bosch goes to 50 degrees bevel, which doesn't matter very often, but it is cool when it does.

And in the picture below is another nicety:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pc10b7989684831488e096ab3c8845169/f852ed4e.jpg

A hangar is built in to the handle. It seems to me to be more durable than the aftermarket hangars you can put on the Skils and their clones.

A hangar isn't real important in the shop, but it's nice, anyway. It can save you from that sickening feeling of tripping on the cord and pulling the saw off the workbench and onto the concrete floor!

Which brings us to price. The Bosch is about $20 more expensive than the Skil Mag77. But, it comes with an actual, carbide tipped combo blade. The Skils come with a garbage blade that I never bother to use. Seriously, they're that bad.

Throw in the built-in hangar, and I think the Bosch is worthwhile.

Unfortunately, they've already redesigned it. :rolleyes: They've added what the call "direct connect", which is a male electrical receptacle built in to the handle. I know this because I went to buy another one the other day.

This is unfortunate, though not a deal-breaker. I have had problems with the built-in receptacles on D-handled routers, as they get water in them (working outside, of course) and burn up. Like this Bosch router. The receptacle got fried, so now we use it by plugging in directly, bypassing the trigger switch. It can be fixed, obviously, but it's a special order part. It's a drag.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pf07e20300a7054e2227159623feeb1c7/f852ecee.jpg

Fortunately, the saw receptacle has a grounding prong, which should make it more durable.

And in the shop, it shouldn't matter, either way. Actually, having a direct connection might be handier in the shop environment.

As far as the durability of the worm-drive gearing itself, the jury will still be out for quite awhile. But I don't imagine it will be appreciably different than the Skil.

--Lee

PS, I wasn't paid for this review. But now I'm thinking they ought to give me something !

[L.W. Baxter]

I bought one of these a couple months ago, and I've used it enough to give it a review.

I realize that some won't consider this a shop tool, much less a boatbuilding tool, but I like to use a wormdrive in the shop on occasion. I even built my first strip-canoe with one. Ripped my planking strips using a wormdrive and a special ripping gauge of my own devising.

Also, hand-held circular saws are the best tool for cutting wide curves out of sheet plywood, such as for glued-lap planking.

Thus, I thought my fellow boatbuilding enthusiasts might enjoy the benefits of my experience as a daily driver of this tool.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pfa33329d2f9e45401f101c236dae7150/f852ed95.jpg

The Bosch has a couple features that the Skil doesn't have, which make it, to my way of thinking, a competitive tool. Below, you'll see a couple imrovements:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p7b73e80cacfa8a914db33c267b4433a5/f852ed23.jpg

First and most important in my opinion is the little adjustment screw in the lower left corner of the above picture, which can be moved up or down to provide a positive stop at dead-nuts 90 degrees. This comes in handy right out of the box, as I have experienced with Skilsaws that they are frequently less than perfect even when new. And the first time you drop it? Fuggedaboudit!

Not terribly important in rough carpentry, but plenty nice to have for shop work.

The other thing is the wider range of bevel adjustment. The Bosch goes to 50 degrees bevel, which doesn't matter very often, but it is cool when it does.

And in the picture below is another nicety:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pc10b7989684831488e096ab3c8845169/f852ed4e.jpg

A hangar is built in to the handle. It seems to me to be more durable than the aftermarket hangars you can put on the Skils and their clones.

A hangar isn't real important in the shop, but it's nice, anyway. It can save you from that sickening feeling of tripping on the cord and pulling the saw off the workbench and onto the concrete floor!

Which brings us to price. The Bosch is about $20 more expensive than the Skil Mag77. But, it comes with an actual, carbide tipped combo blade. The Skils come with a garbage blade that I never bother to use. Seriously, they're that bad.

Throw in the built-in hangar, and I think the Bosch is worthwhile.

Unfortunately, they've already redesigned it. :rolleyes: They've added what the call "direct connect", which is a male electrical receptacle built in to the handle. I know this because I went to buy another one the other day.

This is unfortunate, though not a deal-breaker. I have had problems with the built-in receptacles on D-handled routers, as they get water in them (working outside, of course) and burn up. Like this Bosch router. The receptacle got fried, so now we use it by plugging in directly, bypassing the trigger switch. It can be fixed, obviously, but it's a special order part. It's a drag.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pf07e20300a7054e2227159623feeb1c7/f852ecee.jpg

Fortunately, the saw receptacle has a grounding prong, which should make it more durable.

And in the shop, it shouldn't matter, either way. Actually, having a direct connection might be handier in the shop environment.

As far as the durability of the worm-drive gearing itself, the jury will still be out for quite awhile. But I don't imagine it will be appreciably different than the Skil.

--Lee

PS, I wasn't paid for this review. But now I'm thinking they ought to give me something !

[L.W. Baxter]

I bought one of these a couple months ago, and I've used it enough to give it a review.

I realize that some won't consider this a shop tool, much less a boatbuilding tool, but I like to use a wormdrive in the shop on occasion. I even built my first strip-canoe with one. Ripped my planking strips using a wormdrive and a special ripping gauge of my own devising.

Also, hand-held circular saws are the best tool for cutting wide curves out of sheet plywood, such as for glued-lap planking.

Thus, I thought my fellow boatbuilding enthusiasts might enjoy the benefits of my experience as a daily driver of this tool.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pfa33329d2f9e45401f101c236dae7150/f852ed95.jpg

The Bosch has a couple features that the Skil doesn't have, which make it, to my way of thinking, a competitive tool. Below, you'll see a couple imrovements:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/p7b73e80cacfa8a914db33c267b4433a5/f852ed23.jpg

First and most important in my opinion is the little adjustment screw in the lower left corner of the above picture, which can be moved up or down to provide a positive stop at dead-nuts 90 degrees. This comes in handy right out of the box, as I have experienced with Skilsaws that they are frequently less than perfect even when new. And the first time you drop it? Fuggedaboudit!

Not terribly important in rough carpentry, but plenty nice to have for shop work.

The other thing is the wider range of bevel adjustment. The Bosch goes to 50 degrees bevel, which doesn't matter very often, but it is cool when it does.

And in the picture below is another nicety:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pc10b7989684831488e096ab3c8845169/f852ed4e.jpg

A hangar is built in to the handle. It seems to me to be more durable than the aftermarket hangars you can put on the Skils and their clones.

A hangar isn't real important in the shop, but it's nice, anyway. It can save you from that sickening feeling of tripping on the cord and pulling the saw off the workbench and onto the concrete floor!

Which brings us to price. The Bosch is about $20 more expensive than the Skil Mag77. But, it comes with an actual, carbide tipped combo blade. The Skils come with a garbage blade that I never bother to use. Seriously, they're that bad.

Throw in the built-in hangar, and I think the Bosch is worthwhile.

Unfortunately, they've already redesigned it. :rolleyes: They've added what the call "direct connect", which is a male electrical receptacle built in to the handle. I know this because I went to buy another one the other day.

This is unfortunate, though not a deal-breaker. I have had problems with the built-in receptacles on D-handled routers, as they get water in them (working outside, of course) and burn up. Like this Bosch router. The receptacle got fried, so now we use it by plugging in directly, bypassing the trigger switch. It can be fixed, obviously, but it's a special order part. It's a drag.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid121/pf07e20300a7054e2227159623feeb1c7/f852ecee.jpg

Fortunately, the saw receptacle has a grounding prong, which should make it more durable.

And in the shop, it shouldn't matter, either way. Actually, having a direct connection might be handier in the shop environment.

As far as the durability of the worm-drive gearing itself, the jury will still be out for quite awhile. But I don't imagine it will be appreciably different than the Skil.

--Lee

PS, I wasn't paid for this review. But now I'm thinking they ought to give me something !

[RichardBlake]

Seeing as Bosch supposedly comes from this side of the pond, how about giving us an exact model number so I can bother the local Bosch dealer with it? I'd love to have a worm drive again (left mine behind when I left the States - voltage problem) but I've yet to see one over here.

[RichardBlake]

Seeing as Bosch supposedly comes from this side of the pond, how about giving us an exact model number so I can bother the local Bosch dealer with it? I'd love to have a worm drive again (left mine behind when I left the States - voltage problem) but I've yet to see one over here.

[RichardBlake]

Seeing as Bosch supposedly comes from this side of the pond, how about giving us an exact model number so I can bother the local Bosch dealer with it? I'd love to have a worm drive again (left mine behind when I left the States - voltage problem) but I've yet to see one over here.

[imported_Steven Bauer]

How much does that thing weigh? My Bosch sidewinder weighs about twice as much as my friend's Portercable. Why would you want to lug that thing around all the time?

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

How much does that thing weigh? My Bosch sidewinder weighs about twice as much as my friend's Portercable. Why would you want to lug that thing around all the time?

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

How much does that thing weigh? My Bosch sidewinder weighs about twice as much as my friend's Portercable. Why would you want to lug that thing around all the time?

Steven

[J P]

We have lots of saws in our timber framing shop. Our newest is a 10" Bigfoot built on the Bosch wormdrive.

http://www.bigfootsaws.com/

We also have a 10" Bigfoot built on the Skil wormdrive that we've had for many years. All the little improvements and additions on the Bosch add up to a nicer saw in our opinion. The Bosch is the new shop favorite. It's not surprising there are similarities as Bosch Power Tools and Skil are both subsidiaries of the same parent corp. I believe the Bosch is built on the Skil body.

As for weight, I prefer a saw with some heft for making accurate cuts on stationary material (like beams on sawhorses). For stick framing or awkward in-place cutting or one hand use a light saw is nice.

[J P]

We have lots of saws in our timber framing shop. Our newest is a 10" Bigfoot built on the Bosch wormdrive.

http://www.bigfootsaws.com/

We also have a 10" Bigfoot built on the Skil wormdrive that we've had for many years. All the little improvements and additions on the Bosch add up to a nicer saw in our opinion. The Bosch is the new shop favorite. It's not surprising there are similarities as Bosch Power Tools and Skil are both subsidiaries of the same parent corp. I believe the Bosch is built on the Skil body.

As for weight, I prefer a saw with some heft for making accurate cuts on stationary material (like beams on sawhorses). For stick framing or awkward in-place cutting or one hand use a light saw is nice.

[J P]

We have lots of saws in our timber framing shop. Our newest is a 10" Bigfoot built on the Bosch wormdrive.

http://www.bigfootsaws.com/

We also have a 10" Bigfoot built on the Skil wormdrive that we've had for many years. All the little improvements and additions on the Bosch add up to a nicer saw in our opinion. The Bosch is the new shop favorite. It's not surprising there are similarities as Bosch Power Tools and Skil are both subsidiaries of the same parent corp. I believe the Bosch is built on the Skil body.

As for weight, I prefer a saw with some heft for making accurate cuts on stationary material (like beams on sawhorses). For stick framing or awkward in-place cutting or one hand use a light saw is nice.

[Dave Fleming]

As I have said a few times in the past.
Robert Bosch bought first Stanley Electric Tools and gutted it and then they bought Skil and repeated the process.

My big beef is with the elimination of the Skil 100 hand power plane. Read the FAQ for this Forum for my comments on that fine tool.

As for a worm drive saw, they have been around since the 1920's so I hope to goodness there have been improvements!

Skil and Rockwell made electric and air powered models and, I think THOR did also but, that could be just my fault memory speaking. THOR was bought by Skil way back when.

Many a yard had at least one big honkin' Skil 12 inch worm drive, air powered for working on the ways regardless of being in the water.
That is one reason for air tools in a yard. No worry about electrocution. And with the addition of a 'painters valve' on the air line you can tweak the speed of the tool even more than just with the throttle switch.

Using a power saw whether worm drive or conventional for getting out planks is not new.

Holtzbt or is it Donn W, in an Imagestation album shows Roger with worm drive Skil Saw doing just that.

[Dave Fleming]

As I have said a few times in the past.
Robert Bosch bought first Stanley Electric Tools and gutted it and then they bought Skil and repeated the process.

My big beef is with the elimination of the Skil 100 hand power plane. Read the FAQ for this Forum for my comments on that fine tool.

As for a worm drive saw, they have been around since the 1920's so I hope to goodness there have been improvements!

Skil and Rockwell made electric and air powered models and, I think THOR did also but, that could be just my fault memory speaking. THOR was bought by Skil way back when.

Many a yard had at least one big honkin' Skil 12 inch worm drive, air powered for working on the ways regardless of being in the water.
That is one reason for air tools in a yard. No worry about electrocution. And with the addition of a 'painters valve' on the air line you can tweak the speed of the tool even more than just with the throttle switch.

Using a power saw whether worm drive or conventional for getting out planks is not new.

Holtzbt or is it Donn W, in an Imagestation album shows Roger with worm drive Skil Saw doing just that.

[Dave Fleming]

As I have said a few times in the past.
Robert Bosch bought first Stanley Electric Tools and gutted it and then they bought Skil and repeated the process.

My big beef is with the elimination of the Skil 100 hand power plane. Read the FAQ for this Forum for my comments on that fine tool.

As for a worm drive saw, they have been around since the 1920's so I hope to goodness there have been improvements!

Skil and Rockwell made electric and air powered models and, I think THOR did also but, that could be just my fault memory speaking. THOR was bought by Skil way back when.

Many a yard had at least one big honkin' Skil 12 inch worm drive, air powered for working on the ways regardless of being in the water.
That is one reason for air tools in a yard. No worry about electrocution. And with the addition of a 'painters valve' on the air line you can tweak the speed of the tool even more than just with the throttle switch.

Using a power saw whether worm drive or conventional for getting out planks is not new.

Holtzbt or is it Donn W, in an Imagestation album shows Roger with worm drive Skil Saw doing just that.

[L.W. Baxter]

After a few months further use, not to mention the additional purchase of two more of the units, I am rescinding my endorsement of the Bosch wormdrive. Some of the accoutrements have proven to be chincy, or poorly configured.

I've found the 50 degree beveling table and the attendent keeper spring to be a nuisance. Also, after things loosen up, the blade guard begins to interfere with the bevel change. The lever locking the bevel adjustment can spin past the front of the table, and get caught. On two of three saws, the lever on the cut-depth locking nut broke. Ridiculous. I've since scavenged replacements from a couple dead Skils (one was dropped through a clerestory, another went up in smoke).

Yesterday I purchased a new Rigid wormdrive. I'm skeptical, but it has a couple nice features, including a scale running down the side of the blade to show the length of cut up to 8" or so.

It's got suspiciously thin metal in places, and also some silly little rubber tips on all the levers and knobs. Those are already coming off, after one day on the job. And I didn't notice until I got mine out of the box, but the cord has no grounding wire. Just two prongs. They gotta be kidding. Oh, and a neat little velcro strap to tie the cord ends together. :rolleyes:

I'll let you know how it turns out.

--Lee

PS to Steven, several months late. I can't tell the difference between the Skil, Bosch, or Rigid saws, weight wise. The Makita is noticeably lighter... and it likes to jump out of your hand when you start it up.

[L.W. Baxter]

After a few months further use, not to mention the additional purchase of two more of the units, I am rescinding my endorsement of the Bosch wormdrive. Some of the accoutrements have proven to be chincy, or poorly configured.

I've found the 50 degree beveling table and the attendent keeper spring to be a nuisance. Also, after things loosen up, the blade guard begins to interfere with the bevel change. The lever locking the bevel adjustment can spin past the front of the table, and get caught. On two of three saws, the lever on the cut-depth locking nut broke. Ridiculous. I've since scavenged replacements from a couple dead Skils (one was dropped through a clerestory, another went up in smoke).

Yesterday I purchased a new Rigid wormdrive. I'm skeptical, but it has a couple nice features, including a scale running down the side of the blade to show the length of cut up to 8" or so.

It's got suspiciously thin metal in places, and also some silly little rubber tips on all the levers and knobs. Those are already coming off, after one day on the job. And I didn't notice until I got mine out of the box, but the cord has no grounding wire. Just two prongs. They gotta be kidding. Oh, and a neat little velcro strap to tie the cord ends together. :rolleyes:

I'll let you know how it turns out.

--Lee

PS to Steven, several months late. I can't tell the difference between the Skil, Bosch, or Rigid saws, weight wise. The Makita is noticeably lighter... and it likes to jump out of your hand when you start it up.

[L.W. Baxter]

After a few months further use, not to mention the additional purchase of two more of the units, I am rescinding my endorsement of the Bosch wormdrive. Some of the accoutrements have proven to be chincy, or poorly configured.

I've found the 50 degree beveling table and the attendent keeper spring to be a nuisance. Also, after things loosen up, the blade guard begins to interfere with the bevel change. The lever locking the bevel adjustment can spin past the front of the table, and get caught. On two of three saws, the lever on the cut-depth locking nut broke. Ridiculous. I've since scavenged replacements from a couple dead Skils (one was dropped through a clerestory, another went up in smoke).

Yesterday I purchased a new Rigid wormdrive. I'm skeptical, but it has a couple nice features, including a scale running down the side of the blade to show the length of cut up to 8" or so.

It's got suspiciously thin metal in places, and also some silly little rubber tips on all the levers and knobs. Those are already coming off, after one day on the job. And I didn't notice until I got mine out of the box, but the cord has no grounding wire. Just two prongs. They gotta be kidding. Oh, and a neat little velcro strap to tie the cord ends together. :rolleyes:

I'll let you know how it turns out.

--Lee

PS to Steven, several months late. I can't tell the difference between the Skil, Bosch, or Rigid saws, weight wise. The Makita is noticeably lighter... and it likes to jump out of your hand when you start it up.

[RodB]

I have both the Makita and the Skill. I like the Makita so much better because of the weight and handling.

The Skill is massive and heavy but a good tool. The Makita, when turned on does "jump" a bit but she is very powerful and handles great. I used the Makita to cut out all my panels on my 18 foot stitch and glue boat. The "self stabilizing" worm drive types offer much more control when trying to cut accurately following a line. Lots of folks don't know that this "self stablization" of these saws stems from the motor and the blade being on two separate planes...results in a gyro effect of the saw when running.

I have noticed the Dewalt is smaller than the Skill but have not used one. I'm very happy with the Makita Hyphoid model.

RB

[ 10-30-2004, 02:40 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[RodB]

I have both the Makita and the Skill. I like the Makita so much better because of the weight and handling.

The Skill is massive and heavy but a good tool. The Makita, when turned on does "jump" a bit but she is very powerful and handles great. I used the Makita to cut out all my panels on my 18 foot stitch and glue boat. The "self stabilizing" worm drive types offer much more control when trying to cut accurately following a line. Lots of folks don't know that this "self stablization" of these saws stems from the motor and the blade being on two separate planes...results in a gyro effect of the saw when running.

I have noticed the Dewalt is smaller than the Skill but have not used one. I'm very happy with the Makita Hyphoid model.

RB

[ 10-30-2004, 02:40 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[RodB]

I have both the Makita and the Skill. I like the Makita so much better because of the weight and handling.

The Skill is massive and heavy but a good tool. The Makita, when turned on does "jump" a bit but she is very powerful and handles great. I used the Makita to cut out all my panels on my 18 foot stitch and glue boat. The "self stabilizing" worm drive types offer much more control when trying to cut accurately following a line. Lots of folks don't know that this "self stablization" of these saws stems from the motor and the blade being on two separate planes...results in a gyro effect of the saw when running.

I have noticed the Dewalt is smaller than the Skill but have not used one. I'm very happy with the Makita Hyphoid model.

RB

[ 10-30-2004, 02:40 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[Hal Forsen]

After my Original Skil 77 finally gave up the ghost I ended up going with the Dewalt. It sounds funny when you start it up but it cuts great has the hanger and is way lighter than any of the other saws and to my hand feels more comfortable in use. To each his own.
HF

[Hal Forsen]

After my Original Skil 77 finally gave up the ghost I ended up going with the Dewalt. It sounds funny when you start it up but it cuts great has the hanger and is way lighter than any of the other saws and to my hand feels more comfortable in use. To each his own.
HF

[Hal Forsen]

After my Original Skil 77 finally gave up the ghost I ended up going with the Dewalt. It sounds funny when you start it up but it cuts great has the hanger and is way lighter than any of the other saws and to my hand feels more comfortable in use. To each his own.
HF

[RodB]

Hey Hal, I have seen the Dewalt before in a pawn shop. I would have bought it but it was in bad condition and would have required too much repair. It does seem handy and lighter than the others, maybe a bit lighter than the Makita Hyphoid.

I have a mint condition Skill that I plan to get rid of simply because of the size and weight. I think it is overkill for my uses.

RB

[RodB]

Hey Hal, I have seen the Dewalt before in a pawn shop. I would have bought it but it was in bad condition and would have required too much repair. It does seem handy and lighter than the others, maybe a bit lighter than the Makita Hyphoid.

I have a mint condition Skill that I plan to get rid of simply because of the size and weight. I think it is overkill for my uses.

RB

[RodB]

Hey Hal, I have seen the Dewalt before in a pawn shop. I would have bought it but it was in bad condition and would have required too much repair. It does seem handy and lighter than the others, maybe a bit lighter than the Makita Hyphoid.

I have a mint condition Skill that I plan to get rid of simply because of the size and weight. I think it is overkill for my uses.

RB

[L.W. Baxter]

One thing I hadn't noticed til today (buying more stuff!) was that Skil has improved the Mag 77 with a sturdier table (still magnesium). I'm going back to the old standby, next time. If the Rigid doesn't live up, I'm trading it in.

The Dewalt has an odd configuration, for my purposes. I do alot of cutting rafter tails and fascia while kneeling on the wall plates, hanging out in space with my toenails dug in, and the higher hand position makes the Dewalt awkward in this posture. Can't see what I'm doin'. This is also reason number 73 for why I have no use for a hypoid drive saw. Numbers 1 thru 72 available on request.

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

One thing I hadn't noticed til today (buying more stuff!) was that Skil has improved the Mag 77 with a sturdier table (still magnesium). I'm going back to the old standby, next time. If the Rigid doesn't live up, I'm trading it in.

The Dewalt has an odd configuration, for my purposes. I do alot of cutting rafter tails and fascia while kneeling on the wall plates, hanging out in space with my toenails dug in, and the higher hand position makes the Dewalt awkward in this posture. Can't see what I'm doin'. This is also reason number 73 for why I have no use for a hypoid drive saw. Numbers 1 thru 72 available on request.

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

One thing I hadn't noticed til today (buying more stuff!) was that Skil has improved the Mag 77 with a sturdier table (still magnesium). I'm going back to the old standby, next time. If the Rigid doesn't live up, I'm trading it in.

The Dewalt has an odd configuration, for my purposes. I do alot of cutting rafter tails and fascia while kneeling on the wall plates, hanging out in space with my toenails dug in, and the higher hand position makes the Dewalt awkward in this posture. Can't see what I'm doin'. This is also reason number 73 for why I have no use for a hypoid drive saw. Numbers 1 thru 72 available on request.

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

With the monsoon season in full gear, and the rain falling on my head, and shorting out my tools, I'm wondering about D. Flemings post about air driven saws. How well did they perform? I've never seen one.

A few years back, I threw down my air driven impact wrench in disgust and bought an electric. No comparison, the electric is so much better. Drives 3/8" lag screws right through a 4" DF beam.

Just curious, if Dave or anyone else familiar with the air driven saws would care to comment.

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

With the monsoon season in full gear, and the rain falling on my head, and shorting out my tools, I'm wondering about D. Flemings post about air driven saws. How well did they perform? I've never seen one.

A few years back, I threw down my air driven impact wrench in disgust and bought an electric. No comparison, the electric is so much better. Drives 3/8" lag screws right through a 4" DF beam.

Just curious, if Dave or anyone else familiar with the air driven saws would care to comment.

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

With the monsoon season in full gear, and the rain falling on my head, and shorting out my tools, I'm wondering about D. Flemings post about air driven saws. How well did they perform? I've never seen one.

A few years back, I threw down my air driven impact wrench in disgust and bought an electric. No comparison, the electric is so much better. Drives 3/8" lag screws right through a 4" DF beam.

Just curious, if Dave or anyone else familiar with the air driven saws would care to comment.

--Lee

[Tom M.]

As a carpenter who's used all kinds of skilsaws, I'm baffled when the Bosch wormie isn't praised as the greatest ever.

For those who complain about weight...well, sorry to say, you just don't know how to use it.

HAHA Take that East Coasters. :D :D :D

[Tom M.]

As a carpenter who's used all kinds of skilsaws, I'm baffled when the Bosch wormie isn't praised as the greatest ever.

For those who complain about weight...well, sorry to say, you just don't know how to use it.

HAHA Take that East Coasters. :D :D :D

[Tom M.]

As a carpenter who's used all kinds of skilsaws, I'm baffled when the Bosch wormie isn't praised as the greatest ever.

For those who complain about weight...well, sorry to say, you just don't know how to use it.

HAHA Take that East Coasters. :D :D :D

[sbsbw]

STOP WHINING ABOUT WEIGHT

I have had to use a b&d 7 and a quarter saw that is prabably twice a heavy as the skil saws i use at the yard. not only that but the hight adjustment does not have a pivot point. the whole body of the saw moves up and down staying parrell with the plate. its impossible.

while i'm ranting about b&d i should comment on the "firestorm" cordless dril. some intelegnt person a b&d decided that they would make the chuck of the dril come off. in some ways its convinent becasue you can put a srewdriver bit in without the leanth of the chuck. but its really annoying when your triing to drill a stright hole.

SBSBW
(please exuse speelling, was in a rush)

[sbsbw]

STOP WHINING ABOUT WEIGHT

I have had to use a b&d 7 and a quarter saw that is prabably twice a heavy as the skil saws i use at the yard. not only that but the hight adjustment does not have a pivot point. the whole body of the saw moves up and down staying parrell with the plate. its impossible.

while i'm ranting about b&d i should comment on the "firestorm" cordless dril. some intelegnt person a b&d decided that they would make the chuck of the dril come off. in some ways its convinent becasue you can put a srewdriver bit in without the leanth of the chuck. but its really annoying when your triing to drill a stright hole.

SBSBW
(please exuse speelling, was in a rush)

[sbsbw]

STOP WHINING ABOUT WEIGHT

I have had to use a b&d 7 and a quarter saw that is prabably twice a heavy as the skil saws i use at the yard. not only that but the hight adjustment does not have a pivot point. the whole body of the saw moves up and down staying parrell with the plate. its impossible.

while i'm ranting about b&d i should comment on the "firestorm" cordless dril. some intelegnt person a b&d decided that they would make the chuck of the dril come off. in some ways its convinent becasue you can put a srewdriver bit in without the leanth of the chuck. but its really annoying when your triing to drill a stright hole.

SBSBW
(please exuse speelling, was in a rush)

[imported_Dutch]

I have had to use a b&d 7 and a quarter saw that is prabably twice a heavy as the skil saws i use at the yard. not only that but the hight adjustment does not have a pivot point. the whole body of the saw moves up and down staying parrell with the plate. beggin your pardon admiral, but i still have one of those in my inventory and use it on occassion

[imported_Dutch]

I have had to use a b&d 7 and a quarter saw that is prabably twice a heavy as the skil saws i use at the yard. not only that but the hight adjustment does not have a pivot point. the whole body of the saw moves up and down staying parrell with the plate. beggin your pardon admiral, but i still have one of those in my inventory and use it on occassion

[imported_Dutch]

I have had to use a b&d 7 and a quarter saw that is prabably twice a heavy as the skil saws i use at the yard. not only that but the hight adjustment does not have a pivot point. the whole body of the saw moves up and down staying parrell with the plate. beggin your pardon admiral, but i still have one of those in my inventory and use it on occassion

[L.W. Baxter]

Do NOT buy the Rigid wormdrive. It has a very real and obvious lack of power. Bogs down even ripping 1/2" ply. A joke. I don't know how they managed to bring such a pathetic tool to market.

I took mine back today, and got the latest version of the Skil Mag 77. I'm done experimenting.

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

Do NOT buy the Rigid wormdrive. It has a very real and obvious lack of power. Bogs down even ripping 1/2" ply. A joke. I don't know how they managed to bring such a pathetic tool to market.

I took mine back today, and got the latest version of the Skil Mag 77. I'm done experimenting.

--Lee

[L.W. Baxter]

Do NOT buy the Rigid wormdrive. It has a very real and obvious lack of power. Bogs down even ripping 1/2" ply. A joke. I don't know how they managed to bring such a pathetic tool to market.

I took mine back today, and got the latest version of the Skil Mag 77. I'm done experimenting.

--Lee

[sbsbw]

Dutch, no offence.

this tool is relivly new, I have a great respect for older b&d products.

Sbsbw

[sbsbw]

Dutch, no offence.

this tool is relivly new, I have a great respect for older b&d products.

Sbsbw

[sbsbw]

Dutch, no offence.

this tool is relivly new, I have a great respect for older b&d products.

Sbsbw