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Thetub
10-30-2013, 10:53 AM
Hi everyone,
First time poster. I've been reading the forums for a while, and finally got my boat to my place so I can slowly start the restore. My grandfather built this boat back in the 50's, and its been pretty good throughout the years, until about 5 years ago the rear bottom, transom, and rear sides (under the waterline) started to rot. Most of the boat is in great structural shape, just needs some sanding and paint/varnish. I'm probably going to be seeking some advice on the transom rebuild as this will probably be the most difficult to accomplish. I'm trying to upload a picture, but keeps saying I'm over my quota. After reading some other threads, I was a little reluctant to post this, being 'plywood' planking!

Rich Jones
10-30-2013, 11:04 AM
Welcome to the Forum. Fear not, we don't bite! We just try to give good, honest opinions gained from years of working with wooden boats. Nothing wrong with plywood boats. I've built a few and still have one of them. When posting pics, remember to uncheck that little box in the url section where you paste the pic.
A lot depends on the amount of rot and your ability to repair it. This boat certainly has sentimental value, so to you, is worth the effort.

Thetub
10-30-2013, 11:23 AM
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to upload the pics to the web and get them that way I guess, I was trying to do from my desktop. I also have all of the original plans, so fabricating new ribs or stringers shouldn't be a problem. The transom has been changed, when It was originally built, it was a smaller transom (15") to fit the smaller engines. It had an Evinrude Fat 50, biggest on the lake at that time. Anyways, about 15 years ago it was redone, im not sure how they did it (I was only 12 when it was done) but its 2 - 3/4" plywood pieces together and then bolted to the transom. My plan is to remove all the old plywood within the back 2-3' of the boat, and see how bad the stringer/ribs are. then go from there.http://www.flickr.com/photos/murrayfoto/10576667143/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/murrayfoto/10576634803/...here's the link

wizbang 13
10-30-2013, 11:51 AM
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7398/10576634803_41f4f15d91_c_d.jpghttp://farm4.staticflickr.com/3802/10576617343_f6855b8df2_c_d.jpghttp://farm4.staticflickr.com/3810/10576667143_653c8b697e_c_d.jpg

wizbang 13
10-30-2013, 11:56 AM
Don't pull the ply sides off to check the stringers , unless the sides are rotten .
the stringers are open to the inside , so can't you check everything without taking her apart?
I would just start pulling off the GF , scraping /sanding /poking .
I think the rusty bolts need to go away .
Has she been out in the weather for long? She is in good shape for her age .

Thetub
10-30-2013, 12:52 PM
You're right, I can just look on the inside. Most of them are in great shape, its just the 1-1.5' closest to the transom that would be the issue. Is it feasible to repair just the bad part of a stringer/rib and put new pieces in and attach them to the existing ones? Same question regarding the ply. I know for sure i need to replace from the sides from the bottom about half way up the side, and about 3-4' fwd. I'm planning on glassing most of the boat, bottom/sides, just for the longevity of it, since it will be painted anyways. It's been outside my bro in laws place for the past 2 years, tarp'd, but it has weathered a lot in those 2 years, glad to finally have it home. Also what is the 'GF'? Glass?

wizbang 13
10-30-2013, 03:22 PM
Oh , my tapping got wackbard , yes , gf/fg ...glass.
Stringers can be pretty easily scarphed, or even butted and doubled up .
The ply can too , it is just a little trickier . Some fancy grinding can do it . 8/1 scarph , temp screws for the glue set, re fair and maybe butt block tyhe inside later ..
Adding FG to the whole boat is something you may want to think about . It will add a lot of weight , money and work, and very little strength . And new epoxy coatings alone will help her to last .
Yes , an old ply boat will suffer a lot in just a season or 2 of sun, rain , leaves , frozen water.... she needs to be treated like a queen.

Thetub
10-31-2013, 07:37 AM
Thanks for all the help Wiz. I've already got 3 gallons of epoxy, and 150' of glass (good deal on ebay lol). I'd be ok not using the glass though :). Would it still be a good idea to do strips along joints and corners, jsut incase the wood expands/contracts to prevent cracks? Once I start the sanding I'll get some pics as I go.

wizbang 13
10-31-2013, 09:18 AM
If the wood expand and contracts at the chines (corners) , some GF tape there will not stop it . The FG tape will split too . One would have to make it about a quarter inch thick to not crack , but then , it would tear the wood up .
The trick is to minimize the wood movement. With epoxy , penetrating sealers , and "coatings" (paint), we can make it move much less and much slower.
Anyway , plywood does not move much to expansion and contraction when it gets wet . It can flex a bit , but that is what the frames , stringers , keel , screws and glue are for.

Thetub
10-31-2013, 12:06 PM
Would the Epoxy be used as the glue for the scarphing? or is there another wood glue to use?