View Full Version : 43 Chris Craft Sea Skiff Corinthian 1967 hull #2 reno

08-15-2013, 02:14 PM
hello, I would very much appreciate some direction and thoughts on how to treat the exterior hull below the water line on this boat as part of the reno process. This is a salt water boat pacific North west but spent the first 20 years in Lake Ontario, I have owned this boat for 27 years and manintained it in covered moorage , but have no experience outside of this wood hull. I have repowered for the second time and installed new cummins 6b in place of the gassers , last year, all new wiring followed and am now replacing the fuel and water tanks not because they are leaking but because I want to get access to the hull under the tanks to clean and paint , install new backing boards on struts etc. The hull on these boats is carvel plank and below the water line is on top of a plywood inner hull with doubled oak frames every 5 inchs..The CCraft keel was replaced when i got the boat for a heavy fir keel. There is a rubber polysulfide compond between the ply and hull planks.
I am in the process of cleaning off the old exterior hull treatment and bottom paint. I will sand and fair the hull starting this weekend. There are a number of the bungs that have come out requireing replacement. All exterior hull boards seem to be solid, including transom although there may be some hull problems inside the starboard transom area that I will not get to see till tonight when the tanks are out.
Question. what goes on the clean bottom, what caulking to use on any seam areas requireing it. These hulls do not move below the water line they seem almost like a glassed hull. Anyway Interlux says just put on a thinned XXX bottom paint once hull is dry and smooth, maybe two or three new coats. i would have thought there should be some base barrier coat, primer , ( red lead or some such) but have no knowledge or experience with coating a clean wood hull. I am concerned that I give the hull all the help I can by way of sealant to in so far as possible avoid any seam leaks and continue into the future. The ship yard answer is epoxy and given all that is said about that 'fix' I will not be doing it. Sorry for the long winded question which may be pretty simple.
Buying Wooden Boat mag so long ago has been a big part of buying and keeping this boat together. I am hopeful that at the end i will have a boat better than out of the box. Any comments gratefully accepted. I think i know just enough to be dangerous.

08-16-2013, 02:44 PM
Do not paint epoxy on the bottom, I would not take any more advice from whatever boatyard told you that. If there are seams requiring caulking you should use whatever method the boat was built with. Being that it is carvel planked over plywood I do not know if they used any cotton in the seams or just seam compound. The traditional method for a carvel hull is caulking cotton driven into the plank seam with a caulking iron and mallet to achieve the proper depth and set to the cotton followed by a below the waterline seam compound like Interlux brown. The seams can be primed with red lead before caulking.

As for the bottom paint you should use some kind of primer such as red lead, thinned bottom paint or Smiths CPES which is an epoxy product but it is much thinner than West System and will not encapsulate the wood which can cause problems down the road.


08-16-2013, 09:05 PM
I would follow what the paint supplier advises for bare timber. Even call a rep if it isn't clear.

wizbang 13
08-16-2013, 11:01 PM
I would prime the wood with CPES also .
Thinned anti fouling paint is a decent primer, assuming you NEVER miss a haul out again .
By putting CPES on there , in addition to its' other advantages , it will provide a worm barrier ( gribbles in the pac nw) in case the anti fouling wears out and the boat cannot be re painted for awhile .
The CPES will also provide an insulation to slow down electrolysis and corrosion in the hull fastenings.
but , i dunna understand how you have maintained the boat 27 years and just now ask this stuff?

08-17-2013, 10:55 AM

I was wondering the same thing. CPES would be my first choice for a primer as well for the reasons you mentioned. I have used both red lead and CPES below the waterline as a primer before anti foul and I have found the anti foul over CPES to hold up better than that primed with red lead.

08-19-2013, 11:43 AM
hello thanks for the responses, Mike and Bruce and Slacko, that is helpful , the boat has always been kept scrapped and bottom coated with a copper base like xxx, every year.. the difference this year prompting the question was that I took the time to essentially strip the hull back to the wood which was something I had never done before. I had always kept the paint build up under control as part of the cleaning process before painting but not back to bare wood if I could help it. I have now read up on the CPES and will finish the sanding and cleaning before utilizing the same. Then go to the thinned XXX. The boat has not had an electrolysis problem on the fastenings. there has been some wood backing board detirioration but i have replaced those from time to time if it appeared to be a problem. Thanks for the assistance, and for taking the time with a 'simple ' issue , it is greatly appreciated. Ted.