Screw hole filler

[Huey]

Hi folks,
I am about to attempt my first hull painting and need a little guidence. Some of the filler has come out of the screw holes and I do not know what to use to fill it back in. Will fairing compound work? If so, what brand is best? Also, is it ok to stop sanding at 120 grit or do I need to go finer? I plan to use Pettit Z spar enamel.

Thanks
Huey

[marsbar]

Don Danenberg recommends "Famowood". I just purchased two pints from Woodworkers supply and plan to give it a try.

[JimConlin]

It would be helpful to know the nature of the boat, the planking material and thickness, the depth of the fastenings, the paint system, etc.

[Jay Greer]

My own experience with the many materials avaiable for filling holes over fastenings has led me to favor epoxy and micro balloons. Zspar # 2 glaze will also work but, it is slow to dry and will shrink and require a second application.
An auto motive putty known as "Nitrostan" will also work and will dry faster than #2 Glaze. Famowood will have a tendency to absorb moisture over a period of time and will end up swelling and popping. Epoxy and micros are still my first choice but there will be a tendancy for the mixture to sag. I usually mix it in small batches and wait for it to start to kick before knifing it in. This will minimise the sag factor.

[Nick C]

The other great thing about epoxy is you can mix fine wood dust with it to get the color you want.

[Richard Smith]

Jay,

Any experience using either of these from West System?

407 Low-Density Filler
407 Low-Density filler is a blended microballoon-based filler used to make fairing putties that are easy to sand or carve. Reasonably strong on a strength-to-weight basis. Cures to a dark red/brown color.

410 MicrolightTM
410 MicrolightTM is the ideal low-density filler for creating a light, easily-worked fairing compound especially suited for fairing large areas. Microlight mixes with greater ease than 407 Low-Density filler or microballoons and is approximately 30% easier to sand. It feathers to a fine edge and is also more economical for large fairing jobs. Not recommended under dark paint or other surfaces subject to high temperatures. Cures to a tan color.

[Graham Knight]

My preference is for wooden plugs, preferably of the same timber that the boat is made from. There are several advantages, it looks good especially if the boat is finished bright, being made of the same natural material as the boat the plugs expand and contract at the same rate, they can be glued in using a less permanent waterproof adhesive than epoxy, making them relatively easy to dig out in future if neccessary. For bright finished boats I like to use varnish to glue the plugs in.