View Full Version : Tiller Help

11-12-2012, 06:51 PM
Okay guys I went out on Craig's List and bought this tiller for $50 and it even runs. But I need a recoil assembly which shouldn't be a problem. But there it is, there is not identifying marks on the tiller or the engine and believe me I've looked. It seems that the small engine part places I've contacted can't figure out which recoil assembly will work unless I have a model number. I'll post the pictures here and if you guys know of a good online parts place that can help me figure it out based on dimensions please let me know.






Some things I do know. The recoil assembly is fastened with 4 bolts 6" c/c and the spline on the end of the crank is 1" at its widest point.

I would even settle for one where I had to wrap the rope around the crank like in the old days. And before you ask the recoil assembly is pretty much shot, yeah I might could make it work but the plastic is already broken.


ron ll
11-12-2012, 07:11 PM
Sure looks Briggs and Stratton but I assume you knew that much already.


11-12-2012, 07:13 PM
I was thinking it was a B&S but nobody can seem to help beyond that. If I could find a good shop they would probably have some old guy in the back that would just know what I need. But as it is everybody depends on the computer and model numbers.


ron ll
11-12-2012, 07:18 PM
Can you narrow it down by any of these pics?

http://www.google.com/search?num=10&hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1334&bih=858&q=briggs+and+stratton+recoil+starter+parts&oq=briggs+and+stratton+recoil&gs_l=img.1.1.0i24l10.3975.11668.0.17119. .

11-12-2012, 07:21 PM
Not really. Without dimensions it is hard to tell. It seems the most critical is the spline and bolt pattern.


Bruce Taylor
11-12-2012, 07:29 PM
You're going to have a hell of a time attaching that thing to the rudder.

Paul Pless
11-12-2012, 07:31 PM
the colors suggest Montgomery Ward

11-12-2012, 07:34 PM
Certainly looks like a 3 to 5 HP Briggs.
Try calling these folks : http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Products/BRIGGS-STRATTON/Starter-Part/Starter-Recoil-Assemblies/150320/61273/s
Or, find a local shop that has piles of used parts. They have to be pretty common out there.
Or, for a fairly reasonable price you can buy a whole new engine. Honda clones from asia are pretty good and pretty cheap.

11-12-2012, 07:41 PM
This here's a boat forum son. The thing you've posted is a roto-tiller. Sheesh. Tennesseans.

umm, beyond that I cain't hep none. :D

George Jung
11-12-2012, 07:45 PM
B & S; those recoil units are pretty standard, though only way to know 'for sure' is to test fit one. Good suggestion putting on a new engine; they're actually pretty inexpensive.
Otherwise, I'd just buy a different recoil unit (or liberate one from a junker) and slap it together.

11-12-2012, 07:56 PM
I've already tried Jack's and they can't help without a model number.


11-12-2012, 08:06 PM
Find a farm with a misspelled, hand-painted "small engine repairs" sign. That's your guy and I guarantee there's one within ten miles of your house.


Vince Brennan
11-12-2012, 08:57 PM
Shucks. Y'all in EAST Tennessee, dammit.

Jes' take the engine out to th' Innerstate, stand by the side of the road with the thing in yer hand and in about ten minnits a pickup truck with four Good Ol' Boys'll slide up and you'll have it fixed 'fore you know

It ALWAYS worked for me in Blountville. Lawnmower, blender, chain saw, carburetor, lady's deep internal massager, they ALWAYS showed up and they ALWAYS fixed (whatever it was).


11-12-2012, 09:12 PM
Yer kidding..... Right?..... I literally just sent one of those to the dump last Friday, after holding on to it for 10 years because "It might come in handy some day"...... I'm not kidding. The best thing you can do is to get a simple starter sheave with a notch in the outer rim. Hand wrap pull start. Hold that starter cord lightly though, cause if it kicks while yer holding it, you could break an arm, or lose fingers.

11-12-2012, 09:47 PM
If you take the perforated mesh off, the whole alloy assembly can be unscrewed By (carefully) tapping with a punch the lugs that the small screws for the mesh go into in an anticlockwise direction. Hold the other end of the crank with vicegrips or similar.

Once it is off you may be able to repair it by freeing up the ball bearings that act as pawls inside, or get a later part to fit.

11-12-2012, 11:21 PM
That is a basic B&S 3-5 hp motor. You don't need a whole new recoil mechanism, just a new plastic wheel. Liberate one from a junker someone throws out, carefully bend up the tabs on your housing and put the new one in. Its no big deal, I've done it several times to replace starter ropes and clean & lubricate the pawls. In fact, unless the the plastic wheel is broken that could be all yours needs.



11-12-2012, 11:37 PM
3.5 B&S lawnmower parts work. Ensure the "square drive" is free to rotate on the end of the crank, the plastic wheel can be liberated from even a vertical shaft model. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Dumah,
Halifax, NS

Gib Etheridge
11-13-2012, 02:00 AM
When you find a replacement plastic pulley don't forget to give it a couple of turns of pretension or the cable won't retract all of the way, and yeah, remove and clean the pawl assembly. The balls get crudded up. If you put oil in the pawl they will get crudded up again. As I remember it they are designed to run clean and dry.

11-13-2012, 08:17 AM
Just put a socket on your cordless drill and use the Tennesee electric start.:d

11-14-2012, 06:17 PM
I think I may have found one. I finally found a company that is helpful. I've looked at re-working the existing recoil assembly, but as I said earlier the plastic wheel is already broken where it mates with the spline. A new recoil will be the answer and should only be in the $30 range.

Thanks for the help.


ron ll
11-14-2012, 06:51 PM
This thread has been blowing some cobwebs out of my brain and I just remembered that my brother and I made a homemade go-cart when we were kids that had a B&S engine with a kick starter on it, kind of like this.

11-14-2012, 07:38 PM
I just did some really hard looking and under paint and grim I found some numbers on the blower housing. Here is the e-mail I sent to sepw.com

After careful looking with a flashlight, wire brush and some chalk I managed to find some numbers that were buried under a layer of paint and pitting on the side of the blower housing. The first series of numbers appears to be 130202 0015-01 76091010. Of those three sets of numbers the last set is almost 100%. The last number appears to be a 0 but could possibly be a G but I think it is a 0. I'm also fairly sure the first set of numbers is correct. The middle set was a little harder to read but I am fairly sure about that. Below those numbers it looks like there used to be some sort of decal and the only numbers I could pull off of it is 1836.

Does this help anyone here?


11-14-2012, 08:07 PM
130202 0015-01 76091010

Okay I verified these numbers, but searching on the Briggs site does not locate the motor but based on the data I and tell that this is:

13 cubic inch motor
0 Basic design
2 Horizontal shaft
0 Plain bearing/DU non flange mount
2 Rewind Starter

The second series 0015-01 identifies engine mechanical parts, color, decals, governed speed and original equipment manufacture.

The last series shows me that it was
73 - Manufactured 1973
09 - Month of Sep
10 - On the tenth day
10 - Some number that identifies the plant or assembly line


Peter Malcolm Jardine
11-14-2012, 08:18 PM
This thread has been blowing some cobwebs out of my brain and I just remembered that my brother and I made a homemade go-cart when we were kids that had a B&S engine with a kick starter on it, kind of like this.

That was a washing machine motor... before the grid was completed, rural areas had gas powered washers. You stepped on the pedal to start the motor which was underneath the washer. There was a corrugated exhaust hose you stuck out the window.

11-14-2012, 08:38 PM
Chad, for parts go to partstree.com.