View Full Version : 25' Lyman Trailer
04-19-2012, 10:37 AM
I've got this beast of a trailer that came with my boat. It's been sitting at the marina yard for the last two years because we have simply blocked the boat off instead of putting in on the trailer so that we could do the bottom work a lot easier.
Long story short. I want to rejuvenate this trailer. My question is; does anyone have dimensions/specs for how the bunks should be positioned for a 25' Lyman? There are bunks already on the trailer but they are old and bent. They were never the "fixed" type, they are bolted to the frame so that they can move a little.
What I want to do is strip the trailer and get fixed bunks onto the trailer so that they are rigid and stiff with no movement.
As questioned above, does anyone have specs and or recommendations as to how to go about this the best way?
I have attached a few links to images of the trailer with the boat on it. IF need be I can snap a couple of photos of the trailer this weekend when I'm at the marina if it makes it easier to determine what to do.
I have 3 weeks to get the trailer out of the yard otherwise the guy is going to start charging me for storage! I told him to just pretend the boat is ON the trailer! Bah it was a short laugh!
See images below:
This link is will take you to images of the whole project from 2 years ago, (for browsing purposes)
04-19-2012, 11:02 AM
Contact "Doc Lyman" here! http://www.lymanboat.com/
If it were mine, .... I think I'd go with something simiar to what you have, AND add some additional ones directly under the engine stringers. I would use the new ones under the stringers as the actual load bearing ones (supporting the boat at its stiffest & strongest point), and then use the 'existing ones' (upgraded & improved) to basically just supoert the hull to heep her from falling/tipping over.
04-19-2012, 05:01 PM
I would put 100% of the weight on the keel. spread out fore n aft.That includes engine bearers.
These boats almost ALL suffer from bad bunking and 'specially rollering.
The ONLY purpose or the side support is to prevent her from rolling.
Looking at your two years worth of pics, I do not see if you checked the bottom for hook. It does not look like you did much of anything to the bottom. Is she running OK at 30 mph?
04-19-2012, 06:23 PM
It's not 2 years worth of work there, I guess I stated that the wrong way. 2 years ago; what you see there was done in a few months. After the boat went into the water I had simply blocked her off instead of putting her on the trailer. I never liked how she sat on the bunks! I do not want rollers on the trailer whatsoever, not a fan of them!
In regards to what you mention about hook, I'm not completely sure what you mean? She planes out great, runs at about 25mph comfortably.
Your are correct though, I did not do much to the bottom other than thoroughly inspect each lap and fastener and the integrity of each plank!
She has a strong hull below the waterline so there was no need to get crazy and re-invent the wheel!
04-19-2012, 07:07 PM
Okey Dokey, If you are happy with 25 and she is running smoothly, you are good to go I recon.
"Hook", or , dents in the bottom, can cause some very hinky behavior. Steering over to one side with a lotta pull, right up to forcing the bow under.Or requiring a bunch of aftermarket crap to make her feel normal. Trim tabs, doelfins, trimming forward, stuff like that.
04-24-2012, 09:53 PM
No offense to Wizbang, but the weight of a Lyman should ABSOLUTELY NOT be supported on the keel. The trailer for my 24' Lyman was made by Loadmaster in Port Clinton, OH they specialize in Lyman Trailers. You could try giving them a call and see if they will offer any advice. They may or may not since they are in the business of selling trailers. I can tell you how my trailer is set up though which will give you a good idea where to start.
From just forward of the engine back to the transom there are two sets of bunks. One set is right under the stringers, one set is under the turn of the bilge. Forward of the engine there is one set, under the engine stringers. The only place where the keel is supported is right under the knee with a V-block about 10 inches long. The block is supported at one point on a fulcrum so it can pivot somewhat to match the angle of the knee. Let me know if you would like pictures, I may be able to find a shot of the trailer sans boat.
In short, no rollers, weight on the stringers and absolutely not on the keel unless you like cracked ribs and a crooked keel.
04-24-2012, 09:59 PM
I found this on Loadmaster's website, it is a gallery of trailers they have made for wood boats. Have a look and you will get an idea what I am talking about.
04-25-2012, 07:45 AM
No offense taken Mike
I can see a Chris Craft , double planked bottom with sawn frames , on bilge bunks, but for the life of me I cannot see a Lyman ( or Thompson, Pennyan, etc) not being on the keel.
These boats are not strong or tough. Tiny steamed frames and lapstrake planks, I see them over and over bent on the bottom.
When I say 100% on the keel, I mean also 100% OF the keel , not just a spot or two.
04-26-2012, 01:02 AM
I suppose it can work either way as long as proper support is provided. I have seen too often, including on my own boat, a hooked keel caused by a yard blocking the boat like it were fiberglass, with blocks in just a few places under the keel and jack stands under the bilges only to stabilize. My reasoning on supporting the engine stringers is that the heaviest pieces of equipment (engine, transmission, fuel tank) sits on the stringers, and with bunks under the stringers you are supporting it directly rather than transferring that load through the frames and onto the keel. Also if the boat is to go down the road on the trailer, having the boat supported along the length and width of the bottom, with support placed under the strong points, the boat is being supported more similarly to being buoyed up by water than if all of the strain were taken on the keel. I think with any arrangement it is most important that there is enough support along the length of the boat so that no point loads are applied. In addition, with bunks placed under the stringers and bottom planking it is important that they extend all the way to, and preferably just past the transom to ensure that no part of the boat is cantilevered out past the support which can cause damage and deformation to the hull.
04-26-2012, 04:29 AM
Yes, You are right.
In my head I was seeing mostly outboard boats, not inboard.
Than you Mike. You explained my thinking and suggestion as well.
05-04-2012, 10:39 AM
Thanks for the info and the explanation! Seeing as how my boat is blocked at the yard I'm going to have to take a step back to see what the keel looks like. Last I checked it was fine. Either way something that I can easily overlook. Thanks again for the info!
05-04-2012, 10:42 AM
Forgot to ask actually; Mike can you take a photo of the V-Block you are referring to on your trailer?
05-04-2012, 10:45 AM
Never mind I see this Vblock now!
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