View Full Version : varnish and paint for my Cold-molded hull?
petmac
04-01-2012, 07:56 PM
I could use some help with this part of the project. i would like to get a few peoples opinions as to what i should be laying/rolling on my desired bright wood sections of the boat. i am aprihensive to go the epoxy route due to the fact that the boat has a great amount of flex and movement. besides the dash and decking to support the front and rear transum braces, there is no real frame to stop the hull from movement...
i don't want to have the bright wood, or any of the painted finish work to develop fractures that will lead to cracking and exposed wood.
any suggestions would be helpful, thanks.
pete
petmac
04-01-2012, 08:00 PM
forgot this. Here it is, so you have an idea.
http://1955whirlwindrestoration.blogspot.com/
long live the whirlwind!
wizbang 13
04-01-2012, 09:53 PM
I think your boat is hot molded, not cold molded.
Anyway, Pour some epoxy out on a piece of wax paper and leave it for weeks ( or years) and see how flexible it is. It flexes more than wood.
Or, maybe put a layer of glass on, canoe style,(epoxy) ,it can be made invisible. maybe the inside only.
I am not sure, just thinking aloud. My feelings are not strong on this. But I don't think cracking from flexing is a problem.
Rare boat, one feels the burden of keeping authenticity.
Gib Etheridge
04-02-2012, 12:14 AM
The most flexible finish that I know of is good old oil based spar varnish. Spars flex quite a bit. The best primer that I know of for any varnish is CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer).
petmac
04-03-2012, 08:12 PM
Rare boat, one feels the burden of keeping authenticity.
you said it.
petmac
04-03-2012, 08:15 PM
The most flexible finish that I know of is good old oil based spar varnish. Spars flex quite a bit. The best primer that I know of for any varnish is CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer).
Yeah i just go PM'ed with the same info thank.
And thanks to you few that replied, i will start my research this weekend.
pete
DavidS
04-06-2012, 08:03 AM
In the build instructions for the Rascal runabout, it calls for first sealing the wood with Interlux 1026 wood sealer. I don't know for sure the chemical make-up of that but it was like a very thin varnish or epoxy (went on like water). If you need the specs on that then let me know.
After two coats of that, then keep applying varnish until you get tired of applying varnish. Epifanes makes a product with which you can apply more coats without sanding in-between.
Good luck,
Dave
http://home.mindspring.com/~davidshively/rascal-sun.jpg
chuckt
04-06-2012, 09:14 AM
BTW--Try PB Blaster on that stuck wheel. I've been quite amazed at how well it works.
JimConlin
04-06-2012, 09:38 AM
I'd use a conventional varnish system, starting with a sealer like Pettit 2018 or Interlux 1026 followed by filler stain followed by a conventional yacht varnish.
petmac
04-09-2012, 07:23 PM
BTW--Try PB Blaster on that stuck wheel. I've been quite amazed at how well it works.
<img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ashIFMviRMg/TtwF37jHP3I/AAAAAAAAAD4/AS4YcmI-EJ4/s1600/SDC15401.JPG" />
Already pulled it off and refinished it. Hope to make the boat in the same cream color as the wheel.
petmac
04-09-2012, 07:29 PM
After two coats of that, then keep applying varnish until you get tired of applying varnish
http://home.mindspring.com/~davidshively/rascal-sun.jpg
is that your build, regarless it's a nice little runabout.
petmac
04-09-2012, 07:30 PM
I'd use a conventional varnish system, starting with a sealer like Pettit 2018 or Interlux 1026 followed by filler stain followed by a conventional yacht varnish.
yeah going with the Inerlux 1026.
DavidS
04-09-2012, 09:24 PM
Yes, finished as above, two coats of the 1026 and then a lot of varnish. I also used a gel stain before the wood sealer.
Good luck
dave
Howdy! Nice work on the Whirlwind...I have two of them:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/easytigermodels/?saved=1
There should be no movement of the hull at all...I think once you replace the deck and gunnels you will get the stiffness back...if not, then I think you have real problems with the integrity of the glued-on layers of wood, a real problem.
I know where there is another hull, it's not in perfect shape, there is a hole in the bottom rear, but it actually looks better than yours...and it's on the Delaware, near the NY border...I think it could be had for almost nothing, or nothing. I can ask for you if you are interested. It is on a trailer, but it has no hardware. It does have the stern trim pieces, a nice chrome steering column, and the whirlwind logo on the dash. Picture is here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/easytigermodels/6950017684/in/photostream
As far as finish goes, I did my 57 Whirlwind in Cabot Spar Varnish from Lowe's.
Glad to help you in any way I can, check out the restoration I did on the 57, about to start on a 59...
go whirlwind!
petmac
04-22-2012, 06:54 PM
damn Easy: I thought through my research that these things are few and far between. but to know of your whirlwinds right in my neck of the woods is quite nice. I would love to take a look at your restorations for ideas and more motivation. Yea check what he wants for that other whirlwind hull. I will be PMing you with a few questions in the future for sure though. Thanks.
pete
It would be peanuts, I am sure. It belongs to a fellow who passed away, and the stuff has been sitting in his yard for five years. I was just there this weekend...one thing is has is a very decent trailer, which would probably really help your cause.
You can PM me and get the number of the guy who is handling the sales of the estate, I don't want to put that online...I did mention to him when I saw him last weekend that you might be calling, you can work it out between the two of you. Also...I don't know if you have a motor, but there are many, many, motors there, you could get a real bargain.
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