View Full Version : Watertight, removable seat box questions

01-24-2012, 10:11 PM
This is the seat box for my Ocean Pointer center console. Before I finish it off, I'm looking for some ideas. Two issues:

#1) I want to use it for storage and keep things dry inside it (it does have a bottom inside). My plan was to add 1/4" x 1/4" white oak strips on the bottom of the seat top which would be outside of the box and thus act as a drip edge and not allow water to make its way into the box. With this I would simply lift off the top to get at the contents stored inside. Problem is with rough seas, or trailering, I don't want the top to fly off and become a hazard. I thought of hinging it and using some kind of gasket material, but don't know what would be suitable (bead of silicone, 5200...).

It's made of 1/2" meranti ply and the top is 7/8" walnut. So, what can I do to make this water proof?

#2) I want this seat box to be securely fastened to the boat when it is in the boat, yet I want to be able to remove it without there being any protruding hardware on the cockpit sole to trip on or any holes through the cockpit sole which would allow water into the bilge. Ideas?




03-10-2012, 02:53 AM
Really? Nothing? I thought this would be an easy one...

Capt Zatarra
03-10-2012, 03:49 AM
I think the problem for #2 is "no protruding hardware or holes" Unless you have something like a pole or a plank running from gunnel to gunnel to secure it in place, I'm stumped. On the problem #1 of holding the lid down, take a look at these magnets http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_128&products_id=1044 these require 28 of pull or lifting force, and if that is not enough to hold your lid on..... this one requires 80 pounds of lifting force!! http://www.magnet4less.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_128&products_id=1043 Just remember to lift with your legs and not your back! Now that I think about it you might be able to secure the box to the deck with these too! By glassing a piece of steal flush in the sole with the magnets mounted to the bottom of the box. One on each corner 80x4=320lbs of lifting force!!! You would have to give it a good lateral shove before you could lift it out of the boat. (it is easier to slide a magnet laterally off it's attached surface then pull it away.)
And that's all ah got ta say about that. Capt. Z.

George Ray
03-10-2012, 07:37 AM
Be careful about the way the top opens. If the hinges are on the after edge and you forget to latch the lid shut, then when the top bounces and opens underway the wind can/will fling the top open/back, either straining/breaking the hinges or toppling the box.

03-10-2012, 08:47 AM





Usually a good idea to have the hardware picked out before the build begins.

03-10-2012, 09:30 AM
I'd go with those recessed rings. Then just lash the box down.
Ditto on a latching mechanism so the top is locked closed. A hasp that could take a padlock, for example.
And, please, ease those edges and round those corners as much as you can. People will be banging their legs on it.

03-10-2012, 11:49 AM
Do some serious thinking about how you'll handle the box and lid when actively pounding through the swell and need to get your jacket or camera out of the box. If unhinged, you'll have a lovely chunk o' walnut slamming around in the boat, or have guests dropping it on their feet.

You may be able to drill holes near the existing feet and lash the box down with line to rings or holes in the boat frames / floors. Otherwise the recessed rings seem best.

As for keeping it waterproof, you've got the usual options of paint and/or varnish -- or epoxy with paint and/or varnish over it. Personally I'd recommend a water-based stain (if you want to stain the ply) with epoxy and varnish to match the boat's finish. You could use a single layer of very thin fiberglass cloth over the sides and even the top to give additional protection if you anticipate hard use -- you know how level surfaces will collect gear, food and drink, tools, etc.

Gib Etheridge
03-10-2012, 12:58 PM
I would use 2, or even 4, of Terry's top hardware fastened to the sole, one under each end of the box, or one in each corner, and a stainless bolt through the bottom of the box from the inside to locate and hold the box in place. You may need to place reinforcement as necessary. When the box is removed you will need to plug the holes with the threaded plugs shown. Carry extra bolts and plugs.

I doubt that the top will ever blow away when you're sitting on it, so I wouldn't worry about that, but oak strips, 2 longitudinal on the inside, maybe 3/4" X 1" on edge, would keep the cover positioned.

You can keep the water out by sewing up a seat cushion with overlapping flaps to act as drip edges. Sunbrella would work just fine, and if you use closed cell foam it will make good emergency floatation. The cushion and the top itself could be held down with velcro on the underside of the flaps. The cushion will also protect the top from the sun, which may cause it to warp otherwise.

Fancy rope sea chest handles would make carrying the box much easier, and they would provide attachment points for a strap to lash down the cover when trailering.

Gib Etheridge
03-10-2012, 01:23 PM
Thinking about those stainless bolts, they could work loose. If you were to use eye bolts you could run a cord or a bar between any 2 of them to prevent that.

03-10-2012, 10:02 PM
S'pose you built some corner chocks to fit the inside corners of the box's feet. Fasten and bed the chocks securely. Screw through the box feet into the chocks.

For the top, residential weather stripping lasts for a while, and is cheap and quick to replace every three or so years. I'd hinge the box, incorporate a strut or straps so it doesn't open far enough to stress the hinge fasteners and latch it with a cam/lever type latch like this one. It puts a tad of down pressure on the lid when secure--and you can lock it if need be,



03-11-2012, 03:13 AM
Okay, some good responses.

I like the magnet idea, but I may have to mount my compass up by the stem and may have trouble getting the boat off the trailer... I'd prefer a more 'mechanical' means of keeping the seat box in place in the event it needs to act as a brace when encountering heavier seas or obnoxious boat wakes. But, these magnets look real cool, so I'm gonna buy a couple and find a use for them, thanks.

Point taken with the hinge location. I plan to use a length of piano hinge and will put it along the forward edge for sure, with a locking hasp on the aft edge.

Already rounded the corners and eased all the edges around the seat top and the corners of the base ( I took the picture before finishing it ). I've epoxy coated it and will paint the base white and varnish the top and add wooden handles to the sides as well.

I like this idea: http://www.marinerparts.com/images/detailed/8/product_detailed_image_16898_4022.jpg Wouldn't be too much of a hassle to unscrew and remove the seat, and by recessing these into the sole, no toe jamming hazard... By the way, I prefer not to select hardware first; takes away the challenge. I tend to work harder, not smarter:rolleyes:.

Weather stripping the top edge of the base sounds like the way to go. I'll have to see what the local Lowe's has that looks worthy.

Just found this in the latest Defender catalog. Must have breezed right over it the first three times I perused the catalog. It's now on my shopping list for later this month when they have their annual warehouse sale - thanks! http://assets.seattlepub.com:8020/SuperContainer/RawData/Sea-Dog/Photos/5671?height=380&width=380

Still open to other ideas as far as securing the whole seat/box to the sole with the option to remove it if need be.


03-11-2012, 07:55 PM
If you want good prices, check out this place (http://www.marinepartdepot.com/dring.html). Not an endorsement - all I know is that the prices are more than reasonable.