How far between thwart and oarlocks?

[Tony_C]

Nearly done with my build.
A quick question: How far should there be between the thwart and the position of the oarlocks.
Here's the nice fittings I got from Duckworks just sitting in approximate position:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ocIngACV8iY/Tx5epFGpP9I/AAAAAAAAAMs/I4pvOZd9eJ0/s912/DSC_0145%20%282%29%20%28Medium%29.jpg

There'll be two possible rowing positions as shown.
Some measurements:
Distance between oarlocks: exactly 5'
Width of thwarts: 12"
Distance from aft edge of thwarts to the half frame in the piccy: 17"
Height of gunwale above the waterline: 16.5"
Length of oars: 8' 6"
My height: 6' 2"

Note that this ain't no row boat. The oars are basically for emergency use and have to be that short to fit in the boat.

[Thad]

Gerald Smith said to me that some say 12" from the edge of the thwart, some say 15" from the center of the thwart. The thwart should be 6" below the rail.

[Tom Jackson]

You might be well advised to hand-clamp the rowlocks in position, get in the boat with the oars you intend to use, and experiment with the location until it feels right to you.

[orbb]

Getting Started in Boats, volume 19, is all about oars, oar locks and rowing. It has information on placement of the oar locks. It is available from the WoodenBoat Store as a digital download.

[Lewisboater]

Bend your elbow so that your upper arm is vertical along the side of your body and the forearm is horizontal then make a fist with your hand like you are gripping an oar. The distance from your elbow to the your knuckle line will be within 1" of where it will be most comfortable. Position your body on the thwart where you will be doing the rowing and transfer that measurement to the shear to locate your oarlocks. Clamp them temporarily then try them out and nudge them from there.

[MiddleAgesMan]

Since you won't be entering any rowing races I'd say mount the oarlocks at 11 or 12 inches behind the rear edges of the thwarts. Anything in that range will work just fine.

[Gerarddm]

On my Lincolnville Salmon Wherry plans Walt Simmons advocates 11.5".

[htom]

Nominally, about twelve inches from the edge of the thwart. Depending on your body (arm length and seating height, primarily) an inch or two more (or less) may be better. Clamps and trials are definitely in order. If you're very tall and long armed, a pair, one pair comfortable for you, the other for smaller sized folk, might be in order, separated by three or four inches. (One pair at, say, 11", the other at 14".)

[Tony_C]

Thanks for all those prompt answers.

I started at 12" behind the aft edge and did some testing.

To cater for my gorilla arms I gave the forward rowing position 13" and the middle position the standard 12".
The wide thwarts means one can fine tune for comfort by shifting ones backside fore and aft.
The rails are actually 8" above the thwarts which works ok for my height but would be harder for others. There's always a cushion I guess but the chances of the 5'3" first mate wanting to row are pretty low.

They're screwed on now so no going back - will be getting it wet this weekend - woo hoo!

[JayInOz]

And the vertically challenged, non rowing first mate will of course be providing us with launch photos? Hmmm? :) JayInOz

[Breakaway]

I started with the "7/11" advice often given. ( thwart 7" below/ locks 11" from aft edge of thwart.) I clamped them and used the boat.Then finalized the position. I cant even remember the exact dimension now and the boat is upside down under cover currently. But clamp and trial and you'll be fine.

kevin

[Tony_C]

Launch and rowing pics are on the main thread:
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?133195-Dinghy-1-0-Build&p=3283064#post3283064

The oarlocks position worked fine. Though the 8" height of the rails above the thwart feels higher than would be ideal - the 6" recommended above would be better.
But its very easily driven so overall a better rower than I expected. Yet to test it fully loaded of course.