oar lock sockets on penobescot 14

[lacorday]

Hello: I have been a long time lurker. This is my first time posting. I have been building my Penobescot 14 for the pasr 10 years! I did not plan for the build to take so long but life and death got in the way.this project is my first woodworking projectas such I am very proud of her! I am currently installing the cap rails and oar lock sockets. The problem is that the sockets I purchased from west marine are way fatter then the ones Arch Davis used on the prototype. I am afraid of drilling such large holes in the shear clamps in the four locations and weakening the structure.an other option would be to make blocks inboard of the rail....not sure how this would effect rowing? Will try to post pics. Thanks in advance for any help/ input. Rick.

[wizbang 13]

I dunno the exact construct of your boat, but usually the hole is between the clamp and the plank, the area occupied by the frame.
Take another year from your boat and learn to post photos here!

[Tom Hunter]

On my boat there are oak blocks screwed into the bottom of the rail to take the socket and spread the load. With the blocks the rail lasts 8 or 9 years before something gives and repairs are needed. Without it I think it would have lasted 8 or 9 minutes, but I have never run a test.

You can see the blocks of the forward two rowing stations in this photo:

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4042/5128956113_ebc9d7e604_b.jpg

You may want to look closely at the way the lights and trailer are set up as well, hopefully you will be on the road and in the water soon.

[Chip-skiff]

nThis photo is a link to the Arch Davis website:

https://archdavisdesigns.com/wooden-boat-designs/wp-content/gallery/wooden-boats-designs-gallery/pic-6lg.jpg

It looks as if you might make the oarstand blocks a bit thicker inboard to accommodate the sockets. Or, since the cost of oarlock sockets is a small matter compared to the hours of work you've put into the boat, you could return them and get some that are a better fit for the design.

I bought some bronze sockets from Duckworks for less than $10 a pair. Good source for small boat stuff—

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/bronze.htm

[lacorday]

Thanks. Will check out Duckworks.

[Railmeat]

Rick,

I'm on year 10 of the Penobscot 14 myself, for the same reasons as you! I just finished up getting the seats and centerboard case in. Haven't gotten to the oarlocks yet, but I've noticed a set of bronze ones available in the WoodenBoat store under the "boat hardware" section. $38 a pair. Worth looking at.

Don

[CJ]

Rick:

As I recall, the plans called for the addition of an inboard oarlock mounting block, as you stated, inside the rail at each of the four oarlock locations, at least that's what I did. My only screw up was not mounting the hardware in the middle of the pad, I did what the plans stated instead - always bugged me that they weren't centered athwartship on the rail. Good luck and let's see some pics!

Now, let's hear some criticism for having 'pinned' my oars...

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/cjg0601/151.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh147/cjg0601/198.jpg

[almeyer]

nThis photo is a link to the Arch Davis website:

https://archdavisdesigns.com/wooden-boat-designs/wp-content/gallery/wooden-boats-designs-gallery/pic-6lg.jpg

It looks as if you might make the oarstand blocks a bit thicker inboard to accommodate the sockets. Or, since the cost of oarlock sockets is a small matter compared to the hours of work you've put into the boat, you could return them and get some that are a better fit for the design.

I bought some bronze sockets from Duckworks for less than $10 a pair. Good source for small boat stuff—

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/bronze.htm

Nice looking boat in that picture! (sorry)

That photo was soon after the boat was launched, about 7 years ago, so I've had time enough to find all my goofs, or at least things I wish I'd done different. Surprisingly, the list is not that long.
The material I used for the shear clamps had some bad spots - structurally okay, but looked bad when bright finished, so I added a 1/4" cap to the shear clamp. It matched the wood I used for the cap on top and the gunwales. In addition, you've got an pad mounted adjacent to the shear clamp, so you're not drilling a hole through very much of the clamp itself. I used ash for the pad, wanting a hardwood to take the stress of rowing, and it has not been an issue. The oarlock sockets I purchased require a 3/4" hole; if yours are larger then increase the size of the pad accordingly. The hole should be drilled offset as shown in the plan and photos - remember you've got a gunwale outside of the shear strake. Drill the hole in the center of the pad and you'll likely be drilling through the shearstrake, which will cause you a long session in the moaning chair.

+1 for the recommendation on Duckworks. Great people to work with.

And post some pictures of your boat! We'd all like to have a look.

Al

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1cf07b3127ccefee06b3be3bb00000030O00ActHLVi5bt2 IPbz4E/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1cf07b3127ccefee0e477221800000030O00ActHLVi5bt2 IPbz4E/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[lacorday]

CJ. Your boat looks awsome! I do not see that you had any choice but to mount the sockets inboard on the pad. If you drill the mortice on center you will weaken the shearclamp. The pinned oars look fine to me...... not sure of the pros and cons of the pins.thanks Rick.

[lacorday]

Hello Al: thanks for the reply. I do not want any moaning chair sessions! Lol. I love what you hav e done have done with your Wee Lass! How do you like the boats sailing characteristics? Do you think she will be suitable as a camp cruiser for two people? Will post pics after I scan them to a digital format. Spent some time milling sassafrass for the cap ra ils on sat. Planning on going with the gunter rig