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Simon Gignac
12-29-2000, 09:31 PM
OK, I know one thing it gone a be 20'x40'x16'
and it gone a have to fit nicely in my father backyard.But we can't find any plans or design ideas for it.Does anyone have intenet adress or books that could help us.

Tanks Simon

BrianCunningham
12-30-2000, 09:38 AM
Are you talking steel?

If so:
http://www.usmb.com
http://www.steelmasterbuildings.com
http://www.steelmasterusa.com
http://www.steelspan.com
http://www.pioneersteel.com

rbgarr
12-31-2000, 09:03 AM
Ken Textor wrote an article that appeared in 'Maine Boats and Harbors" magazine about building a wood boathouse on his property that approximated those sizes. A friend of mine built a very substantial and inexpensive wood framed shed about that size from a Canadian kit maker, but you don't say where you are, so I can't tell if that info is useful for you. Let me know by direct email if you want to know more about the supplier and I'll try to get the name of the company for you.

Andreas Jordahl Rhude
12-31-2000, 11:04 AM
How about wood framing such as glued laminated timber! www.aitc-glulam.org (http://www.aitc-glulam.org) or www.sentinelstructures.com (http://www.sentinelstructures.com)

abe
12-31-2000, 01:29 PM
Look at an old forum thread for ideas and discussion.
http://media4.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001634.html

Happy New Year to All

Simon Gignac
12-31-2000, 02:53 PM
Tanks to all of you for yours interesting ideas this realy help us.I think we are more interesting in a wood type of construction not only because of it look but we want to do it ourself.Does any of you have seen a boat shed in a western barn style? Well, that would look prety in are backyard!

Any ways happy new year to all of you and tanks again Simon

Ross Faneuf
12-31-2000, 05:52 PM
My home-built boatshed is 41L x 18W x 16H (clearance), also home designed. I'll try to find and post a few photos of construction if you're interested. Basic construction is 2x6 posts joined with glued gussets to 2x8 rafters and a 2x6 cross tie; wall height is 10' but clearance at cross tie is 16'. This is a permanent building, unheated, dirt floor. With a boat in it.

Simon Gignac
01-02-2001, 05:40 PM
Ross, that look realy interesting I would love to see some pictures.

Simon

Ross Faneuf
01-04-2001, 11:58 AM
I'll post some pictures over the weekend; I'm currently at my away job, and the pictures aren't accessible.

tburris
01-04-2001, 02:57 PM
I built my addition 24'x48'x16' high all 2x6 framming with steel siding. I also took it one step further and added 1 1/4 inch tongue and grove floor. I went to my local library and extention office for plans of other similar buildings and then designed my own. Except for variances local building codes are very forgiving for home builders. Basically I stick framed the whole thing which if you read a about it and do some research you will find it very easy and the siding can be order from your local hardware store in any color.

Ross Faneuf
01-06-2001, 11:24 AM
I've posted 4 photos of the boat shed on PhotoPoint. Here's the URL for album - if this works OK as a link, then I won't put the individual photo URLs here, so you won't have to wait out a 100K download http://media4.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/smile.gif
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1438968&a=10791527

Photo 1 shows me erecting the trusses. You can get a pretty good idea how they're built from the photo. The posts are 2x6 11'; the rafters are 2x8; the collar tie is 2x6; there's a little 2x4 center brace. The gussets are 5/8 roof deck ply, glued with construction adhesive and nailed on with an air nailer. I did each side (post+rafter) then assembled them into the whole truss. I glued/nailed one center gusset, then jacked up the truss enough to do the second gusset from underneath (I did just about all the work single handed).

The diagonal braces are temporary, coming off once the frame was well braced.

The whole build is sitting on 6x8 PT posts, with a sill structure consisting of 2x12 PT bolted to the posts with a 2x8 PT plate screwed down to it.

Photo 2 just shows all the trusses erected. The T111 panels are in place on the sides, and the temporary diagonal bracing is about to come off. If you look carefully, you can see the ladder is leaning against the 2x8 longitutinal running the length of the truss top, and can see the 2x8 girt running down each side underneath the rafter ends (see below).

Photo 3 shows the boat shed nearing completion. A lot of structure which is important isn't visible here, and I didn't find a photo, so I'll describe. (1) there is a 2x8 girt down each side at the top (outside) of the posts. There is a similar 2x8 on each side of the 2x4 central brace in the triangular space at the top of the truss. This element is strong enough to hoist the engine or similar weights - you could probably hoist 1/2 ton or so from it.

Siding is T111, 4'x9' panels. The back end has a stud wall 2x6 with T111 over. The door opening is 14' wide and 15' high. The doors are double panel, hinged in the middle (see photo 4).

Roof system is as follows. There are diagonal braces at each end let into the rafters. 2x4 longitudinals spaced 24" carry the Ondura roofing. You can see the translucent fiberglass panels, of which I used as many as I could fit in. They give plenty of light in daylight. There is a similar light strip just under the soffit, which is not yet paneled in photo 3. The roof is trimmed off similar to house construction for appearance sake.

Photo 4 was taken as the boat hauler arrived to take 'Ceol Mor' to be launched. It gives you a good idea of the size and construction of the doors. Note there is over 16' clearance from the collar ties to the ground. 'Ceol Mor' is about 11' off the ground at the deck edge, and you can see that everything just fits. There's only a few inches of clearance for the stanchions when she is being hauled, but it all works.

One of the design constraints was that the building be no larger than necessary for the boat. My wife particularly didn't want a huge building looming over the house; and I didn't either. One of the main reasons for using trusses like this is that the whole building is about 5' lower than it would be if I'd used simple stud wall framing with 16' posts. It's also probably a good deal stronger - it's at least a lot stiffer. If I were doing it again, I'd make it 20' wide instead of 18', but I was hoping to recycle some stuff from an earlier 18' shed. Anyway, the shed works just fine for 'Ceol Mor'.

[This message has been edited by Ross Faneuf (edited 01-06-2001).]

abe
01-07-2001, 08:40 AM
Thanks for sharing your building photos Ross.

Looks like you used a good common sense yankee approach and fit the barn around the boat. Like your method of framing and should stand up to the weather for decades.

Around these parts, "snob" zoning limits the size of what one can build. So you build the shop and then select a boat that will fit!

[This message has been edited by abe (edited 01-07-2001).]

SailBoatDude
01-07-2001, 12:25 PM
I built a shed some years ago that's still standing, though my agreement with the land owner was to remove the temporary building after the boat was launched. It was a pole barn. I used small diameter telephone poles in the corners, and three down each side. Doubled 2x12's made up the headers and homebuilt peaked trusses made up the roof framing on 24" centers. The sheathing was conventional on the roof, with ply and tin, though I could have use stringers and tin. The ply walls hung on lags from the header with legs of 2x4's at the seams and centerline of each panel, spiked into a PT 2x6 footer. The idea was to be able to remove the side walls easily and knock down the whole affair quickly. Heating wasn't an issue in Florida, but ventilation was as heat built up quickly in the summer. A chicken coop fan in the gable removed most of the heat and a lot of dust judging by the ground outside. The code enforcement guys will not like it, but I was pretty remote and had power and water on site already. Some guy is now renting it for a shop of some sort and he has installed a firmer footer, insulation, sky lights, firmer stud arrangements and electric to suit his needs. It kept the rain off and survived two hurcaines (lost some tin and a bit of water penetration)

Alan D. Hyde
01-08-2001, 10:24 AM
Ross-------

Your building looks well-constucted and functional, but it is 'Ceol Mor' that really draws one's eyes.

I am confident that I am not the only Forum participant who would like to see more of her.

She's a beauty.

Alan

Ross Faneuf
01-08-2001, 02:37 PM
Alan - I posted a topic in 'Miscellaneous' pointing to an album of 'Ceol Mor' pics.