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Concordia..41
01-04-2003, 06:51 PM
Had the idea for a while now so yesterday I constructed a hydration chamber to try and put moisture back into the oak before we steam it. We have tried soaking it but that did not seem to help a whole lot.

Today I cut and planed the oak for the next frame. I then put the wood in the chamber and charged it with water. The oak read 8% on the moisture meter when it went in. I’ll give it a couple of days and then take it out and read the moisture again. If it works and the oak bends easier I will post the results.

Dave

- Pictures at 11 ;)

- M

[ 01-04-2003, 07:55 PM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]

lumberdude
01-04-2003, 06:56 PM
Dave, tell us more about the hydration chamber. What sort of design did you use?

Kory

ken mcclure
01-04-2003, 07:00 PM
Jeez, Margo. You're in Florida. Humidity is usually what - 115%? Can't you just lay the oak outside? :D

Nicholas Carey
01-06-2003, 07:17 PM
We usually use a lake :D

Concordia..41
01-06-2003, 08:10 PM
I thought the NW was a lake tongue.gif

Seriously, I'll get some pictures tomorrow. I saw the gizmo for the first time today and the light was already getting bad.

Of course, we've yet to see how it works, but Dave's theory is that by if they can infuse pressure treated lumber with chemicals, he can infuse this white oak with moisture. I know there's probably hypothetical, theoritical, chemical, and botanical reasons why not, but the bumble bee can't fly either.

And Ken, we let your dig slide by 'cause Dave was too busy epoxying seat belts to the commode. :D

Cheers guys!

- M

[ 01-06-2003, 09:12 PM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]

NormMessinger
01-06-2003, 08:15 PM
WOW! I'd like to have that recipe.

RGM
01-06-2003, 10:42 PM
As Nicholas stated, up here we use a lake or some other handy body of water. Tie weights to your bending stock and sink it for a few days to a week. You don't have to go very deep. Nothing like a little natural water pressure to add some moisture back into wood. Yeah, I know, it's not very scientific, but it works. Sounds like you are working with kiln dried stock (8%), is that right? Good luck and have fun.

Ed Harrow
01-07-2003, 07:21 AM
Damn but I hate to refute you Margo, "but the bumble bee can't fly either" but it since been discovered that they can, indeed fly. One of those "We used to think but know we know." deals good old Dr Senghas would tell me... smile.gif I can't however, cite the source in the literature, you'll just have to take it from me...

Put that sucker in a can with a hose fitting on it, attach a hose, fill it with water and leave the water turned on (to pressurize the can) and you should be in good shape. I wonder what effect the addition of soap would have, seems it should be good and would help speed the process.

Rodger, I've been wondering where you've been hiding.

Allen Foote
01-07-2003, 11:23 AM
This is interesting.....seasoned and stable dry wood "gone bad" :D seriously, I hope this works for you.

Concordia..41
01-10-2003, 08:03 PM
Hydration chamber worked really well. Much better than just soaking and a lot quicker. Cut one of the pieces of oak and tested with the moisture meter, it went off scale. Steamed the oak and it was a lot more flexible and we seemed to have more working time to get it in and wedged down.

Dave

Ed Harrow
01-10-2003, 10:19 PM
So you going to keep this thing a secret and just tantalize us with the results? smile.gif

Concordia..41
01-13-2003, 08:41 AM
Allright dagnabit, everyone else is so organized, I'm looking bad (worse) (whatever). I never did get down there when the light was right, so this'll have to do.

http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/Pic/HCFullviewmed.jpg

Recipe for a hydration chamber:

4" x 10' heavy wall PVC pipe
4" cap drilled and tapped for ½" pipe
1/8" pipe thread on side
1/2" fill valve and hose connection
1/8" vent valve and pressure gauge connection
4" PVC coupling - cut off one end leaving 1" for backing bolts
4" expanding test plug

More at:

Hydration Chamber (http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/hydrationchamber.htm)