Whillyboat question

[Greg H]

Is there enough clearance for the tiller, if I leave the stern stem standing a bit proud (an inch, half inch?) The plans show it cut flush, but........ I can't leave well enough alone. ;)

Thanks

[NormMessinger]

Um, if you like the looks of the stem standing proud why not do that and adjust the rudder dimensions enough to raise the tiller. IF there is a problem when you get to that stage.

--Norm

[Meerkat]

Pictures of the Willy Boat on the Duckflat Wooden Boats - Whilly Boat (http://www.duckflatwoodenboats.com/dfwbphp/boatINDEX.php?ID=1027) website show something standing proud of the rudder back there, but it looks like an extension of the rudder or the rudder cheeks. Hard to tell with such small pics though. Looking at the profile view under "construction notes", it looks like it's an extension of the rudder that's meant to match the proud standing stem at the bow.

[Greg H]

Er, uh you're right Norm. I did not see the cricket at my feet.
But then I've been blonde from birth. smile.gif
kat, yeah the picts are too small. I don't (I think) like the look of that little square of oak stem in the middle of the cherry breasthook, that would result if I cut it flush. A little relief will do it though.

[ 09-19-2002, 10:52 AM: Message edited by: Greg H. ]

[Bruce Taylor]

When I was building Piccolo, I cut a sort of Viking figurehead into the stem (not a dragon...a cantankerous bird). As I came near to finishing the boat, I got tired of it. One day, that bird looked at me sideways when I happened to have a Japanese saw in my hand. Off with its head!

[Meerkat]

Careful there Bruce. If you're not careful, you'll end up using flamingos for mallets and hedgehogs for balls to play croquet and ordering rambunctious guinia pigs be supressed ;)

($.10 to anyone who can identify the source of that smile.gif )

[Meerkat]

Greg H. Too bad it's not the good old (bad old) days. Back then you probably could have had the paid crew stroll into ye olde yot boatique and pick up an elegant little bronze star to cap that stem. Hmmm, I wonder if you still can - at least in brass...

I recently saw metal stars offerred for bowsprit ornaments somewhere (WB store?).

[ 09-19-2002, 12:54 PM: Message edited by: meerkat ]

[John of Phoenix]

Originally posted by meerkat:
Careful there Bruce. If you're not careful, you'll end up using flamingos for mallets and hedgehogs for balls to play croquet and ordering rambunctious guinia pigs be supressed ;)

($.10 to anyone who can identify the source of that smile.gif )Brings up a vision of Alice in Wonderland.

Right?

[Meerkat]

JohnT yup, it's Alice. There's a $.50 handling charge to redeem your prize (This offer void where prohibited. YMMV. No sales to persons under 18 years of age. No small animals where harmed in making this product.)

:cool:

[John of Phoenix]

This is wonderful!! I've never won anything EVER before!! I'm going out to buy a lottery ticket, right now. I'm on a roll. I'm on a roll. :D

[casem]

Hi Greg, I did the kick up rudder and its not the tiller that might hit a proud stem, its the rudder lines. You might want to look closely at the plans.

[Meerkat]

Um, not to hijack this thread or anything, but I've posted more questions etc. over in Whilly Boat Deja Vu All Over Again...

Why more then one line for a kickup rudder? Poor tiller is going to get pretty busy with lines with a kickup rudder control and a Huntington Helm Impeader. Kind of like the boat version of a japanese car turn signal/wiper/light/cruise control stalk.

[ 09-19-2002, 02:11 PM: Message edited by: meerkat ]

[Greg H]

Bruce, at least you gave it a chance. I just did the simple horn like shape, that's on the bow of a lot of those Scandinavian boats.

Check this out:
http://www.stillwaterboats.com/sbviking.html

Oh yes, the lines. I'm going to need to have a close look at that. Since I'm doing a yawl rig, I'm going to do either a wishbone type tiller or a push-pull stick (must be a proper name for it) to get around the mizzen mast.

Kat, one line holds it down, one hauls it up. I think a lead plug could be fitted to keep the blade down, doing away with one line. I have another boat with the 2 line set up and it is a dance to get going from a beach launching. Hold the head to the wind, hop in, get the rudder down and cleeted to keep the head up, clear the main sheet that wants to wrap itself around your feet, get the dagger board down, sheet in and go.... :D

[Don Olney]

Greg,

Norm answered the question. You can adjust the height of the rudder for tiller clearance of the stem. You can also set the pitch on the top of the rudder cheeks for gunwale clearance. Below is a picture of the Ness Yawl rudder set up that may help. If you go to my Imagestation album and select photo # 17 and then click on the photo, you can get higher resolution than below.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid18/pb2a14f204acdd99e034bc737a26e5639/fdd10800.jpg

-Don

[Meerkat]

Don, please post a link to your imagestation! That tease shot of her stern is exciting! ;)

[Don Olney]

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4292011163

So, it looks like Imagestation now requires registration or log-in in order to view an album???

[Meerkat]

Don O - yeah Imagestation now requires registration just to view. Also worth noting is that if you post pics, they have a non-exclusive right to use them worldwide in any medium. Smacks of being a cheap way to build a photog portfolio for sale.

As for the boat - <faint> WOOF! That's the paint scheme and trim details I want for my Whilly Boat! I am going to build the semi-decked version for the storage and flotation and plan to put faux straight laid decking on over a plywood underlayment. Looks like you have done an absolutely supurb job on the Nessie! smile.gif

[Greg H]

She is beautiful, Don. Where do the rudder lines run after they leave the rudder head? Are they led around the wishbone tiller to the end?

[Don Olney]

Greg, Actually, the rudder uphaul and downhaul just hang over my mizzen partner. This works for me because I usually only use them twice on any given sail, once to lower after launching and then to raise after I've dropped the sails when coming in. If you notice, I have placed the brass tube cleats for the lines pretty far back on the tiller. This means that I have to stand up in order to get leverage to uncleat the lines. So far, this hasn't been a problem. So far. The plans showed the cleats located on the bend on the wishbone tiller. That is, on the farthest radius of the tiller from the mizzen. I didn't like the look of the lines this way. Too cluttered and no great improvement over cleating them aft and just letting them hang over the mizzen partner.

Putting lead in the rudder would be a good solution for getting rid of the downhaul.

Early in the summer, I pulled the centerboard and drilled three 3" holes and one 2" hole and poured about 10lbs of lead in them. It is perfect. In the water, the board goes down nicely, yet doesn't slam and it stays down.

-Don

[Meerkat]

mizzen partner... >click< !!

Don, you built the yawl version? Did you buy Michael Storer's add-on plans for the yawl WB?

I sure wish I could build my WB as a gaff or gunter yawl...

<later> Oops, you built a Nessie (slaps forehead)

<even later> oooh and open inwales too! How hard is that?

[ 09-28-2002, 01:51 AM: Message edited by: meerkat ]