Post your floorboard attachments

[John How]

I have a few ideas for attaching the floorboards on my skiff but am open to some new ones. I want an easy removal for cleaning and drying but I don't want them falling out either. The bottom is plywood but has some rocker and there will be one forward and one aft of the center frame. Hopefully one or two attachment point towards the middle of each floorboard will do. Looking forward to your pics

[Thorne]

Mine are simple but not necessarily recommended - just a #12 SB screw driven into cleats with the top end cut off and rounded a bit, so that it doesn't protrude through the floorboards. If properly supported they stay put just fine, but can bounce out of position during rough-road trailering. And of course they are dangerous if the floorboards are ever removed!

[Peerie Maa]

http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp164/peerie_maa/Idiot%20proof/straps026.jpg
They just sit there.

[Bob Smalser]

They just sit there.

Ditto.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677622.jpg

[Jlaup]

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5569511092_4d70d8ed31.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083746@N02/5569511092/)
Deck panels dry fitted (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083746@N02/5569511092/) by jlaupheimer (http://www.flickr.com/people/22083746@N02/), on Flickr

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5297/5513350290_7dd21fe3e7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083746@N02/5513350290/)
Turnbutton to hold bilge access floorboard in place (http://www.flickr.com/photos/22083746@N02/5513350290/) by jlaupheimer (http://www.flickr.com/people/22083746@N02/), on Flickr

[sailoar]

Check out post #354 in the Designs thread "James McMullen's Rowan." Very nice and clean.

Also, take a tip from the apparent master:

"Make a drop-in panel to cover the well and thus convert the seats into a huge platform for yoga, sleeping, or making love." - Reuel Parker, The Sharpie Book

Sharpie, indeed.

[Eddiebou]

This is a very timely post, as I will be fitting my floorboards this week. I was thinking about fastening the outermost boards (at the chine) down with surface mounted screws, then making small removeable panels, 1 on each side, fastened to cleats, that could be easily removed. The cleats under the panels would be left long enough to hook under the outer boards, eliminating the need for a turnbuckle etc. there.
There's nothing flat about what I'm attaching to, so I'm gonna break it up into at least 8 sections, maybe 1 more in the middle for bailing it out.
I think a metal turnbuckle, flush to the surface would be the most practacle thing in the long run.
Please keep the ideas coming.

[Peerie Maa]

This is a very timely post, as I will be fitting my floorboards this week. I was thinking about fastening the outermost boards (at the chine) down with surface mounted screws, then making small removeable panels, 1 on each side, fastened to cleats, that could be easily removed. The cleats under the panels would be left long enough to hook under the outer boards, eliminating the need for a turnbuckle etc. there.
There's nothing flat about what I'm attaching to, so I'm gonna break it up into at least 8 sections, maybe 1 more in the middle for bailing it out.
I think a metal turnbuckle, flush to the surface would be the most practacle thing in the long run.
Please keep the ideas coming.

This is a good method.

[Songololo]

Two years ago I removed the small wooden above-board turning cleats that were holding down the floorboards - my toes are a lot happier :)

I'd second the method of either no cleats or half cleats below the floorboards as described by Eddibou; the latter is what I currently have after having removed the turning cleats. If you would like to use some sort of turning cleat, then James method referred to below is a good idea.