Oar recommendations

[lsimonson]

I getting closer to finishing my Shellback Dinghy and it occurred to me that I should start thinking about oars. I am most interested in sailing it but I'm sure I will need oars from time to time so I don't need the best. Oars of 7 feet are specified for this boat. Let me know what you would do if you were me. I may like to build a pair sometime in the future but not this year.

[almeyer]

By all means. Oars on the Shellback would be an excellent backup. A pair of Culler style oars would fit perfectly with that boat, and it's not that difficult to make a decent pair. I considered buying oars when I neared completion of my Penobscot 14, then saw what they had available at the local boat store and quickly decided I could do a better job and come out money ahead by building my own.
And congradulations on nearing completion of the build. That's a fine boat you'll have.
Al

[Chip-skiff]

For my Bolger Gypsy (4 ft. beam), I've got 7-1/2 ft. Gull wood oars, made in New Zealand, with rope wraps and rubber donuts. They're the same oars I use on my whitewater playcat, which is handy. The locks are Sawyer Mini-Cobra with a 1/2-inch shank, in bronze sockets. Gulls are popular with driftboat guides in the PNW.

http://www.pelco.co.nz/oars.htm

I've bought them at reasonable prices from Seattle Marine and Crowley Marine in Portland.

[Bill Perkins]

I've found that my Spruce oars ,7 1/2ft. long ,work fine without the Culler type counterweight (my boat has a 4 ft. beam ). The weight of my forearms is enough to balance the oar during the recovery , or maybe I push down slightly without knowing it as I sit back up and aft after the end of the stroke . I can't think that 7 ft. oars of Spruce or fir would need the counterweights. My oars are from Shaw and Tenny . You said you didn't need the best but that would give you a point of excellence to depart from if you make oars in the future . I've gotten allot of pleasure out of mine over the years.

[Woxbox]

If they won't be the principal means of moving the boat, it's better to live with a pair that are a tad short but stow well than to have a pair that are always in the way. Other than that, lighter is better and leathers are a necessary touch both for looks and function.

[Thorne]

As above, very easy to build oars much nicer than the cheap commercial ones, and much cheaper than the good commercial ones. If you don't want to glue them, get a 2x9 7' long and just cut the profiles out then plane to shape.

[Clinton B Chase]

Shellback needs 7 1/2' for best rowing. But 7' will work and are easier to stow.

[lsimonson]

Thanks all. I noticed after my post that Joel White had specified 7 1/2 foot oars; I have used Eric Dow's fine book for this build (my first) and he made 7 footers for it. I think I'll follow Mr. Chase's advice for 7 footers.

The Shaw and Tenney oars look very nice, but around a half a kilobuck for a pair they are a too dear for me, though I'm sure I'd love them.

Seems what I've read here and there on the web, the commercial oars for a little over $100 pair are of questionable quality. I still don't know what to do. I could get a cheap pair and hope they last a year and the next winter build my own, or delay my launch a bit to make them starting tomorrow but I don't have a pattern to follow, or spring for the finest. Hmmm? I'll sleep on it and take a trip to the lumber yard tomorrow to see if I can find an 8/4 plank.

[Eric Hvalsoe]

I am in Seattle. I usually buy Barkley Sound Oars through Fisheries Supply. Typically spoons. Not saying you necessarily need spoons. But look into the brand. Seem like a pretty good value. I have somewhat tweaked my own pair. If you are back east I suppose there are closer sources. There is a fellow in the Canadian Maritimes, I think the name is Van Fancy (does anybody know who I am talking about?). Very good value, at least with minimal shipping cost.

[JimConlin]

The Barkley Sound oars are of middling quality and quite reasonable price.
http://www.barkleysoundoar.com/Product.htm#products

[Peerie Maa]

Thanks all. I noticed after my post that Joel White had specified 7 1/2 foot oars; I have used Eric Dow's fine book for this build (my first) and he made 7 footers for it. I think I'll follow Mr. Chase's advice for 7 footers.

< - - - - >
I'll sleep on it and take a trip to the lumber yard tomorrow to see if I can find an 8/4 plank.

If you make your own, I recommend building the 7 1/2 footers. You can always trim a bit off if you need to, but it is really hard to lengthen them.

[Bruce Hooke]

Cheap oars will generally last just fine, they just won't be as nice to row with. Note that the Shaw & Tenney price is per pair of oars, not per oar. This is fairly typical. At $219 for a pair of spruce oars they sell are still not cheap but they are not half a kilobuck. In your situation I think I would do one of three things:

1. Spend $50 at West Marine or someplace similar for a pair of 7 foot oars. They will be battle axes designed to take any sort of abuse but they will be not much fun to row with as they will be much heavier than necessary and poorly shaped. However, they will get you through the water and if the oars are just for backup then cheap battle axes are maybe not a bad choice. One plus of cheap oars is that you can try out the length and figure out if you are happy with 7 foot oars or if 7 1/2 footers really would be better. At the end of the first summer you may also have a sense of how often you use the oars and this may help determine what you want in the way of oars. If you end up only using the oars to get the boat away from the launching ramp and suchlike and otherwise keep them stowed then just about the only down side of cheap oars is that they won't look as nice as the rest of the boat!

2. Or you can spend the money to get a really nice pair of oars, the pair you really want long term, not a middling pair that you will regret having spent the money on in a year or two. Keep in mind that shipping can be expensive with something as long as a pair of oars so if you can get the oars locally that will save some money.

3. Or you can build oars yourself. As others have noted, it is not that hard, on the other hand if you are eager to get on the water it is one more thing to do, and if you are in the situation of only being able to work on the boat for a few hours on an evening or two a week adding oars to the to-do list could significantly delay the launch date.

As far as oar building goes...one approach is to start with a 3/4" plank that is wide enough to allow for the oar blade. Cut off the stuff you don't need on either side of the loom (shaft) and glue this to the loom to provide the thickness you need for the loom. If you can get your hands on a copy of Pete Culler's Boats, Oars and Rowing it has good directions on how to make a nice set of oars. The book is long out of print but is readily available via used book websites such as http://www.abebooks.com and may also be available at through the library, especially since you are in the Boston area. WoodenBoat sells full size plans for oars: http://www.woodenboatstore.com/Oar-Plans/productinfo/490-001/

Unfortunately the clear spruce that is the ideal for lightweight oars is hard to find. The only readily available "spruce" available at most softwood lumberyards is "SPF" 2x lumber. "SPF" stands for "spruce, pine, fir" so you don't know what you are getting. The only type of spruce readily available through hardwood lumber dealers is Sitka Spruce, which is way over-the-top for oars. Short of tracking down a sawmill that is sawing spruce specifically and will let you pick through the stack to find a couple of clear boards, I think I would go with the SPF from the local lumberyard if I could find clear enough pieces. Some lamination is still likely to be necessary as 1 1/2" is a bit on the thin side for the upper part of the loom. The other point to note with SPF 2x stock is that you want to make sure it is not too green when you start shaping it as if it dries out more it may warp. Construction lumber is sometimes not all that dry. I think SPF is usually dried pretty well but if you start working it and it seems on the green side then set it aside for a few weeks and let it dry some more.

[wizbang 13]

If sailing is your main thing, consider carrying a small sculling oar. Of course one has to learn to use it, but a pair of 7'oars in the bottom of a wee boat while sailing certainly will get in the way. I go all over the place in with just a funky 3' oar while sailing my skiff or my brides' El Toro.

[Bruce Hooke]

The one caveat I would put in about sculling oars is if you plan to sail on the ocean I think I would want to have two oars along, both so that I have a back up if one breaks (I can still scull with the other) and so that if something goes wrong with the sailing rig and it is blowing briskly I have the full power of two oars with which to propel myself. I can scull but I know that in the face of waves and a breeze that has suddenly picked up I can make more progress rowing than sculling. In fact, if your sailing takes you to places where getting caught with just one oar could be a disaster then three oars really makes sense. On the other hand, if your sailing is restricted to smaller inland bodies of water then a single sculling oar might well be quite sufficient.

[62816inBerlin]

On all accounts don't use too short oars. I have a pair I originally made for an inflatable dinghy and now use in the Mirror. Without a head wind and chop, they are fine, but last year I had problems rowing against a head wind while the boat bounced a bit:

http://multiply.com/mu/puffinintegel/image/2:mirrordiscussforum/photos/14/1200x1200/56/IMG-6211.JPG?et=ivw9YeprPwowb8eUQdz%2CIA&nmid=348271324

[JoshuaIII]

Sculling is a art well worth learning. I only have a sculling oar on last 26ft 2 tons boat which I was able to move when no wind.

Sculling on dingy are way easier and faster, but you need to learn how to do it and it take more then 5 minutes to learn to scull well again't wind or current.

Forget the comment about short oar... If you have sail and you need to use those oars, it's because you are already in problem. Rowing with too short and weak oar (Or weak oarlock) it's almost worthless. Ash is a good wood for oars, I used BC Fir for years with no problem also but mine are quite on the heavy side. You can always store them vertical again't the mast or along a spar to don't take too much place.

Just a Idea...

[Tom Hunter]

Van Fancy's site is here: http://www.towerwebsites.com/websites/index.php?username=fancyoars-paddles&page=1

I own a pair of Milton Fancy straight blades that I have had for more than 10 years. Milton passed away in 2006, Van took over, really good solid oars at a good price.

I've also got Shaw and Tenny's, they are wonderful and light and slightly less robust than the Fancy oars. When I raced I would train on the Fancy oars and race on the S&Ts.

[Jamie Orr]

I use a pair of Barkely Sound oars in an Elegant Punt, they look good, are well made and stand up to rough use. Spoons won't make much, if any, difference in a short boat, a pair with straight blades will cost you around $100 plus shipping and you'll be well satisfied.

However, having built your own boat, why stop now? Reasonably good spruce in "2 by" is available in lumberyards, if it's an s-p-f pile just pick the clearest and whitest piece there. At the risk of blowing my own horn, I described how I made a pair of oars in a Duckworks article, at http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/howto/oars/index.htm There are other ways, but this worked for me and was easier than building the boat.

Good luck,

Jamie

[lsimonson]

Thanks again, I am much more informed. Yup the Shaw Tenney price is for the pair- I saw "oar" not "oars" when I looked and failed to read the finer print. My mistake- sorry. I will hem and haw on this matter a couple more days so keep the advice coming, I appreciate it.

[JimConlin]

Another possibility is to get a pair or more of the cheap clunky oars, decide what length works for you and next winter, when the spirit moves, attack those clunky things with a spokeshave or such and make them your own.

[Chip-skiff]

You ought to look at the Fancy Oars website, with 7.5 ft. straight blade oars about $78-85 a pair. Good spruce. Maybe they aren't clubby/yachty/multilaminated, but they don't look clunky to me.

http://www.fancyoars-paddles.com/

And Gull 7.5 ft. oars from Seattle Marine are $71 a pair:

http://www.seattlemarine.net/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3955&idcategory=0

I bought four, since I use 'em on a whitewater playcat and my Bolger skiff, with Sawyer Mini-Cobra locks.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_XAqLuU8H28k/Tc3-WUWVGgI/AAAAAAAABW4/78e9sf3_Bts/gull%20oars.jpg

I like rope wraps and rubber donuts. The foam grips are no good and I got rid of them. Gulls come with bare wood grips, and that's the best setup.

[wizbang 13]

On all accounts don't use too short oars. I have a pair I originally made for an inflatable dinghy and now use in the Mirror. Without a head wind and chop, they are fine, but last year I had problems rowing against a head wind while the boat bounced a bit:

http://multiply.com/mu/puffinintegel/image/2:mirrordiscussforum/photos/14/1200x1200/56/IMG-6211.JPG?et=ivw9YeprPwowb8eUQdz%2CIA&nmid=348271324
This is exactly the kind of clumsy situation that a good sculler can smooth out.

[Bill Perkins]

Chip-skiff ;thanks for the Fancy oars link , interesting stuff.

[62816inBerlin]

@Wizbang:
I agree if the boat is heavy and long enough, but a Mirror sits so high in the water, has virtually no lateral resistance with centreboard up, and with the boom and gaff in the position it was in, you'd have trouble keeping the bow in the wind at all.
This was a short hop and I wouldn't have the spars where they are if I intended to go further.
When I had to row out of the narrow harbour at Barhöft (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=de&geocode=&q=Barh%C3%B6ft,+Klausdorf,+Mecklenburg-Vorpommern,+Deutschland&aq=0&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=53.564699,87.011719&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Barh%C3%B6ft+Klausdorf,+Nordvorpommern,+Meck lenburg-Vorpommern,+Deutschland&ll=54.42677,13.021975&spn=0.038847,0.084972&t=h&z=14) against a fairly stiff head wind, I moved the oar leathers further towards the ends and I was able to row with the oars extended further outboard. I had also tied the gaff and boom higher. Once outside the entrance, I was able to raise sails and broad-reach across the shallows with the centreboard almost completely up.

[wizbang 13]

@Wizbang:
I agree if the boat is heavy and long enough, but a Mirror sits so high in the water, has virtually no lateral resistance with centreboard up, and with the boom and gaff in the position it was in, you'd have trouble keeping the bow in the wind at all.
This was a short hop and I wouldn't have the spars where they are if I intended to go further.
When I had to row out of the narrow harbour at Barhöft (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=de&geocode=&q=Barh%C3%B6ft,+Klausdorf,+Mecklenburg-Vorpommern,+Deutschland&aq=0&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=53.564699,87.011719&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Barh%C3%B6ft+Klausdorf,+Nordvorpommern,+Meck lenburg-Vorpommern,+Deutschland&ll=54.42677,13.021975&spn=0.038847,0.084972&t=h&z=14) against a fairly stiff head wind, I moved the oar leathers further towards the ends and I was able to row with the oars extended further outboard. I had also tied the gaff and boom higher. Once outside the entrance, I was able to raise sails and broad-reach across the shallows with the centreboard almost completely up.
A boat does not need to be long n heavy n keeled to scull well. My 100lb wife sculls her El Toro into wind n chop regularly. None of my small boats have skegs( I took em off). A sculler can play with the board with his left hand, rather than sit on it and get his butt all wet.

[Thorne]

Find a supply for good spruce and make your own -- easy and cheaper than other options, plus a MUCH better oar.

I didn't want to faff about with gluing, so picked up a 2"x9"x9' plank, traced out the basic Culler shape, cut with the bandsaw, then shaped with power planer, beltsander and palmsander. Oil and varnish, put on the leathers and away ya go!

http://www.luckhardt.com/oarplank2.jpg

http://www.luckhardt.com/oarplank4.jpg

http://www.luckhardt.com/oarplank5.jpg

http://www.luckhardt.com/oarplank6.jpg

http://www.luckhardt.com/oarplank8.jpg

To protect the corners and end of the blade, I put a thick bead of epoxy heavily mixed with Cabosil along it, although others here recommend a piece of nylon line coated in epoxy.

http://www.luckhardt.com/loonlk-row1.jpg

[Thorne]

A non-trad alternative is this uber-light spruce and marine ply design by John DeLapp of Sacramento. They must be 1/3 the weight of my already light spruce oars, and John claims to have rowed over 20 miles in one day with 'em. I took this photo on Sunday's TSCA Lake Natoma Row, as we all took turns rowing his sweet little peapod-mod design.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227024_10150295119003646_519763645_8812344_2809749 _n.jpg


Here she is rowing past the end of an island on Natoma a few days ago -

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=/10150297420268646&comments

[62816inBerlin]

Find a supply for good spruce and make your own -- easy and cheaper than other options, plus a MUCH better oar.

I didn't want to faff about with gluing, so picked up a 2"x9"x9' plank, traced out the basic Culler shape, cut with the bandsaw, then shaped with power planer, beltsander and palmsander. Oil and varnish, put on the leathers and away ya go!
...........

To protect the corners and end of the blade, I put a thick bead of epoxy heavily mixed with Cabosil along it, although others here recommend a piece of nylon line coated in epoxy.

http://www.luckhardt.com/loonlk-row1.jpg

Sheesh, that is an awesome amount of work with a beautiful result. I lack all the power equipment. My stubby oars (originally made for an inflatable, as I said) were made from scrap wood that came out of a cupboard - at least it was well seasoned :-{).

As a Sea Scout, I cut back a pair of ash lifeboat oars to use in our pirogues. In spit of lopping off a foot or two or three and planing the blades a bit thinner, they remained VERY HEAVY .
Is spruce lighter?

Gernot H

[lsimonson]

Thanks again for all your good thoughts, and special thanks to Tom Hunter and Chip-skiff for the Fancy oars site. I ordered a pair of 7 1/2 footers from Fancy, varnished and leathered, and expect to get them in a couple of days.

[Thorne]

Spruce is much lighter, but will fail if you use it to push off rocks, battle sea monsters, pry boats apart, etc...

[almot09]

I could get a cheap pair and hope they last a year and the next winter build my own,
Leaving aside esthetic considerations, if you get a pair of cheap NON-wooden oars (typically aluminum shaft with plastic blade), they may outlive the boat owner, and with zero maintenance. Second on Barkley Sound oars - sufficient quality.

[62816inBerlin]

@Thorne
had to copy and paste the URL into my facebook window, but then saw that the boat moves sweetly!
Those ash things were about 15' long if I remember rightly and came off one of the laid-up Largo tankers (built in the 1920s) and must have been designed to be operated by galley slaves and not by shipwrecked distressed mariners, they were BIG and HEAVY. You could've used them to stave off pirate ships and sea monsters, I suppose.
Cheers, Gernot

[JimConlin]

It's a nice idea. Doug Martin was doing oars like that 25 years ago. 1/8" ply, IIRC.
One question-
What function is served by the applied rib on the concave side?


A non-trad alternative is this uber-light spruce and marine ply design by John DeLapp of Sacramento. ...
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227024_10150295119003646_519763645_8812344_2809749 _n.jpg
...

[Chip-skiff]

Glad that the Fancy Oars appealed to you. I like the family craftsman aspect. Curious that the family name is Fancy, which the oars are not: beautifully plain, like Shaker furniture.

The Gull Oars recall my time in NZ, where I learned to sail, so there's considerable sentiment in my choice. And they're awfully good oars in the bargain. I've got eight, for various boats. The tip protectors are good if you row whitewater (always bashing rocks) or launch and land in shallows over a shingly bottom. Dragging spruce oars in shingle first renders them a bit fuzzy on the endgrain, whence they take up moisture and split along the blades. So keep the tips well-coated with varnish.

[Thorne]

What function is served by the applied rib on the concave side?

Not the faintest clue -- that's the way he built 'em. I suspect the ply needed reinforcement strips, and since the loom is tapered onto the back, he put 'em on the front.

[jalmberg]

Speaking of leather, this is one of those almost lost arts... how do you know what to buy? There are lots of different kinds of leather out there. And where do you buy it?

[Thorne]

Several good threads on leathering oars that will be worth a search, and Bob Smalser probably gives the best advice as he's worked with leather quite a bit.

As I recall, heavy latigo or saddle leather is recommended, and you can get good stuff on eBay along with proper tools, thread, etc.

[jalmberg]

Several good threads on leathering oars that will be worth a search, and Bob Smalser probably gives the best advice as he's worked with leather quite a bit.

As I recall, heavy latigo or saddle leather is recommended, and you can get good stuff on eBay along with proper tools, thread, etc.

I've been thinking about it, and wondering why you couldn't buy an old pair of tall, leather boots at a thrift store. Just cut off the feet, and you should have plenty of leather for pair of oars. Might not be the perfect, 'marine' thing to do, but it should be 'good enough', which is my standard.

Might even be able to get some interesting colors ;-)

[Thorne]

Different leather - there are many types, thicknesses and finishes. Much like wood, come to think of it...

[Chip-skiff]

Boot leather would be better than nothing, but it's quite thin and supple compared to latigo, which is used for straps and other hard-usage items. And given the work it takes to install leathers, it makes sense to use the best material available. Oar leather is sold by nautical suppliers, but the best source might be saddle shops. They also sell punches, linen thread, lacing, etc.

[Woxbox]

If there's a Tandy (http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/) shop near you, they carry latigo. Once you have some in the house, you'll find all sorts of uses for it. A punch is a good thing to get too -- makes cutting the holes for the lacing a very quick and neat job.