Keel plank

[chrisk]

I finally got my lofting floor put together, life "stuff" got in the way, nothing tragic though, so it took a while. I am trying to build a decked sailing canoe. I am using the lines from a Forrest & Stream article from circa 1900. The article is the Foggy Dew (http://www.dragonflycanoe.com/d_canoes/index.html) article.

Note, I am NOT trying to make a replica! I am using the lines in that article and will use the 1/16" western Red Cedar veneers I have and 6 oz fiberglass cloth on inside and outside of the hull, much like a stripper canoe. Basically, the purpose of the project is to see if I can build a boat strictly from a lines drawings and use up materials that I already have. While I can't call the project free I can call it already paid for.

I was planning on 4 layers of 1/16" western Red Cedar at diagonals. So, I am wondering if a keel plank down the middle is necessary or not since I'll be cold-molding the hull and fiberglassing it and stripper canoes don't typically have them. They typically have just inner stems and outer stems.

Do I need a keel plank when cold-molding and fiberglassing a canoe-sized hull ?

Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chrisk@quietwind.net)

[Todd Bradshaw]

Since the diagonal veneers aren't likely to bend neatly over that "V" shape down the bottom, butting them into a rabbet of sorts on either side of the keel may be the easiest way to build the bottom.

[ 04-22-2004, 04:46 AM: Message edited by: Todd Bradshaw ]

[Jeremy Burnett]

A way might be to have an inner keel plank,hog or whatever with the bottom bevelled so that the strips run over it and butt together in the middle.Then plane the butt joint flat and glue a thin outer keel on top.Does the canoe have dagger plate or centreboard?

[Bruce Taylor]

Fun project! Can you post pics of your progress?

I wouldn't feel comfortable attaching the centreboard assembly directly to the boat's skin. Also, the keel plank gives a stout surface on which to mount your mast steps, as well as something to drill into for attaching floorboards, half frames, etc. I'd leave it.

Edit: Oops! I should have checked the drawings first. I see she has bilge-boards, so scratch my comment about the centreboard. I'd still leave the keelson. It seems to me you'd want to keep things pretty stiff in the vicinity of those twin boards.

[ 04-22-2004, 09:40 AM: Message edited by: Bruce Taylor ]

[Venchka]

QUESTION:

Where/how did you get 1/16" western red cedar veneer? How wide are your pieces of veneer? Are thicker veneers available? Say 1/4" and 5/32"?

[chrisk]

I got the veneers from Eden Saw a while ago for a project that I ended up not doing. They are 6" wide and about 8' long. I have about 132 of them.

I don't know about availability of other sizes.

Chris Kottaridis (chrisk@quietwind.net)

[Venchka]

Thanks!