Need stain matching advise

[J. Dillon]

After 8 years my boat had some rot in the rubrail and probably from using unseasoned W. oak Rather then replace the entire rubrail section I elected to cut only the bad section ( about 4 ‘)and "scarf".in a new replacement .

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid57/pc76e0278859e0830b8b5832630390d29/fc6e3da4.jpg

The image shows the rotten section and the new length fastened on. In this image a coved molding to accept the nylon rope inlay was cut further aft and would stager the repair and a critical eye It would also hide some of the scarf in the rail.

The problem lies in matching the new repaired section with the old stained and varnished rubrail.
In the original stain I used "Firzite" a product available at the time meant to be applied to fir plywood to "tame the wild grain " as the adds proclaimed. (It's no longer available) I liked the way it looked on W. oak and used it as a oak stain. To diminish the abruptness I sanded down the old build up of varnish the old portion adjacent to the scarf as shown in the image in hopes this would "distribute" the eye

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid57/p7e3486068e7bc70d932fb2993167be5b/fc6e49ef.jpg

Any body have any knowledge or tips on how to match up the old to the new. Perhaps a mixture of stains but which ones. Min wax golden oak is in the ball park but needs something else.

Any ideas ?

JD

[Mrleft8]

Potasium dichromate dilluted in water first, then the golden oak stain. The potasium dichromate will "age" the oak so it more closely resembles the older existing oak.
(it's a mild oxidizing agent)

[tjdono]

If its just a stain match you can have an "eye match" done at any reputable paint store. This would entail having a piece of the old rubrail available for them to match too. This in conjunction with the "aging" process outlined in the previous post should get you as spot on as possible. Good Luck!

Tim

[jason stumpf]

i don't know how close "in the ballpark" actually is, but here's a nice little trick: provided that your stain is the right hue but too dark in tone (i.e.: its the right shade of brown or red, but could stand to be a bit lighter), try mixing some of the intended varnish with the stain. (btw, you must use all oil-based products here.) the varnish will blend with the stain and slow the penetration of the stain pigment into the wood. i use this technique quite often when staining cabinetry and furniture, esp. woods like cherry and maple, which have a strong tendency to take stain very uneven and "blotchy." with the right blend, the blotch problem is gone. in color-matching, you work with a darker stain, and add spar to lighten the affect untill its right. you can wipe on and wipe off, or brush on multiple thin coats (let dry 24hrs each) to build to the right color. as for proportions of mix, try one part spar to two parts stain to start. you can vary as needed.
good luck.
jason