View Full Version : Carpentry dementia

09-18-2010, 08:50 AM
I'm building an apartment over my garage and haven't worked on it since spring. As an order of events, I'd like to know-

kitchen-cabinets, rough plumbing, finish floor...what order?

bath- tileboard on floor, shower stall, toilet, vanity, tile, rough plumbing...what order?

...and any tricks of the trade or good products that help keep costs down and end up with a good result.
The plumbing inspector says 36" shower stall. The reviews for Home Depot ones are not favorable, any recommendations?

Jim Ledger
09-18-2010, 08:56 AM
Rough in the plumbing and electric and heat first. Insulate. Drywall. Cabinets either before or after finished floor. After is better, less fitting and easier floor finishing. Use the poor-looking material under the cabinets.

09-18-2010, 09:24 AM
What Jim said.
Build your own shower stall. use concrete board with vinyl pan liner under it (floor) then tile it. you can design your own tile pattern and have it pre-made on fiberglass mesh backer. Also using glass block about halfway up the wall makes for a bright and less claustrophobic shower experience.

Jim Ledger
09-18-2010, 09:58 AM
A tile shower is a whole lot more labor-intensive than a fiberglass unit and requires a rather specialized skill set that you might or might not posses. A poorly made tile shower will give you grief till the day you rip it out. For a rental apartment a fiberglass shower makes a lot of sense.

09-18-2010, 10:35 AM
You want to get the wall and ceiling painting done after the drywall is finished, before the cabinets or finished floor is in. The less you have to cover up, mask, protect or paint around, the easier it is. It's cleaner too, all the dust is cleaned up or sealed in. You can touch up dings.

09-18-2010, 10:51 AM
As all of the above have said. Getting in heat, plumbing and electric now will make the rest of renovations bearable when it gets cold. Invest in GOOD drop cloths for use over the finished floors and tape them down. Saves refinishing and ding fixing. Many years ago, helped out on a couple of apt. Rehabs using IKEA cabinets. They seemed pretty decent for the price. YMMV

09-18-2010, 11:19 AM
Cover the toilet flange or use one with a knock-out.

Don't forget blocking in the framing for towel bars, grab bars, TP holders, tub/shower surround.

Plan for moisture/vapor barriers?

09-18-2010, 05:53 PM
Good stuff! The tile underlayment for the bath, cover the whole room's floor with it? Tile the whole floor?, then shower stall and toilet flange on top of the underlayment or on top of tile?

09-18-2010, 06:36 PM
For a rental, aim for the highest possible standard, after all the standard of living is constantly rising and you'll want to stay competitive down the line. Anything but tile and glass will look and feel unpleasant and downright unsanitary with wear and age.

Put in cabinets, vanity etc. last. They are most vulnerable to damage. IKEA is an excellent choice for both kitchen and bathroom, and when the doors and drawers are worn out you can change them. Hopefully they will keep their doors and front panels compatible for a long time.

I'd rather epoxy TP holders and other light accessories rather than screwing, you want to actually use the crapper yourself while working out the perfect position. Bathroom ergonometry is important stuff!

I agree about making your own shower stall. I went with just curved glass doors, but space inside the stall is a bit tight and water finds a way under them. Good thing the floor has serious slope towards the shower drain, so it's pure aesthetics and not a technical problem. But do pay extra for self-cleaning glass.

+1 with the moisture and vapour barrier talk. Waterproof and vapour proof the crap out of it. It can't be overdone. Maybe the tenant likes steam showers and decides it's a good idea block the vent.

09-18-2010, 08:19 PM
Almost forgot... Use cement board or waterproof drywall in the bath. Original builder didn't in our house and I'm looking at redoing my peeling drywall in the shower area...PITA.

Rich Jones
09-18-2010, 08:38 PM
I'm old-fashioned and have always poured 1" of concrete over tar-paper and wire mesh on my bathroom floors. Very solid and also levels out the floor. Use thin-set to glue tile down on floors, mastic for the walls. Install shower base first, though. Cement board on shower stall walls. I've found that a 38" neo-angle shower stall, although only 2" bigger than a 36", gives you a lot more room. And for an apartment, go with the fiberglass shower base. A clear glass shower enclosure will give it an airy look. The rage now is for porcelain tile instead of ceramic. If you go that route, you'll need a diamond wet saw to cut the damn stuff and diamond drill bits to mount TP holders, etc.
I'd install the wood floors before the kitchen cabinets. Cover floors with sheets of 4x8 doorskin plywod. Cheap stuff and it'll save your floor from dropped tools, etc.
Thirty-five years as a home improvement contractor, I've seen it all. Any more questions, just ask.