Good news, hull not leaking (much), bad news...

[ddqarch]

Well my hull is not taking on water at the astonishing rate I thought it was (just at its normal semi-alarming rate). Turns out I have a puncture in one of my wet-exhaust lines. The hole is right where the line runs under an aft gas tank, so it is almost impossible to see the source of the water. I thought my bottom planking to keelson rabbit was opening up under load. This should be a much easier problem to solve. But, is there a way to repair a punctured exhaust line? It is a Vetus 90mm i.d. black-rubbery looking line. Most of the line looks like it is in good shape, don't want to get a whole new one if it can be repaired. Any ideas? Thanks... p.s. boat is a 39' Hooper Island Draketail, its a gas Crusader engine.

[donald branscom]

Go get the new part.
You know that is what you should do.

[Peerie Maa]

Cut the pipe at the leak then using three stainless clamps each side clamp the ends over some 90mm od stainless pipe.
Check all round to see what caused the hole, if there is no obvious cause order a new pipe, 'cos the existing one may be shot.

[gibetheridge]

It's not just water coming in there, think carbon monoxide. Why take the chance?

[BETTY-B]

You're joking, right? Sounds like some pretty crappy hose to begin with. This is no corner I would cut. Less than a couple hundred bucks would put this problem to bed for many years. Pay the extra for the proper hose clamps as well.

[ddqarch]

Ok, I'm getting the message. But additional information: The hoses are quality hoses and are about 8 years old. They look like new. The hose that is leaking was removed then put back last year for an unrelated repair, and I noticed the bilge pumps coming on more often immediately after that. I suspect the mechanic damaged the hose while removing or reinstalling it, rather than that it has degraded by itself. When I pull it out, I suspect I will find a clear puncture. A new hose is not going to break the bank, but back to my original question: is there a way to repair a puncture in the exhaust hose? I am philosophically opposed to taking 11'-11" of good material to the landfill if there is a safe and sound way to fix the puncture. A coupler seems like it would work, but I can't find any for this hose. I suspect I will take majority advice on here and replace the whole thing, but just wanted one last shot at seeing if anyone had done this before... thanks for advice, it all helps...

[BETTY-B]

Exhaust hose is super tough stuff. You have to wonder how it would have been punctured in the first place.

We'll have to see pictures here too, of course...:)

[SMARTINSEN]

I wanna see a picture of the boat.

[sdowney717]

stainless laying against rubber causes the SS to corrode badly.
better to use copper or bronze pipe.

[BETTY-B]

12' of 3.5" i.d. bronze pipe is cheap too.

[sdowney717]

Hampton rubber here sells bronze pipe nipples for a reasonable price. All you would need is 6 or 8 inch length.

[BETTY-B]

Hehe. I thought you were talking about the clamps on the hose itself was the problem area. Of course, bronze it the only way.

[Todd D]

Geez, its a wet exhaust hose. They sell lengths of fiberglass tube to join bits of wet exhaust. If you don't want to replace the hose (best option), remove it, cout out the bad bit and put in a fiberglass joining bit with two hose clamps on each bit of hose and you will be good to go as long as the hose clamps don't hang up on something when you put the hose back. The fiberglass will be fine - they make waterlift mufflers from fiberglass afterall.

[redbopeep]

We'd remove it, replace with new, and IF it hasn't degraded but rather has a hole, keep the good parts of the hose on the boat for spare/emergency--stored under our cockpit adjacent our exhaust hoses in use. We have extra hose and nipples here on the boat.

I've been told that even the best quality exhaust hose should be replaced every 10 years. This info is in our "list of things to replace every 10 years whether it looks like it needs it or not"...

[Lew Barrett]

Look into Vernatube (http://www.centekindustries.com/vernatubegroup.html) for the most reliable and longest lasting off the shelf full exhaust systems. I'm unclear about the efficacy of replacing a small section of an existing system with this product, but it is an exceptionally good solution. I believe Todd (above) was referring to this when he said "fiberglass" tube. Very good product line.

Disclaimer: No exhaust system will protect you when/if you persistently overheat or lose cooling at the exhaust knuckle.

[ddqarch]

Thanks everyone for the good advice. Given the ten-year replacement rule, and that the hose is 8 now, I probably will go ahead and replace. I suspect I will find a screw sticking up through the bottom planking from her last repair when I do. There was a request for a pic so I finally researched how to do that and hopefully this will work...http://www.flickr.com/photos/51298126@N02/4717709790/sizes/m/

[ddqarch]

Try again...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4717709790_6772e94731.jpg

[ddqarch]

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4717709706_e330f7fdeb.jpg

[ddqarch]

This one makes me smile...http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4717709830_3ef0523787.jpg

[CharlieCobra]

As well it should...