Rebuild of Norwegian Pilot Cutter

[svaap]

Hi,

Over the last 15 yrs I've been working on restoring/rebuilding a Norwegian Pilot Cutter (Colin Archer -type) cutter.

These working boats were often small in size -25 -35 feet, and operated in rough seas in finding vessels in need of pilot-services mainly in the southern shores of the Norwegian coast-line.

My boat was built in early 1900 (not verified), and was 30' over her decks.

Neglect over a long time, left her with bad timbers and fumes of decay lurking in her bilges.

I found her, bought her, and sailed her the firs summer.
Her leaks were increasing, and hundreds of litres found their way into her bilges when sailed hard..
-She needed repairs..

You probably know the story "Just a few planks here, and bits of frames there, some paint and we're off sailing again..."

Now, 15 into the restoration process, she still is high and dry in my workshop...

I will post some pictures streching over many years -hopefully in a cronological sequence:

Starting (Happy Days)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4603055733_88d991299d_b.jpg

It was soon to be discovered that both fasteners and wood had reached a sorry state due to rust and rot...:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1107/4603585842_54212a4eb4_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3408/4603584870_50bf85bf25.jpg

The rebuild started with tearing out rotten frames and planking.
Some of the frames were so bad that they could not come out in one peace, but practically was dug out of the hull..

Replacing stem, keel, sternpost, frames and planking took some years...:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3399/4602970501_ea0b2b792d_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4603589142_2a0b00315a_b.jpg

To be continued...

[svaap]

The rebuild was done with primitive tools -mostly hand tools.
Frames were cut using an adze, and planks were hand-planed to finish and bevelling.

Over the years I've obtained a effective range of power tools, to make things easier and to increase the speed fo the project (ok, 15 years for one project doesn't give it too much speed I guess..l)

Here are some pictures of the hull and ballast keel. The keel was cast in an under-ground-level mould, heavily supported by beams and crossings. It weigh 3000 kg.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4603043215_59c3b4fae6.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1430/4603655942_233b8e96dd_b.jpg

The frames and planking are of Norwegian pine (full of pitch) and are quite beafy.. Frames are doubble 4"x4" (grown), and planking is 1,5", splined.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1044/4603039651_97435c83aa.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1135/4603652950_7b9808b868_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1293/4602972307_8a0123665e.jpghttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3352/4603587172_0d8175cba7_b.jpg

[Thorne]

All I'm seeing is red "X" icons, mate.

Here's how to post photos on this forum:

First - don't attach photos. Only a tiny version will display.

Second - Post the photos on the web. Use your own website, or a free image hosting service like www.flickr.com, picturetrail, photobucket, etc.

Once posted on the web, right-click the photo to copy the URL (web address). Always test first by pasting the photo URL into the location field (http:// ) of a web browser and see if the photo displays.

(Flickr only - You usually have to first click the ALL SIZES link near the top -- then you can get the URL by right-clicking or copying the "Grab the photo's URL" data field below the image. If you don't want the largest size (displayed) you can then click another option in the 'Available sizes" links above the image.)

Third - once posted on the web, try this procedure while logged in to this Forum:

1. Click the "User CP" link in the browser window in the top left of the menu bar.

2. Click the "Edit Options" link about halfway down the left column.

3. At the bottom of the next page in "Misc Options", select "Enhanced Interface" from the pulldown list. Click the SAVE CHANGES button.

4. Once this interface has been selected, in any "Reply" window you can click the "insert photo" icon --> a little yellow square icon with the stamp in the upper right corner, the mountains in the lower center.

5. Once the little dialog box titled "Please enter the URL of your image" comes up, paste the URL of the photo in the field.

TROUBLESHOOTING:
If unsure of the procedure, test first by pasting the photo URL into the location field (http:// ) of a web browser.

Remember, the PHOTO URL will end in .jpg, not .htm or html. URLs ending in .htm are the page that the image is on, not the photo location itself. If the photo URL ends in other code, try deleting everything after the "xxxxxx.jpg" part of the URL to get it to display on web forums.

[svaap]

Oups...

I will try Flickr.
It is allready 01:00 in the morning -so.... zzzzz for now;)

[StevenBauer]

Just going by the text I'm sure the pictures will be worth the wait. :)



Steven

[peter radclyffe]

good stuff, where are you svaap

[svaap]

Hi again..

I have started importing pictures to flickr.com , but it will take a while..

I am building in Norway, just north of Oslo far away from salty seawater :o

Are there any edit-functions to use so that I don't have to start all over again when posting?

[Duncan Gibbs]

Yes! Use the http://forum.woodenboat.com/images/editor/insertimage.gif icon above in your edit/post buttons.

When you copy the image URL from Flickr ensure you use that button to ensure each image has "your image URL here " tags around it. I use Picturetrail and can copy the image across with these tags already in place.

I'm really looking forward to seeing your shots! :)

[mizzenman]

Hi again..

I have started importing pictures to flickr.com , but it will take a while..

I am building in Norway, just north of Oslo far away from salty seawater :o

Are there any edit-functions to use so that I don't have to start all over again when posting?

Hi and well come, the edit button is down on the right side of your posts.

Looking forward to se more of this!

[chuckt]

Wow--very cool boat. Another favorite thread I think. 15 years!!! You must be a patient man.

[Duncan Gibbs]

Totally brilliant!!! I mean.... WOW!!! A very hearty welcome aboard the Forum Svaap. That's quite an entrance you've made! :)

[svaap]

Thanks for friendly comments!

I finished the hull to a high-gloss finish, but regret doing that later on as I really like it better when you can actually see the planking..

Here are some pictures of the work:








http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1026/4603933016_dfaf7b7357_b.jpg

The decks were replaced in the early 80's and appeared to be in good condition. I needed to replace some stanchions and other details:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3380/4603933962_379c6fe882_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3554/4603320123_4e9ff63de0_b.jpg

Working on the casing:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1265/4603934646_3190c5d3a1_b.jpg


I think these pictures are about 4 yrs old.

More coming after uploading pictures

[JimD]

Astounding effort and result.

[Champagne]

Good to see you are drinking Ringnes øl while working on her :)

Nice progress!

Brgds

Champagne (just south west of Oslo)

[lagspiller]

Ringnes, piff... . This boat deserves Nagne ø, el.l.
I don't give my dog ringnes, and I don't even have a dog.

[mizzenman]

Agreed about Ringnes

Hansa would be the right thing!

[svaap]

I'm glad that a bottle of beer in a picture causes such enthusiasm on ones favourite brand...

Now to the progress of the project.
Engine installation included welding a foundation/frame in steel.
I am no welder, but I have made some test-pieces and found out that I have managed to get welds that are "deep" and strong.
(They have been inspected later by a guy with knowledge of the trade)

The engine is in fact Norwegian -a SABB (no, not like the cars Saab).

It is a two-cylinder engine of massive 22HK pushed through a 420 kilo lump of metal...
I chose it because of it's reliability and also it's sound (!)...

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1120/4603347985_31e19ff3f3_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4603965878_48b875aba0_b.jpg

Later, I created fixed points for the prop-shaft alignment, to be able to drill the hole through the new sternpost.

After drilling a pilot-hole, I made a similar jig on the outside of the boat, making shure it corresponded with the angle of the engine on it's bedding.

A picture of the drilling:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1073/4603353173_d37809c767_o.jpg

And a rough assembly of the propel -a two-bladed variable pitch with 62cm diameter:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1024/4603353237_f18d3f4aa8_o.jpg

The sternpost and aperture for the propel was later adjusted/faired.

Now it was time to start on the interiour.
SVAAP is a relatively small boat, and I needed to take that into consideration when arranging the interiour.

I wanted a fixed bunk in the forward part of the boat, and also wanted the galley to be in the rear of the cabin.

A centre, foldable table with seats on both sides was also on the "I would like-list". Now it was a question of -is there room for all this?

I started in the front of the boat with the sleeping-quarters:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3387/4603970136_8b89d9ce94_b.jpg

I wanted to paint the panelling, leaving some details of varnished maghogany

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3324/4603972566_a25c2c790e_b.jpg

Next will be the oven and galley..

[Jim Ledger]

I love everything about your boat, including those ventilation holes in the last photo. Classic. :)

Tremendous effort and a beautiful result.

[svaap]

Thanks Jim, I thought the ventilation holes would make a nice addition to the cabin, and it is used all over as a signature.

In Norway, even the summers can be chilly and damp, so I would like to install a owen running on diesel from the main diesel-supply.
That way, I would not have to worry about filling a reservouar and watching the supply.

Again, a small boat calls for utilizing the space as best as one can:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1248/4603972380_6cdfb89d23_b.jpg

The oven on the picture is burning wood and pellets, but I have later changed it with a diesel-burning model from "Kabola", with a nice glass that gives visiblility of the flame burning. Very nice!

I made the galley as big as I could with the space available, and wanted room for a gas-stove for a bit more possibillities for preparing meals.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1283/4603973152_ca00173478_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4603358519_ffee08213e_b.jpg

The observant reader will see that my favourite beer brand is "Rignes"....

The opening, under the sink, is to allow for the bench to be converted into a sleeping bunk... Again, it is a small boat..

Chart-table was also something I would like to have..but I also needed a toilet-facility... Hmmm can I combine the two??

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4056/4603967954_834460619e.jpghttp://farm2.static.flickr.com/1269/4603968246_e0dd688c74.jpg

Doesn't give much privacy...but sometimes compromises are neccessary...

[StevenBauer]

I just knew these pics would be worth waiting for. Fantastic work. Thanks.



Steven

[Concordia 33]

Beautiful shots! Beautiful boat! Nice Job!

[George Ray]

wonderful stuff ......

[Ken Cormorant]

Beautiful Boat. I like the details. I'll just advice that you flush before navigating. :-)
I've got a gavleboat that I work on, Would love to see a bit of the overall layout of your cabin.

[svaap]

Ken: I will try to find a picture with a more overall overwiev of the layout..

After almost finishing the interiour and cockpit, I found a piece of bad wood in the deckplanking..
I knew there were some suspicious beams in the forward ends, and also some of the deck-planking to be less than 100%...

I went over the possibillities over and over again -not knowing if I should repair, look the other way or simply replace bad planks, or ultimately; replacing the deck...

Of course, I landed on the last alternative -and ended up replacing all of the beams as well.

I ordred iroko hardwood for the deck (would be planed down to 40mm x 60mm), and oak for the beams, then started breaking up the old pine deck.

I was suprised to find a lot of bad wood in the deck/beams, and felt a sigh of relief that I had made the right descision not to just patch out the old one..

It took some time to make new beams, as there are a lot of dove-tail joinery between the carling and the half-beams.
I counted 34 dovetails, and it was a nice experience to learn how to master the technique of getting them tightly fitted.

Since I had the deck all open, I wanted to make some changes to the cabin-trunk.
It was very narrow (wich is nice I think) but was constructed with the same height in the front as in the back. Made it appear to be higher in front somehow... Should probably follow the waterline, not the sheer of the boat...

I moved the carlins out 15cm on both sides, and decided to keep the same curvatour on the beams for the cabin -making the sides a bit lower. I also shortened the cabin-trunk with ca 60 cm, to make way for a flush-deck right in front of the mast.

Then I decided to make a hatch on the foredeck.

Now it's time for some pictures I guess.... :

All new oak:


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3367/4603612478_b5c246890c.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3388/4602998319_8af261bbce.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4603007715_19c5206803.jpg

I made copper bolts (12mm diameter), with a riveted head on one side and threads on the other. If I possible, I riveted the head on both sides.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4603007949_dd21f2f27e.jpg

More to come..

[skaraborgcraft]

outstanding tenacity. I just love all that chunky oak. Some very nice detailing, the chart table/head made me smile. You certainly deserve your beer! CHEERS

[chuckt]

Ooooh! Ahhhh!

[TimH]

beautiful.

[Kon-Tiki]

GRATULERER MED DAGEN!!

Great work, beautiful and practical rebuild - thanks for sharing! Can't wait to see more.

Will raise a Hansa to you tonight!

[svaap]

Thank you all for your comments.

The framing of the deck took almost 6 months.
I made almost 200 copper bolts, with a riveted head on one side.

The knees that support the beams and the breasthook, was cut from roots that i dug out of the forest.
A lot of work, but they provide really strong connections and are far more pleasant than laminated ones (I think...)

Here is the starting point (after hours of digging, sweating and swearing...):

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1283/4609823224_1d712550ca_b.jpg

And here is the finished result after fitting:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4609217121_2a2457c0ae_b.jpg


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1338/4609225917_5655e4d835.jpg



http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1180/4609830554_9689507ccd.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1017/4609829622_b1e11d7cce.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/4609829276_8ab5a21144.jpg

The covering board was cut from 60 mm thick oak using chainsaw for the initial cut. Later I faired the cut with a bandsaw. Not easy to manouvre those beast through the saw, but it got there somehow..

(pictures coming up)

[chuckt]

Can you describe how you got from tree stump to knee?

[svaap]

Making patterns for the covering boards:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4603628704_b065debb7c.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4603010051_7e961b43ae_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4603010519_ed87c3293f_b.jpg

And cutting at the finished line on the bandsaw:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4615150994_5365ce4e8e.jpg

Now I could focus on measuring the bevels between the covering-board and the sheerstrake, as the covering-board is on the inside of the upper plank.

Quite similar technique as measuring the bevel on the planking on the hull -only I did those many years ago...so a bit of repetition was needed....

The covering-board is planed down to 50mm thickness, and will be cut into the deck-beams with a 10mm groove.

Fitting the chunky oak planks:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3413/4615151250_0ba88b7566_b.jpg

They are scarfed together, leaving room for chaulking of the seams:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/4614556547_df6e272b3e.jpg


Next: milling iroko

[svaap]

Chuck:

Can you describe how you got from tree stump to knee?

It started out with cleaning the stump, and laying out the cuts trying to get the most out of it.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3348/4614589501_faed4a6ab5_b.jpg

And leaving them for some time to dry out:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3333/4614589757_591a8ec521_b.jpg

Then i roughly shaped them from patterns, and planed them down to the right thickness:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4013/4614588867_f4c862ce85_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4615207404_a8ed1a2967.jpg

Then I adjusted them to the boat -in situ:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4023/4614590107_6e54e357d4_b.jpg

End result before bolting:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4615208350_d11231395e.jpg

[svaap]

The iroko was measured to be aprox 11% humidity, so I decided to start milling down to 60mm x 40mm:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3414/4614572231_6136339cfd_b.jpg

A nice and cold day - 20 degr Celcius....

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4614571973_02f62b9933_b.jpg

I was lucky to get big lenghts, almost all the planks are 8 metres long...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4615192006_3b11c9b5dd_b.jpg

Awaiting their final destination in the workshop:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4615192618_2435f41b6d.jpg

[PeterSibley]

SVAAP ,inspirational ! I have a large project in my workshop and to see your progress and success is really uplifting !

[svaap]

Thanks Rob!

I truely love the process.

Measuring the symmetry of the deck took some time.
I had a "bulb" that I had to compensate for when laying the deck.
After measuring out the positioning of the first plank, I started cutting on the expensive wood...

Using full lenghts of iroko makes is a bit challanging to fit the planks, as they are nibbed to the covering-board and needs to be of precise length.

When I got started, it was merely routine but I still use over 3 hrs per plank (and that is a lot less than when I started... )

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4602177514_a9374846dd_b.jpg

Fitted two heavy oak-posts for fastening the metal-rod for the main-sheet (do not know the name for it..)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3389/4602182790_d0c9616a5a_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4601562553_0e2a4f4042_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4602204736_fbcd5ccdc5_b.jpg

[peter radclyffe]

great

[svaap]

GRATULERER MED DAGEN!!


Will raise a Hansa to you tonight!


Thanks!

May 17th is Norways national day... still celebrating !!

[Eric D]

Wow, as has been said many times, great effort, thanks for sharing!!!

[Dana Marlin]

I love heavily built boats!! Can you give us some highlights of the scantlings you used?

[svaap]

These boats are quite heavily built.

I guess my SVAAP will weigh about 10,5 tons.

Some dimensions:

Frames: doubble 4x4" pine (grown/sawn)
Stem/stern: 5" and 6" oak
Keel: 13 1/2"x 5" oak
Planking hull: 1 3/5" pine
Beamshelf: 2 1/2" x 5" oak
Deck-beams: 3 3/5" x 3 3/5" oak
Main mast-beam: 5" x 3 3/5" oak
Covering-board: 2" by aprox 4 1/2" oak
Deck: 1 3/5" x 2 3/5" iroko

Mast: aprox 21cm (8 1/2") ca 13 m tapered
Lead keel: 3 tons

The beam is just over 3 metres, so she is quite narrow for this type. The draft is 6 feet.
LOA just over 30 feet. (plus bowsprit)

[chuckt]

Thanks for pics on the stump to knee transition. I was very curious how you did it. Bravo

Wow. Your boat is quite a tank. Was she built to withstand ice ?

[Phil Y]

WOW!

[svaap]

What is the currency they are using ?, is it the Euro ?.
http://www.finn.no/finn/boat/used/result?sort=0&keyboard=ColinArcher&BOAT_CLASS=2188&page=2
Regards Rob J.

Hi!

The currency for the ads is NOK (Norwegian Kroners)

[WX]

I admire your tenacity, you had to overcome some serious problems there. You should be very proud of your work.
-20 degrees C eh? I'm glad I live where I do....I grumble when it gets down to 10 degrees C at night.:D

[svaap]

-20 degrees C eh? I'm glad I live where I do....I grumble when it gets down to 10 degrees C at night.:D

This winter was very cold -the coldest for over 80 years.
We had -30 -25 degr C for almost a month....
And I am working in a unheated workshop (Brrrrr).

Had no time to stop thinking or measuring outside.. Had to do the thinking inside, and work like hell to keep warm outside!

:o

[Cliff B]

The engine is in fact Norwegian -a SABB (no, not like the cars Saab).

It is a two-cylinder engine of massive 22HK pushed through a 420 kilo lump of metal...
I chose it because of it's reliability and also it's sound (!)...

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1120/4603347985_31e19ff3f3_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4603965878_48b875aba0_b.jpg

Later, I created fixed points for the prop-shaft alignment, to be able to drill the hole through the new sternpost.

After drilling a pilot-hole, I made a similar jig on the outside of the boat, making shure it corresponded with the angle of the engine on it's bedding.

A picture of the drilling:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1073/4603353173_d37809c767_o.jpg

And a rough assembly of the propel -a two-bladed variable pitch with 62cm diameter:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1024/4603353237_f18d3f4aa8_o.jpg

The sternpost and aperture for the propel was later adjusted/faired.

Now it was time to start on the interiour.
SVAAP is a relatively small boat, and I needed to take that into consideration when arranging the interiour.

I wanted a fixed bunk in the forward part of the boat, and also wanted the galley to be in the rear of the cabin.

A centre, foldable table with seats on both sides was also on the "I would like-list". Now it was a question of -is there room for all this?

I started in the front of the boat with the sleeping-quarters:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3387/4603970136_8b89d9ce94_b.jpg

I wanted to paint the panelling, leaving some details of varnished maghogany

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3324/4603972566_a25c2c790e_b.jpg

Next will be the oven and galley..



Are the Sabb 1 and 2 cylinders still being built? Are they available new, or just not exported from Norway anymore?

[svaap]

Hi!

The one and two-cylinder engines are not in production, as far as I know. But they still provide all spare-parts (if needed).

These engines were built to run all day long -as a engine designed mainly for the fishing-fleet. They are very reliable.
No problem to get them -as they are often replaced due to their vibrations -they really punch hard when running!

Slow running, hard cycle.. almost like a good old semi-diesel..

[mmd]

Hey, I was a babbling fan as soon as I saw the shouldered, full-dovetail deck beam connections! You don't know how many professional boatbuilders I have suggested that to who whine and cry for "an easier way"...

Very nice work, svaap.

[BillBerger]

I am amazed and in complete awe!

She's beautiful and built take Mother Natures toughest.

[svaap]

Your boat is quite a tank. Was she built to withstand ice ?

She was not built to withstand ice, and is acually not more strongly built than most of the vessels of her type.
The Norwegian shore-line is quite tough, and boats designed to operate in all conditions in these waters needs to be quite tough.

[Michael D. Storey]

This is my favorite boat resto thread pix album of all that I have seen.

In the face of huge inhumanity in the world, I can look at the story of your boat, and see art and civility.

[JormaS]

Hi Svaap,

I'm full of admiration; you're doing a great job and you're probably rescuing a piece of history. I myself am in the process of donating my 40 ft Colin Archer (built at Lista, Norway, in 1975) to the local Sea Rescue organization for use as a platform for youth training. These are lovely boats with a very special charm.

I got interested in your deck and was wondering how you're going to caulk the seams -- now that we have so many more alternatives than the earlier generations had. The same goes for surface treatment like paints and varnishes etc.

All the best, Svaap!:)

[svaap]

Thank you for all your kind comments!!

As for the chaulking -I will use cotton strands driven hard into the seams. The planking is 40 mm and has a wedge-shaped opening that ends up closed 2/3 of the thickness.

It will be topped by some sort of seam-compound (Sikaflex?).
It's a shame we can not get Arbocol anymore -a superiour compound!


The picure below shows the last deck-beam being installed.
I waited to install this half-beam to make passage to the foredeck a bit easier. But now it was time to get it down, as the deck is meeting the beam any time now...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4645353583_fc87e9f92b_b.jpg

This beam was let into the carlin with "half-on-half joinery"

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/4645352289_7ecee19d81_b.jpg

On the port side, I've reached the carling and will not have to fight with 8 metre lenghts anymore, as I will do the fore and aft-deck.

This will speed up the progress a bit:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4645973084_276f2ca379_b.jpg

The inner plank is exceeding the carling a bit, and will be planed to match with the profile of the inside of the carling.
I will measure the correct angle and do it with a powerplane and handplane.


The picture below is from one of the old half-beams.
Although poor quality-picture, you can see the close grains.
This is very slow-grown pine, very rot-resistant!

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1110/4609224029_8e061ce11d_b.jpg

As I could not get this quality of pine, I decided to use oak on all the new beams.

[chuckt]

Hey--is that a dinghy hanging in the corner? Looks interesting

[svaap]

It is a small mahogany dinghy -a cutter design copper riveted.

Got it for $150 as it has a damage to the planking on the port side.

I will replace a couple of planks, sand it down and give it some coates of varnish.

Handsome little boat!

[ILikeRust]

Damn, that is one seriously stout boat you're building! Fantastic work; thanks very much for sharing!

[JormaS]

Your deck seams look like they are narrower than in the old deck. Their width seem to vary between maybe 2 and 5 mm. Are you going to rout them to a uniform width? I was thinking of how to accommodate the seam compound.

[svaap]

The seams will be 4mm when finished.
I need to open some of them slightly to get them uniform.

:)

[wizbang 13]

Great Job!!

[JormaS]

The seams will be 4mm when finished.
I need to open some of them slightly to get them uniform.:)

Do you have a seam compound in mind? I think the manufacturers of polyurethane sealants like Sika, 3M and a multitude of others recommend a seam width to plank width ratio of 1 : 10. They have their reasons. In your case, the iroko planks are probably not going to shrink and swell a lot, so you might get away with a narrower seam.

When deciding on the seam dimensions, it's always good to know one's reasons. Often they are mainly aesthetic ones..:rolleyes:.

[svaap]

I think I will use some sort of Sika-product, and I know their recomendations to be like you mention.

Think this got to do with the neccessity of some width for the compound to be able to move (stretch/shrink) according to the manufacturers spesifications.

As you say, the iroko planks are fairly stable and I think I can get away with a bit narrower seams than specified.

I have consulted a boatbulder on the topic and he thought it would be best with 4mm seams.
I hope for the best.....:)

This is a picture of my uncles boat -a 32 feet Colin Archer design.
The seams on his deck is also 4mm wide and the deck (iroko) was layed in 1974 -still tight:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4649219635_730886d231_b.jpg

[JormaS]

I wonder why he says 4 mm would be best. Normally, I think a wider seam is always better than a narrow one because the stress on the compound's glue line is then lesser. But if we think there will be no movement, it doesn't really matter what we put in the seam, as long as it can resist the elements, mainly UV-radiation.

Your uncle's seams are probably polysulfide. I don't think any known polyurethane could stay that good for over 30 years. A good silicone sealant could maybe do it, but I don't think there were any in the seventies.

[svaap]

Hi Jorma:

I'm sorry for misleading you -the seams on my uncles boat have been replaced, but the deck is not leaking -so I think using the same width on the seams will be sufficient.

But I am depending on information from others here -as I have not done this before....

Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

[JormaS]

:)
Jorma

[svaap]

Progress is a bit slow these days... -but some progress is better than no progress.... :-)

The planks in the foredeck is going in a lot faster than the full-lenght planks.
I use aprox 1,5 hrs from start to screwed down boards, and that makes room for visible progress in a working session -between other duties.

In addition to a full-time office job, we have duties at home with 30 horses to attend, and also a lot of work on maintaining the buildings on the farm.
Soon we are to harvest grass for our animals, wich leaves little room for "boat-exercise".

Still -some progress is documented:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4706851141_3124193d7e_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4706847061_a4d4405319_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4707496228_ed44cfe1a5_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4013/4706840285_988b38fbec_b.jpg

If I could work a couple of hours 3-4 days a week, I would lay the remaining deck within 2 weeks.

Time will show when it's done...

-Bye for now!

[svaap]

Thanks Portland!

We have different rases or horses, ranging from small Shetland Ponies, Iceland horses, Arabs, different Welsch types to larger working horses.

My wife is running a riding-school with focus on NH principles.

[svaap]

I have made some progress since the last posting:

The fore-deck is "closing" -at least rear of the hatch that will be constructed shortly:

Pictures:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1033/4733596411_9c580e8edb_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1259/4733613845_3ab1022c9b_b.jpg

I don't have the neccessary oak for the superstructure, and I am struggling to get decent planks to work with.

The connections between the sides and the front/rear will be joined with what we call "sink-connections" -a bit similar to "dovetail joinery".

This calls for dry and stable stock, wich I am without...
Hope to find suitable wood shortly...

I am quite happy with how the deck appears.


Cheers!!

[svaap]

It's been a while since the last update and some progress has been made.

The deck is completed, and I am soon to start the chaulking of the seams.
I have purchased cotton for the seams, to be driven hard between the planks. I think I will use some sort of Sikaflex product to top up the cotton.

I struggeled a bit to make the framing for the hatch on the fore-deck (most of all to find the proper wood for it..)

There was a very pleasant guy that contacted me, saying that he had some oak lying on a barn.
It had been stored there since 1952 (!) and was bone-dry.
As you can imagine -all internal stresses was gone, and the timber was really dried out without any checks.
It was like having birthday, christmas and easter all at the same time...
The dimensions was sufficient for both hatches and the superstructure soon to be built.

I was truely a happy man!

Some pictures of the making of the hatch:

984

Hmmm.... Why can I only post small pictures?

I don't think the files are any bigger than before....

Pictures coming as soon as I know how to insert them

:-)

[chuckt]

Wow! What a great find on that oak. Looking forward to more pictures. Don't know why they are turning out small for you.

[wizbang 13]

I think you need to un-check the little green check in the wee box "retrieve remote file..." ,cuz I sure like lookin' at yer boat.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

What a great thread.... thanks for sharing your project Svaap..:)

[Larks]

It's been a while since the last update and some progress has been made.

The deck is completed, and I am soon to start the chaulking of the seams.
I have purchased cotton for the seams, to be driven hard between the planks. I think I will use some sort of Sikaflex product to top up the cotton.

I struggeled a bit to make the framing for the hatch on the fore-deck (most of all to find the proper wood for it..)

There was a very pleasant guy that contacted me, saying that he had some oak lying on a barn.
It had been stored there since 1952 (!) and was bone-dry.
As you can imagine -all internal stresses was gone, and the timber was really dried out without any checks.
It was like having birthday, christmas and easter all at the same time...
The dimensions was sufficient for both hatches and the superstructure soon to be built.

I was truely a happy man!

Some pictures of the making of the hatch:

984

Hmmm.... Why can I only post small pictures?

I don't think the files are any bigger than before....

Pictures coming as soon as I know how to insert them

:-)

If you have access to Fixtech products you may find them worth considering for your deck seams, or something of a similar makeup, their products seem to be more popular than Sika' products around here commercially for deck seams and window/port installations and deck fittings and the like. Because the Fixtech is not a solvent based product, once it cures it (supposedly) then stays at the same consistency rather than continuing to dry out over life and go brittle like Sika eventually seems to do. If the Fixtech isn't available there you may be able to find another product of a similar type.

[svaap]

Larks:

Fixtech products seems interesting, but as far as I could see they are not represented in Europe?
I will send an e mail, asking for the possiblillity of importing a few cases of their seam-compound.

Thanks for your recomendation!

Still struggling to import pictures -they all come out too big... (Didn't have that problem earlier..)
Anyone with a solution??

[m2c1Iw]

Still struggling to import pictures -they all come out too big... (Didn't have that problem earlier..)
Anyone with a solution??

Try unchecking the file transfer box had me tricked for a while.

[svaap]

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/4841545906_52fbfbc69b_b.jpg


Thanks a lot.....problem solved!!

I will post pictures of the process of making the hatch-framing.

[svaap]

The hatch gives access to the berth in the bow of the boat.
This area does not have a superstructure -it is just the deck-height, and this limits the space in the forward of the boat.

A hatch gives some more roomy feeling and more importantly, it will function as an emergency escape through the forward of the boat as well.

Bone-dry oak was planned and cut with the upmost care and attention -almost feeling a religious touch with the wood....trying not to make any errors..

It is constructed in two layers (upwards).

The first layer is going parallel to the beams, and just above the deck-planking:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4749447553_53c383196e_b.jpg

And the mating part:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4749451055_8ab6497fcd_b.jpg

Dry fitted together:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4749452737_e19a849bf8_b.jpg

And installed to the beams:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4750074152_70337c40ed_b.jpg

More coming...

[svaap]

After the sides were installed, I moved on to the next "layer" of the hatch.

I wanted a curved top of the framing, with a hinghed lid following the same curvator. This was chosen by aestetic reasons, and gives away the fact that I am doing this for the first time....it got a bit confusing how to make the mechanics of the hinghes go right... (head-scratching hours).

The hatch will also follow the waterline of the boat, making it higher in the back than the front.

Some pictures of the next layer, and a mistake I was about to make...
The joinery in the pictures to come is "open" and will not lock the timbers to each other like it should...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/4840869997_e62edb8346_b.jpg

Mating parts joined, after carefully fitting (still wrong of course....)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4840873705_000a3d361e_b.jpg

Then I discovered my mistake....what a waste of prescious wood and time..

Luckily I had not cut the sidewalls to their final lenght, and was able to re-use the parts by flipping them to the other side.
Had to cut the joinery again, because the back-wall is leaning a bit forward to catch up with the angle of the "sampson-post" for the bowsprit.

I try to keep the wood as long as possible as long as possible, and this time it payed out.

Trying to correct my mistake I found myself making an exact copy of my error -can you believe it (!).

The third attempt was succesful though, but what a feeling to cut such precious wood the wrong way..

Here are my attempts:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4840894467_178267a322_b.jpg


...and finally adjusting the sidewalls:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/4841506854_f94526d2c0_b.jpg

[svaap]

Cutting the wood after all my mistakes was nerve-wrecking, and I really had to think things over a few times before I dared to start cutting...

Now I got it right, and was happy with how it turned out with the parts dry-fitted before glueing:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/4841500342_5b5bc31863_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/4841492732_3de0200a23_b.jpg


To make the two layers bond better, I routed a groove on both layers, and fitted a spline to strenghten the joint.
This would be glued with epoxy later:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4091/4841496694_2b26b66cc9_b.jpg

Using masking tape I could glue without spilling to much...
(I really hate working with epoxy, but love the strenght and the end-result)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/4841495802_77e037e23d_b.jpg

After wetting-out the surfaces a couple of times, I went for the thick goo in the end (with a lot of messy spilling..)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/4841522330_4f5e74e811_b.jpg

[svaap]

After the glue had cured I got my belt-sander working, and was soon happy to see that it came out ok in the end... (Cheers)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4840912347_d206bd7a2e_b.jpg

Now I have to move my attention to the hatch itself.
This will be about 40mm high and probably with a plywood lid covered with 10 by 65mm strips of iroko, laid in epoxy.

The hinghes will be mounted on sockets that are horisontally flat on the curved lid, to enable them to move freely.
They will be anchored by stout blocks mounted on the deck forward of the hatch.

Will it be watertight??
Hopefully by either routing out a groove in the framing and the lid that locks the two parts together, making the distance longer for the water to penetrate, or by routing out grooves for a heavy-duty gaskes to be compressed by the lid.

Time will show....

Bye for now

[chuckt]

Very nice work. One of my favorite threads to watch.

Just noticed you keep horses. We do too. Our own three and we board 12 others so I understand the interuptions that the barn operations cause. I find I resent the inevitable farm projects that pop up--I didn't mind them so much before my boat project arrived. Ours are show hunters with a couple of jumpers--mostly Warmbloods or Thoroughbreds.

[svaap]

Hi Chuck!

Thanks for the compliments!

I find harvesting the grass for our horses to be very rewarding. (and also a bit exciting)
We are in need of a lot of grass of high quality to meet the winter feeding.
This year our first "batch or cut" was poor. Cold spring slowed down the growth on our fields.
However, I think we will get a decent "second batch".

We have 29 horses on our stable (not all on boxes).

Farming, boatbuilding and a office job, gives a nice balance I think.
(although It can be too much at times...)

[chuckt]

Oh! I have lusted many years for a mower, tedder, and baler to go with my tractor and do my own hay but, lacking the hay fields as well, could not justify the cost.

Your beautiful country is on my list of places to visit--there were some very nice air fares earlier in the year but we had other commitments

[svaap]

The Norwegian geography can be spectalular, but we often get dissapointing temperatures during the summer.
We had some our our vacation in the norther parts, and got 3 days of good weather. Not bad out of 5 days, but it was the only 3 days in all of July month :-(

My wife is very eager to visit the States for a horse-camping holiday.
Riding a distance, and camping in a tent or under the open sky.....sounds like the movies.

We are discussing such a holiday next year.

[Driver Mark]

Seeing the photos of your work makes me ashamed of my wood butchery. I feel I'm in the presents of greatness. :)

[Larks]

Will it be watertight??
Hopefully by either routing out a groove in the framing and the lid that locks the two parts together, making the distance longer for the water to penetrate, or by routing out grooves for a heavy-duty gaskes to be compressed by the lid.

Time will show....

Bye for now

Could you fit an inside lip to yout hatch from the same timber but half the width and maybe 30mm high, with the opposite on the hatch cover to close over it?

[P.L.Lenihan]

It is very instructive to see such wonderful traditional construction occuring.Thank you for taking the time to post good pictures of your progress svaap!


Cheers!


Peter

[chuckt]

Is there a reason most boat builders dont do such joints? I suppose the obvious answer is the extra time. Seems like it would give you a better joint.

On your horse trip, there are lots of wonderful places to go--mainly out West and mainly in the National Parks. Unless what you are looking for is a cattle drive kind of experience. Also on our list of things to do.

[svaap]

A lid would probably be a good alternative to help make the hatch watertight.

I really have to look actively on how deck-hatches are constructed on other boats (seagoing).

I think the joinery on the corners of the hatch-frame isn't that unusual?
Such a joint will probably be stronger than 45degr flat-on, but as pointed out -it takes a bit more time to make.

I think it looks good.

Will use similar technique when assembling the casing (deck-structure) later on -then hopefully without any wrong cuts on those large timbers..

[Tom Freeman]

I've just found your thread, and I'm admiring your lovely carpentry work. Thanks for sharing it!

Tom

[svaap]

Thanks Tom,

I live my life under the same principle as you have in your "signature"... (Learning on the job)...

(Find myself doing things twice -or more- to get i right)

[svaap]

Hi folks!

I am soon to start caulking the decks with cotton strands.
Are there any rules as to where to start? (In the centre, working outwards or from the sides, working towards the centre)?

Thanks for your input.

[JayInOz]

Svaap you start by setting up the camera:) JayInOz

[svaap]

He he.... Will do so ;-)

Today I have sanded the entire deck with a monstrous belt-sander.

It is huge -3 phase, 1,5 kW weighing aprox 10-15 kg (!!) and takes a bit of effort and respect to operate.
The underside is fittet with a frame, to prevent the paper from "digging into" the wood.

Took 2 hrs to completely sand the deck, devided into two sessions in order to gather strenght... (Phew)

Will post some pictures later this afternoon.

[svaap]

Sometimes I really feel like I'm born in the wrong century....

Trying to post pictures again, but somethings changed (again), and I am getting nowhere.....

[svaap]

Hi again folks,

Making progress, but unable to post pictures on the forum.

Have tried different picture-hosts (Photobucket and Flickr) but all I get are red crosses.... arrrrgh!!

Please help lost boatbuilder.....

[Tom Freeman]

I got stuck when the system changed as well, and then someone told me to Go to the From URL tab, paste the correct location and then uncheck the box that says "Retrieve remote file and reference locally ".

That last step was giving me problems.

[svaap]

Thanks, but I have tried that allready...red cross...

[Duncan Gibbs]

Svaap, I use Picture trail. It has a whole variety of options under a menu item called "Get Image URLs" including the forums ... tag. If you can find that all you need to do is cut and paste it into your post.

An alternative is to right click on the full sized image on your image hosting site and copy the image address. Then use the http://forum.woodenboat.com/images/editor/insertimage.png button above and paste the address into the dialogue box.

Looking forward to the next instalments! :)

[svaap]

Picturetrail:



http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391825884.jpg

Success!!!

This is the "Direct Image Link"..

Will update my postings later today..

Thanks for helping!

[svaap]

After finishing the hatch-framing, I went on preparing the deck-seams for caulking.

This involved routing the top of the seams with a rectangular bit of 5 mm diameter. This was controlled by a batten screwed down on the "neighbour" seam. The areas not accessible was scraped by hand.

I needed to fit the forward end of the casing, in order to be able to caulk the planking butting in this part.

The same went for the back end of the cockpit arrangements.


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391845729.jpg

After assembling the cockpit


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391845790.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391845798.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391846470.jpg

To be continued....

[svaap]

After mixing and applying the epoxy-goo..

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391846478.jpg

The front of the casing was boltet through the mast-beam with copper bolts:

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391848012.jpg

The outer bolts went through the main knee

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391848037.jpg


Now everything was ready for caulking the first strand of cotton.
This would be deeply embedded into the seam, tightly wedged down.

The tools of the trade

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391846338.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/391846446.jpg

[donald branscom]

Thanks for posting your photos.
WOW!!!
It is so cold there all I would be able to do is look out a window and dream of going outside.
The workmanship is outstanding.

[svaap]

I have finished caulking the seams with the second strand of cotton.

It appears to be tightly in the seams, and hopefully will be watertight.


Last week I started paying the seams with "Simson" caulking compound


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/392136254.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/392136252.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/392136251.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/392136249.jpg


The aft deck is completed.

Only port side remaining before I can start sanding off the excess compound.

Looks good I think.

[Rich Jones]

Absolutely stunning craftsmenship! It'll be a wonderful day when the boat finally gets wet.

[svaap]

....Yes, IF it floates... ;)

[svaap]

I bought a chaulking-gun that has worked out just fine (so far).

Makes it easier to get an even string of compound, at the same time as it saves my arms a bit...


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/392143118.jpg


Here the aft deck

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/392143092.jpg



Here is a model I have hanging in the workshop -for inspiration.

This is a model of the "Colin Archer", wich I started building 20 yrs ago...

Hopefully I will complete SVAAP ...


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/392143133.jpg


The hull is of similar design as SVAAP.

[Matt Billey]

Nice work on the deck caulking. What do you plan put on the deck for a finish?

And that's a really great Colin Archer model. How big is it?

Matt

[svaap]

Hi Matt and thanks!

The covering boards and the kingplank will be varnished.
The iroko planks will be left bare.


The model is about 75 cm long.

[Dana Marlin]

Iroko decks - I've not heard much about that. I suppose it makes sense since Iroko is like a poor man's teak, but any ideas how it fares overall? Any pros and cons that you are aware of?

Dana

[Dana Marlin]

Svaap, are you planning on putting that wooden rail that was originally on the boat back? I noticed your caprail is flush now.

[svaap]

Hi Dana!

I have no experience of iroko myself, but I have seen iroko on a boat built in 1974 (left bare), and it looks like teak, and is still sound and watertight.
I hope for the best....

The wooden rail will be rebuilt with a similar design, although the posts will not go through the covering-boards.
They will be seated into bronze sockets, with a long bolt going through the posts/socket/covering-board with a large washer and nut on the underside of the covering-board.
The motivation for such a solution, is to prevent (hopefully) leakage if the post receive a punch/blow of some sort. I'd rather have a bend bolt than a through post that shifts and the probablility of leakage is high..




I have made the template for the casting, and will have them done during october. I was suprised about the price of casting (positively). Only $ 20 per kg (material included).
How are these prices compared to what you have to pay?

[Dana Marlin]

Hi Svaap,

I agree, Iroko is a great wood and not all that expensive, but the only drawback I know of is actually working with it since the dust is quite toxic. It seems to affect some poeple more than others and by the sounds of it you don't appear to have any of problems. I know at least one shipwright that walked off a job because he refused to work with Iroko. Having said that it is a strong wood and also appears to not be very tasty to woodworm or rot and the like so it is a good wood to leave untreated. It does darken over time and may give the decks a nice look. I'd like to see how your decks turn out when the boat is all ready and afloat.

Your idea for the bolts sounds good to me. Anything that can be removed easily to be replaced or fixed is a good idea in my books. I don't know anything about casting prices but that sounds reasonable, however, each piece must weight about 2-3kg no? In any case, sounds like a good option.

Great work. I really enjoy watching the progress to your boat

Dana

[svaap]

Hi Svaap,

.... each piece must weight about 2-3kg no?

Dana


Hi Dana,


The posts will be 3" by 3", and the sockets will have 10mm thickness and height, and a 2mm thick bottom plate.

I will cast 24 of them (12 at each side), and the total weight of these will be 9,7 kg.

My experience with iroko is that it dulls my tools quite quickly, and I must admit that I have experienced some airway-trouble after sanding the wood.
I did not know it could be toxic (?)
That said, I find pine to be more of a trouble for the airways... (for me at least)

I am much more aware of the importance of using protective equipment...

[donald branscom]

I bet that toilet box will become storage some day.
It looks like it would be impossible to keep clean.
All the hoses and valves too.
You will have a 5 gallon plastic bucket hidden away somewhere that you can
easily take to the shore side bathroom and empty.
Just put a couple capfuls of bleach in the bottom.

[svaap]

It’s been a while since I last posted on this thread.

Mainly because I am struggling with downloading pictures…
I am (now) using “Picturetrail” and It’s worked out fine, but now I need to upgrade my account.
500 pictures for $19,95 –OK I can live with that.
Downloaded 7 more pictures –“You have exceeded your account-limit” What??
Please upgrade to the next level (No way)

Tried to delete some pictures, only to find out that they disappear from the thread..

Well my friends; I will post the remaining pictures that I managed to download, and then I will focus on building rather than struggling with my computer and get frustrated..

This is from glueing when temperatures are low using infra-red lightbulb. The glue-job was for the cockpit coaming:

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/393321756.jpg


Paying the deck-seams are done, and I also have cut off the excess seam-compond and sanded the whole lot.

This was quite a lot of work, but the end-result was quite awarding I think

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/393321759.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/393321817.jpg



Then I started on the coamings for the superstructure.
As I mentioned earlier, the oak for this construction has been stored on a barn since 1952 (!) and I must admit it is a bit nerve-wrecking to work on it...

Here I am planing the massive planks

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/393321818.jpg


Lifted onto the deck

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/393321821.jpg


Have to post now (isn't it a limit at 5 pictures for posting??)

....Will post more....

[svaap]

I also cut the heavy posts on the aft deck to their final height, and roughly shaped them

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/393321820.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/393321819.jpg


I have decided to replace the engine -not because there is any problems with it, but because my uncle has decided to replace his SABB 30 hp with a 4 cyl 55 hp engine.

His SABB 30hp is in great shape, and the extra hp will be good to have as extra power. This boat will weigh about 10 tons.

To be able to do so, I needed to take the boat out of the shop (a project in itself...)

I needed to cut away some of the roof construction, and also parts of the end-wall of my shop, but It came out in the end. (I must admit, I am quite nervous when moving her out. The craddle is NOT certified at all...)

Here are my final pictures, showing her escape out of the shop (the day it lasted..)


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23574300/393322187.jpg

Not very pretty paint-job, but the lines are ok


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23574300/393322190.jpg


I am satisfied with the curves of the planking on the deck!


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23574300/393322189.jpg


A shot showing her from above (screensaver on my computer..)


http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23574300/393322188.jpg


Removing the engine went well, and so did the return into the workshop.

I have jacked her up, so that her waterline is leveled to the ground.

Currently working on assembling the superstructure.


If you have any suggestions to how I can post pictures without spending a lot of money, I would be very happy.

Is it the size of my pictures?


Bye for now!!

[Peacefuljourney]

Nice boat line and nice work.

[GWB]

Beautiful!

[headonz]

"If you have any suggestions to how I can post pictures without spending a lot of money, I would be very happy.

Is it the size of my pictures ?"

PBase , great deal and the storage space keeps increasing ,I think it was 500mbs now 800mbs for the same price so I havent sent them money for a long time.

It would be a great record of all your hard work and once you get sailing an on going web site of your adventures.

http://www.pbase.com/message.html

[Tom Freeman]

Microsoft has a great free photo storage service at http://www.live.com That is where I store all of my photos.

[svaap]

I would like to wish you all a Merry Christmas!!

This is a forum I enjoy on a daily basis -Thanks for all great input!!!

[Duncan Gibbs]

And Merry Christmas to you Svaap, and thank you for your invaluable input to this forum with your magnificent rebuild!

[Lucky Luke]

I am satisfied with the curves of the planking on the deck!.....

And you can be! You've done it just right!



.......If you have any suggestions to how I can post pictures without spending a lot of money, I would be very happy.
Is it the size of my pictures?


Personally, I use "photobucket" and am quite happy with it. At first, I used the free account, which not only limited the size of the pictures but also their number and the allowed bandwidth. As far as the size of pictures on the free account is concerned, that was OK since I limit the size of the pictures I post to 800 pixel wide anyway, which the free account permitted, but the number of pictures I hosted there exceeded the limit allowed (I don't remember how much is was) and also the bandwidth went right up due to the frequent visits on the thread about the schooner in Vietnam and the "sticky" position (thank you Webmaster!) of this thread.
I then upgraded to the also called "pro" account for something like 10 or a bit more US$ / year, giving me unlimited storage and also 2.5 GB of bandwidth monthly. Pictures are also kept (and displayed) in much higher size, if I want to, but I prefer to stay with this reasonable size in order to make their download faster for viewers.
If this info can help.....

Great job, and merry Christmas to you
Since you live close to Santa Klaus, say him hello for me if you happen to cross roads with him (at -25deg., you use reindeers instead of cars, don't you?) ;)

[svaap]

Tried Photobucket again....

Back in business!!

Should probably reduce the size of the image..


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/21122010012.jpg

[Thad]

Looking Great!! Happy New Year!!!

[Lucky Luke]

Tried Photobucket again....

....Should probably reduce the size of the image..

your picture is reduced to 800 x 600 by Photobucket: seems a good enough size to show details and not big enough to slow the download. That is the size I use, and think it's all right.

About your joint: good to put a (bronze or copper?) dowel through the dovetail joint: good ship building practice there:)...although the proportions of your dovetail joint are a bit wrong (very little wood left in the upper part of the joint)...but never mind: it will not fall apart!

Keep on the good work!

[svaap]

Thanks Luke!

The picture is maybe a bit confusing, but it is not a dovetail. I do not know the english word for it, but we call it "nove" wich practically is a way to build layer on layer but securing the parts from wanting to open up.

This picture illustrates the joint

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/021.jpg


The upper layer is half-on-half joined and will be secured with a screw in addition to the glueline

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/28102010002.jpg

Also screwed down

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/28102010001.jpg

I made corner-posts out of oak.
These would be rounded off on the inside

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/28102010010.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/09122010025.jpg

[svaap]

I started planing the oak for the cabin-sides to their right thickness.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/29102010004.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/29102010009.jpg


And got the heavy planks onboard for final measurements.
I made a plywood-template before cutting

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/29102010018.jpg


Fitting the planks to their final position was quite tricky...

When bent to their curve, they fill out the exact lenght of the opening between the beams. This called for some prebending to get the plank in place.

Would be good to have a helper in such manouvres...
(Picture taken after the chaos was over)

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/31102010003.jpg


I initially thought about joining these sides to their mating front and back-wall with dovetails, but to be honest -I know I would mess it up and dare not to attempt this.

So I am going for a corner-post.

If I had the right dimensions of oak to do these in one peace, I would.
But I had to make som adjustments there, and make the post i a glued up two-piece style.

A simple drawing

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12112010004.jpg

[svaap]

I cut out the neccessary wood from the front-wall and the side-wall to allow for the beam to be fitted.

This is only a test-fit to be able to mark out the lines of the inner-joint for the seccond part (the B part) of the post

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13112010006.jpg


Did the same thing on all 4 corners

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/29112010002.jpg


In the back of the superstructure, I am building a sliding-hatch, but I will not make traditionally made doors.

I will let the lower section of this area a full-lenght plank, making a barriere for waves making their way into the cockpit. The "door" will be one-piece, hinghed on the lower side to this plank.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02122010010.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02122010011.jpg


Still waiting for the oak to build the seccond layer of the structure...

I made the bases for the winches.
These are also out of oak, and will be bolted to the cockpit-coaming.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/05122010008.jpg


These will be the foundation for my classic winches that I bought seccond-hand for a reasonable price

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/05122010010.jpg

[svaap]

I think this picture illustrates that we have low temperatures in our part of Norway these days (Brrrrr).

This is taken when we had -25 degr Celcius. (I don't know what that is in Fahrenheit, but it's quite cold to work outside)

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15122010010.jpg

[Pokey]

question? I like the deck plank joints I'm sure they have a name? and is there a jig you use or is it all hand done? I about to start planking my new boat and as been said before don't want to reinvent the wheel if there a stander proses all ready.
Thanks Pokey

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1078/13200953/23488089/393321817.jpg

[svaap]

The end of the planks are nibbed to the covering board.

The coveringboard is 10mm thicker than the deck-planks (50mm and 40mm), and the cut-out of the coveringboard is only 40mm deep leaving a 10mm shoulder for the nib to rest on. This is again supported with two 100mm 316 quality stainless steel screws + the nearest deckbeam.

The cutting was done by cirular-saw (with great caution) and a chisel. Quite a lot of work, but you get the speed up as you get familiar with the routine.

Best of luck!!

[svaap]

I received the castings from the foundry, based on this drawing.
http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/10102010002.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/27112010002.jpg

The cast was ok, but needed some touch-up, and I am lucky to be working in a company with a machining-centre. I had one of my collagues to help me clean out the parts to the final finish.
Will probably polish the parts before installing.



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/22122010015.jpg

I got hold of some oak to make some progress on the casing, and the stanchions.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15122010004.jpgThese were cut into 3x3” by 12” length. I will install 11 stanchions on each side.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15122010009.jpg


The heavy plank for the second layer of the superstructure, needed to be split with the saw-mill.
It is 4” thick and about 25” wide. It was a struggle to get it out for cutting.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19122010007.jpg

[svaap]

We live on a farm, and this summer we invested in a bandsaw-mill to be able to mill our own timbers and material for different purposes. This came in handy to split the heavy oak plank.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19122010010.jpg

It was a bit cold to get it running properly, but the Woodmizer delivered!


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19122010011.jpg

A couple of runs through the thickness-planer and I had my two planks at 40mm thickness.
http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19122010013.jpg

[svaap]

I always try to saturate the wood with raw linseed oil before installing.
If the part fit in my tray, I simply leave it there for a couple of weeks or so til it is completely soaked up.

Here are the foundations for the winches after glueing

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19122010006.jpg


On the right you can see my big "BILE" wich is a tool used to make the joints of timber buildings. The cutting surface is about 8" wide, and it is sharp as a shawing-blade.


Now the planks for the superstructure gets a soak-up of the end-grain.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/20122010015.jpg


To keep warm at these temperatures, we need to heat our house with our wood-stove. One of the benefits, or bi-products of making a wooden boat, is that it creates a lot of off-cuts....

So, I am heating our house with oak and iroko -feeling quite fancy!

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/21122010019.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/21122010040.jpg


MARRY CHRISTMAS to all of you!!!

[Tidahapah]

SVAAP,
Absolutely briliant thread.
You have done a wonderful job of restoration and rebuild and your timber work is magnificant.
We should all be indebited to you for the effort you have taken in presenting your work and love of timber to us.

Benn

[Lucky Luke]

The picture is maybe a bit confusing, but it is not a dovetail. I do not know the english word for it, but we call it "nove" wich practically is a way to build layer on layer but securing the parts from wanting to open up.

This picture illustrates the joint

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/021.jpg


OK! I had noticed this in one of your earlier pictures, and it is a corner joint that is used in the construction of log-houses, where the next "layer" locks the previous one....but not common in boat building, though!

[svaap]

Hi,

I actually adopted this tecnique from looking at other vessels, so they are not that uncommon practice here.
If used with multiple layers, the joints are staggered to lock the pieces effectively.

I have often seen these cut into a rabbeted corner-posts also, but I like taking the time to practice/improve my joinery-skills as these do not make themselves...

We are hoping to get headroom in the cabin of our boat, without a too dominant superstructure.
To get this, I was considering making the coach-roof out of two (or more) laminations of plywood, and skip the beams.

Does anyone have a comment on if this will be strong enough, and also how thick a lamination I should use?

PS! The coachroof will be 1,7 metres wide and 2,8 metres long, the radius is not determined yet but I guess the centre will be aprox 15 cm (6") higher than the sidewalls.

Appreciate some help on this, as it will influence my next step in building the superstructure.

[docboat]

Inspirational svaap - many thanks for so much information. I had better get started on my own project.

[svaap]

This afternoon I got a bit of sanding done on the framing of the hatch on the foredeck


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/27122010004.jpg

Rough-shaped the Samson-posts

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/27122010005.jpg


I put a small radius on the stanchions that corresponds to the inner radius of the bronze-casting.

The pencil-line is to illustrate the bolt that will fasten it to the covering board

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/27122010016.jpg

[Lucky Luke]

If you don't mind, just an opinion....

I really don't see the use of this bronze casing other than keeping the base of your stanchions in a permanently wet "cup"> rot...!!???!? Even with sealants, you will never be able to stop dampness from stagnating there.
If a piece is submitted to a "crunching" pressure, it is OK to clamp it all round with a metallic bracing, not to put it in such a "cup"...

The bolt through the gunnel/ covering board also looks able to damage this covering board if any serious effort is suffered by the bulwark, or at least to make it move so that you could get more severe leaks than what you fear by more traditional stanchions: small stanchions sistering the frames, passing through a slot in the covering board. No need for them to be big: if any shock, they will suffer, not the surrounding structure. If any leak: so what?: most easy to repair, specially with a "Scandinavian" bulwark that is at a distance from the deck and gives access for caulking all round the stanchions!

Your sampson posts would benefit of an end grain protection in the shape of a copper plate (or a bronze casing).

Just my two cents......

[Duncan Gibbs]

If the casting has a base that sits under the stanchion I would say, yes, that's a moisture trap.

I'd be interested in seeing a sectional detail of how it is proposed to work. Maybe the ring sits up top???

I note on Alex Low's Cockle replica his covering board was moulded and routed to drain the water well away from the join of the bulwark and the deck:

http://www.alexlow.ca/cockle/a033.jpg

Nice touch!

[Lucky Luke]

We are hoping to get headroom in the cabin of our boat, without a too dominant superstructure.
To get this, I was considering making the coach-roof out of two (or more) laminations of plywood, and skip the beams.
Does anyone have a comment on if this will be strong enough, and also how thick a lamination I should use?
PS! The coachroof will be 1,7 metres wide and 2,8 metres long, the radius is not determined yet but I guess the centre will be aprox 15 cm (6") higher than the sidewalls.


Yes, you can do that, but on a roof of that dimension and with little camber as the style of your boat commands, not easily with only a few layers of plywood (or cold molding). On that subject of the camber: 10% would be the highest acceptable= 17cm. So the 15 cm. that you envision should be OK.

Checking it the easy way : the most possible "flat" beams would be 50S x 20M @ 300 spacing with roof 15mm. thick. A cabin roof with the same momentum would be 20mm. thick= 2 x 10mm. plywood, or much better 3 x 6 with 300 g/m2 FRP in between each ply.

Do not forget that you are cutting the roof with your companionway and that you will anyway need at least a big "upside-down" beam at the end of it, something like 50s x 100M or more, with a cutaway underneath for this hatch and the slides.

Altogether, I feel the gain really insignificant (15mm!) and would even go for more conventional (slightly over-scantling) steam bent beams 30S x 35M @ 250 under a 16mm. roof (2 x 8mm. ply) + sheathing of the roof. Headroom loss= 31mm. = quite acceptable!

You choice ;)

[svaap]

Thanks for your comments!

The castings are with a baseplate -ie they can collect water/moisture if not neccessary measures are taken.

I must admit, I have been advised to use this solution, as a substitute for traditonally constructed stanchions that go through the covering board.
Your arguments makes sense to me, but I still think this solution will work as it is widely used on boats I have seen up here.

I have a couple of pictures of my uncles boat of similar design (poor photo-quality, taken with my mobile phone).

As you can see, similar shoes are used (these are galvanized steel), and a long bolt is tightening the stanchion towards the base of the shoe with a bolt that runs through the covering board, as described earlier.

The boat was built in 1974, and is in very good condition to this day

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/24022010002.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/24022010001.jpg

Sorry for poor quality of pictures...

I was planning on the following procedure:

When angles are cut, I will leave the lower end in a tray of raw linseed oil for some time. Then I will paint the end-grain with read lead paint, and make sure the socket is liberally covered with a seam-compound to keep water out.

I hope (and have faith in) that this will be ok.


Lucky Luke:
Thanks for your excellent comment on the coach-roof.
I need to go over this again, and try to make some drawings to visualize it.

My motivation is, as said, to get headroom without a too large/high superstructure, as I have seen too many nice boats destroyed this way.

IF I will not get a decent headroom with a solution that looks good to the eye, well then I don't get headroom.... :)

Thanks for your comment, I know you know your stuff Y>!

[svaap]

Happy New Year to you all!!!!


Regards from Norway!

[Soundman67]

Svaap, I had a thought about your ply only coach roof. what if your inside curve was greater than your outside curve. then put your framing in between but have the center or high point of the arch laminated tight. you would create a much stronger roof even it was only an inch thicker on the outside. you would be making a truss of sorts. you would gain your extra inch of headroom in the center where its needed the most. I am 6'3 so I am always looking for more headroom.

[svaap]

Thanks Soundman67 for your interesting alternative on gaining headroom.

I guess you mean that the inner radius is smaller than the outer?
Like a arched bridge-construction, with thicker sections towards the ends?

Have to model the height to get an impression on how high the sides will appear before I draw any conclusions.


Got the angles for the stancions cut the other day.
They have a 3 degree angle (at a vertical line) invards, to prevent them to be the first point of contact if I bump into something...

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/01012011008.jpg


They are not yet cut to their final height.

I contacted a boatyard 120 km south of where I live, to try to get hold of some oak for the capping rail (is that what the oak on top of the stanchions is called).

They are currently in the process of replanking a working wessel -in 2" oak, and have some impressively long and wide planks. Hopefully I can get what I need from their off-cuts :)


Picture below shows the lower and the upper layer of my cabin-sides.
They are joined by routing a groove in the mating surfaces, and a loose tounge that will be set in epoxy later.
I will also have vertical bolts that run through the whole section at suitable intervals.

The upper layer is not at all shaped at this point..

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/01012011009.jpg



Finally, I would like to show a picture of my next project...

I bought this lovely Koster-boat (Swedish design) to be able to sail while "SVAAP" is under construction.
This is a 25 feet boat, with a wonderful "personality". We love this boat, and have sailed her for some years. The boat is over a 100 years, and a lot of the underwater planking needs to be replaced, as does the keel and the stem.

A lot of ribs are new, and the deck-beams are in great condition (renewed in the 70's I believe). Topside planking also renewed.

It is gaff-rigged

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/01012011013.jpg

Will have no problems filling my spare-time for some years to come...

[P.L.Lenihan]

Hi Svaap,

I'm enjoying following your thread immensely and feel so good seeing all that snow in your latest pictures. I feel less crazy now!:D

As for your crowned(cambered?) roof, I'm no engineer or designer but how about this:laminate the roof top as thick as you wish(follow Luc's scantlings) but instead on interior coach roof beams, install a couple of beams(laminated or cut)on the outside of the roof and shape their ends to act as perhaps a craddle for a dinghy. These, in conjunction with your companionway structure and any other roof top opening structures, should be plenty to help maintain and strengthen your coach roof.

Just an idea.



Cheers!



Peter

[Sailor]

I hope some NA's chime in on that Tenner. It sounds like a great idea. I like it. As long as there's a dink to go on that roof or maybe some spare spars a la clipper ship style.....

[svaap]

Got the stanchions adjusted to fit the bronze castings, and also cut them to their right angles and lenghts.

Suddenly the boat looked a tad closer to finished...


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02012011005.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02012011003.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02012011011.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02012011016.jpg

[svaap]

Update:

The casing is constructed out of two layers and are bolted/glued together with a loose tenon in between layers. Copper-bolts reinforce the planks.

Some pictures of the work

Planing the planks:

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/23012011030.jpg

A simple jig makes the holes straight

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/26012011007.jpg

..trying to awoid holes out of centre

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/26012011009.jpg

Drilling the holes for the second layer

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/26012011014.jpg

Making bolts

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/29012011004.jpg

[svaap]

Preparing for the glue-up.

Had to take the planks into our house, to get proper temerature for the glue to cure. Trying not to mess up too much with that sticky epoxy...

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/29012011005.jpg


The planks was put under pressure to get the curvature they need when installed to the carlings

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/29012011011.jpg

After they had cured, I sanded off the excess glue

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/31012011003.jpg

The planks clamped in place

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/31012011005.jpg


Same thing with the front of the casing

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07022011001.jpg

[JayInOz]

I love this place :d JayInOz

[svaap]

The corner-posts consist of two layers -the outer and the inner.

The outer fitted, and cut to meet the inner post at the corner

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07022011010.jpg

Later shaped/rounded to be more pleasing to the eye




http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/08022011007.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/08022011002.jpgI

I cut a groove to fit a loose tenon between the casing and the post.
This will make a stronger fit, and also prohibit water to penetrate. Will be epoxy-glued

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07022011014.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07022011019.jpg

[svaap]

Then I fitted the inner posts and rounded them the same way.
These will be glued/bolted together.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/10022011005.jpg

Some adjustmens required still..

This picture is motivating to keep on working -the dream of steering her to sea, holding a nicely shaped tiller... I can't waite...

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/10022011013.jpg

I made templates for the "capping-rail" (is that the correct term for the curved plank sitting on top of the stanchions?)

Got lucky and received 4 nice, curved planks from Denmark to use when making these "rails"
The planks was 77 cm (31") wide and almost 5 metres long, with a nice curve corresponding to my templates! (Close to getting religious).

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12022011002.jpg

I recall that we had -28 degr Celcius this day.. (Brrr)

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13022011009.jpg


I got 3 planks out of the first one..

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/Bilde0762.jpg


Fitting the scarfs after close measurements (several times)..

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/20022011047.jpg

[svaap]

The first scarf transferred to the other plank:

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/20022011031.jpg


Getting there:

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/20022011034.jpg


Grooves will be cut to meet the tenons from the stanchions

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/20022011059.jpg



The planks will be rounded off with a 20mm radius router.
Consider making them a bit narrower (they are 115mm / 4,5" now).

This picture shows how lovely the grain corresponds with the curvature of the plank

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/20022011064.jpg

[Toxophilite]

Stunning!,
Just read the whole thread
Maybe someday I'll grow up to be just like you!!!
Fine fine work!

[Tom Freeman]

A pleasure to read and follow as always. Thanks for posting.

[Lew Barrett]

A real treat.

[chuckt]

Lovely indeed. Are the copper bolts normal for this kind of joinery instead of, say, ribs on the inside of the planking? I call them ribs--I bet there is a different word.

[svaap]

Thank you all for your nice comments!!

I think these bolts are quite normal for this purpose. Makes the planking more rigid if a swell knocks over the boat.
Have seen ribs too, but I think they interfere with the cleaner lines of "un-touched" wood, if you know what I mean..

[Pete Chiano]

It's interesting to note that there is no plywood in this build. So far the only modern materials used are epoxy and deck compound (I may have missed something).
It would be fun to do a 'longevity comparison' between your boat and one restored with a saturated epoxy bottom, decks, lamintated frames, etc....at 10 year intervals ))

[Eric D]

I just LOVE the thickness of the wood you are using. I know you are building it "beefy" on purpose and to match the conditions you plan to sail, but still I love it to death, thanks.

[Allison]

)

Got lucky and received 4 nice, curved planks from Denmark to use when making these "rails"
The planks was 77 cm (31") wide and almost 5 metres long, with a nice curve corresponding to my templates! (Close to getting religious).

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12022011002.jpg

I recall that we had -28 degr Celcius this day.. (Brrr)

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13022011009.jpg


I got 3 planks out of the first one..

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/Bilde0762.jpg


That really is nice timber!!
you did get lucky.
You sure don't seem to mind chasing up the right timber.
this is really good stuff, consistently great pics.
Thanks a lot!!|:)|:)

[svaap]

The capping rails was reduced to 45mm thickness, and a r = 20mm radius was routed to it on all 4 corners.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02032011001.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02032011003.jpg


Mortises was cut to correspond with the tenons on the stanchions

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/03032011008.jpg


and a lot of sanding to get a smooth surface

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/05032011002.jpg

[svaap]

Still needs some downward force to get it into position

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/03032011024.jpg

The rail will be fastened by "spikes" going through it, and nailed horizontally to the stanchions.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/03032011020.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/03032011021.jpg

[Sailor]

Cool I like this thread more and more each time I see it. She'll be a beauty.

[McMike]

I need this boat. Thanks.:DY>

[svaap]

Sorry Sir, but I need it too.... ;-)

The ends of the capping rail curves down to the covering-board with wooden knees.

I had to glue two parts together to get the right dimension, and also it will make this curved piece a bit stronger as it easy to split due to end-grain.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06032011015.jpg

After ruffing up the glueline with a file, and making pilot-holes for nails to position the parts, it was glued with epoxy

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06032011018.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06032011021.jpg


Yesterday, after the glue had cured, I cut of the excess glue with the bandsaw

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07032011001.jpg

The knees will be joining the capping-rail with dovetails.

[svaap]

I have done some dovetailing on the deck-beams, but I find it more tricky to get these right as there are more surfaces that needs to match when it finds its final position.

Also, you don't want to do any mistakes when measuring/cutting, as this isn't just a plank but a piece with a lot of work put into it allready...

I got the first one together


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07032011010.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07032011009.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07032011012.jpg

And fitting them together

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07032011022.jpg


Still final adjustments to be made, and also rounding of corners.
The knee itself will be slightly curved to take up the curves in the covering-board.

3 more to go...

[boattruck]

SV, Looking good, I can almost smell the oak fresh from the saw...Cheers, BT

[Allison]

So many great details!
You've got a pretty serious woodshop there Svaap!

[chuckt]

Nice!

[Matt Billey]

Hey Svaap,

That's a clever way of fastening the cap-rail to the stanchions! I like it.

Matt

[PeterSibley]

This has been great stuff , your work is excellent , but you didn't need me to tell you that ! |;)

[svaap]

Thanks for nice comments!!

I am a simple man, and my motivation gets a boost from your positive feedback (as probably all of us do...)

Question:

I will laminate the roof of several layers of plywood glued with epoxy.
Will using some sort of glassfibre-cloth between layers strenghten the lamination, or will the glue-line be sufficient?

Thanks for input!

[Matt Billey]

Svaap,

I wouldn't bother with the fiber-glass between layers of ply. If you were thinking about glass, you could put that or dynel as the final top layer. A few layers of ply, glued into a curved shape is going to be mighty strong.

Matt

[MoMan]

What an impressive project! I'm envious of your skills, your boat and your shop!!

[svaap]

Worked on the knees this afternoon.

Ended up filing/sanding one of them, and I am pleased with how they turned out.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/11032011001.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/11032011002.jpg


Rounding with a very sharp file (purposely made for preparing hooves on horses...)


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/11032011009.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/11032011027.jpg

[svaap]

After a bit of sanding by hand

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/11032011016.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/11032011025.jpg

[JayInOz]

That's a shoeing rasp Svaap. They cut quickly but can leave a lot of finish work if you sand by hand. Love the shape of that knee! JayInOz

[Sailor]

Beautiful. Great work.

[Tom Freeman]

Yes, I like the shape you have created on these bits.

[Ocean Spray]

Wow, very impressive! Both the construction and working under those conditions.

[Lucky Luke]

I will laminate the roof of several layers of plywood glued with epoxy.
Will using some sort of glassfibre-cloth between layers strenghten the lamination, or will the glue-line be sufficient?


Hi Svaap,
I am a strong partisan of reinforcing the (necessarily thick) layer of epoxy when gluing large panels together. IF it is possible to ensure a uniform, high pressure, like gluing under vacuum, that is not necessary as the pressure guarantees that there is a good contact between the surfaces with only "the necessary" quantity of glue, epoxy or even resorcinol in this case, but when only screws are used there is a chance - or should I say a risk - that there are voids in the glue line. To "avoid the voids", a thick glue line is needed, but then this thick glue line needs to be reinforced, by microfibers or by chopped strand matt (CSM). The point in favor of the latter is basically the cost, but it also makes for an extremely strong composite. Woven roving could also be used instead of the CSM, but I found that as the binder of the CSM gets diluted by epoxy, fibers do "migrate" towards the places where the glue line is thicker (between screws).
To make sure, anyway, that no void is left, pressure must be applied gradually to let any air escape through the screw holes, meaning screws must no be put in at random, but from center outwards or from one edge edge towards the other for example.
As a side note, on the designs for the "Tree of Life" sister schooner we are building, I noted that Ted Brewer puts fiberglass in between sheets of plywood in his specifications...and I bow to the experience of this man.

[svaap]

Thanks Luke.

I have only read about vacuum-bagging, and it seems a bit complicated (?) to me -especially since it will be the only part of the project when this tecnique is needed.
Will using thinner plywood panels be a better alternative (less force needed to get good contact between layers)?
-Of course large areas, many layers adds to the cost of the laminate.

We have different woved glassfibre at work, and also aramid-fibres -wich is very strong, so I could reinforce the joint with fibres.

Temperatures are still not high enough for glueing, so I still have some time to sort out what to do...


I got all 4 knees ready this weekend, and they look quite nice I think.
The knees meets oak planks that are shaped to fit above the covering-board in the bow and stern.
These planks highlights the sheer -or in fact enhance the sheer- as they are higher in the bow than the joint with the knee.

Some pictures:



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13032011002.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13032011011.jpg



I measured out the position of the port-lights, and cut them using a hacksaw.

They are made of bronze and are very nice with the typical greenish okside. I got them nearly for free, from a gentleman who had decided to demolish his old boat.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13032011029.jpg


Two of them can be opened, so I put those at the back of the trunk.

Dry-fitting


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13032011026.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13032011034.jpg

[svaap]

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13032011038.jpg



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/13032011006.jpg

[svaap]

I rough-cut the curve of the cabin-top this afternoon.

This curve leaves us with headroom inside the cabin.



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/16032011001.jpg

[chainyank]

I rough-cut the curve of the cabin-top this afternoon.

This curve leaves us with headroom inside the cabin.



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/16032011001.jpg

It looks pretty good from over here! Nice job.Y>

[Sailor]

She's going to be one heckuva boat once you get her back in the water. Keep up the progress and keep posting. We're loving it.

[Lucky Luke]

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02032011003.jpg


Sorry I forgot to say that on earlier post: you should never, absolutely NEVER use this kind of clamps when doing a guiding jig on a shaper when working "at the shaft" like that, but exclusively "C" type ones. The vibrations are able to get them loose without warning and the whole thing fly in bits and pieces....your fingers included. Please take this advice very seriously!

Your capping rail with the grain following the curve will be beautiful. Lucky to have got this timber, but also well done.

About the fiberglass (or aramid= OK), and the way of gluing ply on ply: the stiffer the better. If too thin, it will not exert "naturally" a regular pressure, but buckle. I would say that (just by eye), you could use 2 x 12mm. plies. That is about 1" total, and adequate for this roof. 2 x 10mm. just feels a bit light compared to your other scantlings.

I do not pretend that our construction method is best overall, but your very classic boat could very well be done the way we are building a large, "semi-classic" schooner here in Vietnam, with additional tongue and groove planks underneath the plywood. May I invite you to have a look at the thread about this build (unless you already have).

[svaap]

Luke,

You are absolutely right about the safety-alert above.
The clamps could very easily have lost their grip -advise taken -Thanks!

Could mention that we struggled a bit with the moulding of the radious.
The problem was to keep the planks flat to the table at all time. The planks was long and curved.
The planks clamped onto the router was set with precise spacers to let the planks to be feeded pass through, without the possiblillity of moving upwards from the router.
They were set very tight.
Went very well, but -as pointed out- could be really dangerous..

I bought a motorised feeder, but did not dare to use it on the curved plankes...

I can assure you that I read all your posts on the schooner-build, and I am totally impressed by the quality of the work!
Bending plywood is not something I have experience with, but I wonder if 12mm ply will a bit too stiff for the bending-radious...(?).

Thank you for advice.

[svaap]

Spring is coming and a lot of snow is melting.

The ground is still frozen, so melting-water doesn't drain into the ground.
My workshop is filling with water every spring. A bit problematic to move around with 15 cm of water (6") on the floor, but it keeps the hull from drying out...


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02042011028.jpg


The stanchions have been submerged into a oil for a couple of weeks, and are now really soaked with linseed oil.
All connecting surfaces are painted with red lead


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02042011022.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02042011030.jpg


The oak on the superstructure was oiled as well to prevent it from drying out to quickly.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02042011010.jpg

[St.J]

I was impressed when the thick snow and 30 below temperatures didn't stop you dead in your tracks.
Ha! Six inches of water is nothing to a man of your calibre|;)

Great work.

[ILikeRust]

I am SO loving this boat!! Absolutely great. She's going to be a beautiful thing and a joy to sail, I'm sure!!

[willin woodworks]

What a beautiful project and your workmanship and attention to detail is admirable and inspiring.

You seem to be fabricating a lot of components with white oak and epoxy; something that has been frowned on by many on this forum. I have heard that white oak and epoxy are not compatable for years and frankly I ignored it because it never happened to me and I had never heard of any failures first hand.

Recently I was talking to another woodworker who is completing a glued lapstrake ply Coquina and was telling him about my Gardner Banks Dory build and we inevitably got around to cursing epoxy. I am using Titebond 3 on the greater percentage of my build but I will use epoxy on the ply planking and the scarphs. I am planning on using epoxy at the stem and transom to fasten the planking as well.

Well...he told me that he had heard the stories about white oak and epoxy and had pretty much ignored them as well until all of the glue lines on his truck bed cover failed within two years. All the white oak glue lines anyway.

I am planning on pre-treating the oak with CPES before I apply the epoxy.

Do you take any precautions, pre treating steps etc. prior to your glue up? Do you know something that we don't?

[svaap]

Hi !

Regarding glue up and oak.
I have experienced glue-failiure with oak and epoxy, but if the wood is dry enough, and the surfaces are ruffed up a bit (usually by using a rasp or file), they bond quite well.

I think it is all about getting a good mechanical anchoring of the glue into the wood..

However, I have no long-term experience saying this will be fine -so time will show!

[chuckt]

Svaap, What tool and blade did you use to cut out the holes for your ports? The cut looks too fine for a jigsaw. They look very nice by the way--perfect for your boat.

[svaap]

Hi Chuck,

I used a jigsaw with a new blade.

The cut was done quite slowly, as the blade was just long enough to penetrate the wood when at its inner position and it "kicked" several times and the blade fell off.
To add to the challenge the saw had some loose electrical connections, and started/stopped all the time (!)

[Eric D]

Svapp, I love those stanchion ends, how do you plan to attach them? I also like that pin idea for the cap rail, do you plan on bedding that in anything? Are those traditional to that build or something you came up with?

thanks.

[svaap]

Hi Eric,

The stanchion ends will be glued to the cap rail, and I might put a wooden pin through the joinery horizontaly.
I am a bit confused about the terms for the different parts, but if you by writing "pin idea for the cap rail" is refering to the tip that will go into the cap rail, then yes I will use a bedding compound. The notch in the cap rail has been filled with oil for a couple of weeks now, and will also be painted with red lead.

I'm sorry if I misunderstand your questions...

Cheers,

[Eric D]

thanks Svaap, you answered my question!!

Looks great by the way, in case no one told you in the last 5 minutes!!!

[svaap]

Some pics of this afternoons work.

I have routed grooves on the mating surfaces on the planks making the back-wall of the cabin and the corner post for the same connection.

These makes the the joints stronger and also function as a barriere for water to penetrate. Will be glued with Tech-7.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06042011004.jpg


The inner corner-posts was the next task

After measuring I planed the inner angles

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06042011014.jpg

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06042011015.jpg


After fitting the heart of the post it got there

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06042011023.jpg


A bit of rounding on the inside

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06042011025.jpg

[svaap]

I routered a radious on the supporting beams for the companionway

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/05042011003.jpg


Still applying red lead paint on different parts before assembly

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/02042011030.jpg

[svaap]

I finally got the cabin-sides bolted onto the carling, after a long on-and-off process.
Copper bolts is the main fastener, but I will also use 316 quality screws.
The mating surfaces was covered with Tech-7 glue and will make a strong bond for the assembly.

I have not decided if I shall cover the bolts from showing inside the cabin or not. I quite like the look of a riveted bolt-head ..


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12042011001.jpg


The same glue was used in the corner-assembly with its tenon and mortises.
The inner post is yet to be glued/screwed


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12042011002.jpg


On the top edge of the cabin sides there will be a beam to make the landing of the plywood roof a bit wider.
The beam is cut from iroko and will be screwed/glued to the cabin.
I cut the angle to meet the curved shape of the roof.

The outer corner-posts was cut down to the right height:

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/14042011007.jpg


The beam was cut into the inner corner-post, still in need of some adjustments before glue and screws will be fitted.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15042011005.jpg

[svaap]

A lot of sanding was required to round off the inner corners of the cockpit.
The roof on my workshop could very well be higher, as I constantly have to crawl under and climb over to move around on the boat.
Sanding by hand is not my favourite activity, and sanding by hand head down legs up adds to the feeling of facing an endless unpleasant task....


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/14042011013.jpg

[jak3b]

Beautiful and inspirational work!.

[svaap]

Hi folks, time for an update.


We have been blessed with nice warm weather up here the last weeks, with temperatures around and above 20 degr C. Spring is here with all the beautiful transformations and colours.

My little boat gets it's fair share of attention too, and I am motivated by the fact that she soon looks ready (although a lot of work is still to do).


When glueing the corner-posts with it's loose tenons, I didn't want to spread out too much glue in the joint as it is rather hard to squeeze out of the assembly.
This led to a bit glue-starved joints as you can see on this picture. I do not think it will be any problem, and I have later filled the holes with the same glue.
The assembly will also receive wooden screws, staggered in pairs.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/18042011001.jpg


After filling the gaps and showing the positioning of the screws


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19042011010.jpg


The portholes or portlights (?) -the windows of the boat was generously donated (the price was close to nothing) from a nice old man, with a nice old boat that was cut up.
They were designed for 2" cabin-sides. Mine are only 35mm thick so I needed to cut them down a bit. Custom casted by the former owner in bronze.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19042011004.jpg

Still in need of some final adjustments before the outer ring is screwed in.
I just love the way the bronze oksides and become greenish!!


I have been experimenting with the curve of the cabin-roof, to gain standing headroom without too small radius on the curve of the roof.
Lucky for me we are not tall people, and I think the look of the cabin is quite pleasing to the eye and harmonic to the hull -and we have standing head-room inside!

Measuring up the forward curve before planing it down.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19042011006.jpg

As this picture clearly shows, the lack of height in my workshop is troublesome. Crawling/climbing the roof-construction when moving around/building is not very pleasant.
To remedy this, I need to be able to move the boat out of the shed every now and then.

[svaap]

My neighbour had a couple of heavy 5 by 5" steel gate-posts lying around and I could very well take ownership of them if I could use them.

After cutting with a grinder I got some substantial parts for strenghtening the craddle for the boat.
The same neighbour was kind enough to weld the parts together for a safe connection.

Now I can rely on the craddle and take the boat out of the workshop, even if it's just for the days work.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/26042011001.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/01052011025.jpg


I mentioned the lovely greenish colour when bronze is "ageing", but the picture was somehow left out... Here it is:


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/19042011013.jpg


A lot of sanding was required to get the covering board/sheerplank joint finished.
I love the way different types of wood meet. On this picture you have from right to left: Norwegian Pine, Oak and Iroko.

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/25042011002.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/04052011004.jpg

[svaap]

The scarf on the capping rail was epoxy-glued and bolted together today.
The saw-table on our woodmizer was perfect for the job, as the plank is about 8 metres long when bolted.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/05052011001.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/05052011002.jpg

[WX]

Another thread I don't think I've seen before and another fine looking yacht in the building. There's some beautiful grain in those cabin sides.

[Viktor]

Beautiful!!!
Thank you!

Viktor

[PeterSibley]

We remain amazed ! BY:D


and I LOVE that tractor in the last few photos ! Tractor LUST :d

[headonz]

You are making great progress ,one man working on his own and in less than ideal conditions that would have stopped many.

I always look forward to your updates svaap !

[Jim Ledger]

I never miss a picture, Ole. The boat is looking fantastic and your work a delight to watch.

Thanks,

Jim

[svaap]

Thanks,

I am crossing my fingers that I'll be able to move the capping rail onto the boat without anything breaking (!).
(It is about 8 metres long now).

The plywood roof for the cabin is soon to be glued, and I am thinking/reading a lot about different scarfhing methodes, scarfing ratios, jigs etc.. (I just LOVE this forum!).
My circular saw cuts only 50 milimetres and I plan to use 6 milimetre plywood (3 or 4 layers, depending on the stiffness after 3 layers).
If making a "edge-cutting" jig I should get a 8:1 ratio (or is it 1:8)?.

I was considering using my planer, and simply make some sort of wooden support at an angle of 4,5 degr to the table so that I get 1:12 ratio.
Not sure if it will be accurate enough though....handling the sheets over the planer. Of course with a helper it could be manageable.

Anyone out there that has tried this?
Should I even go for a try?

I have access to different quality of glassfibre cloth and aramid (kevlar) cloth.
The plan is to -at least- have the cloth on the top surface of the roof. I may also sandwich the cloth in between the layers.
Kevlar is really strong but will it be suitable for this application? Will the glue bond to it?

[Lucky Luke]

The plan is to -at least- have the cloth on the top surface of the roof. I may also sandwich the cloth in between the layers.
Kevlar is really strong but will it be suitable for this application? Will the glue bond to it?

Epoxy bonds well to kevlar. This fiber is used to improve the "perforation" resistance of wood composite, sandwiched between two layers of wood. I am not sure of the advantage it in this case and would rather go for glass. Chopped strand matt (CSM) works well , but a very thin one has to be put on top otherwise the fibers "move" too much just when impregnating since the binder of the CSM gets dissolved by the epoxy (unlike with polyester). If you can find stitched CSM that should work fine. Otherwise, good old woven roving (the cheapest) does well too, but in all cases you have to be VERY careful not to leave voids between the plies. Multiple (temporary) screw holes work well as escapes for air pockets.

We have not tried other fabrics between plywood sheets, but on the roof 300 g/m2 bias (-45 - +45) is perfect. I would recommend having the fabric not only on top but also a few centimeters down the cabin sides, with rounded upper edge of the roof, and also preferably a solid wood strip to protect the plywood edge.

Looking at your (just perfect! Well done!) crop of the roof, I do not think you will have difficulties bending even 12mm. ply, unless the roof has a compound shape (curved in two dimensions).

[svaap]

Thanks Luke!

I definately need to read up on the different qualities/types of glassfibre cloth to really understand the difference between the types mentioned.


Got the capping-rail sanded for excess glue and lifted them back on deck.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06052011004.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06052011007.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/06052011010.jpg

[snow(Alan H)]

OK this is not fair - how come I have just discovered this thread ??? We need some way to identify the wow stuff out there.


Ok - maybe I should have spotted the filigree
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp165/Alanh22/Alanh22A/Screenshot2011-05-07at90940PM.png

[svaap]

9 months ago I made cut some short lenghts of the deck-planking (Iroko) in order to practice on the caulking.
These are rought and have never been sanded (you can se that planing the wood has created some "tearing" of the fibres as they change direction).

But to the point.... The planks were left outside all winter up till now and have turned grey as I hoped.
However -and this brings me to my question; The surface has developed cracks -mostly were the countersunk holes for the fasteners are placed and due to exposed end-grain I think. Can I oil the deck and still get that grey finish after a while?


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07052011014.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/07052011014.jpg


Any suggestions??

[Lucky Luke]

Looks over-dried, and cracks quite obviously, as you say, favored by the end-grain being exposed.
These thin cracks are also very common with iroko, which wood is often considered the "poor man" substitute to teak, although much tougher and harder, and appear easily everywhere along the grain.
I would not, however, oil the deck, which makes the wood become very black, but soak it with slat water as soon as the boat is launched....and keep doing so. This is what gives the bare wood decks the best appearance, and also keeps the grain tight. Of course, all the bright-work then needs to be wiped with a cloth (or chamois skin) rinsed in fresh water.

[svaap]

Felt a tickle when reading "when she is launched"... I am getting there -soon!

Got the stanchions assembled today using "Simson glue" as bedding compound.

A lot of the bolts was hard to reach on the underside of the covering-board, but somehow I managed to thread them all tight and well.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/08052011001.jpg


The surfaces was primed before applying the goo


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/08052011008.jpg


The capping rail was let over the stanchions before I boltet them through the covering-board.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/08052011009.jpg



Both port and starboard was bolted in place -finally!!


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/08052011020.jpg

[Thad]

Sweet!!!

[Steve McMahon]

Wow - I just read the entire thread from page 1 (mostly looked at the pictures)
Fantastic project, fantastic job!
Thank you for taking the time to share it.
Steve

[A.Greever]

May I ask what the square ring things at the bottom of the stanchions do, and what are they called?

[PeterSibley]

Luke,

You are absolutely right about the safety-alert above.
The clamps could very easily have lost their grip -advise taken -Thanks!

Could mention that we struggled a bit with the moulding of the radious.
The problem was to keep the planks flat to the table at all time. The planks was long and curved.
The planks clamped onto the router was set with precise spacers to let the planks to be feeded pass through, without the possiblillity of moving upwards from the router.
They were set very tight.
Went very well, but -as pointed out- could be really dangerous..

I bought a motorised feeder, but did not dare to use it on the curved plankes...

I can assure you that I read all your posts on the schooner-build, and I am totally impressed by the quality of the work!
Bending plywood is not something I have experience with, but I wonder if 12mm ply will a bit too stiff for the bending-radious...(?).

Thank you for advice.

Svaap ,

regarding the clamps .A small retrofit that I do with sliding clamps is to drill a series of holes ,usually at 50mm spacing along the bar .If you need a secure grip ,as in you spindle moulder setup ,put a 1/4'' bolt with nut through the hole and slide the clamp mechanism up to that .It CANNOT slip .

It's also a good way of converting many of the second class clamps we own to something useful .

[svaap]

Greever:
I don't know the English term for the part, but I guess a bronze socket would do..?
Originally the stanchions was let through the covering-board, but I decided to mount them on top and bolt it through the socket/covering-board.

Sibley:
That was a good idea, thanks!
I must mention that the arrangement used to rout out the radious was to hold the piece flat to the table, as it's long and curved shape made that difficult.
The router-bit was set up with a ball-bearing for guiding the wood towards the cutter.

[Eric D]

Looking really good Svaap, really enjoying your project. I too noticed the tractor and have Peter's envy. My bro in law just has an old case with 3 point hitch with forks for lifting logs onto his bandsaw mill but is limited in the weight he can pick up and it will slide around on him, your's looks MUCH nicer and easier to use.

good luck with the rest of the work!!

[svaap]

The tractor is of great use on our farm.
(For my boat-project as well).

Today I have worked with drilling the holes for the "capping-rail spikes" that secures the capping-rail from moving upwards.
These are cast in some sort of bronze or brass.

To measure out where to start drilling, I made a simple device to tell where the in-line position of the side of the stancion marks up on the capping-rail.
(I am sorry for my poor explaination -engelish is not my language, and I should have paid better attention in school... (!)


The spikes are flat-countersunk into the capping-rail.

Some pictures:


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/09052011001.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/09052011003.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/09052011004.jpg


The tools to be used. The countersunk drill-bit is kind of home-made, but it does it's job very well.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/09052011005.jpg

[svaap]

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/09052011006.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/09052011009.jpg


Some work with a file was neccessary in order to fit the spike.

These will be sideway fastened with either bronze screws, or galvanized ships-nails.
I think the latter one will be stronger for this use, but would like some advise from you guys...


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/09052011010.jpg

[chainyank]

I am on of your happy lurkers, I thought I'd pop my head in and say I really like watching your progress!

I also like all your smart jigs and solutions, my favorite so far is the drill jig you just showed above, I see that it is a large plug bit guided by a brass rod. I am going to remember that on, thanks!

[Sailor]

Are those rail caps meant to be removable? I've never heard of fastening them like that. I like it but don't know why you need to remove the railcap. If that is what I'm seeing.

[svaap]

It is not meant to be removable.

Needs to be fixed quite strongly to the stanchions, as the sheet from the forward sail is running on a block on top of the capping-rail.
These spikes are quite often used up here, often in hot-dipped galvanized steel.

The countersunk will be covered by a epoxy-glued plug.

[Thad]

Looks great! I don't like the idea of such dissimilar metals in contact with each other, so I'd prefer a yellow metal, but it will be sheer load on the spikes or screw shanks so you need some size in silicon bronze, just about the only bronze we can get here these days.

[Peerie Maa]

Are those rail caps meant to be removable? I've never heard of fastening them like that. I like it but don't know why you need to remove the railcap. If that is what I'm seeing.

I have see the same fixings on a trading schooner from the 1920's. A common permanent method for preventing the rail cap from lifting off.
Svvap, don't use galvo there, silicon bronze will be adequately strong as the stantion is the weakest part and galvo won't last driven through that copper alloy.

[Raka025]

A very impressive job and five stars for your perseverance!! I hope I am still going on my job after 15 years. I was looking towards 10 but things happen. Do you have any good tips for making your rivets? I will be making some before too long for this boat. When do you think you will be launching?

Lastly, I know a good Chiropractor in Oslo if you are ever in need of a referral.

[LenD.]

great post, 15 years not bad it ha.s been 1.5 years for my nutshell pram

[Raka025]

I built a nutshell over a winter with a friend who built one along side. I needed mine as a tender in the spring, his is still not finished. I think that was in 1993. Find a reason to finish and set the goal...
great post, 15 years not bad it ha.s been 1.5 years for my nutshell pram

[svaap]

Thanks,

I'll try to get some bronze screws (they are not that easy to get here and cost a small fortune though).

Will there be a galvanic problem when mixing two different alloys when they are not submerged?

The only riveting I have done is making heads on bolts.
I pre-heated the end to be riveted and let it cool before riveting it through a thick countersunk metal-plate that the bolt was passed through.
Important to use washers under the bolt-head when tightening.

I should have been sailing for 1 year now...before discovering that the deck was not as good as it looked.
One extra year in fitting new beams, laying the deck and building the hatch and cabin/cockpit.
At least now I know everything is ok for many years to come (I hope..)

I am not a fast builder- but I really enjoy the process!

[svaap]

I cut som planks out of a large diameter fir log.
These will be shaped and fastened outside the stanchions, under the capping rail. (I don't know the name for this plank in engelish...)

The woodmizer is a fantastic saw. We mill all our material for building-projects on our farm, and although the investments still is not profitable it will be in the long run.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/10052011001.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/10052011002.jpg


I put a liberal coat of paint on the end-grain to prevent it from drying out too quickly, and stored them in the workshop with small sticks between the planks


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12052011001.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12052011002.jpg

[svaap]

The knees rounding off the ends of the capping-rail needed some adjustments before fitting.



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12052011003.jpg



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12052011005.jpg


The same knees in the aft of the boat will be rounded to meet with the covering-board.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12052011009.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/12052011008.jpg

[Sailor]

Awesome!

[svaap]

Before assembling the cap-rail to the stanchions, I needed to make sure that the countersunk holes for the through-bolts could not be filled with any water/moisture.

This was done by filling the holes with a bedding-compound. Same procedure with the underside of the cap-rail.



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15052011001.jpg



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15052011004.jpg



http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15052011006.jpg


I needed to be very careful when positioning the long plank onto the stanchions.
About 2 years ago (before I started tearing ut the deck and beams), I had a similar cap-rail made, with curved knees in the forward and aft-end, but I was not careful enough when disassembling the parts for later use. I ended up with the long planks falling to the ground, breaking i noumerous pieces -along with my heart....

Now 2 years later I am assembling new parts for the last time (I hope), and I can assure that I took neccessary precautions to prevent the same accident..


I tried to get a nice fit, and enough flexible compound in the assenbly to avoid any water-traps.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15052011015.jpg



The beams for the roof-construction has been in the way for me a long time now, but this afternoon they were perfectly positioned for excerting pressure along the cap-rail.
A lot of wedges brought it all the way down to it's final position.

[svaap]

http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15052011016.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15052011017.jpg



The corner posts aft on the cabin-trunk was still not rounded, to I marked a suitable radius and sanded the with a belt-sander.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/15052011018.jpg



Until next time...

[svaap]

Not much done since last update, but I have preliminary fastened the plank on the outside of the stanchions


Before planing the edges


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/22052011016.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/22052011017.jpg


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/22052011023.jpg


After planing the plank down to 18mm I will route a profile to the upper and lower edges and paint it white like the hull.

I am looking forward to seeing this part completed, and to take the boat out of the shed for glueing the plywood for the roof.


http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab111/svaap/22052011025.jpg



See ya!

[svaap]

....By the way,

Does somebody know what type of winches I have? (picture above)

They are made of bronze, but I do not know what type they are?


Thanks!

[Otter99]

Svaap,

I have to say... your efforts here are simply amazing. This mighty endeavor will end some day in you actually sailing - a whole other chapter, but for now keep the story going.

[chuckt]

Svaap, You like that LT-15? Is it dificult for one man (one small man in may case) to use? I probably should have bought one when I bought the land we are living on now. I watched a lot of nice white oak go up in smoke because I had no way to cut it up and use it.

[svaap]

Chuck,

The woodmizer is a fantastic saw, and will probably be profitable a couple of years ahead.
What I really love is the flexibility to mill our own dimensions (it cuts up to 800 milimetres in width).

It is easy to use, but takes a bit of practice to get the most out of the logs.
Manhandling the logs is fairly straightforward, using a special tool that came with the saw as leverage.
One thing that I am not satisfied with is the clamps used to fasten the logs.
They tend to slip and are surprisingly stupid in design, making them easy to cut yourself on on sharp edges.

Up here in the north the ground freezes in the winter, creating a shift in the ground when spring arrives.
This calls for deep foundation of all constructions to avoid shifting.
Our saw is not yet finally positioned on our farm, so it sits on wooden beams on top of the mould and needs to be levelled every spring.

We bought a extension-module and are now able to cut 8,7 metre logs (!).

[ILikeRust]

I cut som planks out of a large diameter fir log.
These will be shaped and fastened outside the stanchions, under the capping rail. (I don't know the name for this plank in engelish...)

Bulwark?