Brushable Awlgrip

[Bill Perkins]

Has anyone here used this product ? Ruell Parker makes some interesting recommendations for the use of Sherwin-Williams industrial coatings . He primes with their Tile-clad II(epoxy) or Polane Sanding primer(polyurethane), topped with Polane HS polyurethane .But he's spraying .Has anyone tried rolling and tipping these products ?

[Scott Rosen]

Sterling makes an excellent brushable two-part LPU, which is very simialr to Awlgrip. My guess is that the Sterling is just as good or better. Check out their website, detcomarine.com.

I use the stuff pretty regularly and I"m very pleased with it. My only complaint is the price.

[Bill Perkins]

Thanks for the website Scott, I'll check that out .I seem to remember that you also like their clear coating .I'm hopeing the product can be flattened and tinted .

I've thought of finishing my whole interior with someones 2 part clear , thinking it would be a good paint base if I choose to reduce the amount of brightwork as I see how the compleated boat looks .I'd intended a work boat finish and the topsides and side decks will definitly be painted , but I'm backslideing on the interior a bit .The floorboards have got to be painted and non skid I think ,other than that I'll play it by ear I guess .See how the Occume planking looks bright and see if I'm inspired to finish the interior with varnish grade lumber or not .

[ 10-07-2003, 01:59 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bob Smalser]

"I'd intended a work boat finish and the topsides and side decks will definitely be painted..."

100+buck-a-gallon Supergloss poly on a workboat?

Kelly-Moore makes an "industrial" gloss alkyd oil-based enamel...their grade with highest solids content...in about any color you can imagine for 45 bucks a gallon retail.

[ 10-07-2003, 02:18 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Bill Perkins]

Bob the ultra gloss yacht systems are probably overkill . I do want to use a 2 part paint system , and want to make sure I can successfully brush it .

[Dutch Rub]

Used plenty o awlgrip. what you want to know?

[Bill Perkins]

Have you ever rolled and tipped it Dutch , or used the flattening agent ?

[Dutch Rub]

Yes to the rolling and tipping- you have to work fast and keep in wet paint or youll get brush marks-it helps if one person rolls and another brushes if you are tyring to cover a large area. use the brushing reducer and usually to the max rate to give you more time to brush it out. I do not recommend the flattening agent except for spray applications. iif you try to roll or barush it out using flattening agent you wind up with a ssurface that is flat in some spots and semi gloss in others- spraying is the only way to use flattener and have a uniform surface-een then you have to mix it well and get it on quick-the solids tend to quickly settle out.

[Bob Adams]

Interlux makes a consumer labeled version of linear polyurethane paint. Thinned properly they will spread almost like cling wrap on an open food container. I rolled mine with a West System foam roller and sent the help home as it looked so good, just some VERY light orange peel, that tipping off was not required.You can mix in a deglossing agent to tone it down a bit, an excellent easy to clean non skid is also available. I used all these products, paint job is 6 years old, looks like it was done yesterday.

[rrowlands]

I second the recomendation for Interlux's Interthane Plus. I've rolled and tipped it with good success using flattening as well as non-skid additives. Follow the directions to the letter. Don't be afraid to thin it to the max if it's warm and breeezy. The coating adheres extremely well, takes abuse and cleans beautifully.

Good luck.

[Bill Perkins]

Thanks all I'll look at the Interthane . The Sherwin-Williams site is interesting , they even have some copper antifouling paints .

[JimConlin]

I've used the Interthane product and was mostly happy with the results. It doesn't cover or fill at all well, so your prep needs to be perfect and several coats may be needed to cover. I felt that it needed tipping and used a foam brush. It is quite glossy and weathers very well.
The nonskid additive works well.

What Dutch said about the flattening additive. When rolled & tipped, it's a bit inconsistent. If spraying is the only way to get the flattener to be consistent, then count me out. I don't and won't have the equipment to safely spray the stuff.

I wouldn't use LPU paints for interior work. The main advantage to these paints is that they're glossy and weather well. Neither of these is needed in a boat interior. They require a lot more prep than conventional alkyd enamels and are a lot more expensive and difficult to apply. The fumes in an enclosed space are brutal. I'd prefer eggshell or semigloss enamel from the corner paint store.

[Bob Adams]

That was one VERY important thing I forgot to mention. Do use a properly fitted vapor resperator, you'll regret it if you don't. I have also used Sterling and Awl Grip with good results.

[Frank Wentzel]

I went to several professional paint stores to get a paint flattening agent. The place that formulated their own paint told me that it was a special blend that they "could'nt" sell. The other store said they didn't stock a flattening agent but that I didn't really need a commercial product. He told me that talc was the principle product used to flatten paints. He said don't use baby powder (most of them use cornstarch as an additive). I have 5 pounds of talc I bought at FCI for epoxy use, so I guess I have enough flattening agent for a long, long time.

/// Frank ///

[warthog5]

I can tell you that the Sherwin-Williams Tile-Cad II is some good stuff for your garage floor. It's in my shop. I've never used it on a boat. I've heard that SW has droped the line and have something to replace it. Not sure about that and I'm not sure if it has UV inhibiters in it.

We used it at work for the auto shop. That shop got cleaned once a week with steam cleaning soap and steamed down. It would finaly loose it's gloss after 1 1/2yrs. The only thing that would get the paint off the floor is to drop a brake drum on it's edge and chip the concreate. At work they chose a gray with 55% light reflective value [LRV]
I picked one that had 72% LRV.
This is the good stuff. It cost's $52.00 a gal kit. That's 2gal of material, pigment and catlist.
The stuff will not come up when the hot tires from your car sit on it, like deck and porch paint will.