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LazyJack
04-27-2010, 03:57 PM
I have a friend who has a Haven that leaks pretty briskly when first launched. Although this slows down to a weep reasonably soon, he doesn't have a mooring and tries to trailor sail it. I advised him strongly against fiberglassing from the waterline down and instead suggested thumbing in some slick seam as a temporizing measure before launching - which would likely need frequent repetition - until which time the boat was out for the season, dry, and the seams recaulked. (This too i suggested was best done by someone who understands how to do this properly)

Does he have hope of success dry sailing a POF hull over time if he doesn't leave it in the water for more than a day at a time? Are there any other strategies that folks are using to address this?

TimH
04-27-2010, 04:05 PM
small slips are plentiful around here. Unlike large slips.

Lew Barrett
04-27-2010, 04:20 PM
Slick seam is fine, but applying it every time you launch for a day would get old fast, I'd think.

A Haven is not a very large boat. If it needs some work, why not just do it and be done?

My little boat leaks a bit on first launch, then takes up within a few hours. I don't find it very disturbing.

esingleman
04-28-2010, 11:11 AM
My understanding is that a small carvel planked boat can either be trailer sailled or kept on a mooring, but trying to do something in between is going to be problematic.

Instead of glassing the exterior there are two methods that are being done today that seem to work according to legend.

First method. Get a circular saw and set it to the depth of you planking and cut down the length of the seams. You can grind the saw blade so that it will make a "V' groove in the seam. Cut wedge shaped long strips of a soft wood like cedar and epoxy these into the seams. Then sand them flush and paint the boat with three coats of epoxy, and follow with a traditional paint to bock the UV from the epoxy.

Second method. Clean out the seams, sand the plank edges well, re-cotton if necessary. Saturate the seams with CPES, then apply polysulfide caulk. Paint hull with 3 coats of epoxy and then traditional hull paint.

These two methods rely on the exterior epoxy and CPES to significantly reduce the moisture intrusion into the hull, preventing the seams from opening up. Or I should say, keep the seams form over swelling so they don't open up upon drying. A traditionally painted interior in tandem with this exterior method allows the wood to breath from the inside.

With either of these two methods you don't want the boat to dry out too much during the winter, so you don't store her in a heated concrete floor garage.

The advantage of these methods over fiberglassing the hull is that repairs could be made much easier to these methods than to a fiberglassed hull.

I have no experience with these methods, but it seems logical.

Star distributing has detailed instructions for method #2 on their website.