View Full Version : Alan Peck and Little Moby

Brian Lobdell
12-16-2000, 05:01 PM
I too am in the middle of building Little Moby. How are you going to power it? At what stage are you?

Alan Peck
12-16-2000, 06:29 PM
Hello Brian: Glad to hear someone else is working on "Little Moby" It would be great to compare notes.

I am building it out of douglas fir and will probably use Meranti Plywood. I have completed all the pieces for the frames and am ready to start assembling the frames. Based on reading this Forum, it seems like a good idea to coat the wood with some type of penetrating epoxy like CPES. Since CPES is hard to find here in Florida, I am thinking a using a penetrating epoxy from Fiberglass Coatings in Sarasota FL. I am still not sure whether I should pre-coat all the pieces
(including the plywood) prior to assembly.

I also plan to fiberglass the bottom, sides and the decks.

One problem I had was that I could not find 2 1/2" material for the stem,gripe and knees. I think I have solved the problem by making these items with three layers sandwiched together. I plan to use 1 1/2 inch in the center with a layer of 1/2 inch on either side. Although it is probably overkill, I plan to epoxy and bolt the layers togther.

I don't know if you have built the construction support yet, but it looks like it would be worthwhile to raise it up 12 to 18 inches. I think it would save the old back.

I have been thinking of a 25 or 30 HP Johnson for power.

How is your project going?

Brian Lobdell
12-17-2000, 10:49 AM
I'm a little farther along than you as I have just finished the planking and am working on the keel.

If I had it to do over I would beef up the building frame by using two by sixes instead of two by fours. When it came time to put on the chine stringers I wished the frame was a bit stiffer. I raised it twelve inches from the floor. I think any higher would make it difficult to work on the keel without something to stand on. However let your height be the judge of that.

I'm using white oak for the frames and 9mm okume for the planking. I'm going to roll on a coat or two of epoxy (West System) and paint over that. I did the same thing when I built a Poo Duck Skiff and have been happy with it.

I'm going with a little less power than you because some of the ponds and lakes here on Cape Cod have HP restrictions.

Keep me posted on your progress and good luck.


Alan Peck
12-17-2000, 01:56 PM
Brian: sounds like you are doing great!

I am getting ready to order my plywood and I am not sure how many total sheets I will need. I assume you scarfed your plywood. Are two 8' lengths enough to reach from stem to stern? It looks mighty close.

Thanks for the advice on the building frame, it makes sense.


Brian Lobdell
12-17-2000, 06:27 PM
I got away with six sheets for the planking. It took for four the bottom and if you scarf the side planks carefully you can use one sheet for each side. I used the method found in the article on building the Lightning class Sloop. Part 2 in issue #154, page 70, of Wooden Boat. It shows how to scarf the plywood at an angle so a two-foot wide piece will cover. If you don't make the scarf too wide (I used 8 to 1) and are careful not to waste too much, the peice will be long enough. I'm not sure if I have enough left over for the deck. I expect I'll have to buy another sheet. This was NOT my favorite part of the building process and I'm glad it's over.

Alan Peck
12-17-2000, 06:56 PM
Brian, thanks for the reference to Wooden Boat on angle scarfing. Wouldn't you know its the only recent issue I don't have. Oh well at least I can order it.

Since you are ahead of me, I guess that makes you the expert! Hope you don't mind if I ask questions of you. Perhaps with warmer weather here I'll catch up so I can offer you advice???

Regarding the planking, I am curious as to whether you made patterns and if so out of what?