Chines

[Flyfisher]

Hi All,

I am building John Atkins Willy Winship (my 1st build) a ~14' flattie and I am at a stage where I am ready to attach the chines. My question is should I rabbet these into the stem (one piece stem)like the planks or should I just reduce the outboard side of the chine to match the curve of the plank?

Thanks!

P.S. I have a blog going on my build if you are interested in following along - http://woodenlapstrake.blogspot.com/

[Candyfloss]

Since I only have the drawings on the website to go on, it's hard to be certain, but it looks like notching the stem to accept the chines may not be the best solution. There does not seem to be enough meat there for that method. Certainly fitting the chines outside the stem, then planing off the surplus on the outside of the chines is a very poor option. Which leaves you with beveling the inside of the chines to fit the sides of the stem & gluing the forward, sharp end of the chine at the aft edge of the rebate, where the planks enter. (I think that's called the bearding line, but don't quote me.)

That whole rebate thing is a big ask for an amateur to do. Much easier to cut your stem back to the front edge of where the rebate is drawn, bevel the edges for the planking, then clean up the front & glue a false stem on.

This is not the first time I have heard complaints that Atkins plans, supposedly for amateurs, fail to give details for such basic and important joints. And I live on the other side of the World. Good luck.

[holzbt]

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2595357/210024843.jpg

This was done by dmede on his Atkin designed skiff several years ago. It's about the best way I've seen anyone do it.

[Flyfisher]

Candyfloss and Holzbt thanks for your input.

The "Unlikely Boat Builder" is building Cabin Boy (Atkins plan) and on his blog he did the chines like this....

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KWIIP1jb40Q/S03W1gj-aaI/AAAAAAAACSQ/GU2WxwQuIkY/s320/chinelog2-1.jpg (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KWIIP1jb40Q/S03W1gj-aaI/AAAAAAAACSQ/GU2WxwQuIkY/s1600-h/chinelog2-1.jpg)

Obviously this picture is taken before the stem rabbet is cut.

On Willy Winship the stem is 2.5" and the chine is 3/4" thick. Does that change any of your thoughts on how to proceed?

I did up a mock stem which I made out of spruce to see if I understood how to draw the bearding line and cut the rabbet. This was a good plan as it brought to light the chine issue and proved that I understood how to arrive at the correct angle for the rabbet.

I know what you mean though about the plans wanting a little for an amateur--the only drawing of the stem is on the longitudinal section where it shows a couple of widths and the heights from which the curve can be drawn. The front edge of the rabbet line is just a dashed line shown on the stem with no dimensions to indicate how far back from the leading edge to start.

Oh well, I am confident that I will muddle through all this with everyone's help and will be sailing by summer!!!

Thanks!