dory plans?

[goodguysconsulting]

Would like to build a dory in the basement this winter (yes, yes, I know -- meaure the door first!)... Am also working on another boat, so would like a quick & dirty design. Does anyone have suggestions for which plans to go with?

Thanks, Ken / goodguysconsulting

[John Bell]

How big and what type are you interested in? Do you want plywood, or some other type of construction?

I've built a 15' dory by Jim Michalak that I enjoy rowing very much. Phil Bolger's Light Dory is a very popular design, for the good reason that it looks good and performs well. John Welsford also has a nice looking light dory. I've even drawn a small dory myself that is a not a bad boat according the four people who've contacted me after building them.

All I'm saying is there is a lot of dory designs out there so it would help us if you could be more specific as to what you want it to do.

Best,

JB

[ 09-20-2002, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: John Bell ]

[Keith Wilson]

Look in John Gardner's books, particularly The Dory Book, but also Building Classic Small Craft (both volumes). He's got lots of good dory plans, all varieties: standard Banks dories, the numerous round-sided varieties, the large St. Pierre type, even power dories with inboard motors and and outboard powered semi-dories. Can't go wrong with John Gardner.

[goodguysconsulting]

(Tried to edit earlier with more info, but it didn't take)

Need something capable of taking 3 adults short distances in some weather. So, I'm thinking 15/16 feet. Would prefer plywood, stich&glue for ease, but then I look at a Swamscott and....

[Steve Paskey]

Hi Ken. Paul Fisher at Selway-Fisher in the UK has plans for a stitch and glue swampscott -- the "Fisher Swampscott". Details at the link below. The plans include details for a sailing rig, but you could ignore those if you just want to row.

I have the plans for the smaller (12-foot) version of the same boat and was quite impressed. Construction is pretty much along the lines of one of Bolger's "instant boats" -- Fisher gives you the plank expansions. No spiling, just measure (in metric) and cut. No building jig: any molds are temporary, to keep the shape as you build. And the lines are nice (at least on paper).

All in all, the fastest and easiest way to get a round-sided dory.

Steve

http://www.selway-fisher.com/OtherDB.htm

[Tar Devil]

Here's my input, for what it's worth...

Jeff Spira has plans for several banks dories as well as some Carolina dories. If you register on his site, he'll give you a set of plans for this 13' banks dory...

http://home1.gte.net/jspira/boatbuilding/t_june.gif

Here's his site if you're interested...

http://home1.gte.net/jspira/boatbuilding/

Jeff says...

I also am just an e-mail away if you have any questions while you're building your boat, or even if you're just dreaming. People e-mail me from all over the world to discuss their ideas. I love receiving your questions and comments. And he means what he says. He has answered EVERY email I've sent, and has given me some very good input on design criteria and choices.

Later,

Phil

[John Bell]

Blackberry (11' 3" x 4')

Free plans here (http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/designs/blackberry/blackberry.PDF). (Acrobat Reader needed)

http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/images/blackberry_proto_1.jpg

I've also got a 14' version that may fit your needs better. Let me know if you have any interest and I send them right out.

JB

[Tar Devil]

Gosh, John, I like that!

Later,

Phil

[John Bell]

Phillip: Thanks!

GoodGuys: "Three adults/some weather." You need a bigger boat than 15' I think. Take a look at Bolger's "Big Dory", 19' stitch and glue construction, fantastic looks!

To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349

JB

[goodguysconsulting]

John,

Would absolutely like to see plans for larger version -- looks very pretty.

Thanks, Ken

[John Bell]

Goodguys: You've got mail...

JB

[On Vacation]

I signed up for the Spira dory. On the way I think. John cool man. I like the colors.

[goodguysconsulting]

John,

Got & reviewed the larger Blackberry plans. Since I've only slight experience (2 week Wooden Boat "Basics" course + house carpentry as p.t. profession) perhaps you wouldn't mind if I put my questions here for the benefit of any other newbies who may be following this thread:

1. I like the temporary frames -- that's what I'm looking at, right? Which seem like a simple solution to what others describe as the most difficult part of stich & glue (e.g. flopping around with 16 ft. unsupported lengths of plywood). Are these put on a strong back or can you just jam them into a stiched, or parttially stiched right-side-up boat?

2. From the picture, youve got a stem and I see notation for stem bevel on the plans, but; (a) I don't see a stem pattern and, (b) don't know whether the bevel is cut into the stem or the planks.... or, most likely, I just can't remember how to read your otherwise quite clear and legible plans.... help!

Thanks, Ken

[John Bell]

The frames are in fact temporary. They are supposed to cut out some type of scrap sheet material, plywood, OSB, whatever. Tack some cleats on edges to stiffen them up. I would not argue with a permanent frame amidships, however. It would allow you to eliminate the rather lubberly thwarts I have shown needed to hold the hull in shape.

You don't need a strongback to assemble the hull. Cut out and butt (or scarf) the panels, making sure you boldly mark the locations of the temporary frames. Temporarily screw the side panels to the center frame, then do the same to the forward and aft frames and finally the stem and transom. Then you'd stitch the bottom on, followed by filleting and taping inside and out. Then bend on the gunwales, fit the thwarts and remove the frames. Be sure to stick skeg aft.

As for the stem, I was trying to draw this boat for both chine log and taped seam construction. I'd personally save the trouble of cutting a stem and use a fillet and tape approach instead. And except for a stiffener across the top of the transom, I'd tape that too. I thought I had included a full size stem in the drawings, though. I've got one somewhere that I'll see if I can find when I get home.

Best,

JB

[John Bell]

Goodguys: I see what you are talking about. The stem in the plans is shown in cross section. It is intended to be cut out of a 2x4 to the bevels shown and long enough to hold the front edges of the topsides together. I'd make it about foot longer than needed (30-35"?) and cut to fit after assembly.

JB