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wtarzia
12-22-2009, 11:25 PM
I visted Ireland a few weeks ago for a (very wet) month of bicycling on the way to do some folklore research in Co. Cavan. On the way from the airport, as I was passing through Navan (some 10s of miles north of Dublin) my memory suddenly clicked in to a conversation I had had with a friend a few years ago, concerning a builder of traditional coracles (skin-on-frame craft). I had it in mind that I might do a brief interview if he had the time, take a few photos, and publish a little article somewhere amenable to little articles. I had read some on these boats and seen their canvas covered cousins on the west coast, so I hoped I could come across as a moderately intelligent interviewer.

My only information was that his name was Clive [later learned it is spelled Claidhbh O'Gibne, pronounced O'Givne] and that his shop was somewhere near the Newgrange Visitor Center, the gateway to the 5000 year old passage grave complex of the Boyne Valley. This center was on the south side of the River Boyne (the mounds are on the north side -- long silly story). Luckily, on a reasonably country-ish road in Ireland, these directions are all that you need -- everybody knows everybody, and an hour or two later I found him. If you are ever in Ireland, his shop is worth a visit.

It was a "bank holiday" -- the curse of the foreign traveller to Ireland, for these mysterious days seem to jump up like evil gerbils and cry out, 'Ha! Everything's closed! I hope you have enough money for today!' Yet Clive was there because he is a busy man and also had a meeting with his leather suppliers. He kindly tolerated my unasked-for presence -- I tried to make him feel guilty ;-) since I had flown 3000 miles to see him (well, sort of...I didn't mention the sudden memory thing).

His stone and brick workshop (a couple of miles before the Newgrange visitor center, on the right) cannot be missed: a frame of a corracle hangs from the gable. Friendly big dogs greeted me with happy muddy feet and dropping tongues, always a good sign, because more often a dog in Ireland is a terrifying brute showing his teeth, a working animal with no time to fool around.

I found Clive sitting at his bench with bullhides soaked in lanolin, the typical covering for the medieval Irish and later skin-on-frame craft (if you are still with me, you probably already read Tim Severin's "The Brendan Voyage" and know as much as I do about leather boats). This was interview heaven, because the setting and his casual words were each the distilled essence of interviwews -- the smell of the hides, fine well-used handtools here and there, and the carvings.... Clive is a carver, and his workship is like a museum where people with uniforms and radios do not jump out of corners and yell at you when you get too close. Or rather, it was not at all museum, but the physical expression of a man's working life. The mantle over the fireplace was carved in Celtic interlace designs, and a wooden fish three-dimensionalized right out of a medieval manuscript illumination stared at me from a corner, and a dozen other things.

When we had a moment alone I asked him if he had any time that day or the next for a brief interview. He said he preferred not to be interviewed. He also didn't want me to take any photos. He was very nice about it, but seemed quite definite. So I would have to enjoy being a mere tourist. He said I could go to his website, newgrangecurraghs (that was what he said), and that "it was all there," (perhaps he has been worn out with interviews and the website is his bulwark), but I have either been spelling it wrong or or using the wrong end-address, and have not found it. [Note: a WBF fellow below found it: http://sites.google.com/site/boynecurrach/home (http://sites.google.com/site/boynecurrach/home) ]

I had caught him at practise on the hides. He uses a short axe with a flaring blade (lets the hand get closer to head) used two-handed to cut them. "I tried different things, but the axe offered the best control." The edge threw off sparkles from the window light, so I guess he keeps it well honed. His leather suppliers wanted to see something out back, and since it must have been an awkward time to hoist me by my backpack straps and toss me out, I got to see what it was. Ahhh!

Out back a 35 foot frame for a curragh stood upside down on posts that let you stand up inside it. This seems critical because you are constantly in there hand-lashing the frame members. Whereas Tim Severin's medieval reconstruction used sawn lathes (from excellent clear lumber I assume), Clive's curragh is an experiment in getting even more serious with a reconstruction than Severin was (my idea, not Clive's! He spoke only about his own boats). Coracles are made with willow saplings bent in the frame, and perhaps some withes* sometimes for some applications. I believe the coracles are what Clive started on, but he migrated to curraghs and I surmise wanted to migrate the older framing method back to the large curraghs.

Most likely medieval curraghs were also built with saplings I should think, in the absence of good saws to put out piles of fine lathes (though medieval Iereland was better supplied in native woods, already in the AD 700s wood supply was stressed, as is evidenced from some remarks in medieval times: see Nancy Edward's book, The Archaeology of Early Medieval Ireland. This leads be to think that thick clear wood would not be used where a sapling could suffice). And perhaps too, the saplings have some advantages in natural strength. Severin was using local and modern experience in the making of his curragh, with the important exceptions that the frame would be lashed with leather thongs and covered with bullhides, though the framework itself would resemble a modern curragh. Perhaps this did not matter for his particular archaeological experiment, but the purist might be very interested in Clive's conception.

(*I am no expert, do not quote me. But I define here a sapling as sapling, you know what it is, a baby tree, and a withe is a sapling that is twisted until the fibers separate but do not break, making a kind of "tree-rope" if you see what I mean, albeit a stiff rope. Withes were used for some lashings, and also to hobble the feet of cattle. They are so strong that the reconstructed 90 ft Viking ship, Stallion of Glendalough, recently home from sailing, had its side-rudder repaired with a withe when its leather contrivances failed at the high-stress location. Anyway, the new book, Traditional Boats of Ireland, has photos of coracles being built, and a brief write-up by Clive on modern uses of the revived coracles).

When I mentioned that "This is like the Brendan boat," Clive nodded, and perhaps is tired of the comparison for all I know. So let's call it a large ocean-going curragh, and add to that "pre-medieval" because it may become part of an archaeological experiment related to the construction of the prehistoric passage-graves of the Boyne, some of whose materials were evidently brought from dozens of miles away. As with the Stonehenge site, the Boyne valley monuments were further ritualized with exotic materials taken from afar.

I noticed the lines were a little different from the Brendan boat. The bow was very bluff, almost scow-like. Clive felt this was the better rendition, and if he is going at some point to try to carry large stones up river in the boat, the extra few pounds of buoyancy there might help. There was no time to pick his brain further on this, so I'll leave the hypothesizing at that.

His lashing method was to temporarily lash the saplings with synthetic line before committing himself to lashing with the leather thongs. Since this boat is a reconstruction with a little less than usual to go on -- a thought-experiment as much as an archaeological experiment -- and since recessional Ireland is probably not pouring money into his project, saving materials like this is perhaps a good and necessary idea.

End of Part I. Go on to part II

wtarzia
12-22-2009, 11:57 PM
Part II

His ten year old son gave a very intelligent tour of the various coracles and river-curraghs hanging in the courtyard of the shop. These are not museum specimens but working models, some retired, some with pleasant in-use memories, for he has frequently been out on the river in these craft. The boy showed me the fine points of the frame of one and said, "What interests me most about this one is that I lost a ping-pong ball down under the withes. I wonder if it's still there?" What a great childhood he must have!

Before I left, Clive gave me directions to a good campsite on the tow path of the old Boyne barge canal (itself worth a hike, since the remains of locks and other tow-path architrecture can be seen to provide an inland-boating-history jaunt; the tow path and canal was constructed in the early 1800s; if you read the Horatio Hornblower series, then you went with him on an English version in one of the books). I peddled down the path and tented there to the sounds of the burbling Boyne and the roaring drunk young folk in a nearby field celebrating far into the night with fireworks. I returned the next day for a brief final visit.

When he learned more about my own work in Irish folklife, he backed off on his photograph prohibition, but I did not take any because I could see the big curragh project must be some source of pressure, and I didn't want to add any anxiety. [I discovered later that his BoyneCurraghs website has excellent photos, and I did not need to take others, except for the personal connection.] This time Clive and a friend were practising with stitching. They had some large leather pieces and were trying to get a good "Eskimo stitch" in the leather (a hidden stitch), the practice stitches being a couple of feet long or more through the scraps. (They would have used bone needles in prehistoric times, so I wonder if the experiment will go so far? I heard somewhere that the famous navigator Maul Pialuig from Satawal in the Pacific tried building an outrigger canoe with the shell-adzes of prehistory -- some wicked anthropologist must have set him to it ;-) -- but I believe he didn't try very long.). The leather was very supple in its greased state. I am wondering how and when they harden a little.

I asked about what rigs they had considered: a standing lug, dipping, square rig...? He had considered a standing lug , but felt that a square rig would be more appropriate. Only later when I was gone did I think I should have asked if he planned on leeboards. Severin used them on Brendan, which I thought might have been anachronistic because I am not sure the evidence is there for them in the early middle ages (ca 500-600 AD), and that far west. But they were invented some time, and some where, and in any event Severin used them. The use of leeboards in a boat supposed to be available 5000 years earlier still would be an interesting quandry.

So this is as close to an article as I can get. I hope to follow his progress on this boat when I can find it. I admire that his framework is a further attempt at creating an accurate reconstruction of a very early skin boat, though I imply nothing against Severin's boat. I also admire that he wants to test the curragh in its possible use as a heavy-transport vehicle to aid contruction of those burial mounds that are older than Egypt's pyramids, which get all the press ;-). If in Ireland, drive east from Navan on the road on the south side of the Boyne until you see a coracle frame hung from a gable. Choose a weekday, on a non-bank holiday, and if the builder seems harried with a hundred things, don't take it amiss. If you can prep an interview with far better credentials than I have, I say, good for you, and I hope to see your article! If you have a lot of money that is tiring you out, consider donating some to Clive's project. -- Wade

Thorne
12-23-2009, 08:46 AM
Great stuff! We also have toured Ireland in the winter when **everything** is closed, particularly at Christmas when **everyone** goes home to Mother.

Fond memories of Newgrange, one of the few sites that is open during the winter due to the winter solstice sighting setup in the mound.

And a good description of the delicate balance between visiting and touring, and how difficult it can be to take photos in some locations or of some people.

Hwyl
12-23-2009, 09:04 AM
I did find this site.

http://sites.google.com/site/boynecurrach/home

wtarzia
12-23-2009, 11:57 AM
...And a good description of the delicate balance between visiting and touring, and how difficult it can be to take photos in some locations or of some people.

--- Hi Thorne, glad you have visited Newgrange -- I make it my required 'pilgrimage' for each visit to Ireland. (There are 27,000 applications per year to be allowed in there during the 5 days across the solstice, and 100 are granted per lottery, rain, shine, or fog). The National Museum in Dublin has a nice Viking ship, and the Craggenouwen Project out west had the Brendan currach, at least in '88 when I was there.

A delicate balance indeed! I have a little anthropological training and so I'm a more sensitive than the average person to taking photos and using them but I still have my American knee-jerk response to watch over. But I always ask permission and do not make any arguments when the person is uncomfortable. In my own folklife project in Ireland, I wanted to voice-record people too, but in Ireland, one whole set of people *expected* to be recorded and sometimes are upset if you don't have a recorder-- older Catholics who are used to folklife heritage projects that are recording "passing traditions." But others are more hesitant. The American tourist is more used to the American "journalistic" tradition of the camera-happy psyche, and even hidden cameras and gossip/scandal reporters, and we have to be extra careful that we don't bring this philosophy far.

My girlfriend spent 6 weeks in Ghana and was instructed that many Ghanaians do not wish to be photographed unless there is an exchange of some kind. They view the photograph being taken as a thing of value, like a piece of fruit or a shirt, and must not be 'stolen'. Often what they took in exchange for a photo was no great trouble -- the travelers had two cameras, their digitals and their Polaroids. The Polaroids were for taking photos that could be traded immediately to the person whose permission you asked, and it worked well. Sometimes a dollar was good enough, and sometimes the people just let you take the photo after you asked.

I asked her to take lots of wooden boat photos when possible, and luckily she found all the boats (dugout canoes) alone on beaches or on the water!

This reminds me of Steve Thomas's time on Satawal island learning canoe navigation with Mau. After proper introductions and gifts of fishing gear, the island chief pronounced, "You may now talk to anyone, and take all the photos you want." And he did (there is a splendid web-site where hundreds of his photos of people and canoes are available to the public). -- wade

wtarzia
12-23-2009, 12:03 PM
I did find this site.

http://sites.google.com/site/boynecurrach/home

--- Super, thanks! He gave me the title, not the address, and somehow I missed this on the generic google search.

That's the big curragh, but I saw it inside the high-walled courtyard, not in that open field. And the frame I saw was still being lashed -- I wonder if he was revising it?

His web-site is very good, and I see I didn't have to write this article ;-) Oh well, I needed the exercise. -- Wade