Lyman Runabout Restoration

[63lyman]

Hello all! This is my first post, though I have bee lurking in the shadows here for a couple of years now.

This is my second project, the first being a late 50's charles whittholz 17'1'' catboat resoration which I "finished" this summer...not that a wooden boat is ever "finished"

Its a 1963 15'5'' lyman runabout that was given to me by the owner. he was the second owner and bought it in 1965. It has been worked hard as a family boat, and as they were a fan of waterskiing, they upgraded the engine to a 1983ish johnson 70hp longshaft with tilt....way too overpower for this beautiful boat. Its weight appears to have stressed the back ribs bad and they quickly deteriorated. The owner realized the destress of the boat and 3 or 4 years ago (at 72 years old) decided he would think about restoring it. he stripped all the hardware and flipped the boat upside down on the trailer for the winter(THANK YOU!!!!) then never touched it again.

He gave me this boat, with the condition that it sees the water again. From what I can find the list is as follows(so far;)):
1) 2-3ft of rot in the keel
2)12 or so bad frames
3) waterline plank ends where they are screwed to the transom are rotted(some filled with epoxy :-/)
4) A few small spots that are soft on the transom, but definately not rotted through.
5) deck has delamed and cracked in a few places.
6) I think thats the major of it so far....but its a wooden boat...so....

here are some pics Including the same vintage Gator trailer I pulled out of the woods on my girlfriends family farm...there was a 6 inch tree grown through the leaf spring:



http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/SzAppgZXFhI/AAAAAAAAAWo/9egf_oYpdm0/s640/IMG_0436.JPG



http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/SzAoeE_NXAI/AAAAAAAAAWY/OSeZkI8U6mk/s640/IMG_0435.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/SzAodn0urKI/AAAAAAAAAWU/utDT1S90ajE/s512/IMG_0433.JPG


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/SzAodWeKNhI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/VpuYznDydAI/s640/IMG_0430.JPG


Ihttp://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/SzAocry2eGI/AAAAAAAAAWI/uVXLTlWbLr0/s640/IMG_0372.JPG

I belive my order will be as follows, any input would be appreciated!!!

1)scrape transom of paint to figur out extent of transom rot while boat is right side up.
2)Flip over and scrape all paint off
3)clean up keel and remove all rot/scarf in new keel sections.
4)flip back over and remove all interior and deck
5)start removing and steaming frames, larger ones first.
6)Dutchman for transom depending on how bad I find it to be.
7) plank end scarfs/replacements
8)refinish interior
9)re-install interior
10)3-4 coats of varnis once interior is reassembled
11)pain hull
12)repower
13)go cruising and drink scotch.
14)repeat step 13.

This is my first lapstrake and I'm a little nervous to steam frames and fix the planking. I think I just have to jump in...

I moved the boat in my garage and installed a wood stove, so I"m good to go for the winter(I hope!!!)

Thanks for all the inspiration on this site and any input would be greatly helpful!!!!

-Brian

[Saltiguy]

Nice boat - look forward to following your project

[63lyman]

a few more pics:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/SzApp1vvn5I/AAAAAAAAAWs/g3u61zPp2e0/s640/IMG_0363.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/SzAppaurvzI/AAAAAAAAAWk/vQEX5tjetNw/s640/IMG_0431.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/SzAoc0_JYxI/AAAAAAAAAWM/HQ1IFIRFq3U/s640/IMG_0380.JPG

[Richard Jones]

Rebuilt a 1959 PennYann, same size and about the same condition a few years ago. Fun project. Keep us up to date!

[BA.Barcolounger]

I'm neck deep in a 1955 outboard restoration (18 footer). Lymans are awesome boats. Please keep this thread updated.

Your gameplan looks fine.

[AndreasJordahlRhude]

She looks like a very restorable vessel. Keep at it. I assume you are aware of Dr. Lyman:

http://www.lymanboat.com/

You may also desire to get involved with your local chapter of the Antique & Classic Boat Society www.acbs.org (http://www.acbs.org) and the Antique Outboard Motor Club www.aomci.org (http://www.aomci.org)

Andreas

[63lyman]

Thanks everyone, I'm excited about the restoration, and will definately keep the thread updated. It will help me keep my thoughts organized and force me to think/overthink every plan I make with it.

-Brian

[rbgarr]

Twenty to twenty-five hp is about all you need for that size Lyman. We had a 35 on a 15' 1951 Old Town and used it for waterskiing. It did the boat no favors.

Good luck and someday your boat will look something like this! http://www.saletosee.com/category/221/Antique-and-Classic-Boats/listings/177/1954-Lyman-15-foot-outboard---Restored-2009.html

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Great boat... and what a score, the trailer. They are very desirable among the vintage outboard guys. Keep posting

[63lyman]

So a couple weeks have passed. It was cold here in VT and my little wood stove didnt keep the shop quite warm enough to consider it "tolerable" working conditions. On top of that, I had a little car issue(4x4 blew, I live on a class 4 dirt road....got it stuck, pulled it up the hill with the tractor....a chain link failed....well you get the idea, it was 150yrds before the blazer was stopped quickly by a tree....) Good news is I now drive a full size truck :-)

Today I started scraping the transom. I was given a Dremel Multimax for christmas, and I bought the scraper attachment, and I am quite impressed with how well it actually works....once you get the hang of it. You do have to be careful not to gouge the wood, but I will be sanding the transom quite heavily so I'm not too bothered by it. A little clean up with a chisel, and in about 1 hour of CAREFUL work I am left me with 1/3 of the transom bare. Pics to follow tomorrow. I'm afraid I may have more work to do on the lower section of the transom than I had hoped for. The 70hp evinrude really did a number on this boat.

[Lew Barrett]

If you don't mind my saying so, have you tried chemical strippers on her? You might find that's a good way to go rather than a Dremel. Or dry scrapping, which many here find very effective. "Machine" stripping is frequently the least efficient approach. But each project is different, so I'm just inquiring, not directing. I just find chemical strippers are very frequently the fastest path to a finished product.

[63lyman]

Lew-

I definately appreciate the input. though chemical strippers are extremely effective, I'm not a big fan of stong chemicals and the like. I'd rather dry srcape, or go with the old propane torch and putty knife, but this tool is actually incredibly effective. It beaing an oscilating scraper attachment, rather than an orbital tool like a standard dremel, it is actually quite easy, especially on the already cracked and slightly peeling surface. I'll hit the whole transom with a belt sander with 100 grit, and be done to the point of being able to make a clear inspection of the condition of it.

Thanks, and I will always be thankfuly for any further input.

-Brian

[Lew Barrett]

Brian, if you do find that you'd like to give chemical strippers a go, try this one. I found it benign and environmentally friendly. It was a tip given me by from another "seeker" on the forum.

Soy strip (http://www.soysolvents.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=S&Product_Code=SS)

[BA.Barcolounger]

I'm in the same boat regarding the weather. Work on my Lyman has been sporadic at best.

I did my transom with a hand scraper, followed by a palm sander. Heat guns work well too.

Post pictures.

[Gluesniffer]

What you've got here isn't a '63 Lyman. It's a Lyman, to be sure, and a 15' Outboard Runabout model, but she's not a '63. By the early sixties Lyman was building a 16' Outboard Runabout, but it was a completely different hull, wider in beam and with much more flare in the bow.

Lyman built the 15' rear-steer Outboard Runabout for about a half a million years, actually starting in the late twenties and extending up until 1957. However, there were many little subtle changes made thru the years that can help identify the relative vintage of a particular boat.

This boat is pretty easy to identify from your pictures. In reviewing my old Lyman Catalogs, the only years that the rear-stear 15' was built with a split-deck, or walk thru from the front to the back was 1956 and 1957. (Actually, in 1957, the 15 was offered with an option of either rear-steer or front-steer. In 1958, Lyman changed the 15' hull considerably to accomodate more weight forward and offered the boat as only a front-steer model)

So this would make your boat either a '56 or a '57. Looking at the trim and such, I'm going to guess that it's a '56. You should be able to find a five number serial code stamped on the boat, most likely on the inside tramsom framing. Tom Koroknay has all the old hull records from Lyman and could give you the exact age of your boat from those numbers.

I had a 1953 15' just like this and powered it with a 1957 35hp Evinrude. I put that engine on it because I wanted certain niceities, such as electric start, and that was about as early as that was available. The boat when I got it had a Mercury Mark 40 on it from the original owner. Strictly Armstrong pull-start, and ergonamically designed to tear your rotator cuff by the fourth pull. What a beast. Ran either wide-open like a screaming banshee or not at all. Plus, it was a direct-drive engine(no transmission), which meant if it started, you were boating, ready or not!!

Most of those boats were deliveried with 25hp Johnson or Evinrudes, and any motor (short shaft) in the 25-35hp. range would be good on that boat. Any more power would just be foolish.

Good Luck!!

[Gluesniffer]

Oh, and I forgot to mention, stripping the interior sides of the hull will be a complete b*tch. No real simple and effective way that I know of to do this, except a combination of chemical and scrape/sand. Lotsa corners and nooks and crannies!! Gets real fun trying to get in behind the ribs!! Depending on how nice/original you want to make the boat, you might consider just smoothing out the insides and painting it all like the bilge. (Lyman Sand Tan paint is still availble from the Sandusky Paint Company)

All the interior pieces should come out pretty easily with a screwdriver. I would recommend refinishing the interior completely with the interior removed. Refinish the interior pieces seperately and then, when it's all done, re-install and touch up, as neccesary.

[rbgarr]

Oh, and I forgot to mention, stripping the interior sides of the hull will be a complete b*tch. No real simple and effective way that I know of to do this, except a combination of chemical and scrape/sand. Lotsa corners and nooks and crannies!! Gets real fun trying to get in behind the ribs!! Depending on how nice/original you want to make the boat, you might consider just smoothing out the insides and painting it all like the bilge. (Lyman Sand Tan paint is still availble from the Sandusky Paint Company)

All the interior pieces should come out pretty easily with a screwdriver. I would recommend refinishing the interior completely with the interior removed. Refinish the interior pieces seperately and then, when it's all done, re-install and touch up, as neccesary.

I wasn't going to mention that but am glad you've been forewarned. The interiors of Lymans are hell to refinish well, as he says. A friend has a 25' model like the one we have and thought he'd have it done about five years ago. He's still at it and kind of discouraged.

[63lyman]

Thanks Gluesniffer!!! That is all great information to know. I thought it might not have been a '63, as nothing else I could find of that year had the center steer, and now that I look back they definitely look like they were beamier.

I have the hull numbers, and the registration, which is funny because its actually registered as a 16fter, and a year 2000.....I tried getting doc lyman to get some more information, but he never responded. I figure as I get further along with the boat, I will pay for the whole documentation package that he does prior to registering the boat.

I'll probably go with a 25-30hp, as I will use the boat in the summer for commuting to my camp on an island, and its nice to have a little extra power when the waves are a little larger than what you would like...and you still have to make it home. Electric start will be a must. I'm guessing this should be a short shaft? the ugh...70hp....that was on it was a long shaft....again, adding to the deterioration of the rear ribs...

Definately aware that the interior finishing is going to be a b@#ch. Its funny though, I'm dreading that less than the plank end replacements. Any advice on doing those?

Thanks again everyone for everything. I try to carefully calculate eachthing I do before just jumping in, and try not to hit issues that could be easily avoided with the help of others.

I'll post some more pics soon.

-Brian AKA. my screen name now makes me look like an idiot :-)

[wizbang 13]

Be careful that the bottom does not develop (or have) any concave bumps from being poorly supported. Very small "knuckles" can lead to very undesirable handling charistics. Were me.,I'd spin that transome clean and fair in 15 minutes with a polisher/8" softback/36grit.

[63lyman]

Luckily the boat was flipped upside down on three 4x4sfor the last 10 years...so hopefully there wont be concave spots...when I flip it over to deal with the keel rot I will keep that in mind.

I'll go with a larger grit sand paper like you suggest...I was afraid to take off too much at once.

[Gluesniffer]

When I approach a restoration like this, the first question I ask myself is: What do I want when I'm done? And I think you need to do the same thing, as this will effect how you will approach the work to be completed. Do you want a one of these over-restored showboats? Or do you want it to be as true to original as possiable (not the same thing!) ? Or are you just looking for a nice, safe, sound user boat. Or, are you looking for something that falls inbetween these catagories? For most of us amateurs with limited ammounts of skill, time and money, we have to accept a compromise on some level. You have to decide just where that compromise will be struck.

For example, from what I can see of the photos, the plywood decks are delaminating pretty well, very typical of these boats. You could probably correct that with some carefully applied epoxy and fair them out with some filler, but you are going to have to paint them when you are done. Nothing wrong with that, but if your goal includes the original-style varnished decks, then this isn't what you want to do.

Structurally, you just have to do the right thing. I once saw this same model boat that a guy had "restored" by, get this, coating the entire insides of the hull with epoxy in multiple, mulitple layers until it completely encased all the ribs!! It must have been at least 3/4" thick! The boat weighed a ton, literally! I wish I had some pictures to show, it must have been an unbelieveable job to do! Had it faired out completely smooth inside. The boat floated with about 3" of freeboard to spare!! All that effort and he ruined the boat. How sad!

If you use proper techinques, you'll make the boat better than it was, period. And nomatter what the cosmetic outcome might be, that's a good thing.

Doing the plank end won't be as bad as you think, just time-comsuming. If you have multiple planks that are together, you will want to stagger the lengths, of course. I use a mini-grinder and a chisel to cut my scarf and do the dumb-a** "trail and lotsa error" method to get a good match on the scarf. I make a little temporary "butt-block" out of wax-paper wrapped plexiglass, and I temporarily screw through that piece into the wood to hold the scaft joint in place while it's being glued up. The wax paper helps get a release off the joint after the glue has dried up.

You might want to consider just what engine you are going to use fairly early in the project. There are certain specific considerations as to the steering and controls and such that may have a very direct bearing on the restoration work. So start thinking about that now. A period-correct outboard might be nice to have, but they have their own set of, well, "peculiarites". I could write an entire thread on that one alone!! Plenty of them out there, and cheap, but most of them are junk. Really good ones are available, at a price. And finding parts and/or someone willing and really able to work on them can also be a challenge. But, once again, if you want the boat to look like a mid-fifties time capsule, Al Gore be damned, you're probably going to want to go in that direction.

The 15' Lyman Outbard Runabout is, I'm sure, the most popular Lyman ever built. Although I don't have the data in front of me (Dr. Lyman does, but as you noticed, he doesn't do much "pro bono" work), I'm certain that the number built exceeds 10,000. In my opinion, this model along with the 18' Islander are the quintessential Lymans!!

[63lyman]

gluesniffer-

thanks for all the input. I am definitely looking at this for a period specific restoration. I'm a wood person. I like varnished natural wood, and I will go the approach of having as much of it showing. I also found with my catboat, as much as it can be more expensive to replace wood, it is always is easier, and better in the long run. I probably wont even paint the bilge. I'm going to look for a 25-35 period specific outboard. Would love to find a Javelin, but it might hit my wallet too hard, so it might end up being a nice red big twin to match the steering wheel. I'm sticking to the cable steering as I have all the original pieces. AT this point, I think I just need to set my shop up in an organized functional manor and jump in....sometime getting started is just the hardest part...

-Brian

[rbgarr]

I wish I had a manor for a boatshop. :D

http://i45.tinypic.com/fc1w7a.jpg

[Gluesniffer]

Brian-

If you know what a "Javelin" and a "Big Twin" or a "Fast Twin" are, then you probably know the old outboard story. I agree, a Javelin, particularly the Golden Javelin, would be a beautiful motor on this boat. If the boat finishes up real nice, you'll want a nice looking motor to go with it, and the Javelin's are about as pretty as they come from that vintage (Although the Merc's from back then were very sharp, too.)

But I'd stay with Johnson/Evinrude. I think they're easier to get parts and service for. See if you can find a local old outboard motor-head and pick his gear-lubed brain. He might know of a good find. Plus you can check out the old outboard nuts at www.aomci.org (http://www.aomci.org).

Make sure you get all the parts with the motor if you can, including the ignition control box and as many GOOD pressurized two-hose tanks that you can get. Rusted ones are not hard to get, but good ones can be.

And since you said you're a scotch drinker, I'd get plenty of that, too. Old outboards can drive a good man to drink, and so you'll want to have plenty on hand!!

[63lyman]

Ok...so I havent made any more progress on the transom...but I repowered. I just bought a 1956 Johnson Javelin!!! check it out:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S0aVy01m4qI/AAAAAAAAAYM/vZlpdDLZYCI/s128/front.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S0aVzETi75I/AAAAAAAAAYQ/4rNItusa074/s128/side.jpg

In my mind my boat is starting to look REAL Sharp......soon enough;)

Also bought a heat gun today to assit with the wooding of the hull...tomorrow I buy a bottle of scotch to go with it.

-Brian

[63lyman]

So I finally got back to scraping the transom and it is comeing out quite nice, though I am finding more rot spots than what I would have hoped. About half of the bottom plank width wise is rotted, but only about 1/4 inch deep.....looking like I will perfect my dutchmen.

The heat gun worked like a charm, and I didnt burn any wood, as I have when I have used a propane torch in the past.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S0f_5DTRFlI/AAAAAAAAAZo/caF-qEZBSpg/s640/IMG_0443.JPG

Pardon the poor picture....its getting close to 0 degrees F here...and my battery only let me take one pic.

[BA.Barcolounger]

So I finally got back to scraping the transom and it is comeing out quite nice, though I am finding more rot spots than what I would have hoped. About half of the bottom plank width wise is rotted, but only about 1/4 inch deep.....looking like I will perfect my dutchmen.

The heat gun worked like a charm, and I didnt burn any wood, as I have when I have used a propane torch in the past.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S0f_5DTRFlI/AAAAAAAAAZo/caF-qEZBSpg/s640/IMG_0443.JPG

Pardon the poor picture....its getting close to 0 degrees F here...and my battery only let me take one pic.

Is the rot the soft mushy kind or the dry flaky kind? Does it come in from the end grain or is it surface darkening on the face of the transom?

How does it look from the inside?

[63lyman]

Its the soft squish kind. From what I can tell it has come in through the end grain, and the worst is really just on the lower two corners of the transom. The inside is solid, and from the looks of it the rot originated in the planks. I think the former owner tried to "fix" the planks by ejecting them with epoxy, and maybe covering with bondo on the exterior....but the plank ends near the transom rot are bumpy and solid as a rock. I also found a solid pool of epoxy about 6''x6'' on top of one of the garboards(which acually pulled out in a solid chunk). IT appears to be mostly superficial to me, but we will find out more when I decide to dig at it with my chisel....I think I will probably remove the interior, flip the boat over, and repair the keel first, then attack the ribs. I would like to make the boat as structurally sound as possible before attacking the transom and realizing I have to "maybe" do more than I would have wished......but if people think the transom should be addressed first???

[BA.Barcolounger]

Its the soft squish kind.

Ick. The worst kind.


From what I can tell it has come in through the end grain, and the worst is really just on the lower two corners of the transom. The inside is solid, and from the looks of it the rot originated in the planks. I think the former owner tried to "fix" the planks by ejecting them with epoxy, and maybe covering with bondo on the exterior....but the plank ends near the transom rot are bumpy and solid as a rock. I also found a solid pool of epoxy about 6''x6'' on top of one of the garboards(which acually pulled out in a solid chunk). IT appears to be mostly superficial to me, but we will find out more when I decide to dig at it with my chisel....I think I will probably remove the interior, flip the boat over, and repair the keel first, then attack the ribs. I would like to make the boat as structurally sound as possible before attacking the transom and realizing I have to "maybe" do more than I would have wished......but if people think the transom should be addressed first???

I think you are on the right track. Keel first. Then you can do the ribs and transom/plank ends afterward. There is going to be some overlap as far as what parts get worked on when.

But one of the first things to do is assessment. Pull out any easily removed rotted pieces and cob-job fixes, then re-assess and plan your next moves. I made the mistake of fixing some stuff immediately, then having to go back and remove it in order to get at something else that needed attention.

[63lyman]

SO I contacted Doc lyman and got the documentation package....


Its officially a 1956 15 ft lyman runabout. As suggested in this forum. Good job guys!!!

Lately I'm mostly just scraping paint....wish it was more exciting, but here are some more pics....


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1ZsYtlsAdI/AAAAAAAAAcA/lBpWi82_tx8/s640/IMG_1070.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1ZsZG3ap-I/AAAAAAAAAcE/WLSiCriwEcU/s640/IMG_1069.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1ZsZZVQGrI/AAAAAAAAAcI/IPJH_XVklBw/s640/IMG_1072.JPG

[Tumzara]

Keep up the good work ! and photos.

[rbgarr]

Something to aspire to, and perhaps folks to ask questions about repairing your boat. http://maine.craigslist.org/boa/1562455063.html

[Domesticated_Mr. Know It All]

I love Lyman projects and this seems to be a great one.
Gluesniffer is giving you sound advise Brian.
I tried restoring a 1961 "Sweet 16" and ran out of time and money before I could finish but I learned much for my next attempt at a Lyman restoration
My advise would be to replace the decking and transom especially if you plan to keep the boat and use it.
For sure remove the decking and see how things look underneath.
Another way to tell a 1950's Lyman from a 1960's Lyman is that most of the 50's had Mahogany plywood planking and the 60's had Douglas Fir planking.
There were exceptions but most were made that way.
The very best of luck to you and keep the photo's coming.

Peace,
Kevin



P.S. Be sure not to over-sand the plywood, the veneers are very thin.

[BA.Barcolounger]

P.S. Be sure not to over-sand the plywood, the veneers are very thin.

Learned this the hard way. :eek:

[63lyman]

Thanks guys, I'm making progress...but very slow progress.

My javelin showed up today. it turns over, but I need to dig up a junction box, and dash panel. I also realized that the tiller bracket where the steering controls generally attach have been cut off to formally turn it into a twin set up...unfortunately. But I got a REALLY good deal on it, and I believ it is going to turn out quite nice.

I got home a little late from work today, and the temp dropped more than what I had hope for, so I didnt even bother to start a fire in the shop and try to do work. Instead, I reorganized, and bagged the hardware.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1j6sZoN9OI/AAAAAAAAAc8/-Y4_ysV7Sv0/s640/IMG_1079.JPG

I think the rear light post has been chopped shorter....it wont lock into the bracket when tightened, and just seems WAY too short....

Here's a shot of the original steering wheel...only one small crack in the interior:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1j6su4XGAI/AAAAAAAAAdA/Qo2kS84TVas/s640/IMG_1081.JPG

This weekend I will label all the interior parts, snap a ton of reference photos and disassemble the entire interior. Then I will flip the hull over to strip the rest of it.

[BA.Barcolounger]

Thanks guys, I'm making progress...but very slow progress.

My javelin showed up today. it turns over, but I need to dig up a junction box, and dash panel.

I have an extra starter/junction box from my 35 Super Sea Horse collecting dust in my basement. Shoot me a PM.

[63lyman]

SO I got bored sitting on the couch(the GF works late tonight), and lugged the javelin out of the crate it showed up in...I'm ogn got be sore tomorro....:eek:

It shifts in and out of gear easily, turns over with the pull start nice, with great compression, took of the cover and it actually looks surprisingly clean inside. Cosmetically it needs some work, but a little sandblasting and painting doesnt scare me, probably be some of the easiest work on this project. Here are some pics to feed the eyes:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1kL-8-R0GI/AAAAAAAAAdM/0yASbtp0P98/s512/IMG_1084

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1kL_eLUStI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/K7e7by28sFw/s512/IMG_1085.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1kL_7SpUiI/AAAAAAAAAdU/tLxv7TP3zLM/s512/IMG_1086.JPG

[63lyman]

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1kMAEcd_2I/AAAAAAAAAdY/PVSBEyQL2pQ/s640/IMG_1087.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1kMg2npVHI/AAAAAAAAAdk/BSKniNLH1pU/s512/IMG_1088.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1kMhfutUWI/AAAAAAAAAdo/yQoLeK4ApjU/s512/IMG_1089.JPG

[63lyman]

Last one.....

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1kMhooDosI/AAAAAAAAAds/_Js2nP7YeXY/s640/IMG_1091.JPG

[Thorne]

Looking good! Keep us updated.

[63lyman]

I didnt get all the labeling done that I wanted....turns out I couldnt find a good place to mount the outboard on the wall that it wasnt in the way, and it was too heavy to keep moving. So I ended up building an outboard stand with wheels instead and pickng up the shop a little. Its no major work of carpentry or anything, but it is progress, so here are some pics.:cool:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1uBoFrUgsI/AAAAAAAAAfM/wHSmMLzUgQI/s512/IMG_1094.JPG

Its built out of scrap 2x4's and some extra mower wheels I had kickin around the shop.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1uBooRZLbI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/Yf_NPVRnBT4/s512/IMG_1095.JPG


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1uBo6emYaI/AAAAAAAAAfU/GievWH7J5TI/s512/IMG_1096.JPG

My controls also showed up today, which was pretty exciting, as they hooked up no problem, and the cables weren't frozen..you never know what you're going to get on the auction site......

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1uBprjZTlI/AAAAAAAAAfY/5Xs8r74uui8/s512/IMG_1097.JPG

They match the engine pretty much perfectly...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1uBqAQ514I/AAAAAAAAAfc/drGE2B1rUqU/s512/IMG_1098.JPG

I scraped paint off a couple more planks too, but not worth the pics. Thats it for now..sorry it wasn't too exciting.

[63lyman]

Another day of mostly just puttering around the boat. I decided to pull the cowling off the motor and take a gander at the inside, and I notced something just didnt look quite right....it took me a while to figure it out, any ideas what I noticed? (remember this is a 1956)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1ymifnNqpI/AAAAAAAAAgY/NwKqQQGmXpE/s640/IMG_1099.JPG

This was actually a pretty exciting discovery. these next two pics should make it very apparent what has been done to this motor:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1ymi2bSiBI/AAAAAAAAAgc/254bQIpCkGI/s640/IMG_1102.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S1ymjW0cBaI/AAAAAAAAAgg/hun2zzSDy1I/s640/IMG_1103.JPG

Peering around the motor a little more, it looks like the coils may have already been replaced too. This motor may have been an even better deal than I had thought to begin with. I'm excited to not have to find a 2-line pressure tank as I already have 3 good metal single hose tanks. This will knock some costs of the powering side of the restoration :D

[Bob Myers]

It looks like someone converted to a fuel pump. Now you can use any fuel tank and won't have to use a pressure tank. I did the same thing to a 1954 25HP Johnson, although I used a different pump.

[nedL]

Nice upgrade!

[63lyman]

You guys got it! Someone has upgraded from the pressure tank set up to a pulse operated fuel pump, and converted it to a standard hose set up. Definately and upgrade I would have thought hard about doing eventually, but now I dont have too!!! all I have to do is get it running:rolleyes:

[63lyman]

Here's an update on the lyman:

I have almost the entire starboard side scraped. Upon warmer weather, the transom started to "drip".....more soft spots showed up.

My question is this, currently the transom is a 2 piece, and about half the bottom piece is rotted. Would it be a bad idea to make it a 3 piece, just by routing a straight line through the center of the bottom piece, cutting a new piece and epoxying it to the piece above it. then setting the router at a depth have as thick as the transom and routing the epoxy seam and tapping in a 1/4'' strip all the way across? I can then use the few good pieces left of the bottom section I took out for dutchmen in the two bad exterior spots on the top piece. and have somewhat matching aged wood.

The other option is just to route straight down the current joint line and do the same thing described above. Keeping a 2 piece transom.

Or???? any ideas? I really was hoping not to have to do a full transom replacement, but I guess if that is what people suggest...

[63lyman]

Ok..starting to freak out a little bit:mad:

I've bee scraping paint....a lot of paint and have the starboard side wooded to the waterline. this morning I went out to take a gander with my cup of coffee and just look. I like to just look and imagine what the boat will look like, eventually.

In my peering over the boat I decided to look a little more closely at the keel rot I know I'm going to have to deal with when I flip it over and start discovering a lot more plank issues. I guess the 3 or so months of it being in a slightly warm garage has allowed it to thaw/dry out quite a bit. I'd say 25-35% of the planks below waterline have serious issues. On top of that, probably 60% of the ribs are either rotted, cracked, or just completely missing pieces.

What to do???????? I was hoping for a little less "rebuild" on this and more "restoration". I now feel like after the keel I'm giogn to have to flip the boat back over and do the ribs just to keep the structural shape right. then I'll have to do the planks, starting at the bow sections and moving back to the bad ends I already knew about. then, with all this work done, I might as well just replace the whole transom. DAMNIT!!

I'm starting to think about ways to cut corneres which isnt me, and I know I shouldnt do. what do people think about scarphing rib sections in instead of replacing whole ribs? most are good on the sides all the way past the turn in the hull, and there wouldnt have to be much bending at all. Some only need short 6 inch sections below the keelson replaces. At first I figured if I was gong to put the effort in I might as well just replace them all with brand new ones, but my plan of action is morphing.

Oh yeah, and if you have read this whole thread you probably remember that I nervous about the plank replacement to begin with, and the last thing I wanted to do was replace the transom.

Gotta love it. But hey, this is why we all love woodend boats right?? I was going to seel my catboat this spring to finance this project, and thought I could have it done by the end of the summer, but now I'm thinking more long term. Might have to keep the old Cat.

Sorry, just needed to vent before heading to work for the day.

cheers,

-Brian

[mucrewbtp]

I am familiar with the situation you are facing, its bound to happen on any Lyman restoration, or any wood boat restoration for that matter. Even if you decide to just scarph in new sections, you will still need to steam bend those sections anyway. Many of the ribs in Lymans failed right at the turn of the bilge where the stress is highest. You can check out my thread on replacing ribs in a Lyman to get an idea what you are in for.

You may actually find it easier to replace a whole rib rather than just a section. Once you get the hang of steam bending, it actually goes fairly quickly.

[mucrewbtp]

If you are replacing ribs, you will only want to take out every other rib in the section you are working on, replace/repair those ribs, and then do the others. This way the hull will maintain enough strength to hold its shape. Your boat has the thinner ribs, so it should be fairly easy to bend them into the boat itself and not have to use an external form. I have a good source for some decent air dried white oak if you are looking.

-Mike

[Gluesniffer]

Good advise from Mike.

If you have to remove a few planks/plank sections, start with that. That may help you with clamping the new ribs.

You've got a big job, to be sure. That's why I asked earlier just what level of completion you were hoping for when you were finished. Doing a proper structural repair job on a smaller Lyman is just as labor intense as doing a much bigger Lyman, the dimensions are just different. In fact, I've thought that working on the bigger boat is sometimes easier, because you got more room to work with.

Big, heavy outboard engine and poor trailer support did more damage to these boats collectively than anything else. This is why you see so many little Lyman that are just messed up structurally. Proper repairs are expensive and/or time consuming , and for years these boat weren't worth much, so they just didn't happen. Pine tar, Git-Rot, various epoxies, Bondo, backing pieces and plates of all sorts, L-brackets and metal channel; I've seen it all and more used to "fix" these boats. Like I said, I saw one where they owner coated the entire insides of the boat with Gluvit, to the point that the ribs were totally encased, completely smooth inside. he said he wanted to make sure it didn't leak. Well, it didn't, but it barely floated!!

The value on really good and correct Lyman outboards has risen significantly in the last few years, so if you do this job correctly, not only will you have a great boat for many years to come, you will also have something of monetary value, too.

[63lyman]

thanks for all the advice. Things arent as bad st I thought after some disassembly this weekend. House hunting has put a damper on things, but I'm excited about the progress I have made.

I am definitely going for as good of a restoration as I can possibly do/afford. I have decided to just replace full ribs, and honestly depending on how things go, I might just do them all....one at a time.

I have the entire interior out and am looking to take the front deck off probably this weekend.

I'll snap some pics tonight.

SO here's my planking quesion:

I know the scarphs are SUPPOSED to be pointed to pointed edge on the exterior of the hull points towards the stern, but with the advance of epoxy, is this still necessary? or since If I am going to cut them in place from the exterior of the hull, can I cut them with the front of the replacement pointing towards the bow, and the back towards the stern( a trapezoid shape?) I know it would be a hell of a lot easier...but if its a faux pas I'll suck it up...

Thanks again everyone...as things warm up around here, I'm getting excited to do some serious work.

Cheers,

-Brian

[Candyfloss]

I'm sorry, I can't understand your proposed solution to the scarf direction question.

My old boss insisted on scarfs "tailing" toward the stern, but I never saw the logic. If you hit something hard enough to lift the front edge of a "back-to-front" scarf, you are going to do major damage to your boat anyway.

[63lyman]

Candyfloss-

Thats what I was trying to describe:

bow------>

Scarph /-----------------/

vs.

Scarph /-----------------\

the second one wood be much simplier to cut from the outside of the hull, but I have always read the same thing you were describing about collision/water entry while the boat is in motion....just not sure if the effort to cut the first example is really worth having to cut them from the inside of the boat around the ribs....

Thanks for the input.(you were right by the way....my description wasnt so hot, I edited it and then did these beautiful pics to hopefully clarify)

-Brian

[John P Lebens]

Scanning this thread, I did not see any references to the original manufacturer of Lyman paints and varnishes - Check this site:

www.sanpaco.com/

[mucrewbtp]

John,

That is correct, the Sandusky Paint Company supplied all of the original paint and finishes for the Lyman factory. They also have the formulation for some original Chris Craft finishes as well, including the correct color mahogany filler stain. I get my red lead there and the Lyman sand tan bilge paint. They are very helpful and knowledgable people, the store is located right near down town Sandusky.

[63lyman]

Thanks, VERY helpful with the ORIGINAL paints/varnishes!

[Candyfloss]

Quote:

the second one wood be much simplier to cut from the outside of the hull, but I have always read the same thing you were describing about collision/water entry while the boat is in motion....just not sure if the effort to cut the first example is really worth having to cut them from the inside of the boat around the ribs....

That would be reason enough for me to do it your way.

[63lyman]

Here's the pic I promised a while ago of the interior removed.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S5kNcp5Y1JI/AAAAAAAAAhU/7Eww9lBloZ8/s640/IMG_1231.JPG

She's coming along quite well. Sugaring season has unfortunately gotten in the way of progress though. Hopefully more work or cleanup will get done inthe next week.

-Brian

[63lyman]

tonight I took off the front deck and trim, guess what? More rot!!!
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S6QUNoBibdI/AAAAAAAAAiI/JyRNZpRPOXQ/s512/IMG_1234.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S6QUOCnLyyI/AAAAAAAAAiM/zFRkzplJzK8/s512/IMG_1242.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S6QUOj4yXQI/AAAAAAAAAiQ/TOdgbkY3nSM/s512/IMG_1240.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S6QUPGSCGCI/AAAAAAAAAiU/dFw5BMac9Lw/s512/IMG_1243.JPG

Then I pulled some nails...a ton of freakin nails...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S6QRqFIGYRI/AAAAAAAAAiA/3LT1MV6j3Cw/s512/IMG_1254.JPG

Things aren't as bad as they look, I'm excited about the progress, and things are getting closer to actual rebuilding!!!

[63lyman]

deck off:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Czljowrfh9A/S6QRpZCs9nI/AAAAAAAAAh8/jkfA2kJNdkg/s512/IMG_1252.JPG

forgot this one, Decks are off!!! nails are gone!!!

[Gluesniffer]

It's amazing to me how all Lyman's look the same. When they were new, they all looked the same and now that they're old, they all look the same! Those pic's look exactly like almost every other Lyman 15 I've seen pulled apart. Same problems showing up in the same areas!!

I guess that means you've got a "normal" boat!!

Keep it up, you're doing good.

[63lyman]

Ok, ITs been a while...I bought a house and moved the boat, also picked up a couple more projects :-). hoping to get back on this full time once I have patched the 3ft hole is my DS-16 I just aquired for free. Just need the temps to warm up a little so the epoxy will cure.

In the mean time I have completely wooded the hull to the point where I have to flip to finish. As it is winter I have lost one of the bays in the garage(to my fiance's car) which is making simultaneous work on the 2..or 3 if you count the canoe...boats tough. I really need to flip it, but am waiting to get the sailboat out.

I need to start locating the ribstock for this project. Anyone have any good resouces in the proximity of Burlington VT for white oak? I can imagine air dried would be fine as the ribs are so small...any help would be appreciated. I'll post updated pics tonight.

thanks.

[63lyman]

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_Czljowrfh9A/TWOy9P1ZFFI/AAAAAAAAAoc/WKqhhtW1me0/s640/CIMG0206.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_Czljowrfh9A/TWOy9ZzeI7I/AAAAAAAAAog/otm2Pfq_QOY/s640/CIMG0205.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_Czljowrfh9A/TWOy9pZw93I/AAAAAAAAAok/1jRZf2APv7U/s512/CIMG0207.jpg




https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_Czljowrfh9A/TWOy-cF_JqI/AAAAAAAAAos/MC9hwcSt3go/s640/CIMG0210.jpg

[63lyman]

Still working on this!!! Have the stem removed, and keel off-- found the entire keelson to be rotted, there's going to be some deep surgery..pics coming

[63lyman]

1784

[Cogeniac]

I am not too familiar with Lymans, and most of my work has been on larger carvel planked boats, but here's my 2 cents...

I'd replace the transom. From what you are describing, it is a hot mess. If you fab a new one using templates from the old one, you will have a beautiful and strong new transom instead of a questionable repair with correspondingly questionable cosmetics. Making a new one should be pretty easy, and once it is fitted it will help stabilize the rest of the boat. You might want to tackle it in this order:

Replace every other rib, one at a time. your ribs look OK at the turn of the bilge, so if the they really are solid, then scarf in new lower sections (which look pretty flat). The new ribs will strengthen the entire boat. Once they are in, then fix the keel, and then finally the planks.There are lots of books that describe the plank spiling process, so that should not be THAT hard. The boat isn't that big, so the planks should be pretty manageable.

As for finishing the inside...sandpaper is your friend. The heat gun will remove any major buildup, but it all looks like pretty nasty peely old coatings. that should sand off easily. You should sand any planks you are not replacing where the frame is, when the frame/rib is out.

Take your time...

[pcford]

I am not too familiar with Lymans, and most of my work has been on larger carvel planked boats, but here's my 2 cents...

I'd replace the transom. From what you are describing, it is a hot mess. If you fab a new one using templates from the old one, you will have a beautiful and strong new transom instead of a questionable repair with correspondingly questionable cosmetics. Making a new one should be pretty easy, and once it is fitted it will help stabilize the rest of the boat. You might want to tackle it in this order:

Replace every other rib, one at a time. your ribs look OK at the turn of the bilge, so if the they really are solid, then scarf in new lower sections (which look pretty flat). The new ribs will strengthen the entire boat. Once they are in, then fix the keel, and then finally the planks.There are lots of books that describe the plank spiling process, so that should not be THAT hard. The boat isn't that big, so the planks should be pretty manageable.

As for finishing the inside...sandpaper is your friend. The heat gun will remove any major buildup, but it all looks like pretty nasty peely old coatings. that should sand off easily. You should sand any planks you are not replacing where the frame is, when the frame/rib is out.

Take your time...


I agree with the opinions above...however, in regard to refinishing the inside of a labstrake boat....it is one of the nastiest jobs in boat restoration. There is no easy way to do it. Try different methods...if a heat gun works great. The way I have ended up doing it is to use stripper followed by sanding. You could remove half the frames as suggested above then do stripping and sanding in those frame bays...then strip and sand the other half when you do those. Spray on the finish...ain't easy. good luck!

[63lyman]

appreciate all the input. I have the keel off, do you still think it would be best to flip and address the ribs first? I was going to remove garboard, do keel/keelson, then planking, then ribs, then transom. I though it would be best to tackle the hardest part first.

ALso, I've heard bad things about red oak, but I have a large supply of it already that was sawn off my family farm. Would it be ok to use for ribs? I plan on coating in CPES after.....I'm just having a hard time sourcing good white oak around and this sis so readily available to me.....

Thanks for all the input.

-Brian

[Cogeniac]

From what I understand, red oak has a totally different cell structure that makes it unsuitable for boat applications (I think it sucks up water and then rots), so despite the lure of its availability, don't use it.

If the keel is off,then replace it and the transom before flipping the boat.It is probably pretty fragile right now, and you don't want it to fall apart or go all wonky on you.

[63lyman]

Well a little more progess-- built a new section of the stem, and have pulled all of the center plank and keel...a little sad looking.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ra3APQMlUdk/Txx6LfbGxiI/AAAAAAAAAr8/rJD4OPI8uos/s640/IMG00050-20120121-2159.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k0izwmcRAwc/Txx6LesXsCI/AAAAAAAAAr8/VkIrRL3OFuU/s640/IMG00051-20120121-2159.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Rn5iwbkl00/Txx6Lf1FZXI/AAAAAAAAAr8/QjBNwJPus44/s640/IMG00052-20120121-2159.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aEoLNmBu2VI/Txx7g450kTI/AAAAAAAAAss/lwh0vF6yEcQ/s512/IMG00048-20120118-2132.jpg

[63lyman]

After screwing up the stem I had made trying to shape it a little better with the belt sander....

Built a new transom knee out of mahogany:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k9rkPYg4CKU/Tx4yxQHW2uI/AAAAAAAAAto/koPcQ11OMQw/s512/Transom%2520Knee-1.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PkHEGRVtdC4/Tx4yyOSgynI/AAAAAAAAAtw/q8m7FeLZVn0/s640/Transom%2520knee-2.jpg

one small step at a time...piece by piece.

[Kudzu]

ALso, I've heard bad things about red oak, but I have a large supply of it already that was sawn off my family farm. Would it be ok to use for ribs? I plan on coating in CPES after.....I'm just having a hard time sourcing good white oak around and this sis so readily available to me.....


Only if you like replacing ribs, because with red oak, you will be replacing them again soon. Leave the red oak for furniture building. It is not a boat building lumber.
This is a good place to listen to everyone's advice.

[63lyman]

Definitely going to stay away from the Red oak due to much advice. Thanks for the input.

[Tom Robb]

Looks like there's a bit more grain run-out on those knees than ideal.
You can guess how I'd know that.

[63lyman]

Yeah...the chip in the front notch on the new one isnt as bad as it looks, but in 56 years it will probably look exactly like the old one.

[cooperg]

63lyman. Here is mine a 1957-15.5, My only regrets, there wasn't Internet in 1993.

[63lyman]

A little more progress--built a new stem piece, better than the first one I f'd up with the belt sander. Also built the front interiorkeel section.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L3bTQ-FkLBU/TyIaaJW4crI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/ZIuxZER3gf8/s640/stem%20section.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lLU2HLaUmcQ/TyIaZrUS2TI/AAAAAAAAAuM/fYf6CnUhAkc/s640/new%20stem%20section.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o-4sq0k9dxQ/TyIaoyPOSEI/AAAAAAAAAuw/Qu4ApVUyHYk/s512/keel%20section.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bTDQYnPJEJk/TyIaZk-dWcI/AAAAAAAAAu0/ZHzxvbBNnS0/s512/keel%20section_1.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3Ely09jeY4g/TyIaZsQA9kI/AAAAAAAAAu4/LAWMkwF6Cy8/s512/keel%20section_2.jpg

[63lyman]

cut and glued the scarp in the ply for the center plank tonight:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6lAhUiu0HMw/TyiwDNVArZI/AAAAAAAAAvM/Aqy0y1EslAg/s512/scarph%201.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6_D6tC8uFWY/TyiwDWR1qpI/AAAAAAAAAvU/hgm9Am-0c_E/s640/scarph%202.jpg

Not super psyched with the quality of the douglas fir marine ply I got...really going to have to seal it in west good...

[mucrewbtp]

The douglas fir ply you can get now is pretty bad, especially the thinner stuff. I would suggest using Meranti marine ply, it seems to be of much higher quality and has many more plies than the fir. I am using 1/2" Hydrotek Meranti in all of the planking repairs in my current Lyman project and so far I have had consistently good results with it. If you plan to use the fir and just seal it well I would suggest using Smiths CPES which will soak deep into the wood, especially the end grain. West will really just sit on top and eventually crack and start to let water in but not out, you will eventually breed rot that way.

Regards,
Mike

[Kudzu]

I build fuselage frame kayaks and I finally gave up on 'so called' marine grade DF plywood. The quality kept getting worse and worse and price was going up. I started finding voids inside when I cut it up. The the last I got the face was very rough and that was the last straw.

[63lyman]

Thanks for the feedback. Might go with the cpes-- I was planning on painting the interior of the hull with it anyway.

[vtlyman]

Brian,

I have a virtually identical boat - 56 Lyman here in Vermont on the future project list. I am enjoying your progress as I plan my project.

Mark

[63lyman]

Mark-

I shot you a PM-- would be fun to have a twin out there on Champlain.

Here is my progress form yesterday. New Keel Mocked up, screwed the bottom section of the knee in as well--keep breaking the reused screws so now I"m waiting for a shipment form Doc Lyman:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z1NsMNFqSFA/Ty6keaswoHI/AAAAAAAAAwk/_cFhLch1Sic/s512/keel-2.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QFq5L5LfsAs/Ty6kgH0jd2I/AAAAAAAAAwg/G87zGv-4l5k/s512/keel-3.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3N0Y7o8KmH4/Ty6kfN0Ex5I/AAAAAAAAAwc/k7pxQs8pOCk/s640/keel_1.jpg

[63lyman]

Still no fasterners(obviosly, since I last posted yesterday) Cleaned and organized the shop a little.I was sick of moving my individual outboard stands around, so I built a "swingarm" that lets me move all three of them 180 degrees around in a section of my shop. Allows me to have two full length 2-car deep bays on each side when down the center, or 2/3rds on either side. Quite happy with it. much easier to move around.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mgU9s_rAL4U/Ty79kchj0BI/AAAAAAAAAxI/6fH7zo8kMQI/s640/motors1.jpg

From left to right: 1957 evinrude 35hp lark, 1956 johnson javelin 30hp(going on the lyman), 1957 johnson goldern javelin(going on the 1958 cadillac eldorado aluminum boat next in line for restoration). All running but the lark which is currently a donor motor....

Close up(opposite order as described)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SgI5ebmdv_0/Ty79kyCwSNI/AAAAAAAAAxI/qX85ygYfT7Q/s640/motors2.jpg

While cleaning up some scrap in the garage, I mated a VT castinvs grill side burner wit a 1950's craftsman table saw body to make myself a new burner for steaming....was going to weld a frame, this was a lot easier!!!!!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xrUwIZqT4NE/Ty79lXXjR0I/AAAAAAAAAxI/mUjSX56CgdA/s640/burner.jpg

Still waiting patiently for my fasteners...if dont get them soon with my habits I'll find another project....there's a 30 foot cris craft on the shore up the road that's been there for YEARS......worried I might walk up the road and offer to get it out of their yard...

[63lyman]

Slow night, waiting for a new frearson driver to show up for the screws...

Cut out a bad plank spot and cut the scarphs.

My scarphing tools:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dkzkVFgksJM/TzHb5GIBMfI/AAAAAAAAAx4/PP-sh5RqqeM/s640/scarphing tools.jpg

First side:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fmpcjbPtl9k/TzHb5pbAz7I/AAAAAAAAAyA/Re0rTt5MYvU/s512/scarph1.jpg

Second scarph

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ePqW_EPcI5M/TzHb6L5NtNI/AAAAAAAAAyM/BkzGThkm33M/s512/scarph 3.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XusMUIp4KyY/TzHb7HWTwdI/AAAAAAAAAx4/qyGdGYBLjeU/s640/scarph 2.jpg

[63lyman]

Replaced the forward plank section today:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nXXl3J-wasQ/TzRmLYg7kXI/AAAAAAAAAzU/2pWQRawzdTI/s640/IMG00100-20120209-1405.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KmvkOxkQdxU/TzRmMUk4mnI/AAAAAAAAAzU/ID4GZAdioOU/s640/IMG00101-20120209-1406.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h8ef2Fl6HBo/TzRmMUvM0nI/AAAAAAAAAzU/U9U2KO9_RAM/s640/IMG00098-20120209-1405.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KqOA0OhggQM/TzRmMMbIsuI/AAAAAAAAAzU/iB-OAlfptzQ/s640/IMG00097-20120209-1405.jpg

Cut out some badk plank areas towards the stern:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NdPHA5rDNas/TzRmKlyfFkI/AAAAAAAAAzU/tuJCGfg6Ejk/s512/IMG00103-20120209-1752.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-clGCbOwke0o/TzRmMuWm26I/AAAAAAAAAzU/5VWJXjKiSuc/s640/IMG00102-20120209-1751.jpg

[63lyman]

Scarphed a plank end today, and started getting the starboard garboard repaired:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dAZTIkOulWc/TzbhyjS_hqI/AAAAAAAAA1A/avWqY5R1qag/s512/plank%20end%202.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8m7-_hGL-zc/TzbhzCS99XI/AAAAAAAAA1E/0tnXY0Oquqk/s512/plank%20end%203.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_u-wTShhgmE/TzbhznMUnSI/AAAAAAAAA0w/V6YkV2bV1I4/s640/plank%20end%201.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KRwadLiLDjw/Tzbh0ZdCGII/AAAAAAAAA1I/E8BGYYC-AVo/s512/barboard%20scarph.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2nCSdswS8VY/Tzbh076zq6I/AAAAAAAAA0w/BNDaB1EMSoE/s640/garboard%20gluing.jpg

[63lyman]

Another plank scarph; pictures might get repetitive and boring fo the next week or so...

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Wp1PgMNsBW0/TzghlHtfOPI/AAAAAAAAA2E/7zr7u0bVhdA/s576/plank%20scarph.jpg

[mucrewbtp]

Looking good, I know what you mean about the pictures getting repetitive I am replacing a bunch of planks on mine now. To the casual observer it would appear that I am just posting the same thing over and over again.

Regards,
Mike

[63lyman]

Another plank:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7_tkZVjkf_Q/T0rbT1gGEvI/AAAAAAAAA2g/KYlQTVThYsw/s640/IMG00138-20120226-1248.jpg

Also picked up this incredible table saw/jointer combo for FREE on friday in the local paper...a little tuning and cleaning and this thing will be amazing:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DkT4qTXls1M/T0rbTFux54I/AAAAAAAAA2g/r0K8vloOoDs/s640/IMG00139-20120226-1257%281%29.jpg

[63lyman]

Another plank dry fitted for glue up tomorrow night

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZILCemQGksY/T1WQoo4Jd5I/AAAAAAAAA20/93fWUi9Iqwk/s640/IMG00144-20120304-1710.jpg

[nedL]

I've been following your progress, .. Very nice! Also great find on the Rockwell(?) tablesaw/jointer, they are great combinations when space is at a premium and you don't need to be working with big lumber.

[63lyman]

close-- It's a delta/homecraft combo-- 3/4hp runs great, and the knifes are very sharp. Came with over a dozen blades including dados...pretty amazing for free. Thanks for the encouragement!