Need help selecting wood

[Flamingo]

Hello everyone. I starting my second boat project in a few weeks. My first, the Harbor Skiff designed by Walter Simmons, was a plywood/epoxy project and came out pretty nice. My next attempt will be another Simmons design, his Lobsterman's Skiff. I intend to build it with no plywood and no epoxy.
I'm looking for suggestions on what wood to use for the bottom. The planking will be cedar and the frames red oak, both obtained locally (Rhode Island). I'm thinking of using a workboat finish for the inside bottom, maybe linseed oil and turpentine.
Can I use spruce or is it too soft and absorbent?
My second question has to do with fasteners. Any problem to use American-made stainless screws?
Some background: I'm building this boat, as well as the last one, with my 86 year old dad. He built me a couple of skiffs when I was just a small prankster.
Thanks for your guidance.

[cedargoose]

Im sure im wrong but i think your right too soft, most will probably say mahogany. Is this boat to be trailord?. Nice project for u and dad, good luck!

[Thorne]

Welcome to the Forum!

A lot depends on how long you want this boat to last. Any sort of heirloom build for you and the family, or will it be OK to chainsaw it when your Dad gets tired of using it? Can we assume it will be dry-sailed / trailered?

Red oak, while readily available and cheap, is usually not considered a boatbuilding wood due to turning black and rotting quickly when wet. Spruce has a similar reputation, and should be too soft and rot-prone to make a good bottom. Spruce can be great for masts, spars and some interior trim - none of which get too beat up or fully immersed.

Good-quality marine-grade 18-8 stainless screws should work, but opinion here is divided on use when sealed away from the oxygen that keeps 'em from corroding.

You might also ask the folks at DuckTrap about recommendations for materials for their design.

[Bob Smalser]

... Lobsterman's Skiff....planking will be cedar and the frames red oak, both obtained locally (Rhode Island).

Can I use spruce or is it too soft and absorbent?

My second question has to do with fasteners. Any problem to use American-made stainless screws?


http://www.duck-trap.com/me-skiff2.jpg

Spend a little more to buy White Oak instead of rot-prone Red. You don't need enough of it to be concerned about cost. You can use spruce for the thwarts but 3/4" cedar works just as well, is lighter and won't rot.

Cedar will be perfect for the bottom if you leave it a little thicker (3/4-7/8") and add a couple oak stringers inside and out after caulking to act as replaceable runners. Make a SS or bronze skid plate for the area beneath the stem:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7309305/260544228.jpg

If bronze ring-shank nails (preferred) are too expensive these days, I'd use galvanized boat nails instead of 18-8. Their lifespan is more predictable. What does Simmons recommend to fasten those laps?

http://store.tremontnail.com/images/cbz-big.jpg

http://store.tremontnail.com/cgi-bin/tremontnail/items?mv_arg=32

Last, if compact storage isn't an issue and you intend to use this skiff on any body of water larger than a 5-acre mill pond, then I'd build the longer Harbor Skiff instead. It'll be much easier to row and more comfortable in a chop.

[Flamingo]

Thanks to Cedargoose, Thorne, and Bob. It will be easy enough to use white oak in place of red. Cedar planks & bottom it is. A couple oak runners, or skegs, shouldn't add much weight or affect balance. I will try to post photos as the project progresses.
I intend to give away the boat when it's done; I don't need a boat and my dad, by his own admission, is a bit too old to be climbing in and out of a skiff. It's mostly a project to keep dad busy and for me to learn some of his skills.