View Full Version : Repairing a Teak Bow Sprit
redshift721
12-13-2009, 04:34 PM
Hello everyone. I am a new member of the forum in the midst of a very challenging project. I am the proud owner of a 1975 Vagabond 47 and I am doing a total refit. Although not wooden, she is wrapped in teak inside and out and I have a lot of wood working ahead of me. I am currently focused on the solid teak bow sprit. It is over 12 feet long and 10" x 12" at the widest point. There are several areas where bolts ran through the sprit that have rotted. I was hoping to repair these areas by removing the rotten wood and insering teak plugs. After removing the paint, I discovered that several areas had been repaired in the past using this approach. However, I am concerned about strength. Has anyone done anything like this before and, if so, do you have any advice? Many thanks!
TimmS
12-13-2009, 06:37 PM
Photos are always helpful. Many here will have good advise. Are you sure it's teak? That would be really heavy for a bowsprit, especially one that size.
And welcome to the forum!
redshift721
12-13-2009, 09:10 PM
Timm,
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Attached you will find a couple of photos. I am pretty sure that it is teak, but I could be wrong.
http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz226/redshift721/bow%20sprit/
Lucky Luke
12-13-2009, 09:59 PM
Hi Tim,
That is definitely NOT teak but some kind of reddish wood like what is found all round SE Asia (and Taiwan), often prone to rot. You will also find that quite a lot of the wood, inside and outside, is not teak either...and "a lot of wood working" is ahead of you, certainly!
Since these boats carry quite some sail on their bowsprit, better be careful...and - if you don't mind - make a new one, using (depending of where you are) more appropriate timber.
These Vagabonds are very pleasant boats to wonder around with, anyway! Not the fastest, but nice live-aboard :)
Thorne
12-13-2009, 10:33 PM
Please go to the USER CP link in the upper left and modify your profile to show your location -- will save a lot of typing and questions.
Personally, if you plan much offshore work or sail in heavy weather, I'd sure be tempted to replace the whole spar with Doug Fir or whatever you can afford that is strong and possibly local. But I'm a small boat guy, so you will want opinions from those experienced with larger boats.
Here’s how to post photos on this forum:
First - don’t attach photos. Only a tiny version will display.
Second - Post the photos on the web. Use your own website, or a free image hosting service like www.flickr.com, picturetrail, photobucket, etc.
Once posted on the web, right-click the photo to copy the URL (web address).
{For Flickr only: view the image by clicking on it. Then click the small link named ALL SIZES with the magnifying glass icon. Once the larger image is displayed, scroll down and you'll see two options for linking the image on websites. Select and copy the second one -- or just right-click the enlarged image to get the image location.}
Always test first by pasting the photo URL into the location field (http:// ) of a web browser and see if the photo displays.
Third - once posted on the web, try this procedure while logged in to this Forum:
1. Click the “User CP” link in the browser window in the top left of the menu bar.
2. Click the “Edit Options” link about halfway down the left column.
3. In the “Misc Options” at the bottom of the next page, select “Enhanced Interface” from the pulldown list.
4. Once this interface has been selected, in any “Reply” window you can click the “insert photo” icon --> a little yellow square icon with the stamp in the upper right corner, the mountains in the lower center. http://woodenboat.com/forum/images/editor/insertimage.gif
5. Once the little dialog box titled “Please enter the URL of your image” comes up, paste the URL of the photo in the field.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
If unsure of the procedure, test first by pasting the photo URL into the location field (http:// ) of a web browser.
Remember, the PHOTO URL will end in .jpg, not .htm or html. URLs ending in .htm are the page that the image is at, not the photo location itself. If the photo URL ends in other code, try deleting everything after the “xxxxxx.jpg” part of the URL to get it to display on web forums.
Ian McColgin
12-14-2009, 08:51 AM
Anyway, on to the bow sprit. It will be far easier to make a new one. If you can't find a single stick you can laminate one easily enough. You may or may not want to stick to the original design depending on crans and gammon irons, etc.
An aside: Many rig a chain as the bobstay, thinking it stronger and saltier than stainless cable. Negatory. Chain is prone to stretching till it simply breaks. Also every link-to-link is a cluster of corrosion sites in waiting.
I do not feel that a turnbuckle is at all necessary. Measure very accurately for the set-up to be a bit tight. For a sprit of this length and heft, hanging 200# off the end should steve it down about the right amount. It'll come up to about straight when you attach and tighten the jib stay. And - lo - one less part, an expensive part at that, to worry about.
Depending on the gear you have and want to reuse, there are some interesting choises about the bowsprit shape and pulpit and lifelines, perhaps. You want to consider how happy you'll be out on the end on a stark and dormy night wrestling a recalcitrant furling drum into submission.
Once you start posting pictures and designing the replacement, I'll have some comments on all that based on my experience with both safe and dangerous sprits.
G'luck
redshift721
12-14-2009, 09:18 PM
thanks everyone for the comments. i am going to take the safe route and build a new sprit. one suggestion was douglas fur. i have also been told that white ash would be good. any further thoughts on the wood that I should use? thanks again.
Ian McColgin
12-14-2009, 09:43 PM
Ash would not be my first choise as it's 70% or more heavier than the more usual spar choises of doug fir - readily available - and sitka spruce, which is considerably more expensive than anything you really need. You could even go with one of the harder pines so long as it's not pitch.
Mrleft8
12-14-2009, 10:14 PM
Don't use Ash. You'll be replacing it in a few years. D-fir would be my choice. Get good straight stock with fine grain, NO sapwood, and no wind shakes. It'll be a couple of dollars to get, but worth your life. (And less than a piece of Teak)
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.12 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.