Leeboard for MacGregor

[Dry Pond Boat Works]

Hi, I have two questions regarding the leeboard for a McGregor sailing canoe.

#1: The plans say to have a cleat on the keel (hog) to attach the leeboard's line to. I am curious how others have handled this since the keek is below the floorboards and there is only a narrow gap between the two center floorboards. Do you elevate the cleat or cut some clearance holes out of the floorboards to access the cleat?

#2: I don't have the plans in front of me but I noticed that the given attachment point for the above cleat is somewhat aft of the position of the leeboard itself. Is this for a reason? I would have expected the cleat to be inboard but longitudinally in the same position as the leeboard. Did the designer want the line running aft a bit for a reason.

Thank you very much.

[James McMullen]

Do you elevate the cleat or cut some clearance holes out of the floorboards to access the cleat?

Whatever works for you.


Did the designer want the line running aft a bit for a reason?

There's some slack in the system. You put that leeboard where it's supposed to go and water pressure will hold it against the side of the boat. You can adjust it a bit within reason.

[Steve Lansdowne]

Be sure that your normal leg position doesn't get in the way of the line from the keel to the leeboard. On my stretched Wee Rob this ended up being a problem, though with your longer boat it may not be.

[Dry Pond Boat Works]

So, it sounds like the angle of the line is not critical. I just wondered why the designer gave a specific location for it.

[Candyfloss]

Designers need to do that. It saves them getting sued. This is America isn't it?

[keyhavenpotterer]

My experience with this leeboard arrangement was very poor in every respect.

My MacGregor was an open decked version. The line when running from the designed keel fixing to the gunnel cut across the top of my legs, very uncomfortable indeed.

The leeboard hardly ever stayed properly in place, causing problems which you just do not need when sailing a canoe!

The whole arrangement I would never repeat and as much as I love Iain's designs, this leeboard arranglement, for me at least, needs replacement.

Brian

[Tom M.]

I siezed round brass thimbles to the plywood deck knees, port and stbd. Then I clip my leeboard line to that. Everytime I come about, I have to unclip, move the leeboard to the opposite side and reclip. It's a pain, but at least the line doesn't cut into my thighs like it would if it clipped to the keel.

What I really need to do is run a line athwartships from thimble to thimble, then clip to the line. But what I really really need to do it build it again with a modified gunnel that I mount pivoting leeboards to. But why do that when I can just build a boat that'll go to weather. I can barely head upwind.

The location of the mounting isn't too critical, as long as you are in the ballpark. It's easy to move the boards fore an aft to trim while underway.

[skuthorp]

I've sailed a decked Macgreggor for about 9 years. No floorboards, a nuisance. Leeboard anchored to keel via a SS karabiner with 3 anchor points about 12 cm apart. Thumb cleat on gunwales to anchor leeboard line in most used position. Lengthened cockpit 12" aft gives a more practical cockpit for two.
Deflector forward of mast (balanced lug rig).
A friend has installed permanent double leeboards via through hull fittings but I find the single leeboard is easy enough to handle and does not disturb the lines of the hull permanently. Also movement of the crew and leeboard changes the sailing characteristis and ease of coming about. With a Proa sail you do not need a rudder anyway, just a long paddle.
If you do a search on the forum you will find discussions going back years. Good luck with her, I find mine a permanent delight and I row it on a regular basis as well.

[andrewdarius]

I've posted these in the past, but I know the search function is less than ideal, so here's what we did...

I have to agree with folks who gave up on the line from the keel method. We tried it and after the first sail, immediately began designing a new way. After a few over-engineered versions, we finished tinkering with this method. A hole thru the sheer, and a bolt with cam-action lever to lock the board.

This is the exterior, showing a pad glued on to thicken/reinforce the area with brass bushing.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7ce36b3127ccec237076cb94100000010O00BatGzhwzcMQ e3nww/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The interior with bronze plate to handle the stress of the cam.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7ce36b3127ccec23740eff97900000010O00BatGzhwzcMQ e3nww/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

And a shot from a camping trip showing how the cam can exert enough force to keep the boards up when in the shallows.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9df07b3127ccec66148b115ca00000040O00BatGzhwzcMQ e3nww/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

This is a nice feature if you want to raise the windward board after coming about. You can set the cam with enough pressure to easily raise and lower it while tacking.

For fun, here's a shot of the over-engineered version that bruised its share of finger-tips.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7ce36b3127ccec236c08a582000000010O00BatGzhwzcMQ e3nww/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/