bottom paint

[phisherman]

looking for recomendations on good/inexpensive botom paint and primer for use around sf bay. also any concerns on hauling a tight seam(glued i beleive) sail aux. should i worry about planks shrinking, pulling apart, fasteners. can i replace steamed frames as one would normally with carvel planking. any info on this type of construcion would be helpfull. also the frames are not as wide as they are deep, seems like wierd scantlings. thanks for helping

[Gary E]

Red Hand and pepper

http://lists.samurai.com/piperm ail/trawlers-and-trawlering/1998-October/005575.html (http://lists.samurai.com/pipermail/trawlers-and-trawlering/1998-October/005575.html)

There is another thread where bottom paint was discussed and this product was sugested, perhaps those who know how to use the search thingie can find it..it looks worth a try to me....
http://www.sanitred.com/

[ 01-21-2005, 09:04 PM: Message edited by: Gary E ]

[sdowney717]

properties page for Permaflex is
http://www.sanitred.com/permaqualities.htm
All you need is the Permaflex - AR (aromatic) version.

Permaflex - AL (aliphatic) is ment for 100% UV protection and costs more and should only be applied when temps are warm suc as around 70.

I can tell you I have used a lot and it does what they claim it does. It wont stick to oily or dirty surfaces. It does form a rubber like sheet over what ever it is painted onto. It can even be used to glue things together. And will harden even in really cold weather.

One of their quotes,
SANI-TRED Permaflex is completely water-proof, "not water resistant" like other products, even in the presence of constant immersion, standing water on a raw edge or even negative hydrostatic pressure.

[Roger Cumming]

I would not use Red Hand, an Interlux product with not enough copper in it. Interlux does make Bottomkote (NOT Fiberglass Bottomkote, just Bottomkote), a soft paint with adequate copper. It is an old fashioned "sloughing" paint that works well on sailboats. The paint gradually rubs off, leaving you with not too much work in the spring when repainting. Modern "ablative" paints are hard finishes with a biocide that leaches out. However, most of the rest of the paint remains, leaving you with a lot of work in the spring. Ablative paints are more expensive, too.

Bottomkote seems to be the only soft old fashioned paint still available.

[JimConlin]

The ablative paints are not hard. They are designed to slough off at about the same rate that the toxicant (generally cuprous oxide) leaches out. Consequently, you always have a fresh surface of bad-tasting paint.
If the paint is still there, it's good and working. If it's not then clean up a little and re-paint.
With non-ablative paint, the toxicant leaches out of the binder over a period and leaves a paint that, while still there, is not toxic. It's got to be removed, sooner or later. THis can be a lot of unpleasant work.
Ablative paints save this effort. You don't need to remove them, which is a good thing.

[Paul Stohlman]

Tight seamed boats were not glued on the plank edges originally. There were various ways to crush or distort the edges so that they would swell tight and be waterproof. German built Concordia Yawls were tight seamed. The youngest of these are nearly 40 years old now, and all that I've seen look great.

I have seen a tight seamed six metre that was hauled for a long time, and leaked badly when she went back in the water. I think she eventually was repaired by splining. Metre boats are lightly built and raced hard.

If you have your boat out of the water long enough to have a gap develop between the planks, don't put anything into the gap that won't squeeze out when the planks swell. Use your boat gently until the planks swell.

Here in the Puget Sound, I use Trinidad anti fouling paint. I suggest that you ask other boaters in your area what is best in your conditions.

[phisherman]

thanks for the recommendations, I decided against this boat as a good many of the frames are cracked, and others were pulling away from the planking. I instead decided to start building an atkin bluebird, the lines to me are marvelous. but i would like to build it as a lapstrake. is this a good idea?