red lead paint alternatives

[captain champlain]

Does anyone have any good alternatives to lead paint for sealing new materials.Floors,frames,butt blocks,s.keel etc.

[Thorne]

Just sealing? CPES is a good primer/sealer.

More info, boat size, materials, usage, etc...

[michigangeorge]

Why would you want to use anything else when red lead is still available from kirbypaint.com ?

[outofthenorm]

Same question as George. IMHO nothing really replaces red lead paint.

- Norm

[The549]

mb some dye

[wizbang 13]

Interlux 404/414, epoxe barrier coat CPES is good, but it cures very slowly.

[Bob Cleek]

CPES "cures" fully over about three days. It can be coated with paint or varnish within an hour or three. In fact, the product directions recommend this, as it supposedly makes a better (molecular) bond with the subsequent coating.

Much as I love Kirby's and the "beauty" of a nice traditionally framed boat with her timbers primed in the orange of red lead, I have to say that I really don't think it is all that special a sealer coating. It's good, as far as oil based paint goes, but then so's all lead based paint. On the other hand, CPES probably provides as much protection, given its penetrating and sealing properties and does red lead with it's lead content. The "test of time" is hard to pass and once passed, ought to be respected, but there are on occasion products, particularly in the area of chemistry, that come along and fall into the "better mousetrap" category.

I do so wish the Chemist was still around to comment on this. We really need another Chemist in here to give us the scientific facts on things like this.

[Todd D]

I am using Interlux Bilgecoat. It seems to soak into the wood very well. The first coat pretty much disappears. I find that three coats are generally adequate. I am coating ecery piece of wood on all sides before it goes into the boat.

[dlongworth]

I am restoring a 19'7" Albury Skiff. I ran into this same problem. After visiting the Newport boat show and speaking with the Interlux rep I decided to go with Interlux Primocon. It's an Interlux primer that is good above and below the water line. Primocon is advertised as a metal primer but is good for wood also per the side of the can and the Interlux guy. It is what they recommend for a primer on Wooden boats prior to bottom painting.
I also used CPES Smith on the topsides down to the boot stripe, but decided not to use CPES on her bottom for fear it would impede the swelling process.

[john92021]

We had a good laugh on my last job when we ordered some red lead paint, the can said "contains no lead". Had good color but read the contents. I'm not saying they all don't, probably just illegal in CA.
John

[RFNK]

I do so wish the Chemist was still around to comment on this. We really need another Chemist in here to give us the scientific facts on things like this.


Have to agree with this!! I'm always a bit skeptical of these paints that supposedly `soak in'. For example, Everdure, of which we hear so much, is really, I think, an epoxy with heaps of solvent in it that simply evaporates away as it's applied. Does it really soak in or just give the impression of soaking in? The logic of a solvent to help the soaking in process makes sense but once the solvent has evaporated away or soaked away from the remaining epoxy, what is actually left? I know there are pages and pages of discussion already about CPES etc. but it would be great to have a really good, objective study of these various products that are designed to penetrate and protect. Rick