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Dave Gray
10-19-2009, 10:21 PM
I have a Grizzly G0555 14" bandsaw that has been quite useful. I put a Lennox 1/4" bi-metal blade on it and it has done everything I have asked of it. Lately I have been thinking about resawing pieces that are 8" or 9". An extension block would allow me to go from 6" to 12". I am just not sure if the saw is up to the task, even if I put a 1/2" blade on it. Has anyone used an extension block on a 14" bandsaw and if so, what did you think of it? I realize I might not get the smoothest results.

goodbasil
10-19-2009, 10:28 PM
It'll work. Make sure your blade is sharp a set correctly. More important than a big honk'n motor.

David G
10-19-2009, 11:48 PM
Dave - looks like that's a 1 hp single phase 110 motor. Should handle a riser block just fine, and - with the right blade - most resawing tasks. 11" white oak might slow you down and limit the quantity you can move thru it, but most domestic hardwoods should be fine, and all of the boatbuilding softwoods will be easy. You'll definitely want to tune it up, dial it in, and maybe do some upgrades to tires and guides (if you haven't already).

Mrleft8
10-20-2009, 09:02 AM
My old Delta 14" with the riser block had little problems resawing all but the toughest wood (Maple specifically) at full height with just the stock 1/2hp motor, and a new 1/2" 3tpi blade.

SMARTINSEN
10-20-2009, 12:08 PM
I have the Grizzly 555X with a riser. 1-1/2 h.p. It will re-saw to the full 12" if the task is approached cautiously. I have found that a sharp blade (new) along with accurate alignment of the wheels, table, fence and guides and sufficient tension counts for just as much as enough power.

Dave Gray
10-20-2009, 12:57 PM
Thank you for the replies. Looks like a worthwhile investment.

I have never fussed too much about fence alignment. If I use a small blade, 1/4", I find that I get a pretty smooth cut regardless of a hardwood or softwood. My theory is that with plenty of tension and a thin blade the chatter will be insignificant. I don't know that this will work too well with a 1/2" or 5/8" blade. I think I still would want to use a bi-metal blade.

David G
10-20-2009, 01:35 PM
Thank you for the replies. Looks like a worthwhile investment.

I have never fussed too much about fence alignment. If I use a small blade, 1/4", I find that I get a pretty smooth cut regardless of a hardwood or softwood. My theory is that with plenty of tension and a thin blade the chatter will be insignificant. I don't know that this will work too well with a 1/2" or 5/8" blade. I think I still would want to use a bi-metal blade.

Dave - you might want to consider a wider blade for re-sawing. A 1/4" blade may - even when aggressively tensioned - want to flex.

You're gonna have to buy a new suite of longer blades anyway. Might as well resign youself to having 2 - 3 sizes for different purposes.

Dave Gray
10-20-2009, 01:43 PM
David, in re-reading that post I see where it was badly worded. You are right, I would want to use a 1/2" or 5/8" blade for resaw or veneer work. What I meant to say is my not worrying about blade drift in regards to a fence probably would not work too well with a wider blade. Thanks!

goodbasil
10-20-2009, 01:46 PM
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30071&cat=1,41036,41037 Here is a good blade from the Lee Valley US site. I expect with the riser you'd need 03J57.06.

Dave Gray
10-20-2009, 02:05 PM
I've been thinking about a Lenox DieMaster 2. My old Lenox blade is a Master II. I guess it's quite old as Lenox has changed the name of its line. The Diemaster goes up to a maximum of 1/2". I wonder who makes the Lee Valley blade, it seems comparably priced.

Mrleft8
10-20-2009, 02:28 PM
Anything wider than 1/2" is actually likely to be a detriment on a small saw like yours. A wider blade = a thicker blade. A thicker blade = more power to drive it, and more heat generated which causes the blade to dull faster. Also, higher tension is not necessarily a good thing. Most good blade manufacturers will tell you to under tension their blades for more accurate cuts and longer life.

goodbasil
10-20-2009, 04:06 PM
I just phoned Lee Valley Tools. That bandsaw blade, (03J57.06) is made by Supercut Bandsaw Co., in Idaho.

Rob Stokes, N. Vancouver
10-21-2009, 12:54 PM
There's no downside to using a riser block. I put one on my 14" JET, tuned the saw up, run a 1/2" 3TPI blade and it'll resaw 10" teak very nicely. It'll do it slowly, but it'll do it nicely.