I'm sure I'm missing a bit here...

[SunshineBridge]

Hi all,
I'm hoping you might find this amusing or scary, one or the other. But at least maybe I'll get a pointer on how it should be done.

My river cruiser Sunshine Bridge has an anchor, no surprise there then. Now the anchor chain was attached to the bottom of the chain locker by a bit of 1/4" polypropeline rope. At least it couldn't all end up in the river if thrown over the side then, good. :-)

And now for the tricky bit... so the one time you need the anchor is when you've lost power and need to hold against the current while you sort this out. Surely there should be something on the foredeck to attach the anchor chain to, able to withstand the force of the current against the boat.

Well this is all I've got:
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss197/jzcktv/Sunshine%20Bridge/DSC02593.jpg

This wonderful piece of engineering in brass simply guides the chain in and out of the chain locker. It can also lock the chain in position, at least from going back in the locker. However it's only held on by 4 small screws, no way is this strong enough.

So my question is, what should the anchor chain be fixed to when in use, and shouldn't it be attached to the stem post?

The links on my chain are about 1" across and 1.5" long.

What is the recommended way of fixing the chain to the boat, other than a 1/4" polypropelene rope? :eek:

Many thanks,

[peter radclyffe]

if one day your boat is in danger
and you have to let the anchor chain go
a shackle may be seized
you can cut a rope, but it needs to be stronger than 1/4",
you can get a claw stopper from a chandler to hold your chain on deck
but you really need a winch as well

[Thad]

There should be a cleat or post on the foredeck to secure mooring lines. It would also be good for anchoring to have bow chocks to run mooring line through to avoid chafe of the rail and deck. Anyway, if mooring to chain you should have a snubber, which could be a grab hook sized to your chain with mooring line spliced to the hook. When the anchor is out with enough chain the anchor chain is hooked to the line and the line takes the load through the chocks to the mooring bitt. That way the chain is not sawing on the boat.

[BBSebens]

I really like your signature SB. really hits it on the head.

[Peerie Maa]

Whether you fit a Sampson post or cleat or chain winch for the anchor make sure that you put enough strength into the deck beams under the fitting. Broads boats were never built for anchoring (a 56lb mud weitht on some washing line usually suffices;)) so you must reinforce the deck beams with some lodging knees, and possibly a carling between two beams to prevent tripping.

[SunshineBridge]

There should be a cleat or post on the foredeck to secure mooring lines. It would also be good for anchoring to have bow chocks to run mooring line through to avoid chafe of the rail and deck. Anyway, if mooring to chain you should have a snubber, which could be a grab hook sized to your chain with mooring line spliced to the hook. When the anchor is out with enough chain the anchor chain is hooked to the line and the line takes the load through the chocks to the mooring bitt. That way the chain is not sawing on the boat.

Now this makes perfect sense as I have a central mooring post:-)

Bow Chocks I couldn't find, but I think these would be a very sensible addition.
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/ss197/jzcktv/Sunshine%20Bridge/Fairlead.jpg

Most of this is common sense.

Many thanks,

[paladin]

You need some serious 12 inch metal cleats to hold the craft in a blow. Never rely on wooden cleats for anything more than rope tails and cleaning up the decks. Bronze or stainless steel cleats of the proper size will save the boat. Mount them where the cleat is mounted between two frames below the deck and is metal, at least a 12 inch cleat, secured by 4 3/8ths inch fasteners with a steel backing plate on the inxide and wood backing at least as thick as the deck.

[Uncle Duke]

Paladin's advice is entirely correct with, perhaps, the further notation that if the cleat position is between deckbeams, then the backing plate should extend to, and be attached to (or at least very, very near to) those beams.

[SunshineBridge]

I see an upgrade to posts and fasteners coming on! She has nothing approaching this today.

As per an earlier post, it's pretty calm on the Norfolk Broads, however I've seen the Thames in full spate, and that's what started my questions on this. I knew she wasn't right!

Thanks for all the advice everyone.

[RFNK]

I see an upgrade to posts and fasteners coming on! She has nothing approaching this today.


I'll be the first to say I don't know the first thing about these boats but I'd be surprised if there isn't a strong king plank under that foredeck. If this is in good condition then you should be able to fasten a strong cleat - use a big one, through the deck to the plank. Use a backing plate of steel, tufnol or solid timber. Make sure the king plank is tied into the deck beams well. As far as judging size etc. of cleats and fairleads, think of the boat being towed in rough water. Your setup should be able to stand this. Arrange something similar at the stern as well. You never know when you might need to tow someone or be towed off a mudbank. Rick

[Larks]

Graham, I couldn't see on the first photo of your other thread but that bow line must be tied to a cleat of some sort???. I'd assume that you're anchor had a few metres of chain at the anchor end and then some rope which would most likely have been tied to whatever cleat that bow line is tied to. You wouldn't need a second cleat but a bow roller or fairlead would certainly be handy. Also the flap on the chain pipe is really more to keep the rain and sea/river out than to stop the chain.

[Larks]

Actually while you are replacing the stem you could possibly remodel it to fit a bow roller