painting and gluing

[njcoaster]

I am done my skiff, and I want to paint it in a simple, three-color scheme. I have seen exterior latex promoted as a fast, cheap, and easy solution, and I am fine with that. Boat will not be in the water too much. I also have a can of expensive spar varnish from a marine store. QUestion is:
Does varnish play nice with latex primer? I wouldn't think so, but thought I'd ask. I figure it's either varnish or latex. Can one go over the other? Bottom is fiberglassed/epoxied, interior is not.
Also - I am out of epoxy, and I don't want to buy any more. What waterproof glue can I get at home depot to attach the sheer rail?

[Jim Goodine]

Latex will go over anything oil based or epoxy with the appropriate sanding. I wouldn't use anything but latex over non-oil based primer. Do all of your varnish first then cut in the latex. That way, if you goof, then it is easy to wipe the latex off the varnish with a rag wrapped around the tip of your putty knife (reverse cutting-in?).
I think you'll be fine with something other than epoxy to install the rails. A lot of builders just bed them and fasten with screws in order to make it easier to replace them later. Best of luck with the project. Have any pictures?

[tealsmith1]

Gorilla glue or Elmers polyurethene (same thing) would probably be fine above the waterline. Wear gloves with the polyurethene, it sticks to skin quite well.

[njcoaster]

I used so much epoxy that I am ashamed of myself. I know this is not the sign of a good carpenter. Next project I am going to make my joints a bit tighter. A lot of the epoxy is in the bottom of various jars and cups in the garage, too, So I'll try to be less wasteful.

This first boat is a self-design, and I never touched pencil to paper during the whole process. I just winged it. Results are pleasing, but overall I wasted many hours and a lot of material. I was trained in the fine arts, and I tend to take a sculptural approach. Like a sculptor, I start with too much and work reductively. I had a general idea and I tried to fine tune it as I went along. Next time, I start with a plan.

It does raise interesting questions about work habits and knowing yourself. I am never methodical in anything and find that I really can't be. Makes me a very good cook sometimes, but does it mean I will always be a poor boat-builder?

Will post pix later.

[NormMessinger]

"I will always be a poor boat-builder?"

Balonney! Epoxy is just the thing for those quarter inch joints and paint hides all. (Ask me how I know and I'll lie.)

I'm looking forward to seeing your pictures.

[landlocked sailor]

Titebond II would work well to for above the waterline. It creeps but I doubt the rubrail joint would be under such strain. Can you get a good wood to wood joint though? Rick

[shadow99]

Just remember this boys, more is not always better, especially when it comes to epoxy, a close friend who built a stitch & goo 11' sailboat, buttered the inner planks smooth with a wood-flour/epoxy filler (more like "troweled" it in) :eek: . We wondered how come we went through 1 1/2 gallons of epoxy & 3 quarts of woodflour! Upon completion, we floated his boat, of course the bootstripe is 6" underwater, the freeboard has been reduced 6" as well (that's with an empty boat) :confused: .
The finished weight of the boat was supposed to be 95 lbs, his baby's bottom smooth interior cost him about another 50 pounds in "babyfat." It also made the boat handle like a tug with 50 sq ft of sail on it. More is NOT always better, (unless its $) :D .

Rick

[Cedarhill Boatworks]

The glue you're looking for are called screws. I would not use anything but epoxy or resorcinol on a boat for anything other than interior joinery.

[njcoaster]

I think I'm still on target for sub-100 pounds, but I have used a whole can of West epoxy somehow. I know it was heavy when I carried it home, too. And expensive.