View Full Version : outboard engine compatability question
09-25-2009, 12:06 PM
I have a 17 foot piece of tupperware made by the Four Winns Co. Built in 2000. It sports a 115 Evinrude outboard. The motor is blown now. Does anyone see any problems trying to put on a Johnson Seahorse, circa 1980, assuming the shaft size is proper?
I'm sorry for the tupperware - I have teenage girls. They want to be pulled around on a tube. My home built wooden Melonseed can't do that.
As long as shaft length and weight are appropriate, shouldn't be a problem. What is the HP of the Johnson?
09-25-2009, 12:15 PM
Good question - same hp - 115. Thanks.
The older engine is probably a bit heavier and bulkier. Shouldn't be a problem. Tweak the trim tabs to compensate, if the boat has ' em, or set the engine's trim a bit more down and the boat should ride the same. If all else fails, add some ballast in the bow to bring the nose down and accept that you will be a few mph slower.
09-25-2009, 12:50 PM
Not trying to hijack this thread....I think the best question is "will the powerheads interchange" If the 1980 engine is running, and well, it is possible that a powerhead swap may be the way to go. If your 2000 engine is mounted and the bottom end is good ( prop/h20 pump/lower unit not leaking in or out) why take a chance on something on the lower end of the 1980 being out of whack....Find a good marine mechanic that has been at it awhile, take a 6 pack with you (the value of the beer might be directly proportional to the value of the advice you receive) and ask the question.....Much easier to swap the powerhead than do a motor change
09-25-2009, 03:21 PM
that's a good thought too. thanks.
09-26-2009, 06:10 AM
Careful RE powerhead swap. Sometime between `80 and 2000 OMC (Johnson/Evinrude) went to a 60 deg V block over the old 90 deg V which would no doubt negate a powerhead swap.
Engine swap is easy-breezy. Attach lift cable to lift ring (I think OMC uses an attached lift ring on the flywheel shaft), or just web-strap around the powerhead. Disconnect all cables and wiring, remove four big honking bolts that hold the engine on transom, yank `er off. Reverse to install newer engine. While engine free check the bolt holes in the transom for evil rot - repair as needed.
09-26-2009, 07:49 AM
Engine swap is MUCH easier. Sell the old one for parts.
Be careful ... I buy many engines that folks think are blown! Most need a pump here or there, a carb. kit, stator, etc.
Make sure the problem you have ... in many cases it is an EASY fix.
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