Keel bolt tightening question

[5.5 Meter]

I have a keel bolt-tightening question.

http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/photo/2144


http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/photo/2141
http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/photo/2141http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/photo/2142

Particulars;
1963 32’ 5.5 meter built for 1964 Olympics
Laminated wooden keel/stem
Ballast weight of 3320 pounds
(8) ¾-inch bolts and (1) 5/8-inch bolt
The bolts are bronze machined lag-screws into the lead and nuts on the other end (floor end).

The wooden keel had delaminated so we had to remove the keel in order to re-glue the laminants. Additional work done: 95% of the frames have been replaced (steam bent with larger ones in mast area being laminated), splined about 85% of the planks (boat was organically built with glued seams), new deck, covering-board and a lot more.

The boat was built and designed by Bjarne Aas in Norway. Original launch picture and more pictures can be seen here: http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/

The question I have: Does anyone have a torque setting recommendation for setting the bolts into the lead and then for tightening the nuts on the floors?

Thanks,

Joe
http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/photo/2133



http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/photo/2118http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/photo/2132http://5.5inventory.org/USA/052/photo/2132

[L.W. Baxter]

That's a smart question and I can't help you with it, but just wanted to mention I really love this picture from your first link. Looks like the inside of a musical instrument.

http://5.5inventory.org/assets/0499/img/0499_DSC01327_512.JPG

(Let me know if you'd prefer I not post your picture here and I will remove it.)

Gorgeous, fast looking boat.

[floatingkiwi]

I am no expert but I think the "torque setting", would be different if the boat was dry or wet. I believe some folk leave the nuts a little looser until the timber takes up after launching.

[rbgarr]

Contact Wendy Goodwin at www.capecodshipbuilding.com (http://www.capecodshipbuilding.com/) . They build Shields class sloops, very close in size, shape and rig to 5.5s.

http://i35.tinypic.com/2rpbkns.jpg

They have published a keel bolt maintenance guide with torquing recommendations.

Meanwhile, nice job on the splining! Can you tell us how you did it?

http://i36.tinypic.com/23kq9gw.jpg

Good luck with her and let us know when she looks like this again! ;)

http://i37.tinypic.com/71769e.jpg

[5.5 Meter]

Meanwhile, nice job on the splining! Can you tell us how you did it?

http://i36.tinypic.com/23kq9gw.jpg

If anyone is interested in pictures you can send me your email and I would be happy to send you photos of the spline process.

Tools required:
(1) Craftsman 5.25" cordless saw, with two blades, with masking tape between the blades as a spacer (kind of like a dado blade set up). I used two layers of masking tape near the hub, with the teeth of the blades offset from each other, all up it is a little less that 1/8” thick.
(4) Batteries, the saw goes through them fast. But the cordless is light compared to holding up a standard 110 circular saw.
(1) Staple gun with stapes size sufficient so that they will not go all the way through the plank. ½” plank= 3/8” staples.
(2-3) Horse syringes. The ones that WEST sells are too small. I got mine from the local vet and then I used a heat gun to flatten the tips to the width of the seam.

Supplies you will need:
(1) Roll of two-sided foam tape. Not the stuff you can by in the hardware store, go to a local printer and ask them if you can buy some of the tape they use to mount their printing plates to their printing cylinders
(2) 15’ spiling batten. Or whatever length you care to work with. I use several different configurations, especially back aft where the batten will need to twist as it runs from along side the boat to under the counter aft. Mount two-sided tape every foot or so. Too much tape and the batten will brake when you try to remove it. I found that it is better to go with less tape and periodically replace it, for it does get saw dust on it over time.
(25) Blocks of wood 3” long by ¾” height by the width of the saw offset…the distance from the center of the two blades and the rip edge on the bed of the saw. I call these my offset blocks. Mount two-sided tape to one side.
-Your batten material, I planned my stock to ½” and then ripped down to just under the two blade width.
-Lots and lots of masking tape.


Process:
-Set the saw depth so that it does not go through the plank. I set to cut down to 3/8” on my ½” planks. Which means that the batten will protrude by 1/8”.
-Place the offset blocks every foot or so along the seam.
-Place the batten on to the hull using the offset blocks as your guide.
-Remove the offset blacks
-Make your cut
-Next, and this if very important!!!! Tape the seam on the inside of the hull to prevent the epoxy from running down the inside of the hull, When you go to push in the seam-batten into the epoxy it will push the epoxy all the way through to the inside!!!! Big mess!!! I found that 3M has two types of blue tape, one is very thin (Orange on the inside of the core) and when pressed down to the hull you can see where it is making contact and where it needs to be pressed more.
-You may also want to tape off the outside of the hull to simplify the clean up process
-Pre-coat the seam and seam-batten with epoxy. I also rounded the ends of the battens to match the radius of the saw blade and thus the cut-out.
-Use a syringe to pump the seam with epoxy/filler (about the consistency of toothpaste or a little runnier)
-Push the seam-batten in and staple it until the epoxy is set.
-Check the inside for any major blow out (I guess actually blow-ins).
-Once the epoxy is hard you can remove the staples and plane down the excess batten.

Note you will want a container with lacquer thinner that you can throw the staple gun and syringes into to soak and then clean. You may have to remove the plastic handle from the gun or just let it dissolve the first time you soak the gun. You will also have to remove the rubber stop from inside the gun and the rubber from the syringe, they cannot soak.

This is a messy process, if you are particular about your floor you will want to put something down.