These gaps in the spar. problem or not?

[CharlieCobra]

I have the boom cleaned up except for bleaching and took pictures of some gaps. It's boxed and the gaps are like 1/32" in a few places. If they're a problem, how do I fix 'em?

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee13/CharlieCobra03/Refit%2011/010.jpg

and

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee13/CharlieCobra03/Refit%2011/011.jpg

and finally

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee13/CharlieCobra03/Refit%2011/012.jpg

[MiddleAgesMan]

They look like (wide) glue lines from here. How old is the spar?

[Ian McColgin]

I'm with MiddleAgesMan. If you can't stick an exacto or razor through them, it's just glue lines. Varnish or paint and be happy.

[CharlieCobra]

It's 48 years old. I can fit an exacto in one set but not far. Should I just fill it?

[Woxbox]

But if you can slip a blade in there, epoxy will soak right in and seal it right up. The darker wood around the joint suggests water has penetrated.

To keep the job clean, just mask the area with plastic packing tape. You can fold up the edges to make a little dam so the puddled epoxy doesn't run where you don't want it to while you're giving it a couple of minutes to penetrate.

[bluedog225]

Heat (warm) the surface with a heat gun before epoxy?

[Woxbox]

Heat (warm) the surface with a heat gun before epoxy?

That makes a surprising difference -- instead of slowly sliding into the crack by capillary action, the goo gets sucked in as the wood cools. The method of choice depends if you're trying to fill a surface imperfection, or see a need to get the deepest penetration possible.

[Mrleft8]

If you fill the voids with a solid, like epoxy, you will run the risk of exacerbating the problem. When the wood swells the epoxy will act as a fulcrum, and the crack will extend. I suggest that you varnish and observe for a season.

[oakman]

I'm going to vote with varnish and observe. If it is the glue line failing, you will be in a tough spot trying to open the part you just epoxied to fix it.

Try and research the type of glue used in construction and really examine all the glue lines for signs of failure.

Oakman

[floatingkiwi]

They are only a problem if you think they are. Stop thinking they are. Do what the smart experienced few, who have told you the answer to your situation,have suggested and let it be, apart from varnish or paint, and move onto something more funner.

[Chris Coose]

I've used epoxy over the years on a 28' laminated mast for the catboat, always sticking a blade around to see it don't go in much beyond the surface.
Kinda with the authority of a dentist probing around decay.
I'll usually rap it with a hammer too.
I don't now where Victoria's mast got glued up in 1963. Coulda got done in Hong Kong but guessing by the type of wood it looks like it coulda been a domestic job. Either way, that is old glue and it lands on me to judge the safety and integrity.
I think it'll be this season that I finally wood this stick and get a better idea. I'm betting that it is still tight. Sure hope so.

[CharlieCobra]

Ok, I have a real question about these sticks. How would one go about dis assembly without tearing up the wood? How do ya get the glue to soften where you can pull the various panels apart?

[Chris Coose]

I'd soften it with a high speed thin band saw blade.
You'll kill 2 birds with one stone.

[paladin]

If you wanna see some very solid weldwood plastic resin glue joints, look at Jim Browns personal trimaran, Searunner.....I assembled the frames, centerboard, centerboard case, rudder and other things in 1969 with weldwood plastic resin glue. It's still together...and for sale.

[TimH]

I would say varnish and observe but varnishing is a lot of work.

MrLeft8s point is a good one though.

Perhaps you could use a moisture meter to get the wood where it should be then epoxy and varnish. Then just not worry about it anymore.