View Full Version : Wooden Runabout Restoration Book
02-11-2003, 12:51 PM
A book that I (and the rest of the Antique and Classic boating community) have been waiting for is out! It's Don Danenberg's book on wooden runabout restoration (I told Don almost 2 years ago if he wrote a book I would be first in line to buy it). This book is a real how-to guide on restoring and maintaining antique and classic runabouts. You can get a personalized and numbered autograph copy of the book from Don by sending him a check for $35.00 to
Manistee, MI 49660
I'm just waiting for my copy to arrive!
note: this post in no way involves any self promotion.
02-11-2003, 10:36 PM
I ordered mine a LONG time ago... (knowing it would not be out until this month).
It will finally ship this Friday - I'm very interested to see it.
02-13-2003, 11:46 AM
And now we all know what Don Danenberg looks like.
Andreas Jordahl Rhude
02-14-2003, 05:31 PM
Got mine from Amazon.com for less than $21.00 inlcuding shipping!
02-17-2003, 05:26 PM
I guess that means the numbered, autographed first-edition pedigree is worth fifteen bucks.
Sounds fair to me.
Don't be fooled...by the time you pay shipping,handling,and tax, its not that different. CM
As Andreas pointed out, the price is $21 from Amazon, and if you order another book (get your order up to $25) they pay the freight. There's no handling or tax.
The "numbered" part of the deal is worthless, unless the numbered edition is different, and printed in limited quantity. There aren't many limited edition numbered paperback books.
The author's signature could be worth the extra money in just a few years.
02-18-2003, 08:29 PM
Got mine in the mail today (Amazon.com).
It was $21 delivered because I ordered two other boat building books with it. smile.gif
I haven't read it yet, but on first glance - I saw a few things I liked;
First - Chapter 1 gets into it right off - talks about runabout construction.
Many of the other books go like this:
Chpt 1 - why do it
chpt 2 - what to look for
chpt 3 - what tools
chpt 4 - what wood....
These are all important I suppose, but they sometimes have the feel of 'Filler' to me...
Second - Lots of color pictures!
The book looks like it is backed by lots of experience..
The only thing I saw that looked *off* was troweling on 3M5200 between layers of wood to glue them together.. I'll have to read more on that..
First impression is good so far.
02-23-2003, 07:56 PM
If you'd like to see the evidence of such construction, please see the upper half of page 110 in the most recent issue, #171, of WoodenBoat magazine. DonD
02-23-2003, 08:24 PM
Hoping to see a good juicy debate on whether old hulls should be expected to swell!
02-23-2003, 09:27 PM
OK I'll start. If by old hulls you mean old wood, yes it should be expected to swell as it "soaks up". Why--because all the years of swelling have allowed the wood to compress when wet, take a "compressive set" and not allow full expansion back when drying out. I don't think too many will disagree with that. As far as "should" these old boats be expected to swell and leak as that is the way they were designed and built--NO! They were designed to be leak free from the factory and did not require swelling because 1. each board fit exactly against the next with no caulking. 2. a canvas liner was between the inner and outer layers.
02-23-2003, 10:00 PM
I must say I'm thoroughly enjoying your book so far! I've read up to Chpt 6. I'm quite amazed at how close the modern designs (Hankinson, Glen-L) are to the originals. Just the construction methods are different for the most part.
The one thing that is a question in my mind is related to my current project, which is a cold molded runabout (Hankinson design)is: I'm hoping the double-diagonal planking technique with Mahogany outer layer will be ok using epoxy. (or does your 3M5300 Method apply?).
Secondly, with all the CPES talk lately, I'm going to get the 2 gallon kit and use it instead of epoxy to coat wood before varnishing. (Thanks Chpt.5 and the forum) Unfortunatly - I have already coated my frames with thin epoxy (MAS) but I'm hoping they won't be effected by the expansion/contraction.
Thanks for writing the book!
BTW: By *off* in my previous post, I meant *never seen it before - don't understand* I will after I get to that chapter. Saw WB#171, If I could get the machine gun turret... :D
02-24-2003, 07:48 PM
"The one thing that is a question in my mind is related to my current project, which is a cold molded runabout (Hankinson design)is: I'm hoping the double-diagonal planking technique with Mahogany outer layer will be ok using epoxy. (or does your 3M5300 Method apply?)."
"Secondly, with all the CPES talk lately, I'm going to get the 2 gallon kit and use it instead of epoxy to coat wood before varnishing. (Thanks Chpt.5 and the forum) Unfortunatly - I have already coated my frames with thin epoxy (MAS) but I'm hoping they won't be effected by the expansion/contraction."
Just keep in mind that if you are using plywood for inner ply laminations, those glue-lines must be equal to or better than, the epoxy glue joint, that is, at least BS-1088 plywood.
As to the CPES, yes, by all means at least try it.
It is far superior to any of the hard epoxy glues and is ABSOLUTELY NOT a form of petrochemical-based epoxy glue that is thinned. Anybody who claims this is either simply uninformed, reluctant to admit they've made a mistake in the past, or they sell the stuff. DonD
02-24-2003, 08:01 PM
Rustnrot obviously has a handle on reality, well done!
It took me three pages of a diatribe called 'Common Wisdom or Common Sense' to try to explain this.
Its no wonder his profile shows he is an engineer.
Wooden boats were never meant to leak or have to 'swell up'. This only happens after the components have long outlived their expected life spans and compressive-set has damaged the wood.
02-25-2003, 08:15 AM
I ordered the book, but am wondering if there are any sealers that are flexible and compressive enough to seal a leak without enlarging the opening.
02-25-2003, 11:08 AM
Originally posted by Rocky:
I ordered the book, but am wondering if there are any sealers that are flexible and compressive enough to seal a leak without enlarging the opening.You may be asking a question about properties of commercially available products, or properties of matter [in which case the answer would be one involving physics, rather than marketing] or a question about how to fix something in particular on your particular boat.
Could you be more specific?
For instance, what kind of leak, involving what pieces of what, in what location, with what existing surface contamination or possibility of surface preparation [or not]?
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