Folkboat Nina haulout

[BarnacleGrim]

It's time to start thinking about the haulout. I want to bring her to my house so I don't have to drive 45 minutes every time I'm going to work on her.


I have hired a wheel loader to come and level off part of my yard next week
I need to buy/build a suitable cradle
I need to hire the nearest crane and a local truck
I need to sail her up the river to the crane
I have to build a bowshed

I could use an extra hand going up the river. Anything else I should be thinking of?

[donald branscom]

Good plan! Get away from those expensive boat yards!
I know it costs but if you could just pour a simple small concrete pad it would be helpful but not absolutely necessary.
You will need a steel box to lock up your tools.
Drive steel stakes in the ground and use CABLE to secure it.
Too easy to cut chain.
You might be able to buy some used boat stands.
Have you planned how you will get the boat out of the water.
You can hire a truck with a crane.

Put a chain link fence or something around the boat to keep people out.

Won't it be nice not to drive 45 minutes hoping you did not forget a tool or supplies?

[mmd]

No insult intended, Donald, but, WOW!!

The security measures (steel tool box, cable tie-downs, chain link fencing) that you are proposing for a boat in your own back yard are unimaginable in my little part of the world. Do you really need such precautions in Guerneville, California? 'Round here you'd put your tools in a wooden box with a padlock, post a "Please Keep Off" sign on the boat, and lay your access ladder down beside the boat when you aren't aboard.

Actually, in my back yard I'd not even bother with the padlock and sign.

WOW...

[Eric D]

Ventillation in the bow shed is something to think of while building it. You will need/want a lot of it, both passive and power. I realize you will get snow (Sweden) so think of that as well. Power the shed if possible.

Otherwise it looks like you have it.

Oh, put down some very heavy plastic UNDER the gravel will often keep a lot of moisture out of the shed, some will say if you spill water it will not drain then. Others will argue this point so I guess check locally what they do.

[BarnacleGrim]

I live in the countryside, and the boat will be sheltered from prying eyes. It won't be seen from the road, and I'll keep the tools in the garage a few metres away. I was thinking of the Stimson bowshed, seems like a solid structure.

We hardly get any snow here on the west coast. I've been told that concrete is bad for wooden boats, all woodies are stored on gravel in the big commercial yard. But I will want to put down an old tarp or something anyway, so I can easily clean up the antifouling chips and not poison the ground.

[RFNK]

BG
Are you planning to drop the ballast? If so, you might want to consider a more substantial cradle to support the hull fore and aft or trestles that will allow slings to be placed under the hull so that the boat can be lifted off the ballast. You only need to lift the boat a little off the ballast - just enough to be able to get a stilson wrench into the gap between the keel and ballast. Also, Folkboats that are lifted regularly have lifting rings installed on two keel bolts - you might want to look into this as I think this is done quite a bit in Europe - don't do it if you're worried about the state of your keel bolts though!

I brought our Folkboat home and had it in the front yard for 3 years. I had it on a trailer that had cradling arms. I usually left the tools in the boat - never had anything stolen. Rick

[BarnacleGrim]

That's the question - do I need to drop the ballast? I feel a bit insecure rigging a cradle that will actually support the weight of the boat. Even without the ballast it's still a tonne. Kerry, if you're reading this, how did you do yours?

I just got back from my first day of ship's master school. Turns out I have to spend the whole next summer at sea, so I won't launch it even if it would be ready.

I'm not quite sure about the keel bolts, or how I could find out. I'll look it up in my books. What worries me more is that the garboards are a bit soft. I don't know, but I assume I should drop the ballast for that as well?

[HarryH]

I was thinking of the Stimson bowshed, seems like a solid structure.

Thumbs up on the Stimson bowshed; mine has worked out well. Inexpensive, lightweight and STRONG if built as suggested. I have been a carpenter/builder most of my adult life, but I sprung $18 for the plans anyway, which pointed out some excellent building tips, i.e., a handy little table indicating which strapping lengths will provide desired span, a building jig sketch, fastening and foundation ideas, etc. It proved to be a pretty simple and quick build for such a useful and lasting structure.

I covered it with poly of the type used by amateur greenhouse builders: UV resistant, coated with a film to discourage condensation, etc. I put a $10 zip-up window used by the shrink wrap crowd in each gable end, and a simple plywood door. It has served 7 years now and going strong. Nor'easters and snow have not been a problem. Did wish I had a wood floor though, as I am building a boat in it.....had to improvise...

Just my $.02...

Good Luck

[RFNK]

How you drop the ballast depends on what you have the boat sitting on. This is how I'll drop the ballast on the Twister (28' but weighs twice as much as the Folkboat). I'll jack the boat up about 15cm with jacks under the ballast, propping the hull as I go. Then I'll put enough props and cradles under the hull to support it without distorting it when the ballast is lowered. Then I'll undo the keel bolt nuts inside and lower the ballast again, so there will be a gap between the keel and ballast of 15cm. Then I'll use a stilson wrench to remove the bolts by winding them out. If they won't move, I'll cut them and replace them later. Then I'll take the ballast out sideways.

If you go back through Kerry's thread you'll find a section on how he did it on his trailer. This seemed a very good method.

The garboards are good planks to remove as they'll let you have a good look at the ends of the stem, keel etc. Leakage around the keel bolts is a common problem in old boats and I think quite a few boats are damaged by people trying to solve this problem by overtightening the keel bolts. I think it's wise to check the bolts - if you lower the ballast enough to open up a gap and the timber looks okay and the boilts look okay - I'd probably not proceed to remove them but if they look suspect or if they're stainless steel. I'd proceed to remove them. the problem with stainless is that it's subject to crevice corrosion which is not always obvious from the look of the bolt. Rick

[Larks]

I wondered about how I'd drop the ballast on the H28 if I had to and thought it'd be very handy to have a small pit under the keel covered with heavy timbers - ie railway sleepers or something, for the boat to sit on until I was ready to drop it. Then it'd be a simple matter of propping the hull suitably and lowering the keel on jacks and leaving it there in the pit, possibly with the heavy timbers back in place over it, to raise again when ready which should mean that it still lines up nicely.

Is that a doable solution where you are planning on sitting her before you build the shed? You'd probably also need some solid timbers or concrete in the base of the pit so that the jacks don't sink into the dirt.

[RFNK]

I thought about doing that too Greg but it then means you have to get the ballast out of the pit from under the boat to work on it. I think I'll just jack it all up a little so that I can get the bolts out and then take the ballast out sideways. Rick

[BarnacleGrim]

I'm off to look at a used cradle, four supports should be enough while driving it carefully on a truck bed?

Will two extra free-standing side supports and a bow support be enough when lifting the boat off the keel? I'd rather get all the equipment in ready made rather than adding more and more projects to my already frightening list.

[RFNK]

Will two extra free-standing side supports and a bow support be enough when lifting the boat off the keel? I'd rather get all the equipment in ready made rather than adding more and more projects to my already frightening list.


I don't have the expertise to answer this question. But, when I do this with the Twister, I'll be putting in a whole lot of props with strips of plywood or something strung between the props to spread the load. The idea would be to ensure that no single part of the hull is bearing too much weight. Just guessing, I'd say that the props you plan to use with your cradle will be enough but I'd guess that you'll need to string other boards/padding/slings or something between them to ensure that the load is spread and I'd also suggest getting support under the sternpost. The ballast on a Folkboat weighs about 1 tonne so your props etc. need to be able to support the remaining 1 tonne of boat as well as the 1 tonne of ballast if it doesn't lower easily once the keel bolt nuts are undone. Rick

[kazeai1969]

BG, I'd be interested in hearing the logic behind concrete floors being bad for wooden boats as I have been thinking about building a garage with a concrete floor for my Folkboat...thanks

[BarnacleGrim]

They say the boats dry out on concrete. But then again that might be a good thing, for rot prevention. Anyway, I don't think it will be a problem in a garage, sheltered from the sun.

[floatingkiwi]

I made a trailer for mine,( which I used to get her out of the water), which I jacked up with the boat on, supported the hull around the waterline and then lowered the trailer in my own time and when the ballast dropped a few inches and stayed upright as I had hoped, I lowered the trailer fully and wheeled the ballast out from beneath. Two things, I made certain I supported it with enough height to start and made cradle supports at one end wider than the wheel base of the trailer. I did this on my own and with relative ease. Full documentation can be seen on" a folkboat found me", and at http://fljugen.shutterfly.com/

[BarnacleGrim]

Thanks, I'll look into that when I have my broadband back.

Refastening, should I mark all the leaky spots with chalk before haulout and only replace the rivets there, or should I replace every single one? Just below the waterline, or even topsides?

[RFNK]

Replacing all the fastenings is a really big job. You need to find out why the fastenings are leaking - if that's what's happening. Is there worm attack around them? Have the fasteners themselves broken down? Are the frames damaged from rot or stress - if so, the fasteners around the damage can become loose and leak. It's likely that your copper nails and roves are okay and that there's some reason other than fastener deterioration causing the leaks. I'd mark the leaks and then do some detective work once you've hauled out. If your chainplate fasteners are stainless steel, I'd definitely remove them as it's highly likely that they'll have crevice corrosion. Rick

[BarnacleGrim]

The leaking started when I put the rig on it. It must be the tension from the shrouds that is opening up the seams a bit. A wooden boat owner in Strömstad told me loose rivets was likely the problem.

In places the previous owner had used cotton yarn and Ettan, a mixture of beeswax and pine tar, but I'd rather fix the underlying problem.

[BarnacleGrim]

I took these pictures on Sunday:

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_2975.jpg
Lobstah fishing on Björkö Fjord!

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_2972.jpg
Tea and sandwiches. I'm going from the upper rim of the cup, around the island under the cup and into Gothenburg harbour, to bring the boat up the river. I couldn't go the short way, into the estuary, because of a non-opening railway bridge.

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_2981.jpg
Öckerö skyline

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_2990.jpg
Rivö fjord, with the Älvsborg fortess and the port of Gothenburg. Notice to other Folkboat restorers: A long shaft outboard and a Spartan mount is not deep enough, it took me forever to get through the chop. I could have raised the sails, but then I'd have had to go on deck, no halyards in the cockpit.

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_2998.jpg
Going under the Älvsborg bridge

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3005.jpg
Gothenburg harbour and shipyard, with grounded Full City in the dock.

At this point I was only halfway, and it had gotten so late that I had to moor in the Gothenburg guest harbour.

[BarnacleGrim]

Sorry about the triple post, but I thought I'd write up what happened today in a post of its own.

Unfortunately I didn't bring my camera for the last leg of the trip up the river, there were a few interesting wooden boats at the hopes and dreams quay waiting for someone to either take care of them or put the torch to them.

All went well until about half way up the river, when the outboard suddenly and without warning died. I was drifting towards shallow water fast and got my anchor out. The boat hit mud, but that's not so bad as long as there is flat water. But of course a big ship had to come by making wakes bashing me around. I called the Vessel Traffic Service in Gothenburg and asked them to have the big ships slow down going past my position while I work on the problem. They wanted me to call MRCC as well, so I called 112, but at first the lady didn't want to put me through as no life was in immediate danger (however engine failure in a narrow shipping fairway is cause for a pan pan in my opinion). I got through, and both MRCC and VTS were very helpful and understanding. After some tinkering I got the engine started, got off the mud bank and continued up the river. I called 112 again, akin to an "urgency ended" call on the radio, but she snapped at me and said that "they didn't need to know that". I don't really blame her, though, having to answer kid's prank calls all the time. But VTS was glad to hear I was back up and running and they wished me a pleasant trip.

I made it home safely with no damage to my boat. But one of the lessons learned was of course that nowadays cellphones are designed as toys for teenagers and not emergency communication devices. Better get a proper VHF, even for inshore use. You reach the right people, no phone numbers to remember or switchboards to negotiate, you have dual watch and even if you don't talk to MRCC they listen and if things actually turn hairy they already know what's going on.

By the way, what's the custom for bothering MRCC? Postcard? Box of chocolates?

[chainyank]

By the way, what's the custom for bothering MRCC? Postcard? Box of chocolates?

If it's the SSRS, you mean, I'd say a donation and a new-spanking membership!

So did you make the drive home okay?

PS, I know how you feel we needed a tow to get us to the crane, a week before was smooth sailing, on moving day, engine said no-can-do. UGH!

[chainyank]

oh one other thing, maybe the rivets just need tightening. If they are in good shape, and not crumbling, maybe that is all they need. Maybe.

[BarnacleGrim]

No, this was the MRCC. But an SSRS membership would perhaps be a good investment in case you do need a tow.

I suspect the problem may be foreign material in the fuel, either water or debris. I'm going to take apart the fuel filter when that time comes. I didn't want to risk spilling any fuel anywhere, even with an outboard.

[Dr.Spoke]

Hi Grim,
I've moved a few boats here in Stockholm, without having a cradle. The lorry was equipped with a trough for the keel and hydraulic jacks for support of the boat - along with a PalFinger crane. I wouldn't want to travel a long way with it, but for relatively short hops it's ideal.
I don't know of any companies near you, but ring some haulage firms and see if anybody regularly moves boats - they'll have one of these trucks. I paid between 1000:- and 2000:- depending on time and distance ( if I remember correctly).
If you can move it this way, then you can just get some Tyresö stöttar second-hand. This allows you a great deal if flexibility when setting your boat up on the hard. ( get 6 or 8 and you can easily support the boat as you're jacking it before dropping the keel).
Good luck, and don't forget... Lots of pics when you get going on the work!

[KAIROS]

....put down some very heavy plastic UNDER the gravel will often keep a lot of moisture out of the shed, some will say if you spill water it will not drain then. Others will argue this point ....

Assuming you will have her out of the water for months, drying out might be a concern (I don't know what the climate is in your yard). The work you do on the boat will likely compensate for any problems caused by the structure drying out, but there's no use letting her dry needlessly.

What I'm suggesting is.....do everything you can to encourage the work shed to be damp and cool. Let moisture in from the ground and keep humidity high (unless a particular task, such as painting, requires lower humidity). Of course, you want to avoid condensation.

[BarnacleGrim]

I'm having plastic put in under the gravel, as per the Stimson bowshed plans. I figure it's a lot easier putting water in the shed than getting rid of it. I'll try to take pictures as the work proceeds.

As for the lorry, I do have a few contacts, but none with jacks to support a sailboat (yet). I'm still looking for a nice cradle, if I can't find one I guess I'll have to buy a new Tyresö. But I would absolutely prefer using free standing supports. That way I can add and adjust supports as I please without anything getting in the way. One of my concerns is how to drop the keel or lift the boat off of it.

[Dr.Spoke]

Hi Grim,
Blocket is your friend....
http://www.blocket.se/goteborg/Batvagga_24032363.htm?ca=15&w=2
http://www.blocket.se/alvsborg/Batvagn_for_segelbat_2_4_ton__25_32_fot_23375293.h tm?ca=15&w=2
And there are loads more!
The trailer might be strong enough to fix slings to the supports,loosen keel bolts, tighten slings - lift hull off keel, support the hull on Tyresö stöttar, wheel out the trailer with keel... Just an idea! Might want to do that after you're happy with the fastenings and other jobs on the hull;)

[Dr.Spoke]

Or if you're definately setting up a place at home, drive in four piles to accept the slings wider than the trailer - lift, remove trailer, lower and support.
I had the luxury of a workshop with a suspended scafolding gantry at deck height - just attatched ratchet straps to the gantry and lifted the boat - when I worked on my Folkboat... Don't have the workshop anymore, changed jobs... Now I work in a tent.... F***ing cold in the winter!

[StevenBauer]

Glad it all worked out on your trip. What is the MRCC?





Steven

[BarnacleGrim]

I can't use a trailer, the boat has to be lifted because of the ditch:

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3011.jpg

The area is sloping towards the ditch, for drainage. Once I have the plastic put down and the gravel arrives I'll make it level.

This was the most convenient spot, close to the garage, but not obstructing the driveway.


Glad it all worked out on your trip. What is the MRCC?
Maritime Rescue Coordination Centre

[Dr.Spoke]

Yeah, the ditch screws up that idea:D
Still one of the cradles second-hand should free up a good bit fo money for the boathouse, and subsequent work on the boat.

[bludue]

You can buy a cradle from the folkboat center in denmark:

http://folkboat.wedoithost.eu/shop/4580-storage-cradle-p-470.html

a bit expensive by time you factor in VAT and shipping thought....

There is also a plan for making one out of wood on the berlin folkboat association website:
http://www.folkeboot-berlin.de/folke-tipps-gesamt.htm

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2447/4034148325_77a5cc8e95_o.jpg
not many details thought....

[BarnacleGrim]

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3022.jpg

The gravel guy was here. He's coming back tomorrow with a second load. He said that his son knew a guy with boat moving equipment on his lorry, perhaps I can get away without the cradle after all.

[Eric D]

Culvert??

why dont' you just put one in the ditch and then cover it with gravel and drive a trailer on that site?

don't know the rules/laws, but that seems the simplest route no?

[BarnacleGrim]

Haulout has been scheduled on Thursday afternoon. I found a truck with hydraulic jacks, so no cradle necessary. Off shopping for boat stands tomorrow.

I also need a hand removing the mast. I haven't even begun to think about the engine which needs to be taken out for a rebuild. Perhaps good to do with the mast crane as well?

Culvert??

why dont' you just put one in the ditch and then cover it with gravel and drive a trailer on that site?

don't know the rules/laws, but that seems the simplest route no?
You can see a culvert in the picture, but that one is going elsewhere. It wouldn't be possible to back a trailer up there anyway, because of the slope and the house on the other side of the driveway. There is no real water flow, but the ditch is necessary for drainage.

[RFNK]

Good luck BG! Hope it all goes well. Seems like a good idea to lift the engine out if you'll have a crane there anyway. Rick

[Larks]

BG, if you do plan on getting the crane to lift your engine out while it's there allow yourself plenty of time before hand to disconnect the exhaust, fuel lines, water intake, throttle cable and kill switch and undo the engine mounts. Cranes be bloody expensive sitting around waiting for you.

If the timing is awkward, compare the price to buying a block and tackle (pretty cheap these days) and setting up a bit of a frame to lift it out later yourself. That's what I did for remocing the H28's engine and it meant that I could take it nice and slowly and I have it there for when I want to put it (or a new one) back in again.

[floatingkiwi]

http://im1.shutterfly.com/proctaserv/47b9dd00b3127ccec6ff078d464e00000057100AZtGbhu3cs2 QPbz4a

http://im1.shutterfly.com/proctaserv/47b9dd00b3127ccec6fef92be7eb00000057100AZtGbhu3cs2 QPbz4a

http://im1.shutterfly.com/proctaserv/47b9dd00b3127ccec6ff72c706a600000057100AZtGbhu3cs2 QPbz4a

http://im1.shutterfly.com/proctaserv/47b9dd00b3127ccec6ff9d09c7b700000057100AZtGbhu3cs2 QPbz4a

http://im1.shutterfly.com/proctaserv/47b9dc00b3127ccec63fb7554aa400000057100AZtGbhu3cs2 QPbz4a

http://im1.shutterfly.com/proctaserv/47b9db26b3127ccec75bc64e7c3800000057100AZtGbhu3cs2 QPbz4a

[Dr.Spoke]

How far is the truck moving you? If he's already in for a days work, and the engine is ready to lift, it would make sense to take advantage... But if he's working on the basis of " I can fit this in between paying jobs and take 1500 SEK for beer money" then it's a bit tough ask him to hang about and do a delicate ( relative to boat lift) engine lift.
Does your club have a mast-crane? If so ring the hamnkapten, he should be able to help with finding a willing body to help you lift the mast. If not, and the truck can get close enough ( assuming it's a PalFinger arm on the truck), then if you're ready with the rig it'll only take half-an-hour to get the mast off the boat and on to the hard, and back on the truck before moving off.
Take an extra body to man the camera... We want pics!

[BarnacleGrim]

The harbourmaster agreed to help me with the mast before hauling out the boat. I bought 4 Tyresöstöttor, the smallest ones should fit right at the turn of the bilge. I haven't been able to prepare the engine for lifting out, so I'll have to do the block and tackle method in my own time. I'm guessing the Stimson bowshed should be able to take the 75 kg, though I could disassemble it in place and lower it in manageable chunks. Head, block and transmission, for instance.

I didn't think of getting a person to man the camera, though. I'll do my best, they probably don't want me interfering in the marina, but when I get home I'll be busy with supports. It's not going to be windy tomorrow.

[Larks]

BG, when I lifted out mine I was alone, so although it was a bit awkward I didn't have any problems doing it slowly and steadily. I made up a frame to hang the block and tackle from, that simply sat over the hatchway (rather than use the shed frames) and first raised the engine high enough to sit on some hardwood planks that I slid in uner it accross the cockpit. I had to set up a rope block to pull it forward as it came up then let it loose to swing back into the cockpit through the companionway.

I then repositioned the frame so that it was outboard of the cockpit and was able to slide the engine over to the edge carefully on the planks by taking the weight slightly before lifting it off and, using the same rope blocks to pull it clear of the hull sides, lower it onto a frame on wheels on the ground.

I didn't take any photos when removing the engine but here's the block that it sits on, the castors are really handy on a concrete floor but not much use for your gravel floor unless you have some panels that you could move around to roll it to where you want it.:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Larks_01/0003-Copy.jpg

[BarnacleGrim]

The haulout went without a hitch!

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3212.jpg

Lifting the boat out of Göta Älv

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3220.jpg

Backing in

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3229.jpg

Hooking up the spreaders

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3236.jpg

Going over the ditch

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3251.jpg

Forgot a fender there, not quite Bristol fashion!

[Candyfloss]

Excellent rig, excellent work. Now there is a trucker who knows what he is doing.

[RFNK]

Really a lovely boat BG! Hope you keep that colour scheme! Rick

[Dr.Spoke]

Must feel great to "have her home", so much easier to work on for an hour or so a day without stressing the family out.
The first time I used the haulage company here in stockholm, to lift a 30ft Snipa, the guy arrived looked at the boat, walked around on deck, and placed the slings in exactly the right place first time! I asked him if he was a boat owner - "no but I've lifted a lot of things, boats are easier because in the water you can find the CofG easily!"
That time it was only a lift to another trailer for transport, but still thought the 1000 SEK ( approx 150 USD) was really cheap. I think the most he's taken from me was 1500 SEK for a lift, transport 10 miles, and drop with the time taken to build a cradle around the boat in situ - about 2hrs in all.
Nice boat btw. Although I love my little Ljungströmmare, I have fond memories of my Folkboat. Such a stable and forgiving boat, with a pleasant motion in even the worst seas. And easy to work on!

[P.L.Lenihan]

Lovely! Chain those stands together and keep an eye out for settling and heaving as you change seasons.


Cheers!


Peter

[BarnacleGrim]

Thanks for reminding me. I have a chain for the fore supports, need to buy a longer one for the after.

Right now I'm planning the bowshed. I'll have a look at your thread, like you I may want to add a couple of feet of height, so I don't have to crawl on deck.

[P.L.Lenihan]

Good thing to consider and plan for as it will make a world of a difference toward your enjoyment of working "inside" without feeling too cramped.When you do your bowshed, you may also wish to consider lining the inside of the bows also with poly to creat something of a quasi dead-air space between the outter and the inner starpping of the bows. Has some insulating value and eliminates condensation on the inside layer of the poly.

Lookng forward to seeing a neat bowshed thread:)


Cheers!


Peter

[cookie]

Seeing the pristine environment and nice work spaces you guys have make me a tad jealous.... Bloody éll, I'm stuck at a cramped boatyard with about 10cm of space at all sides and a sheat of plastic to keep it all dry.

Best of luck on your project, Barnacle. BTW, that Scandinavian looking fella on the boat/truck, is that you?

[BarnacleGrim]

Dank u wel! Ja, dat is mij op de boot op de truck! :rolleyes:

[cookie]

Dank u wel! Ja, dat is mij op de boot op de truck! :rolleyes:

Hehehe, your dutch is quite good.

[BarnacleGrim]

YouTube is mijn leraar!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofeThQBp6mA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LOpK09gBwQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTIK29e4HpI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=manapbdPFdE

:D

Waar in Nederland woon je?

[cookie]

Wow, that was some great quality you tube cr@p :eek: :)

I am a bit careful when it comes to disclosing personal information on the internet. I don't want the KGB to find me, but I think it is OK to say that I live about a one hour drive north of your friends.

[BarnacleGrim]

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/gcopc/IMG_3258.jpg

Bowshed materials being delivered!

It's going to be nice to get rid of all that construction equipment. I now have a nice new roof, but it's not as nice as the copper one in the metalwork thread...

Ish, if you're looking at this, this rooftop antenna configuration does not get very good DTV reception. ;)