Is this ever proper-closed copper ring lug terminal connector

[bluedog225]

I watched a youtube video of a mechanic using a propane torch to melt solder into a closed end copper ring lug connector. He then inserted a battery wire.

Is this every correct form? I understand a good crimp doesn't need, and usually shouldn't be, soldered except perhaps on the tip that pokes through. I also believe a solder connection always needs a good mechanical connection before soldering.

This is using solder like glue but it has a strange appeal...especially if the wire is supported farther down.

[nedL]

A proper solder termination does not to be crimped first. You need to apply heat long enough to ensure all the strands are tinned so you don't have a 'cold' joint.

[pcford]

There is some controversy about solder in a marine environment. I prefer to solder. Never had a problem with soldered connections; I have with crimped. ALWAYS solder bilge pump connections.

[BBSebens]

In an environment that is more corrosive than it might otherwise be, It would seem that a soldered connection would be less succeptible to corrosion, beings that its "sealed". a simply crimped connection leaves strands open to air.

I work on raspberry and blueberry harvesters, which see some pretty tough duty in dusty fields and winter storage outside. We make out battery cables with closed loop copper rings, where there is not actual hole for the wire to poke out the other side. just a pocket to cram them into. then they are heavily crimped, and everything gets covered with heavy duty shrink tube. seems to work out pretty well for us.

in a nutshell: I don't think the solder can hurt.

to quote: this is my opinion and only my opinion, and subject to the fact that I may be full of S**t, or rum, or beer.

[htom]

In my opinion, he's doing it wrong. Heat the ring, fill the pot with solder melted by contact with the hot ring (never* heat the solder), heat and tin the wire, insert the hot wire into the liquid solder, heat the joint.

*never. Well, there are repair cases and reflowing to smooth.

[Iceboy]

He is definitely doing it wrong. When you solder you are creating another alloy of tin/copper/lead. You do not use solder as a glue. The proper method is to heat the items being soldered and then quickly apply the solder using just enough to do the job. Do not overheat the connections. Using the proper size heat source, you should not be on the joint for more than 3 seconds. If there is vibration involved you do not want the solder wicking up the wire as it will make it brittle. A solder joint should NOT be viewed as a mechanical connection. It does not have the strength. The most important part of making a good solder connection is to have both components as clean and oil free as possible. Remove any tarnish on the connector and make sure you are using fresh wire (bright and shiney). Use acid free flux as this will prevent the corrosion of the components while soldering and remove as much of the flux as possible after soldering as it will trap dirt and therefore moisture. High reliability soldering is an art. The U.S. Navy uses an entire month to teach sailors this art. You are only tested on about four or five connections in that month and they are microscopically tested. Doubt me if you will. I am 3M and was previously NASA certified in high reliability soldering but I am sure there will be some naysayers. Jim...

[paladin]

Iceboy is on target....never rely on solder as a "glue"....crimp the connection and then solder the terminal where the wire protrudes into the terminal end...do not use a propane torch...it will cause oxidation of the joint.

[nedL]

Agree. my comments weren't meant to be about the soldering technique used, only about 'is soldering accepable'. :)

[P.I. Stazzer-Newt]

All of this could be moot - what current? and in what environment?

The heaviest current connections I've worked on were 5,000 amp jobs for use in the brutally corrosive environment of a plating/anodising shop - that was done with torch into a pot and lug style connector.

[Bill R]

I work a lot with all size connectors 24ga to 0000 in some pretty harsh environments. I much prefer solder in any environment that may be corrosive (such as salt air, moisture or both) In a controlled environment, I will just crimp. This is mostly due to time- soldering a couple hundred 22ga control connections at a time during a studio (climate controlled) build will generally not be an efficient use of time.

Iceboy described the proper method of soldering a connector.