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cbreaux
08-06-2009, 05:52 PM
Howdy all!
I have purchased plans to build the William Atkin designed rowing and ailing punt Little Peter. Because I am separated from the designer by some 60 years, I thought it prudent to seek some advice from folks on this forum with experience building boats of this type.

First bit of advice relates to the choice of wood. The Plans and the MoToR BoatinG article prescribe cedar for the side and bottom planks. From scouring through the forum, I assume this would mean Atlantic White Cedar (AWC). Living on the Texas Gulf Coast, I assume as close as I am going to get would be Western Red Cedar (WRC). So I ask if that will suffice. Had I been afflicted with this malady 20 plus years ago, my grand father who used to build Lafayette skiffs might have recommended cypress, but the stories I hear of that particular wood’s shrinkage and expansion due to water leaves me a bit skittish.

The second bit of advice I need relates to the building method of the bottom planks which are to be no wider than 4 ½ inches and no less that 4 inches wide laid athwartship. The plans read as follows:

“Fit the planks very snug; but do not jamb them together with clamps or wedges… It is good practice to cut a slight hollow about 3/8 inch wide along these edges (bottom edges of chine pieces, bow and stern). Run several strands of cotton wicking in this hollow and as the cross planks are laid soak the cotton with thick paint, then screw the planks fast.”
My question is, would one still build in this manner?
The third and final bit of advice (for now) would be on the subject of flat head bronze screws, in particular the flat head subject. Is the choice of flat head versus say frearson head one of tradition and/or cosmetics or of some mechanical leaning.

I thank you in advance for your time and consideration of these matters. If it would be best for me to go back and read a particular thread I might have missed on any of these subjects,, please point that out.

Sincerely,
Breaux

Tom Hoffman
08-06-2009, 06:26 PM
If you want to be completely authentic. Follow the guidelines of the original designer. However today there are much better products available.

My preference would be to build with WRC and use a good water proof glue, between the board edges. One that I have used to good effect with WRC and Glass and Epoxy coating on the exterior is Titebond III. I think Boyles Boats in St. Jo. Mo. has built a boat in this method that was wanted to be like a pond boat in a famous painting by Monet. http://boylesboats.com/blog/

He might have some good insight.

Tom...

mgb
08-06-2009, 06:46 PM
What does the designer mean by "flathead" ? Chances are it refers to the shape of the head and not the shape of the slot.

cbreaux
08-07-2009, 08:28 AM
i might have typed that in a confusing manner. Flat head as in flat head screwdriver.

SScoville
08-07-2009, 08:45 AM
Do the plans specify "flat head screws?"

These sites will probably answer your question:

Selecting driver fastener heads (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=268&title=Selecting+Driver+Fastener+Heads) - this regards the difference in slotted, phillips, frierson, etc.

And from another site re head shapes:
"Most wood screws usually have one of three head shapes. Round head screws have a rounded top but a flat underside, and are typically used for affixing thin objects to wood. Flat head screws fit into tapered recesses (such as the holes in hinges) and will be flush with the surface when properly applied. Finally, oval head screws are a bit of a combination of the previous two, in that they have a tapered bottom (similar to the flat head screws), but also a slightly rounded top."

Thorne
08-07-2009, 09:02 AM
If any of the screws will be visible, I'd go for slotted SB wood screws -- you are building a 'period piece' and might as well go for it! SB hardware and screws don't add too much to the cost but really help detail the boat.

As for the bottom planks, again I'd build to the plan. The alternative would be to not hollow the edges and use a flexible sealant (not adhesive) between them -- 4200 or even something like Boatlife. Eric H. is active on this Forum and builds boats with solid wood, hopefully he'll chime in here.
Pics of an Atkin "Vintage" he built at the Seattle CWB 2008 show -
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1895660

One of our local Forumites built this lovely Atkin skiff a few years ago -
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3132/2711082108_7a0731eced.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2127/2002476110_872034bf98_o.jpg

http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82977
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3732749...7606422267083/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/37327498@N00/sets/72157606422267083/)

johngsandusky
08-07-2009, 10:12 AM
If the boat will live in the water, cross planked bottoms require no glue, compound, or caulk. I built a pine flatiron skiff for lake use a few years ago with this method. It swelled tight as it should. I spaced the bottom planks with the back of a saw blade.

cbreaux
08-07-2009, 10:06 PM
thanks for the advise. I'll go with the slotted BZ screws and the WRC.

The plans call for wicking between the chines, bow and stern and the bottom planks, not between the planks. This boat will more than likely be kept on the dock, out of the water. based on this, should i hollow the sides of the bottom planks in a similar manner or just butt the planks up against themselves?

another thing, any suggestions for a "thick paint" as noted in the planking instructions?

thanks again for all the advise.

Breaux

jalmberg
08-13-2009, 06:18 PM
I'm finding this thread interesting, because I'm setting up to build an Atkins 'Cabin Boy' as a winter project. Been sailing some great plastic boats for the last 20 years, but a summer crewing on a 100 year old, gaff-rigged oyster boat has made me realize what I've been missing. Sold my plastic boat and I'm going back to the wood future...