12 to 00 AWG Handheld Crimper

[bluedog225]

I'd appreciate a recomendation regarding a brand for a handheld crimper. They aren't cheap so I'd like to get a decent quality tool with the ability to handle a range of wire.

I don't need professional quality as I'll probably not do more than 100 crimps over the next 2 years.

I'll be doing mostly closed end ring connectors and splices on 12 gauge to 6 gauge wire with occassional larger wire near the battery. Dielectric grease, crimp, and heat shrink.

Thanks

Tom

[Bob Adams]

I have found Thomas and Betts (T&B) to be the best crimpng tools bar none.

[nedL]

In the 10 - 22 AWG range, they begin at about $10 for the least expensive, then move up to about $50 for a mid quality tool and up to $100 - 150 for a hight quality tool. Unfortunately, a tool that will handle down around 2 AWG is going to run easily $300-500. The smaller gauge stuff can be pretty generic for crimp tooling, and the biggfer stuff is going to be more specific (tool matches the terminal). Check out "Contact East" for a distrubutor that carries a good selection.

[kingplanker]

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/00006017.jpg
The Ancor ratchet crimper is my favorite for primary wiring jobs. It crimps 22 - 10 AWG. Easy to use and does a nice job.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2735&familyName=Ancor+Double+Crimp+Ratchet+Tool
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/00006052.jpg
This is the style of crimper I use for battery lugs. I get good results setting the crimp using my bench vise. I don't do enuff lug work to justify the pro-style large manual crimping tool.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2734&familyName=Heavy+Duty+Lug+Crimper
Both tools work for me. The Ancor tools are not cheap but quality tools are usually worth the extra $$. My 2 cents.

[Ray Frechette Jr]

Th ebigger stuff is likely to be infrequent.

Might be better to just borrow one form a yard or hire the big stuff out as needed.

[carlg]

I'll second the Thomas & Betts recommendation.

[Dan McCosh]

Been using the Ancor ratchet for years for smaller guages. I solder larger lugs. The main problem with the ratcheting tool is once you start, you can't stop without a full squeeze. No oops allowed.

[AstoriaDave]

I use that first Ancor crimper for the smaller stuff; even if you only wire up one powered vessel, it is a worthwhile investment. I used the local marine rigger's heavy duty rig for the big stuff. The Ancor vise-actuated one would be a good investment and I'll buy one of those the next time I need to wire an engine/battery system(from the link referenced above) :

Ancor heavy duty lug crimper is made from steel with a hardened pivot pin. Crimper makes UL approved crimps.

Calibrated adjustment screw
Compound lever action prevents operator fatigue
Capacity: Crimps 8 - 4/0 AWG /8-103 mm lugs and terminals
Spring loaded pivot bar, designed for use with a hammer or vise.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I have the Ancor, and find it's okay... West Marine have a WM branded crimper which is very close in construction, and comes with all the crimper jaws, including coax for a more moderate price.. I would have bought it had I seen it at the time. I think the west and the ancor ratcheting crimper are the same, and the WM is 79 bucks US for the complete kit.

[bluedog225]

Thanks all.

[the_gr8t_waldo]

for the number of anticipated crimps, i'd go with a hand tool http://www.brandtoolsonline.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=15&products_id=156&osCsid=pappbi1a94jd5ggvdvu8634h90 for anything larger than #10 , i'd make the crimp useing a "v" block of steel on top of an heavy vice, and for setting the crimp a cold chisel(modifyed on the bench grinder). myself i prefer uninsulated connectors/splices. i can make a farbetter crimp in unsulated parts, verses the insulated types. the dual action and wratcheting type tools will give nobetter results, but the cost is just, too much for most people, except for shops who'll be doing a LOT of these connections. just mho here, but i have worked in electrical construction/marine pretty steadly for the last 30+years

[paladin]

My professional ratchet crimper cost about $600 20 years ago. It's a hand held device with geared jaws and you must complete the crimp before it releases.
Soldering.....do not solder the area between the end of the terminal and the wire. It will weaken and harden the wire at that point. Using a large soldering IRON, not a soldering gun, use 60-40 multi-core solder, heat the wire where it just comes through the terminal onto the spade or ring, hold the iron there for at least 5-10 seconds, and then touch the solder to the wire, not the iron or terminal, and use just enough solder to paint the end of the wire and the edges of the terminal. DO NOT use so much solder that it wicks back through the terminal and onto the wire. When finished, apply a sealer to the wire/terminal joint and apply at least two pieces of heat shrink tubing over it. The multi core electronic solder and the heat shrink is available (cheapest) from Digi-Key Corp, maybe at three times the cost from radio shack.

[pipefitter]

I like the Klein for 10-22 and the little nipper in the tips is handy and it was under $50.00. I can use it for just about everything, including submersible connections, insulated and non insulated connectors and I don't have to drag diagonal cutters or lineman's pliers along. We also have the larger Klein crimper that crimps from 6-4/0 which looks like a set of bolt cutters and it too works sweet. I got the larger included in a full set of electricians tools and drill bits from a widow who was selling off the business. I only paid $100.00 for everything.