UV cured Varnish.....

[elsewhere]

Has anyone used the UV Cured varnish from http://www.admiraltymarinecoatings.com
If so, is it good and what is it's outdoor constant exposure durability?

[pcford]

I am very dubious.

For a boat's finish to last it needs to be kept out of the sun...that is the reason for covered moorage.

[Bob Cleek]

This is, I presume, the same technology dentists now use to cure plastic materials used in dental repairs. It replaced the old "porcelain fillings." Sounds gimmicky, though. The dentists want an instantaneous cure because the stuff is on a tooth in a mouth. Outdoors on a boat, the sun is going to eventually do the job for you without the need for a "black light" thingy. I don't see how the cure speed is going to make much difference in the toughness of the finish, though. I notice on that website that they were picturing nothing but INTERIOR brightwork (save for a canoe). From a professional production standpoint, I can see the advantages of a fast cure for interior (i.e. furniture) finishes. I'd like to know more about its UV resistance in an exterior application.

[David G]

Dubious doesn't begin to describe it. I'm more like cynical... jaded... beyond fed up.

There's always some New Miracle Goo out there. I'm perfectly willing to try new things, but when it comes to finishes, the marketing usually (always?) outruns the reality. I've been burned before, so no longer am interested in something that does not have a substantial, happy track record.

Let someone else ride the learning curve, and suffer the failures. Stick with the proven stuff.

Grump, Grump, Grumble,

[pcford]

If you think about it, the demands on a clear marine wood finish are extreme. The substrate is always moving...while that is happening, the finish is drying out and inevitably becoming more brittle.

There ain't any miracle products for this; there is no free lunch. Sorry.

[elsewhere]

Never thought there would be a miracle fix for brightwork, but the manufacturer claims the outdoor constant exposure durability is 5-10 years! & it is UV cured, so it should be more UV resistant.... One would think!

[MiddleAgesMan]

The two part varnishes such as Interlux Perfection will easily last 5-10 years on stable materials like plywood but I don't think there is any magic solution for coating solid woods in constant exposure.

[JimConlin]

There are UV cured polyester resins. Three minutes of sunlight will cure them. They're popular for surfboard repairs.

I'll keep an open mind re a UV cured coating.

[Lew Barrett]

If it cures fast on exposure yo UV, how do you get flow? If you have to varnish in artificial light and then expose it to UV for the cure, how do you see to do the job? Otherwise, I'll be standing by awaiting further info.

Before you start thinking about cosmetics, have you got your structural questions hammered down? Surely you must have a few. If not, run a hose with some pressure across the decks and cabin tops to see how tight she'll be in the rain. Hit the windows, and direct the stream under fittings and penetrations, too. Attend to the structure and any tightness issues first, elsewhere! And if she floats and runs, get her out and use her before working on her. It provides part of the template.

[elsewhere]

If it cures fast on exposure yo UV, how do you get flow? If you have to varnish in artificial light and then expose it to UV for the cure, how do you see to do the job? Otherwise, I'll be standing by awaiting further info.

Before you start thinking about cosmetics, have you got your structural questions hammered down? Surely you must have a few. If not, run a hose with some pressure across the decks and cabin tops to see how tight she'll be in the rain. Hit the windows, and direct the stream under fittings and penetrations, too. Attend to the structure and any tightness issues first, elsewhere! And if she floats and runs, get her out and use her before working on her. It provides part of the template.
Uv cured products will not fully cure with sunlight alone. They use a different UV wavelength(generally) than the sun for most UV products to set, in my experience. Some UV products could last for days and still not be fully cured. Thus the reason for using a UV curing lamp. So it doesn't matter if you finish in artificial light or natural light(indirect sunlight).

Weatherizing is my first task at hand then brightwork. Structural issues to follow. Then engines & electronics. I will be keeping this boat outside for one year to work on it & prepare for putting in service and my main concern is preserving the wood first. I mean... If I don't protect it, what good will it do me to have the boat to start with?

[JimConlin]

Uv cured products will not fully cure with sunlight alone. They use a different UV wavelength(generally) than the sun for most UV products to set, in my experience. Some UV products could last for days and still not be fully cured. Thus the reason for using a UV curing lamp. So it doesn't matter if you finish in artificial light or natural light(indirect sunlight).
...
These people are gonna be upset.
http://www.solarez.com/index.php

[Lew Barrett]

I can't comment on the efiicacy of this type of poduct, but I would suggest that you don't put too much energy into your finishes at this time. A coat or two of cover is all that you should consider as any structural repairs in a given area will likely compromise the finishes anyway. I realize you know this, but it's called "finish" because it comes last.

[Lew Barrett]

I can't comment on the efiicacy of this type of product, but I would suggest that you don't put too much energy into your finishes at this time. A coat or two of cover is all that you should consider as any structural repairs in a given area will likely compromise the finishes anyway. I realize you know this, but it's called "finish" because it comes last.

[elsewhere]

These people are gonna be upset.
http://www.solarez.com/index.php

Notice.... I said "generally" UV product do not fully cure in sunlight alone. There could very well be products that "fully cure" with only sunlight. But as I said, "in my experience" they don't. That doesn't mean someone couldn't make a product to be much more sensitive to sunlight than the products i have delt with.

Is this product used on boats? Does anyone have experience with this one? When people bring up UV varnish.... Seems there's always a surfboard around???

I'm still new @ this, so help me out, guys! I'm looking for long lasting for my $$$. Nothing wrong with that.

Mrs. Elsewhere

[elsewhere]

I can't comment on the efiicacy of this type of product, but I would suggest that you don't put too much energy into your finishes at this time. A coat or two of cover is all that you should consider as any structural repairs in a given area will likely compromise the finishes anyway. I realize you know this, but it's called "finish" because it comes last.

A coat or two.... That's a great suggestion! Thank you! I just want to make sure that my new(old) boat is weather tight! ;) i will definately make sure i find any/all problem areas, if there are more. So far, it' only one trim piece... But who knows what dirty little treasures lie beyond all that deck canvas! We SHALL see! Because that will be the first thing I tackle. Getting all that ugly canvas off my beautiful(nasty) wood. And givin' it a good gentle bath to see what surprises i find.

[elsewhere]

I can't comment on the efiicacy of this type of product, but I would suggest that you don't put too much energy into your finishes at this time. A coat or two of cover is all that you should consider as any structural repairs in a given area will likely compromise the finishes anyway. I realize you know this, but it's called "finish" because it comes last.

A coat or two.... That's a great suggestion! Thank you! I just want to make sure that my new(old) boat is weather tight! ;) i will definately make sure i find any/all problem areas, if there are more. So far, it' only one trim piece... But who knows what dirty little treasures lie beyond all that deck canvas! We SHALL see! Because that will be the first thing I tackle. Getting all that ugly canvas off my beautiful(nasty) wood. And givin' it a good gentle bath to see what surprises i find.

[GrahamD]

The exterior varnish coating which is commented on above is a UV cured Aliphatic Urethane made by Admiralty Coatings Inc. They, (aliphatic Urethanes) have the highest ratings of all coatings in terms of limited brittleness due to long term exposure to the sun... epoxies being the worst and polyesters somewhere in the middle.
The coating is applied directly to the clean sanded surface around 3 - 6 mils thick... it will flow out well in moderate temperatures. When it appears perfect to the user a hi-powered UV light (UV a, b & c) is scanned over the surface to fully cure the coating. The coating fully cures in 2 - 3 seconds.
The next coat can be applied immediately on top, with no sanding of the previous cured layer... this is then cured the same way and additional coats can be applied in the same manner if desired.
These coatings are 100% solids with no solvents or VOCs, therefore the thickness you lay down wet is the same thickness when cured.
We do offer a UV Shield coating which blocks the sun's UV energy from impacting the coating/wood interface... this prolongs the life of that interface. This can be applied on the wood directly or on top of any coating layer.
Our initial (accelerated aging) tests show a 5-10 year life expectancy depending upon the latitude of the item coated... only a slight darkening of the wood color was noted after this UV, Humidity, Temperature test was completed.
I have personally cycled coated teak from the freezer (8ºF) to the oven (165ºF) hundreds of times with no delamination, peeling or loss of gloss finish.

Graham Duncan
Admiralty Coatings Inc.
graham@admiraltymarinecoatings.com

[Lew Barrett]

Thank you for posting, Graham. I could be one of those doubters myself...you never know! But I am grateful that you posted here.

You say the coating has a predicted life of 5-10 years, which is impressive. What is the recommended way to refresh a compromised finish, or one that has started to lose it's gloss and protective value? Do you strip back or re-coat?

[GrahamD]

Hi Lew:

If re-coating is desired after long term exposure to ??? (cement dust in my case), a light sand with ~ 220 grit and wipe down with Acetone or IPA (do not use a Tacky Cloth). The surface is ready for a layer(s) of coating.

If you are coating over wood joints that are "working" failure may occur with time even though the coating is elastic and has excellent adhesion to Oak, Teak and Cherry.

The elasticity of the Gloss Varnish coating does not affect the 4H pencil hardness of the surface. A very thin Final Top Coat can be applied on top of the Gloss Varnish to provide a 6H+ hardness if desired.

Regards Graham