Bedding compound

[Huey]

Hi Folks,
I have completed the repairs to my deck and now it is time to re attach the deck hardware. Is there a product that can be bought at a hardware or auto parts store that can be used for a bedding compound? I was thinking of maybe 3M Auto beading and glazing compound but I don’t know how it would hold up in a marine environment.

[botebum]

My local Advance Auto Parts sells 3M 5200 amongst other marine applicable items. It could be because we're right on the coast. Even if they don't carry what you want they can probably order it for you.

[JimConlin]

Don't use 5200 if you EVER might want to remove the hardware. Use traditional bedding compound such as Doplhinite.

[rbgarr]

I agree, Jim. Dolphinite is a good, thick, oily bedding compound, and there are others like it for marine and non-marine uses. Eventually it dries out, but things bedded should be rebedded from time to time anyway. I worry about using 5200 in boats. It's too tenacious if you ever want to take anything apart.

[ 04-06-2005, 06:15 PM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

[bepone]

I use polysulfide for bedding hardware that is going to stay in place for years - stanchions, winches, cleats, windlass.

Polyurethane (DuPont 5200)is an adhesive, not a bedding compound.

If it's an item that I'll want to remove, then I use plumber's putty - mushroom vents, tank fills.

My experience with the putty is that it doesn't dry out completely, and I've never had a deck leak when I've used it.

bepone

[Dave Hadfield]

Go to the trouble of getting this. It really works.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/woeimages/00001170.jpg

It does not skin over and dry before you get the part installed, it squeezes out beautifully, and it is easy to clean up. You'll get a good, waterproof seal, yet have something you can take off later.

I used it last year for the same purpose. Tighten up the fittings, then go back a couple of hours later and do it again when the stuff has oozed its final amount.

[gaffman]

Well, here's my two cents worth. I like Dolphinite; but, if I'm in the mood for a mess, I also like LifeCaulk in the tube because it won't dry out and if applied correctly, will give you a gasket-type seal. This is done by setting the fitting in but don't tighten the screws much at all. Leave it for a day or so, and then go ahead and tighten it down. This makes a nice gasket type effect.

[sdowney717]

Dolphinite has a very short term lifespan.
I dont know how short but on my 35 yr old boat all the dolphinite was hardened and dried. What is it some clay powder dispersed in an oil base? The oil will oxidize in just a few years.
I would give it maybe 5 yrs, so dont use it anywhere you cant get to or dont want to see again in your lifetime. Use 5200 for anything you put together that you never want to know about or see again.
The mahogany colored 5200 was still rubbery and well stuck to the wood, except of course where the wood rotted away.
I have had no trouble destructing anything held together with 5200, although you may have to glue broken pieces together again or craft some new pieces. There is a certain satisfaction in tearing into a structure knowing you can rebuild it again without to much effort.

[ssor]

Whenever I have occassion to bed anything I make a point for countersinking the fastener holes about a quarter of their diameter. Then when I tighten the fasteners a small ring of bedding compound is squeezed into the countersink and forms a modified "O" ring. Otherwise if the mating surfaces are flat almost all of the compound is extruded and I am left with only a thin film.